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Replacing Rear Trailing Arm and Lower Control arms. Is it Str8tForward

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    #16
    Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
    Definitely add tons of grease when you reassemble the eccentric toe adjusters, those have a reputation of seizing/rusting to the inner bushing sleeve. Only other thing I can add is to "set" all the OEM style/bonded rubber bushings at ride height. So you end up tightening all the bushing through bolts when at ride height. I like to use a scissor jack under the knuckle and lift the suspension to where the body just barely comes up off the jackstand, that is ride height for that corner. If there's any poly bushings you don't have to worry about those, the inner sleeves aren't bonded so the setting process isn't necessary. The idea is to always have the rubber not twisted at ride height. Hope that helps.
    Eccentric Toe adjusters. I gotta look that up. I thought there were some adjustments down there.Do i need additional hardware like bolts and such? I thought i would just mark them when disassembling and get an alignment afterwards. Lifting that thing up i have done like that before on front suspension but i must admit on one side i wasn't quite there. Seeing that car come up and move a little is scary as shit to me. Lol. Also how is that bolt adjusting the rear toe and how much per turn would it equal. What i mean is the manual shows turning the bolt after loosening teh flange nut but it doesn't say which way does what or how much.
    Last edited by zedjr10; 04-10-2019, 02:39 AM.

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      #17
      Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post
      Eccentric Toe adjusters. I gotta look that up. I thought there were some adjustments down there.Do i need additional hardware like bolts and such? I thought i would just mark them when disassembling and get an alignment afterwards. Lifting that thing up i have done like that before on front suspension but i must admit on one side i wasn't quite there. Seeing that car come up and move a little is scary as shit to me. Lol. Also how is that bolt adjusting the rear toe and how much per turn would it equal. What i mean is the manual shows turning the bolt after loosening teh flange nut but it doesn't say which way does what or how much.
      Regarding the rear toe adjusters, if you can get them out/all apart then you're good to go, no add'l hardware needed. Obviously if they're seized and you gotta cut the through bolts you'll need new ones. Yup I would mark them before you even touch them and put them back the same way. A final alignment after all this work is performed would be best. The bolt is just a cycle, it doesn't matter which direction you turn it, the final clocked location sets the toe setting. You'll see what I mean when you mess with it.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
        Regarding the rear toe adjusters, if you can get them out/all apart then you're good to go, no add'l hardware needed. Obviously if they're seized and you gotta cut the through bolts you'll need new ones. Yup I would mark them before you even touch them and put them back the same way. A final alignment after all this work is performed would be best. The bolt is just a cycle, it doesn't matter which direction you turn it, the final clocked location sets the toe setting. You'll see what I mean when you mess with it.
        Yeah i see now. They sort of just rotate. Does almost everyone have theirs seized? I guess i am going to find out soon enough. Probably a reason to buy a new tool like an angle grinder or dremel. I have been in luck with most rusted stuff and things broke free after a few days of pbj.

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          #19
          I forgot to ask. Which way adjusts which way on rear toe. Does clockwise make positive or negative. My left wheel is already out of toe at .20. My right is 0.00. would help to know when i get it aligned to tell those guys. I doubt they would know. Sais in my shop manual that it is important to have both the exact same in between 0.00 and 0.15''. that is in sae measurements i believe.

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            #20
            Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post
            I forgot to ask. Which way adjusts which way on rear toe. Does clockwise make positive or negative. My left wheel is already out of toe at .20. My right is 0.00. would help to know when i get it aligned to tell those guys. I doubt they would know. Sais in my shop manual that it is important to have both the exact same in between 0.00 and 0.15''. that is in sae measurements i believe.
            It depends on which way the offset washer is positioned to begin with. If the offset washer is centered above the bolt head, on the left side turning it CCW will increase toe; on the right side turning CW would increase toe. This would work opposite if the offset washer starts off below the bolt head. I don't think the OEM manual specifies what the starting position should be (I'll check when I get home). Either way, they can get where they need to go by turning in either direction; it is primarily the side to side position that matters, not up/down.
            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
            08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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              #21
              Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
              It depends on which way the offset washer is positioned to begin with. If the offset washer is centered above the bolt head, on the left side turning it CCW will increase toe; on the right side turning CW would increase toe. This would work opposite if the offset washer starts off below the bolt head. I don't think the OEM manual specifies what the starting position should be (I'll check when I get home). Either way, they can get where they need to go by turning in either direction; it is primarily the side to side position that matters, not up/down.
              So it depends if on left or right side of car. AS it never rotates fully. Just pushes something out or in. I gotcha. THanks

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                #22
                Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post
                So it depends if on left or right side of car. AS it never rotates fully. Just pushes something out or in. I gotcha. THanks
                The bolt can be rotated fully; that's what I mean that regardless of which direction they turn it, they will eventually get it to where they need it. As it does, it moves the pivot point of the forward lower control arm left and right (as well as up and down, but side to side is what matters) to change the angle of the bottom of the knuckle relative to the trailing arm.
                90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Rilas View Post
                  Technically it isn't that hard of a job. The problem is that usually a few of the bolts have rusted themselves into the sleeves of the bushing. Pretty much making the removal of the bolt impossible. Then you have to resort to cutting it out. Usually with a hacksaw, and not in the best of conditions. If the whole rear sub frame comes out then you can just flip it upside down and work at your own leisure.
                  YUP!! Especially here on the East Coast. Gotta love when you think it is an easy
                  job then you realize half the bolts are rusted lol.
                  Keep Pushing..

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                    #24
                    I just finished replacing the 4 rear lower control arms. None were frozen. Yoohoo. One was half rusted. I sprayed this at least 6 times over 3 months. I put some grease on bolt sleeves and inner bushings when replacing. Maybe this helps in future.

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                      #25
                      Lol damn this has me reminiscing doing my eccentric bolts..NIGHTMARE!
                      Keep Pushing..

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by G. Wiffington View Post
                        Lol damn this has me reminiscing doing my eccentric bolts..NIGHTMARE!
                        I guess i am lucky as nothing on my car has been rusted on so much i had to cut it off. I did take my time and spray things like the eccentric bolts months before i decided to do the work. One of the eccentric bolts was almost rusted shut but came out after a few turns back and forth. I only have tranny left to install and new exhaust system. What am i going to do when i have nothing left to do on my car.

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                          #27
                          Both of my eccentric bolts were seized and had to sawzall both sides off the car in order to replace them when upgrading to FFC four LCA kit. PITA!

                          However it was well worth it. Huge improvement for handling and stiffness/rigidity in the back now. Highly reccommend an improvement over stamped steel stock arms any day.

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                            #28
                            all done with everything in the rear. As i always tell me wife after sex. That rear end is tight. Very noticeable difference on highway. I was about to leave old lower control arms in cause bushings looked good but glad i didn't.

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