throwout bearing squealing

[Cb7Newbie23]

91 lx sedan 5 SPD

Replaced clutch throw out bearing whole kit bought from advance

My car did this for about a week before changing the clutch
Until the point where my car would shut of when engaging the clutch......

From a cold start up it will scream (squeal) for about 1 min
Then stops

Engage 1st gear squeals threw 2-4k rpms or when coming to a stop I can hear it real quiet until I engage the clutch and start driving again. Only does it mostly until I drive for 5-10 mins

Need help only car I have and work and drive about 50 miles back in forth to work 95% highway and literally I get of the highway and pull in to my job.

Any suggestions???

[johnl]

Bizarre. A new bearing should fix that, I'd have thought....

I'm not entirely clear on your symptoms, but if you have a squeal when you disengage the clutch (i.e. push the pedal down), that still exists after changing the thrust bearing, then suspicion moves elsewhere.

I'm thinking one of the thrust washers inside the engine, that control crankshaft end float. Can you move the crankshaft axially, i.e. prise it so it moves in and out at the front pulley???

Some very small amount of end float should exist, but if it's any more than just a tiny amount then I'd be looking inside the engine. Just guessing...

[wildBill83]

Sounds like a squealing belt to me.

[deevergote]

Cheap bearings can fail. I had that happen to me. The bearing first started sounding like chirping birds... then it just seized. Pressing the clutch in would stop the engine (just like if you were at a stop, and released the clutch pedal while in gear and holding the brake.)

If you think the bearing is failing, replace it with a brand new OEM unit immediately. Ignoring it will only strand you (and a tow is not cheap), and the end result will be a fried clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel.
The new bearing should be no more than $60, and if you replaced your own clutch, you already know how to replace the bearing. It's a pain... but better to do it now before it becomes an even greater expense!

[johnl]

I can't see why a belt issue would cause the engine to stall when the clutch pedal were depressed, assuming this to be a consistent symptom and not just a once of coincidence.

I'd be surprised at the sheer bad luck of a replacement bearing being faulty and failing either immediately or shortly after installation (not sure from the description of the problem), unless there were something causing it to fail prematurely.

An odd thing that strikes me about the description;

"From a cold start up it will scream (squeal) for about 1 min
Then stops

Engage 1st gear squeals threw 2-4k rpms or when coming to a stop I can hear it real quiet until I engage the clutch and start driving again. Only does it mostly until I drive for 5-10 mins"

Notwithstanding the less than clearly described symptoms, if the bearing were being fully retracted from contact with the clutch, then it shouldn't be spinning at all after the pedal has been released, so there should be no bearing related "scream (squeal)" after the clutch pedal has been released.

Perhaps the bearing isn't being retracted from contact with the clutch? Maybe the hydraulic pressure isn't dropping to zero immediately as the pedal becomes fully 'up', but is remaining too high, at least for some period of time? This might explain why the noise exists for some period (or however many minutes...) after the clutch pedal has been depressed and released, then disappears?

If so then this would imply bearing damage as a result of semi constant engagement, possibly caused by inadequate or non existent free play at the pedal?

[wildBill83]

I can't see why a belt issue would cause the engine to stall when the clutch pedal were depressed, assuming this to be a consistent symptom and not just a once of coincidence.

I'd be surprised at the sheer bad luck of a replacement bearing being faulty and failing either immediately or shortly after installation (not sure from the description of the problem), unless there were something causing it to fail prematurely.

An odd thing that strikes me about the description;

"From a cold start up it will scream (squeal) for about 1 min
Then stops

Engage 1st gear squeals threw 2-4k rpms or when coming to a stop I can hear it real quiet until I engage the clutch and start driving again. Only does it mostly until I drive for 5-10 mins"

Notwithstanding the less than clearly described symptoms, if the bearing were being fully retracted from contact with the clutch, then it shouldn't be spinning at all after the pedal has been released, so there should be no bearing related "scream (squeal)" after the clutch pedal has been released.

Perhaps the bearing isn't being retracted from contact with the clutch? Maybe the hydraulic pressure isn't dropping to zero immediately as the pedal becomes fully 'up', but is remaining too high, at least for some period of time? This might explain why the noise exists for some period (or however many minutes...) after the clutch pedal has been depressed and released, then disappears?

If so then this would imply bearing damage as a result of semi constant engagement, possibly caused by inadequate or non existent free play at the pedal?

The op changed the clutch and his car is no longer stalling yet it did not fix the squeal. I'm curious if it is his belts or alternator brushes. His description matches something my hondas did when they required new belts or a new alt.

I have a non oem bearing in my LX, well atleast the manufacturer is not a Honda oem but they are a Ford oem. I don't believe that quality and oem part are mutually exclusive all the time. Don't stone me. I used real moly lube with my new bearing when I installed it.

The noise he is talking about sounds like a belt or alternator to me. As both of my cars have made this noise that matches his description. It would come and go exactly as described.

[deevergote]

OEM and quality certainly aren't mutually exclusive (and in some cases, OEM may even be inferior). However, having purchased clutch kits from Advance Auto, I can say from personal experience that the bearings they use are budget junk.
I've had a cheap budget bearing fail on me once already (and it's the reason my car has been sidelined for the past 7+ years.)

[H311RA151N]

I used a Koyo even after reading on here multiple times that Nachi is OEM. Because, the Nachi bearings that comes with the Exedy kits is a completely different style than the Koyo all together. And Honda only lists Fujikoshi and Koyo as OEM. I took a Koyo out of the car so I put a Koyo back in the car. According to the records the clutch lasted 160,000 miles with that Koyo clutch release bearing.



Here you can see the Koyo I pulled out. The Nachi. And a clutch release bearing that came with an eBay clutch kit we have all heard of. F1 Racing.





Here you can see the entire OEM spec clutch kit I bought from Exedy that included the Nachi clutch release bearing. The flywheel to the far left did not come from Exedy.

I want to state that the clutch kit shipped direct from Exedy.




I also want to note that both the Nachi and the F1 Racing clutch release bearings are off center. Another reason why I didn't use the Nachi. Neither lined up properly with force. I'm not saying Nachi is of poor quality, I'm saying I didn't like that the Nachi bearing has more in common with the cheapo F1 Racing than the Koyo.

F1 Racing clutch release bearing.




Nachi clutch release bearing.




The Koyo I installed vs the bearing from the F1 Racing kit.



Not that I think it matters greatly as I do see a reason for it but the inside of the Nachi is a hard plastic. This is the part the clutch release bearing rides on pictured below. Being plastic I will assume it was made to be easier on the sleeve. However, I do not see it as necessary because the sleeve pictured is from my 5 speed conversion DIY and that transmission had at the time 374,000 miles on it and the sleeve was not poorly worn and showed no signs of being wore in the future. I'm just stating this as another difference in Nachi vs Koyo, not as it being a flaw.




With all this being said it seems there is some confusion as to what exactly an OEM clutch release bearing is for these cars as Nachi is not listed as OEM.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174877

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...t=82570&page=2


-


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...CLUTCH+HOUSING

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-...h-housing-scat

If Nachi is fact OEM then there is a difference in the OEM Nachi and the OEM Koyo. And if Nachi is in fact OEM then maybe we need to look at OEM parts a little different as these are clearly two different bearings entirely. Both the Koyo and Nachi clutch release bearings may be of the same quality, but the design which is clearly different cannot be tossed aside simply because they are both OEM.

[deevergote]

I think people make the assumption that because Exedy is an OEM clutch supplier, that they will include an OEM bearing in their kit.

Also, OEM suppliers change over the years as well, I believe. Sometimes an original supplier stops producing a part, and Honda is required to source their parts from alternate sources. It may not be "original equipment", but it would still be considered a proper "Honda" part, as it is what is chosen by Honda as the new replacement.

After my bearing seized, I got a new clutch (cheap from a friend, because I was in a pinch... another XTD piece of junk.) I went to Honda and bought a bearing from the parts counter. I don't recall what brand it was, but compared to the bearing that came with the XTD kit, it was night and day. It was like comparing a Daewoo to a Bentley.

[H311RA151N]

I think people make the assumption that because Exedy is an OEM clutch supplier, that they will include an OEM bearing in their kit.

Also, OEM suppliers change over the years as well, I believe. Sometimes an original supplier stops producing a part, and Honda is required to source their parts from alternate sources. It may not be "original equipment", but it would still be considered a proper "Honda" part, as it is what is chosen by Honda as the new replacement.

After my bearing seized, I got a new clutch (cheap from a friend, because I was in a pinch... another XTD piece of junk.) I went to Honda and bought a bearing from the parts counter. I don't recall what brand it was, but compared to the bearing that came with the XTD kit, it was night and day. It was like comparing a Daewoo to a Bentley.

I think people may be under that assumption as well. At the same time people are saying an OEM bearing is what comes in the Exedy kit. Which would be in one way like saying Exedy isn't OEM but the bearing is. So I don't know exactly how people are coming to their conclusions.

I think you may be right as for Nachi at one time being the OEM supplier and I did think of that. I just cannot provide if that is a fact currently. With it being said so many times over the years that a Nachi is OEM I want to say it probably was at one time. But, again, I cannot provide any evidence of it.

That's also not to say Nachi hasn't changed their design too.

Those XTDs and all other eBay cheapy clutches are complete crap. Not worth taking out of the box. I wouldn't take 20 of them if someone wanted to give them to me.

[deevergote]

Nachi probably wasn't an oem supplier to honda. They may be for other companies, though. Still, I'd trust parts directly from the Honda parts counter over anything else!


Agreed about XTD and all those other cheap clutch companies. My Stage 3 clutch was all but gone by the time I took it out. In less than 2 years and 60,000 miles... hardly ever launched. There's a Stage 1 in there now, but that was a quick fix due to my friend having it on hand, and selling the whole thing (flywheel and all) to me for $100. I don't expect it to last very long!

[H311RA151N]

Nachi probably wasn't an oem supplier to honda. They may be for other companies, though. Still, I'd trust parts directly from the Honda parts counter over anything else!


Agreed about XTD and all those other cheap clutch companies. My Stage 3 clutch was all but gone by the time I took it out. In less than 2 years and 60,000 miles... hardly ever launched. There's a Stage 1 in there now, but that was a quick fix due to my friend having it on hand, and selling the whole thing (flywheel and all) to me for $100. I don't expect it to last very long!

Exactly. I myself, because I like saving money and I'm evidently well versed in brands, find which manufacturer made the part I require for Honda and get it from them for one reason and that's price. Sometimes tracking down the OEM supplier isn't possible and 99% of the time I go to Honda in that case.

When I see a Banhoff of anything else like that on here I have to ask how it's preforming. I'm amazed when I hear they have even a couple thousand miles on them.

Also, you have to watch for sneaky bastards on eBay. Let me show some examples. I would like to make this widely known because it's pretty sneaky.

Clutchmaster vs Clutchmasters. And they paint the stupid things yellow which used to be the color of some Clutchmasters pressure plates. It is the color of ACT clutches so it has the look of quality. But the name is my main point.

I wish I could give a CB7 example but I cannot at this time although they do make them. Maybe my reporting sellers for falsely descriptive titles and misleading products is paying off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1985-HO...6c441a&vxp=mtr



This is the other thing I don't like. Type in "91 Accord Exedy clutch kit" or (90, 92, 93 it doesn't matter) and things like this come up.

You have to pay attention because it says the kit includes an ACS disc which is not what the title leads you to believe. And people who do not know better will not know that the stage 2 Exedy for our cars is a 3 puck clutch available in thick and thin and neither look anything like the disc pictured. There is also a 4 puck stage 2 clutch made by Exedy for our cars.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exedy-Pressu...8f632b&vxp=mtr

It's misleading because the title states the kit as an Exedy. That's about as far as you can go as for pushing the limits on false advertising. One could argue that it's not technically wrong but we all know what they are trying to do.

And ACS is not the only ones doing this. XTR, and JKS Racing are two others.


I'm done jacking the thread by the way. But Cb7Newbie23 there are some things you can learn here if you believe it's your throwout bearing.

[wildBill83]

I agree that OEM is the safe bet. I just wanted to share my experience with nonoem bearings too.


Can anyone identify this brand? It was identical to the OEM supplied with my Valeo disk. It's working wonderfully and I used a different lube than was supplied too. I think the lube has a lot to do with failures as well.

[H311RA151N]

I agree that OEM is the safe bet. I just wanted to share my experience with nonoem bearings too.


Can anyone identify this brand? It was identical to the OEM supplied with my Valeo disk. It's working wonderfully and I used a different lube than was supplied too. I think the lube has a lot to do with failures as well.

I have had great experience with Sachs myself. Used them many many times and with great results. Not on Honda's but on domestics. I plan to use one on my B3000.