Any luck so far?
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The hard part of this problem is the solid mil .
I'm looking at the Haynes manual and it says dash fuse #2 is connected to both the main relay and the ecm. Did you check the inside fuses already too?
Edit: what about the two big plugs connecting the engine harness to the interior?Last edited by ferenza; 12-18-2015, 03:26 AM.
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fuses been looked over and changed, i cleaned out the plugs to the harness no change.Originally posted by ferenza View Post
I hope to have time tonight to check out some things and in the morningComment
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Checked to see if I'm getting voltage to the engine, I only got one 11.6v on a dizzy plug and big plug on passenger side main, rest were 6.5 with a bit of flux from when car was cranked,. Tomorrow I'll check main ecu plugs in the cabin,Comment
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Have you tried to switch the ECU with a spare just to see if it makes a difference?Originally posted by Darkcloud View PostComment
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It seems to be an issue with the wiring, is this the CB you did a wire tuck on?
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Yes this is the cb I tucked, only the light harness, basically I tried doing a resistor box delete car was working fine prior, only thing I can think of off the top of my head is busted ground somewhere. I'll be looking at it the next 3 days. If I can't find it anything I'll have taken to shop when I can. But I doubt shops a lot since most scam people all the time.Originally posted by Davids92Accord View PostComment
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still no luc anyone ever figure this outComment
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Are you still using the obd2 injectors without the resistor box?Originally posted by Darkcloud View PostCB7TUNER.com
Educating each other one car at a time.Comment
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Went back to obd1 with resistor box.Comment
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I think you should revisit the pump not priming issue. As was mentioned before, this is one of the first signals that the ECU sends out.
You can check it on the main relay harness. One of those coils should go to 0v then back to 12v. I don't know the wire color off hand.Comment
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Ok, read this over multiple times.
1. Stay away from shops. They'll drain the wallet trying to figure this out.
2. Focus all attention on the fuel pump not getting voltage
We all know if you have blown relay then the fuel pump will not get voltage, but you said you looked into this already. You said you tried known good ECUs too.
As mentioned here we need to know if the main relay is sending voltage to the pump from the wire/solder connection that leaves the relay. I believe this is pin 7 of the main relay, not sure of wire color as I don't have the manual here with me for electrical diagram (I'm at work). Stick a volt meter on that wire, use a good ground, turn the key and you should see voltage for 2-3 seconds.
Has this been tried?
Can there be fault in that wire on its route to the pump?Comment
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I did that and got 12v at the relay plug, now the thing I need to know is if my pump is bad, then why did the pump work when jump directly from the battery to see if it was bad, which I ended up with fuel at the rail. Now if it's bad still and can be jumped directly from battery and work I'll change it if proven. So far I can't find any info if a bad pump can be bad but prime when under direct load.
But that half the problem the other half is that I'm not getting spark after trying working distributors, 10 to be exact some brand new some off a few running cars. What the cause of that.
I'll try the pin 7 again it could be possible I pinned the wrong one while looking for voltage. Would love to get this running againComment
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