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Old 10-08-2017, 04:00 PM   #41
wtfisafleek
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Location: Mesquite, TX
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Check my recent posts. I tried to disassemble mine last night to clean it, but it's like a house of cards. If you take it apart incorrectly, which is easy to do, it's not going to be worth your time to reassemble. New ones are like $50 from RockAuto, junkyard maybe half that.

It's probably just a better bet to get a new one to eliminate possibility of a quick failure. I can't even fool with mine because upon my first couple of tries to get it back together, one of the little springs took liftoff into the stratosphere never to be seen again. Super easy to get the assembly apart, impossible to get back together. I'm sure there's a way, but very difficult for me to figure out on the fly.
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:22 PM   #42
Ghostwhite
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Yeah I'm just going to replace it.
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:31 AM   #43
wtfisafleek
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Just thought I'd throw in an update. Here's some pics of the DNA header I picked up off of Ebay. The fit was very bad in two places, so much that it took a lot of modding to even get to fit properly.




I covered it with some high temp exhaust wrap in hopes that it would give the A/C line enough heat protection, but in the end I decided it wasn't worth the risk of damaging the A/C system and ditched it in favor of the A4 manifold. You can see the number 1 pipe just doesn't cant over to the passenger side of the engine bay enough to give enough clearance to the A/C lines near it. Side by side with an A4(?) manifold really makes it obvious.

Little tip for wrapping, should you choose to try it: it's not difficult and you don't have to stretch it all that hard, you just have to be mindful to keep the tension on the wrap. So securing the piece in a vice or something to keep it anchored is really helpful.





I ended up grinding off the casting marks and some of the seams to smooth out the extremely rough surface. Plus it makes the silver paint pop a little bit more, IMO. I didn't totally smooth them out, just mostly knocked them down. It made it a little more comfortable to move around too.



How it looks as of last night:


Since I received my OE replacement type exhaust system (with cat) earlier today, I set about putting that on too. Everything went well until I got back to the muffler. It was way off. I'm not sure what vehicle it was made for, but the curve at the inlet pipe, the hangers' location, and the length of the tips was way off. This was a package I found on Amazon that was technically or an EX, but hey I have the dual port exit manifold, so I figured it would work.



So rather than fart around and wait another 2 weeks on these guys I ordered a Walker SoundFX muffler that should do the trick. I also conveniently forgot to order the tips, so I guess I'll have to grab some of those too.

Last edited by wtfisafleek; 10-15-2017 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 10-15-2017, 06:01 PM   #44
Ghostwhite
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Header looks real good, sucks you had a time getting it to fit good.
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:53 PM   #45
wtfisafleek
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That's the thing; even after I got it installed, it didn't fit well, which is why I ditched it. I added a pic of the A4 header mounted just in case it wasn't clear where I'm currently at.

About the fitment, I also didn't mention that because of the #1 shape issue, it made it impossible to even put on without pulling 3 or 4 of the exhaust studs out. What a pain. Never again DNA, never again.
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Old 10-21-2017, 12:13 AM   #46
wtfisafleek
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So I finally got the replacement muffler yesterday. I don't want it to instantly turn into a big rusty sieve, so I wiped it down real well and shot it with some of the high heat VHT I used on the exhaust manifold.

Unfortunately I haven't got to start it and hear it run since my O2 sensor is about 2 feet too short and I don't want to unwrap the harness to extend it. It's grimy as fuck and I know if I start I'm not going to be finished until 8 hours later and that side of the engine bay is mint. So I just ordered an extension.

I still need to rebuild the PS pump as it was obviously leaking before, and judging by the grime on it, it had been for a while. I've got the seals, now I've just need to get to it.

Not to mention the rear driver's side brake bleeder. The damn thing is seized so I've got to replace at least one wheel cylinder, and lines too while I'm in there. There should be a h.s. class where to pass the final test they have to properly torque a bleeder and replace the dust cap when the're done, /rant. I've already got these parts on hand as well
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Old 10-21-2017, 05:38 PM   #47
wtfisafleek
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PS pump rebuilt. The inside looked real good. It had some minor scoring on the bottom where the gears had rubbed, but nothing to worry about. I wonder how long it will stay this clean.

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Old 11-06-2017, 08:31 PM   #48
wtfisafleek
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No pressure in cylinder 3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Losiracer2 View Post
That hiss is probably a leak in your brake booster. I had that on my 90 EX sedan when i would shut the car off. Does your brake pedal get instantly hard when you shut the car off on the first pump?
As it turns out, that was cylinder #3 leaking out the rest of the pressure that was in it. I was really chasing my tail trying to get this thing to idle correctly like the little sewing machine that it is. Try as I might, the idle kept bouncing, and overall it was a bit rough, shaking the motor pretty good along the way(3/4 engine mounts are new).

Not sure why I didn't do this immediately after I got the new timing belt on, but I did a compression test this afternoon to try and verify the sealing abilities of each cylinder. The compression numbers were 185psi on cyl. 1, 155psi on cyl.2, 0psi on cyl.3, and 185psi on cyl. 4.

I'm thrilled with nos. 1 and 4, but 2 and 3 obviously need attention. At this point I'm confident that one or more valves in #3 are toast. Cylinder number two's numbers read 16% lower than 1 and 4, however I'll have to wait until I can look at the head to determine weather it's the valves or the piston rings.

Last edited by wtfisafleek; 11-06-2017 at 10:58 PM.
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