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Exhaust or suspension

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    Exhaust or suspension

    With $700 would you go with tein suspension or
    Megan catback? I'm stuck between both but
    I'm not sure which one to go with.

    #2
    suspension first, itll be the most noticeable and fulfilling upgrade..
    youd pay 700 bucks for a catback?? wtf.. I paid about that much for my h22 tri-y header, 2.5" mandrel bent stainless piping, 18" magnaflow resonator and vibrant street power muffler and all the band clamps, section of flex and j-spec header collector.

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      #3
      Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
      suspension first, itll be the most noticeable and fulfilling upgrade..
      youd pay 700 bucks for a catback?? wtf.. I paid about that much for my h22 tri-y header, 2.5" mandrel bent stainless piping, 18" magnaflow resonator and vibrant street power muffler and all the band clamps, section of flex and j-spec header collector.
      Agreed. 700 dollars for a cat back exhaust is extremely high. I think my whole exhaust system cost maybe 250. But that's a downpipe, to a glasspack resonator, to a megan racing muffler 3" mandrel bent stainless steel piping
      ~Nick~
      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
      MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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        #4
        Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
        Agreed. 700 dollars for a cat back exhaust is extremely high. I think my whole exhaust system cost maybe 250. But that's a downpipe, to a glasspack resonator, to a megan racing muffler 3" mandrel bent stainless steel piping
        Well yeah, he's looking at a bolt in piece that is good to go when he buys it. The exhaust that you both have are custom built. The price is going to be a lot different.

        To the OP:

        I would invest that money into the suspension. But, I wouldn't recommend Tein suspension. I have had numerous bad experiences with this company's parts and have heard of many more.

        Comment


          #5
          Tein has been a victim of many knockoff scam artists on eBay, so many bad experiences reported may actually be due to someone buying fakes... though it is true, Tein isn't exactly a top-tier suspension company. I'd trust them over the majority of the lower-priced stuff on the market for the CB, though. Definitely more than crap like D2, TruHart, Raceland, Emusa, etc... those things are just dangerous! I'd trust them over more respected cheap brands as well (Function & Form Autolife, Megan Racing, Yonaka, etc...)

          I'd rather spend my money on a set of Koni Yellows and either some Ground Control coilovers, or better yet some quality springs (H&R, Neuspeed, Vogtland, Eibach.) IMO, full-bodied coilovers are unnecessary unless you truly have the need, knowledge, and tools to fully utilize them. I don't have those things, and I know the majority of the people here don't either (I don't meant that in an insulting way... very few people here do serious competitive driving, which is the only reason you'd need such a thing!)


          As for the exhaust... Megan Racing is really just a knockoff company. One of the better ones, but still a knockoff. Most of their exhausts are copies of Apexi stuff. If you're going to spend big money on an exhaust, I'd say just spend it on Apexi. The quality is superior. I remember when you could spend $130 on eBay for a Megan Racing exhaust, header, and test pipe (don't use a test pipe on a street car... ever.) Now, Megan Racing is often regarded as a "real" company... even though they don't engineer any of their own parts.
          Still, an exhaust is an exhaust... so get what you like the looks and sound of. Higher quality units will often offer better and more consistent sound and fitment, and possibly a longer life... but that's really it. Unlike suspension, no real harm will come from buying a crap exhaust system.






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            #6
            If he is looking for a comfort ride the tein dress up springs are some of the softest decent springs you can get, then combined with some koni strts it is a nice oem+ comfort ride.
            IMO it is too damn soft. The koni yellows and something like the eibach, H&R, or neuspeeds will give you a nice firm performance oriented ride.
            CB7TUNER.com
            Educating each other one car at a time.

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              #7
              The Megan is about $400. My budget is $700

              Comment


                #8
                You can't have safe reliable suspension for 700. You need camber kits, alignment, plus whatever is bad when doing the job itself like tie rods, axles, and balljoints. I'd say get a custom 2.5" at a shop with your choice of muffler and resonator. Then save up for a proper setup for the suspension.

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                  #9
                  http://www.ebay.com/itm/KONI-STR-T-O...xT-ZBV&vxp=mtr
                  http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEIN-S-TECH-...F0ZFQ&vxp=mtr\
                  http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/82013
                  rockauto.com for your ball joints
                  yep it will be over $800 for a safe inexpensive suspension set-up
                  CB7TUNER.com
                  Educating each other one car at a time.

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                    #10
                    2.25" for an F22A (stock to mildly modified, 2.5" for an H22A (stock to mildly modified). 2.5" isn't terrible for an F22A, but it'll move the powerband up a little higher than necessary. 2.25" would probably get you usable power and a more reasonable RPM range.
                    Most full aftermarket exhaust systems are going to be 60mm, which translates to 2.36"... right in the middle of the two.

                    And I agree with F22Chris 100&#37; on the suspension. You cannot do a full suspension safely for $700.
                    You could probably find yourself a ghetto set of coilovers (like Raceland or Emusa) for $400 or less. Ignore tie rods, ball joints, and bushings. Forego the camber kit (because "camber doesn't kill tires, toe does!" ) Then you could go shell out $80 for an alignment. That leaves you $220 to blow on things that are actually broken in the process (ball joints and axles sometimes break.) Possible? Yes. Safe? Hell no. Halfass anything else on your car... but please, if not for your own sake, then for the sake of the people sharing the road with you... DON'T halfass the things that keep you in control of your vehicle! Wheels, suspension, tires, brakes, and steering. If those things fail you, you're just along for the ride.

                    To do your suspension properly, you will need:

                    Either-
                    A quality set of springs (about $200 new), and a set of shocks that can handle the drop ($350-$500, depending on how low/stiff your chosen springs are). Your springs and shocks must match, or safety becomes an issue. You can't lower your car on stock replacement shocks and expect it to be safe (even before the shocks blow out, which they will do soon enough.) Mild shock upgrades, such as Koni STR.T, are fine for a mild drop (1.5" or so). They're no good for a low drop, or for extremely stiff springs. You will need to look into Koni Yellows (properly known as Koni Sport) or Tokico Illuminas if you want a low/stiff drop.
                    OR
                    A quality set of adjustable coilovers. There are MANY shite brands on the market for these cars now, so you really have to be careful what you buy. Brands like Raceland, D2, TruHart, Emusa, and other similarly priced things are nothing more than cheaply made knockoff junk. Anyone that says otherwise either got very lucky, or has no basis for comparison. Remember, this is your life riding on these things! The cheapest decent-quality brand (as in, a suspension company that actually engineers and manufactures their own products) you're going to find will be Tein. Tein Street Basis will go for $500 or less, if you shop smart (just beware of knockoffs... Tein has been a victim of knockoff artists selling crap disguised as Tein products... be sure you buy from an authorized seller.) If you want to shell out a little more, you can get much better products, including better models from Tein, H&R, KW, or even some Koni Yellow shocks with Ground Control sleeves (the ONLY sleeves you should ever consider.)

                    So for the "drop" alone, you're anywhere between $500 and $700 already. That's before tax and shipping, mind you.

                    Now you need a camber kit. The only brands that should be considered are Ingalls and SPC. They are not cheap. Expect to pay $200 or more for all 4 corners. There are two types available... anchor bolt kits and ball joint kits. Both are equally effective, and you can get either style from either Ingalls or SPC. Buy whatever you (or your alignment tech) prefers. I prefer the anchor bolt style myself.
                    There are plenty of cheap knockoffs out there that look 100% identical to the Ingalls and SPC units... but I assure you, THEY ARE NOT. I actually made the stupid mistake of buying a Dropzone camber kit about a decade ago. In about 2 weeks, one side broke. There was about 3mm of metal hanging on by the time I got home. Had it given out completely, I'd have crashed while doing 65mph in the left-hand lane of a 3 lane highway at rush hour. When that stuff breaks, you crash.

                    Now we're at a minimum of $700. We've hit your budget. Exceeded it with tax and shipping, most likely.

                    Assuming all is good underneath your car, you'll still need to drop $80 or so on an alignment. Possibly more, depending on how your local shops view lowered cars. Some shops won't touch a modified car (it's too great a liability.) Others may charge more for a lowered car, since camber adjustments aren't usually included in their basic alignment package. The cheapest shop isn't always best... and a bad alignment will kill your tires quick. New tires are more expensive than a quality alignment.
                    If you decide to get an adjustable coilover system, and you plan on playing with the height, keep in mind that you'll need to have the wheels realigned each time you mess with it. Some places, such as Firestone, will offer a lifetime alignment package for about $200. That's something to consider.

                    Now we're at about $780.

                    Of course, these cars are now a quarter-century old. Incredibly, many of them are still on original tie rods, ball joints, and bushings. That says a lot for Honda quality, doesn't it? Still, those things are well past their expected life. Even if they've been replaced, they're still likely well past the point of needing to be changed again.
                    For these things, especially when lowering, you REALLY want to go with OEM Honda parts. Aftermarket junk just doesn't last... and as I've said a few times thus far, your life is riding on these things! Front lower ball joints will run you about $25 a pop. Tie rod ends will run about $60 a pop. Rear upper control arms may be alright (or you could replace them with full adjustable SPC upper arms... though they're over $100 per side.)
                    That's $200 minimum, for the parts necessary for safety (those things should be changed regardless of whether or not you lower, honestly.)

                    After tax and shipping, you're now over $1000 for even the cheapest option for safely lowering your car.
                    That amount could probably be doubled if you really got top quality stuff, and replaced everything that SHOULD be replaced (wheel bearings, bushings all around, etc...)






                    Comment


                      #11
                      No offense, but can you post some pictures of the car so I can cast an informed vote?
                      If the car is in rough shape, I'd say use the money for something more worth-while, like fixing damage on the body, rust, etc...
                      If the car is in exceptional shape, then I'd say suspension will be your best choice. The only thing an exhaust will do for you on a stock engine is make you loud, and best case scenario you *might* see an increase in mpg's but it would probably be minimal at best. My RSX somehow gained 50 miles per tank when I added a full exhaust, but I am not doubtful that everyone would see the same benefits. Low is better than loud IMO.
                      CC2 Vigor.

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