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Old 05-05-2012, 09:08 PM   #1
TypeS-Musician
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Stage 3 Clutch: NEED SUGGESTIONS!

Hello. As i was swapping out my OEM clutch and flywheel with a stage 2, my brothers' preludes clutch went bad, so we put the stage 2 in that one since my car is on jacks and currently not running. Now, ive driven with a stage 2 for a long time and the pedal wasnt really heavyer to push compared to the OEM clutch. So my question is, if i go to a stage 3 clutch and flywheel is it gonna be bothersome if you drive normally? I know it wont bother me, but sometimes my mom or girl will take my car if they needed to, and i dont want them to have a hard time driving it because of that.

Any suggestion will help, Thanks
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:30 PM   #2
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Why do you feel the need for a stage 3...? A clutch adds no more power or makes the car handle any better than an OEM. Unless you need a stage 3 (car running over 300HP if i'm correct) why put one in there...?

I have driven cars with stage 3 clutches, and personally it sucked. My leg was killing me from pushing the clutch in. Those vehicle actually had the HP to warrant the stage 3 clutches.

If your mom and girl are going to be driving it, I doubt it has over 300 hp...

my apologies if i'm wrong...
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:25 AM   #3
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Hydraulic clutch. They don't give a care what stage you put in there, the pedal is virtually unchanged.

Buy a cheap oem clutch.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:14 AM   #4
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I'm going to be running about 250+ on HP naturally aspirated. I did more reading and stage 3 is indeed uneccesary. I think stage 2 clutch and flywheel is my best bet because ill get the lighter flywheel I want, and I won't have to worry about the clutch slipping. Thanks for the input guys
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:29 AM   #5
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Please do explain this 250+hp N/A setup.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeS-Musician View Post
I'm going to be running about 250+ on HP naturally aspirated. I did more reading and stage 3 is indeed uneccesary. I think stage 2 clutch and flywheel is my best bet because ill get the lighter flywheel I want, and I won't have to worry about the clutch slipping. Thanks for the input guys
BS. I say.

I would also love to hear about it. Cause that much N/a power isnt cheap. Also if you had the bank for that type of 2.2l build you wouldn't be in here asking people.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:49 AM   #7
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BS. I say.
He didn't even state what engine he was going to be using, or what car for that matter . . .
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:08 AM   #8
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A Instead of getting a new car, I asked for a new motor. I got the H22A Type S engine (Only made in Japan) and tranny. It came with everything, it was a plug and play for $3000 on my 93 accord ex. The Type S has 217 HP stock, my mods are: Intake, Full exhaust system, twin-loop muffler, ignition system, and fuel system. So I crunched the numbers and that's my guess. Big deal if a little off. Parts are not THAT expensive, and me and my dad do all the work ourselves so we aren't paying mechanics for their labor. I was just asking a simple question if a stage 3 clutch would be better, because I had a stage 2 before.
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:21 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by TypeS-Musician View Post
A Instead of getting a new car, I asked for a new motor. I got the H22A Type S engine (Only made in Japan) and tranny. It came with everything, it was a plug and play for $3000 on my 93 accord ex. The Type S has 217 HP stock, my mods are: Intake, Full exhaust system, twin-loop muffler, ignition system, and fuel system. So I crunched the numbers and that's my guess. Big deal if a little off. Parts are not THAT expensive, and me and my dad do all the work ourselves so we aren't paying mechanics for their labor. I was just asking a simple question if a stage 3 clutch would be better, because I had a stage 2 before.
And my accord was handed down to me by my dad. So whenever her F22A6 gave out after 300,000 miles, and my parents were gonna help me pay for a new car (new as in another used car), I asked for the engine instead. So I'm not loaded or anything
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:26 AM   #10
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You don't need a "Stage 3" anything.

MortsAccord summed it up perfectly above. You have a hydraulic clutch system. The pedal is not going to be stiffer.

I've said it before... a clutch is like a condom. Get the product that best matches your equipment. A quality "stage 3" clutch will be for a seriously modified engine. A stock H22 Type S will be fine with OEM, or a "stage 1" from most quality clutch manufacturers.

Get yourself a good Exedy or Daikin. You'll be fine.
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:44 AM   #11
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Alright thanks for advice. I won't be getting that then
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:47 AM   #12
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Clutches are usually rated at whp, and the Type S is likely to make no more than 180-185whp, if that. 250whp N/A will actually require some pretty extensive mods (and it would essentially be undoing everything that makes that more expensive Type S engine different from a regular H22A)
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:59 AM   #13
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HELL no I'm making 250 at the wheels. I'm MAYBE making 220 whp, I'm not sure. Like I said these are all guesses on my part. I could be talking out of my ass for all I know.
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:10 AM   #14
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217 at the crank, minus losses due to age and wear, minus 15-18% drivetrain loss... 180whp is more likely in stock form. Are you running a custom tuned ECU? If not, some serious wiring would have been needed to run the Type S's OBD2 ECU. An OBD1 P13 from a base model H22 is what you'd be using otherwise.

I seriously doubt you're even close to 200whp. 250whp would take new internals, head work, new cams, a custom intake manifold, a high quality header, and a good dyno tune. Doing all that to a Type S is a waste, honestly. Because, as I said, most of the parts that make the Type S different from any other H22 will be replaced with aftermarket bits that would do just as well in a cheaper H22 (as in, an H22 that costs about $800.)
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:26 AM   #15
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Yeah I'm doing the OBD1 converstion to avoid the wiring of hell. Other then what I already named, I won't be doing anything else to my Type S. Like you said, it would be changing the whole concept of it being a Type S. I guess I was completely off on my guesses for the whole HP or WHP, whatever you prefer. Once I get it all together and take it in for a dyno, ill be able to see what she can do. Thanks for all your input
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:36 AM   #16
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As everyone has said you have no need for a stage 3 clutch. I have a stage 2 CC kit on my h22a1 and the pedal feels the same as my oem on my DD accord's f22a6. The only difference I have noticed on the stage 2 is a slightly harder engagement, but nothing drastic.

On a side note the beginner section can be used for entertainment as well
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeS-Musician View Post
Yeah I'm doing the OBD1 converstion to avoid the wiring of hell. Other then what I already named, I won't be doing anything else to my Type S. Like you said, it would be changing the whole concept of it being a Type S. I guess I was completely off on my guesses for the whole HP or WHP, whatever you prefer. Once I get it all together and take it in for a dyno, ill be able to see what she can do. Thanks for all your input
whp = wheel horsepower. An engine's power rating when advertised by the manufacturer is measured at the crank. whp is measured at the wheels, after drivetrain losses.

I have a 200hp JDM H22A (technically, 197ps... close enough). It was making roughly 160-165whp in stock form. With my limited mods (intake, exhaust, crank pulley, street tuned ecu) I estimate that I'm making roughly 180-185whp now... Of course, I'm probably losing a bit due to the age and condition of my old engine.



Your Type S won't even be making the full 117hp if you convert to OBD1 and run an OBD1 P13. That ECU is tuned for a milder cam and lower compression. It should run just fine, but you won't see all the power.
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