not even a week after installing a new alternator, 2nd time replacing the 1st one was from junk yard and it worked for like 4 months, battery light came on, so i just bought a new one and installed it, now not even a week and my battery lights on. what should i do, i think its getting harder to start.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
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new alternator and battery lights back on
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Well there's a couple of things you should check out.
1. Is the plug on the alternator pushed in all the way? Make sure it's not a little bit loose.
2. Have you checked the voltage on the alternator? Remember, just because it's new, doesnt mean it can't be defective.
3. Have you checked your grounds? Even though it's more audio intended, one would benifit from doing a big 3 because remember, your grounds are 20 years old.
That's all I can think of for now.
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which grounds to check ones on motor, they look good to me, yes its all plugged in nothing loose, checked fuses, and started car also removed the negative cable. car died, so its not charging at all. i dont have much tools as where i live, if i rev it to almost red line it will go off but as soon as i let off pedal it will come back on, im bout ready for a new car
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Automotive lead acid batteries do not take full discharges gracefully, when was the last time you replaced the battery? I would start there.
A bad alt can destroy a battery, a bad battery can destroy an alt.
Alt has nothing to do with starter so obviously if the car is harder to start the problem is the batteries amp output is lower than before.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Originally posted by siccmade View Postabout a year ago. tested batt last month, still good1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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OEM is best, you can even find a higher output oem possibly in the junk yard if you run extra lights or electronics that are taxing on your electrical system.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Originally posted by siccmade View Postwhich grounds to check ones on motor, they look good to me, yes its all plugged in nothing loose, checked fuses, and started car also removed the negative cable. car died, so its not charging at all. i dont have much tools as where i live, if i rev it to almost red line it will go off but as soon as i let off pedal it will come back on, im bout ready for a new car
http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htmA&P-IA
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Originally posted by oyajicool View PostJust FYI, removing the negative cable while the is running is not proper way to check for charging system.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm
Now back on topic. As it has been stated before, go to any auto place they do free charging system checks. it takes a couple of minutes and it includes the battery, starter and alternator. If all of those work good, then your problem may be in your amp/cap. I have many customers that have bad problems with their audio systems because they did not get them professionally installed. Next it could be a short in your system, such as something being grounded on the chassis or two wires touching that shouldnt be. Another thing it could be is a light or alarm staying on and draining more power than necessary.
if after you check all that let me know and il try to help you figure more possibilities. And just cause you say you got a new alternator, I can tell you now that the only place that sells new alternators is the dealer and they have to order them. Every other parts place has remanufactured alternators and I have seen those go bad in 2 hours. and I have seen 400 dollar brand spanking new from the dealer alternators and starters go bad in a day to a week.
Rush
Originally posted by DarkcloudBought 3 things, 1 that goes boom,1 that shades and 1 to go fasrer
Originally posted by bmxicansdso you got a boombox, sunglasses and rosettta stone?
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If you have a multimeter go ahead and check the batteries voltage. If you have anything over 12V you should be good, but you should see 13-14V. If you show that and your charging light is still on then it is either in the dash or the wiring to the dash.
If you are putting out more then 14V like if you see 16V or something like that, that isn't good either.1991 Honda Accord 2DR LX 180,000 Miles RIP
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Yes your battery has to be new or fully charged when installing a new alternator, otherwise it will "shock" the new alternator and kill it. At least thats what the parts guy explained to me when I returned a "defective" alternator I bought for my gf's Civic. lol
Now I just put the charger on the battery for a few hours when installing a new alternator. No problems.
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I've had to replace the alternator on my cb7 before. The first time the battery light came on my alternator was putting out close to 16v. Replaced the entire alternator, and it was good for a couple days, and the light came back on again. This time the alternator was charging fine at idle, but would undercharge during cruise. Replaced it again, and I haven't had a problem with it since. So brand new components can be dead on arrival, or die shortly after put into use. Consider returning the alternator you have now, and maybe purchasing one from a different manufacturer and/or parts store all together.Last edited by cloudasc; 10-20-2012, 02:58 PM.
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