Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

Is a cold air intake better than the stock intake?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Factory AP1 filter FTW, autostoned has them..


    for now im using the stock duct which goes to about the distributor, from that a chunk of old ebay short ram with a bend and the (spec)rectum filter sits behind my battery.

    i used a half size radiator to give me half of the front of the car to make an air scoop which will feed a canister with the ap1 filter in it from there some mandrel bent black ABS pipe to the throttle body, i might make a canister just before the throttle body out of some 4 or 6" pipe as like an air reservoir i will try heat expansion too and maybe replicate my own whale dick or other smooth bulb instead of the canister for volume reserve



    im glad my intake was at that height with some of the rain we've had ive had to go thru puddles about 2 feet deep.
    Last edited by illinois_erik; 09-12-2016, 01:26 PM.

    Comment


      #17
      Hydrolocking the motor shouldn't be an issue... AEM makes these....



      This bypass valve will not let any water into the intake when the snorkel is dumped in the water. There is a famous video of the owner of AEM using his personal car. He hooked up a hose to the intake tube with a bypass filter and stuck the other end of the hose into a bucket of water. This completely submerged the intake and began sucking in water until it reached the bypass valve and stopped the water from getting in the motor. Super easy to install.

      As for the rusted hole, why wouldn't you paint some primer over the cut metal? It would seal the exposed metal from any water and help prevent/delay build-up of any rust. Did you really just cut a hole and leave it bare?

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
        Factory AP1 filter FTW, autostoned has them..
        I was thinking about that yesterday when I was watching Engineering Explained. A factory cone filter > everything else.

        YouTube Clicky!!

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
          I was thinking about that yesterday when I was watching Engineering Explained. A factory cone filter > everything else.
          Will these fit the factory air snorkel?

          You can install a K&N filter onto the stock snorkel just by using a piece of PVC or exhaust pipe and it accomplishes the same thing as a "short ram" air intake kit. Be aware that K&N filters aren't as effective as stock paper filters for removing particulates.
          1992 EX, 306,000 miles - Track toy - M2S4, H23A1, ST rear swaybar, Wagon brakes, GC coil sleeves, KYB AGX dampers, Stoptech pads, Toyo Proxes R1R, 2.25" exhaust



          Stock F22A6
          VIR, 5/22/2016: https://youtu.be/eR5-ylSPsxk

          H23A1 powered
          NCCAR, 9/4/2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI5WpxGrEpE
          CMP, 10/16/2016: https://youtu.be/DOqoe5f-GLY

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
            Hydrolocking the motor shouldn't be an issue... AEM makes these....



            This bypass valve will not let any water into the intake when the snorkel is dumped in the water. There is a famous video of the owner of AEM using his personal car. He hooked up a hose to the intake tube with a bypass filter and stuck the other end of the hose into a bucket of water. This completely submerged the intake and began sucking in water until it reached the bypass valve and stopped the water from getting in the motor. Super easy to install.

            As for the rusted hole, why wouldn't you paint some primer over the cut metal? It would seal the exposed metal from any water and help prevent/delay build-up of any rust. Did you really just cut a hole and leave it bare?
            Interesting. I'd like to see that video.

            And yes, Deev really did cut a hole and leave it bare and now warns others from his mistakes. Such a newb :P

            Comment


              #21
              No, I actually painted it right away. It rusted. I ground the rust off, sprayed it with Rustoleum rust converter, and painted it again. The rust came back.


              The bypass valve is a useful thing, for sure. It just seems unnecessary to me, given the minimal gains to be had from a CAI. It's a $60 item, on top of the cost of the intake itself. The valve also decreases the intake's effectiveness by a bit as well. So if you'd normally gain 3-4hp, you might gain 2-3 with the valve installed.






              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                No, I actually painted it right away. It rusted. I ground the rust off, sprayed it with Rustoleum rust converter, and painted it again. The rust came back.


                The bypass valve is a useful thing, for sure. It just seems unnecessary to me, given the minimal gains to be had from a CAI. It's a $60 item, on top of the cost of the intake itself. The valve also decreases the intake's effectiveness by a bit as well. So if you'd normally gain 3-4hp, you might gain 2-3 with the valve installed.
                Ya, i'm confused by the valve. It looks like it would simply suck air in through the bypass valve rather than the cone at the end of the piping.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I think it's a rubber valve that stays closed unless there's resistance in the main pipe. As soon as that happens, the valve opens before the water can get sucked up.
                  Kinda like having a drinking straw with a hole in it. Put a finger over the hole, and it'll draw air or liquid all the way up the straw. Pull your finger off the hole, and liquid won't be able to be sucked in due to a lack of suction.

                  They're very effective. I just feel the whole cold air intake itself is unnecessary. Years ago, companies needed every gimmick they could find to promise an extra horsepower or two. These days, the difference between 100whp and 101whp is so slight that nobody in the tuner world really cares anymore.






                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                    I think it's a rubber valve that stays closed unless there's resistance in the main pipe. As soon as that happens, the valve opens before the water can get sucked up.
                    Kinda like having a drinking straw with a hole in it. Put a finger over the hole, and it'll draw air or liquid all the way up the straw. Pull your finger off the hole, and liquid won't be able to be sucked in due to a lack of suction.

                    They're very effective. I just feel the whole cold air intake itself is unnecessary. Years ago, companies needed every gimmick they could find to promise an extra horsepower or two. These days, the difference between 100whp and 101whp is so slight that nobody in the tuner world really cares anymore.
                    Hear that. The effectiveness of a CAI is the same as when I just got off the toilet :P

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Weight reduction... could actually be more effective!






                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        No, I actually painted it right away. It rusted. I ground the rust off, sprayed it with Rustoleum rust converter, and painted it again. The rust came back.


                        The bypass valve is a useful thing, for sure. It just seems unnecessary to me, given the minimal gains to be had from a CAI. It's a $60 item, on top of the cost of the intake itself. The valve also decreases the intake's effectiveness by a bit as well. So if you'd normally gain 3-4hp, you might gain 2-3 with the valve installed.
                        I about said the same thing the other day but was to tired to type it up.

                        It's also important to install it in the correct location or it's useless and will not keep water from getting sucked into the engine. Understand how it works and research the product. I say this because I've seen two installed on a car in person and they were not installed in the correct location.


                        Edit... I've always thought it would be cool to tig up an aluminum air filter box. But, plexiglass would be cheaper and wouldn't require a tig. Just a thought I had for a cool project.

                        Something similar to this.

                        Last edited by H311RA151N; 09-15-2016, 07:11 PM.




                        Comment


                          #27
                          My friend created a box for his intake using cheap sheet metal. I think he just bent it into place. Not the most refined solution, but it's somewhat along those lines!

                          I'm almost hesitant to give credence to any intake upgrade, since they seem to be fairly functionless. A cone filter on stock plastic piping seems to work as well as anything else. Doesn't look as good, but gains (or lack thereof) seem to be about the same. The stock intake seems to flow well enough for the stock intake manifold. So until the intake manifold can flow more, there's little to gain from an intake upgrade. I believe a few people have H series intake manifolds with stock H series intake piping, and that is also sufficient.
                          After a while, if you have a full N/A build, the only solution is probably going to be ITBs (which I wouldn't want to run on a street car, unless I devised some sort of filtration system...)






                          Comment


                            #28
                            I always wondered how much engineering Honda put into the stock air boxes. Some of them have sound chambers, while others do not. Obviously they designed it to have the max air flow possible already, especially when working with the TB and Upper Plenum etc.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Everyone focuses on power but many also forgot to mention the sound benefits of a Cold Air vs. the stock intake.

                              I remember when I first got my car back in Oct 2003, the very first mod I did was an AEM Cold Air intake when I was 16. I didn't care how much power it made, but it sure made me smile when I heard the induction sound on a bone stock engine.

                              member's ride thread
                              93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
                              99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
                              91 Accord SE 176k
                              97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

                              Comment


                                #30
                                That is very true. I always liked the sound of the CAI on my H22A. I had a short ram on my supercharged 3800 in my 2002 Grand Prix GTP, and that made me smile as well. It had a puff-snarl sound that I loved. Unfortunately, that comparison is pointless, since those are two completely different engines!

                                I'd say the sound and appearance of a CAI are probably better reasons to get one than the potential performance increase.






                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X