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Old 12-31-2018, 10:30 PM   #441
fleetw00d
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The drain hole in the bottom of the well is about 4 inches at a 45 degree angle to the right and aft of the spare hold down. Looks like there is something stuck in it - is that area actually rusted out?
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:06 PM   #442
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It’s not fully rusted out. But it was close. I hit it with a hammer a couple times and it didn’t budge. So I think I saved it but only time will tell.

Also Raf I’m happy to hear your experience is a positive one. I am hoping that it will last me that long so I can weld in a new to me spare wheel well and just stop the cancer completely.
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:39 PM   #443
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So got some more work done in the trunk area, dealing with the rust. I repeated the whole process with the passenger side of the trunk as I did in the spare wheel well area, sand, grind, wire wheel all the area with rust, then used the provided degreaser and metal prep solution. Then let it dry over night, and finally applied POR-15 Silver on the rust.

Heres how it started:




Grinded down, wire wheeled, degreased and prepped:





Finished product, I may apply another coat down the road but for now I am happy:





That brown stuff on the side is the frame sealant.

My next project is until I get all fab work back from Blake is to make the battery relocation I did almost 13 years ago more safe with a circuit breaker, firewall pass through, routing a ground like discussed in another thread here, battery box with vent tube, and possibly an external disconnect switch. Not sure where I am going to put the external disconnect switch, or if I will run one. Still on the fence about it.
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Old 01-04-2019, 07:32 PM   #444
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Looks great! It's amazing how thin that metal is. When I ripped out the spare wheel thing I ripped through the metal, creating a small hole in it. I too have to properly secure my battery but I cut a big piece of wood out to replace the OEM floor so I think the bolts need to go through that and then through the floor of the car. How u doing yours?
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Old 01-04-2019, 08:05 PM   #445
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Looks fantastic Nick!

Why does it seem all 3 of us haven't found a good solution for fully mounting the battery? I mean mine is at least in a battery box. But it currently is not bolted or screwed down. Just strapped to the rear strut tower bar and a bolt in the wagon trunk deck on the side of the box keeps it from sliding around. I need to find a more permanent solution.
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Old 01-04-2019, 08:42 PM   #446
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So if you look at the picture with the battery you can see the battery tie down bar(red bar). I bolted it through to where I can put nuts on underneath the car. They sit on each side of the muffler. I can snap a pic for you. But I bought a plastic battery box with a vent tube I plan to route outside. I plan to put the battery in the box, then drill two holes where the tie down bolts go through the box, so I can still anchor it to the frame of the car. Yet have the box to protect the battery. I then put silicone or make a rubber grommet to have the bolt go through and prevent water from getting into the trunk.
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Old 01-06-2019, 12:51 PM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Not sure where I am going to put the external disconnect switch, or if I will run one. Still on the fence about it.
When I was racing years ago I had to have a cut off switch for the relocated battery, I mounted it in the body filler panel that is under the tail light. I bought a second one, painted it to match and mounted my switch in it. Then when I wasn't racing I was able to put the old one back.

It's held in with two 10mm bolts and can be swapped around very quickly.
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Old 01-06-2019, 01:01 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjaccord View Post
When I was racing years ago I had to have a cut off switch for the relocated battery, I mounted it in the body filler panel that is under the tail light. I bought a second one, painted it to match and mounted my switch in it. Then when I wasn't racing I was able to put the old one back.

It's held in with two 10mm bolts and can be swapped around very quickly.
That's a good idea...
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Old 01-06-2019, 11:12 PM   #449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjaccord View Post
When I was racing years ago I had to have a cut off switch for the relocated battery, I mounted it in the body filler panel that is under the tail light. I bought a second one, painted it to match and mounted my switch in it. Then when I wasn't racing I was able to put the old one back.

It's held in with two 10mm bolts and can be swapped around very quickly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
That's a good idea...
That is a very good idea that I am going to do!

So today I got some parts in the mail:


Side note: it amazes me that a civilian company such as Amazon can make a federally owned company change its ways and deliver packages on Sunday.

Anyways back to what I got done today. I completed phase one of making my battery relocation safe. I cut a portion of the positive cable and added a terminal onto it to connect it to the 180 amp Circuit breaker I bought a couple months ago:


Crimped and soon to be heat shrinked:


Phase 1 complete: Installed Circuit Breaker and attached cables, I plan to purchase plastic washers to prevent inadvertent arching or the circuit breaker shorting out on the frame.





Tomorrow I should be getting the battery box in which if I have time will install it and complete phase 2.

Phase 3 consists of incorporating the external quick disconnect switch using BJaccord's idea of the removable filler panel.

Phase 4 is adding the engine to battery ground.

I originally mentioned that I was going to put in a firewall pass through however I may hold off on that until I pull the dash in the future to completely remove all SRS compenents and wires.
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Old 01-08-2019, 10:21 PM   #450
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Today I was able to complete phase 2: I installed the battery box and mounted it to the frame, so it shouldn't be going anywhere. I originally wanted the battery mount to be inside the battery box, but space was tight and I didn't want to cut a bunch of holes in the box. So this was the next best thing and I think it works perfectly fine.





Battery box cap on and secured:





I still need to create a vent tube connection to vent the battery outside the car, but all in all I'm happy.
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Old 01-09-2019, 05:59 AM   #451
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Probably no need to vent, that battery box isn't air tight, neither is the trunk.
So to get the battery out you have to go under the car? And what hardware did you use under the car, just lock washers and bolts?
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:36 AM   #452
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Probably no need to vent, that battery box isn't air tight, neither is the trunk.
So to get the battery out you have to go under the car? And what hardware did you use under the car, just lock washers and bolts?
Yes thatís the only inconvenience. But you only have to loosen one side which I can reach without having to jack the car up. But for underneath I used lock washers and nuts.

This is true about not being air tight. I will hold off on venting outside until someone says I canít race because of it.
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:44 AM   #453
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The trunk itself has an air vent so the pressure in the car releases when the doors are shut. I haven't vented mine either, and it was good enough for SCCA autocross.
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:41 PM   #454
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Isnít the vent for the trunk on the driver side like under the antenna motor mount?
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:44 AM   #455
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Yes it is.
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Old 01-10-2019, 12:08 PM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
The trunk itself has an air vent so the pressure in the car releases when the doors are shut. I haven't vented mine either, and it was good enough for SCCA autocross.
The vent is not only for this purpose, but also for the ventilation system. There are slots under the rear shelf panel that allow air to pass more easily from the passenger compartment to the trunk. Fresh air (such as it is) comes in the front (when not set to recirculate), flows from front to back in the passenger compartment, into the trunk, then out that vent.

Note: The gasket around that vent is a prime source for water leakage into the trunk on that side.

For the battery tray, couldn't you have mounted an OEM tray (or something similar) to the trunk floor, then mounted the battery in that?
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:11 PM   #457
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For the battery tray, couldn't you have mounted an OEM tray (or something similar) to the trunk floor, then mounted the battery in that?
Yes I initially thought of just simply using the battery tray, however that wouldn't provide any protection for the battery if something were to go flying. I know plastic isn't much better, but its better then nothing.

Blake got all the piping needed to start finishing up the downpipe and dump tube. He sent me some awesome update pictures of his crazy craftsmanship skills.

Portion of the downpipe in its raw form:


Beautiful color on his pie cuts:




No sugar or barbs in here, his purge caps are awesome for all you tig welders out there:


Mounted to the turbo, everything is coming together nicely:
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:27 PM   #458
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Jesus!!! This is becoming too beautiful. You're going to want to put it on the wall and not your car :P
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:37 PM   #459
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Jesus!!! This is becoming too beautiful. You're going to want to put it on the wall and not your car :P
Thatís funny. Will said the same thing. Lmao. I just might.
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:36 AM   #460
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So Blake put in some overtime and got the downpipe and dumptube done. I should be picking up all the work he did for me this weekend.

I will start the next phase of my flight training on Tuesday, which will take up majority of my free time for the next 4-6 weeks. I will try and work a little at a time so when I get my next break in training I can use it to get the car running and tuned.

On to more car porn, but first my new shift boot my wife bought me for our anniversary 93 Civic Password:JDM shift boot:



Dumptube and Downpipe intertwined beautifully:





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