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new alternator and battery lights back on

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    new alternator and battery lights back on

    not even a week after installing a new alternator, 2nd time replacing the 1st one was from junk yard and it worked for like 4 months, battery light came on, so i just bought a new one and installed it, now not even a week and my battery lights on. what should i do, i think its getting harder to start.

    #2
    Well there's a couple of things you should check out.

    1. Is the plug on the alternator pushed in all the way? Make sure it's not a little bit loose.
    2. Have you checked the voltage on the alternator? Remember, just because it's new, doesnt mean it can't be defective.
    3. Have you checked your grounds? Even though it's more audio intended, one would benifit from doing a big 3 because remember, your grounds are 20 years old.

    That's all I can think of for now.

    Comment


      #3
      which grounds to check ones on motor, they look good to me, yes its all plugged in nothing loose, checked fuses, and started car also removed the negative cable. car died, so its not charging at all. i dont have much tools as where i live, if i rev it to almost red line it will go off but as soon as i let off pedal it will come back on, im bout ready for a new car

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        #4
        Automotive lead acid batteries do not take full discharges gracefully, when was the last time you replaced the battery? I would start there.

        A bad alt can destroy a battery, a bad battery can destroy an alt.

        Alt has nothing to do with starter so obviously if the car is harder to start the problem is the batteries amp output is lower than before.

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          #5
          about a year ago. tested batt last month, still good

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by siccmade View Post
            about a year ago. tested batt last month, still good
            Get it tested again. Things can change in a month and I killed a new battery in two weeks with poor charging, the dead battery then killed the alternator next. I had to replace both at once.

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              #7
              The battery im my cb was 19 years old. Alt killed it
              visit vgruk

              Comment


                #8
                Is it best to replace the OEM alternator with another, or upgrade?

                Comment


                  #9
                  OEM is best, you can even find a higher output oem possibly in the junk yard if you run extra lights or electronics that are taxing on your electrical system.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks WildBill, I'm not running anything too elaborate. Just my amp for the sub. But my power cap keeps the flow ok, no lights dimming or anything. Figure just an OEM will do.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by siccmade View Post
                      which grounds to check ones on motor, they look good to me, yes its all plugged in nothing loose, checked fuses, and started car also removed the negative cable. car died, so its not charging at all. i dont have much tools as where i live, if i rev it to almost red line it will go off but as soon as i let off pedal it will come back on, im bout ready for a new car
                      Just FYI, removing the negative cable while the is running is not proper way to check for charging system.

                      http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm
                      A&P-IA

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
                        Just FYI, removing the negative cable while the is running is not proper way to check for charging system.

                        http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm
                        This trick is true up to a certain year. Our cars, yes you can use the removing battery cable trick, but if you have a new car please do not try this. most newer cars have a built in feature that does not let the car stay on if the battery is disconnected. It will shut off and the car may not turn back on because of that feature. The ECU will go into protective mode and will have to be factory reset by the dealer which they charge one pretty penny.


                        Now back on topic. As it has been stated before, go to any auto place they do free charging system checks. it takes a couple of minutes and it includes the battery, starter and alternator. If all of those work good, then your problem may be in your amp/cap. I have many customers that have bad problems with their audio systems because they did not get them professionally installed. Next it could be a short in your system, such as something being grounded on the chassis or two wires touching that shouldnt be. Another thing it could be is a light or alarm staying on and draining more power than necessary.

                        if after you check all that let me know and il try to help you figure more possibilities. And just cause you say you got a new alternator, I can tell you now that the only place that sells new alternators is the dealer and they have to order them. Every other parts place has remanufactured alternators and I have seen those go bad in 2 hours. and I have seen 400 dollar brand spanking new from the dealer alternators and starters go bad in a day to a week.

                        Rush


                        Originally posted by Darkcloud
                        Bought 3 things, 1 that goes boom,1 that shades and 1 to go fasrer
                        Originally posted by bmxicansd
                        so you got a boombox, sunglasses and rosettta stone?

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                          #13
                          If you have a multimeter go ahead and check the batteries voltage. If you have anything over 12V you should be good, but you should see 13-14V. If you show that and your charging light is still on then it is either in the dash or the wiring to the dash.

                          If you are putting out more then 14V like if you see 16V or something like that, that isn't good either.
                          1991 Honda Accord 2DR LX 180,000 Miles RIP

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yes your battery has to be new or fully charged when installing a new alternator, otherwise it will "shock" the new alternator and kill it. At least thats what the parts guy explained to me when I returned a "defective" alternator I bought for my gf's Civic. lol

                            Now I just put the charger on the battery for a few hours when installing a new alternator. No problems.
                            1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser

                            1986 Chevrolet C10|5.3L|SM465|Shortbed|Custom Deluxe

                            1983 Malibu Wagon|TPI 305|T5 5 speed|3.73 non-posi


                            1992 Accord Wagon (RETIRED)

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                              #15
                              I've had to replace the alternator on my cb7 before. The first time the battery light came on my alternator was putting out close to 16v. Replaced the entire alternator, and it was good for a couple days, and the light came back on again. This time the alternator was charging fine at idle, but would undercharge during cruise. Replaced it again, and I haven't had a problem with it since. So brand new components can be dead on arrival, or die shortly after put into use. Consider returning the alternator you have now, and maybe purchasing one from a different manufacturer and/or parts store all together.
                              Last edited by cloudasc; 10-20-2012, 02:58 PM.
                              PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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