Clicking boost solenoid & running lean

[Raf99]

so what I was talking about is atmospheric discharge. if you pull the vacation line it will want to stay closed always and run all stupid.

try pulling the recirculation tube from the bov.

I tried that. But then the BOV just stays close and does nothing when you rev the car. You want to see if there is an improvment to the problem?

[Raf99]

BOV connected to manifold


Disconnected BOV



interesting results, wasn't expecting it.

- you see me holding the throttle for a bit and rev it
- the rpms drop down to 800 ish at 0:11sec
- the A/F shoots through the roof for a moment, (maybe injectors shutting off)
- then IGN is funky and A/F is through the roof <- this is where it wants to stall too

[toycar]

BOV connected to manifold


Disconnected BOV



interesting results, wasn't expecting it.

- you see me holding the throttle for a bit and rev it
- the rpms drop down to 800 ish at 0:11sec
- the A/F shoots through the roof for a moment, (maybe injectors shutting off)
- then IGN is funky and A/F is through the roof <- this is where it wants to stall too

looks like a step in the right direction. whats happening with fuel pressure when the spike happens? what are tou running for pump, rail and regulator? Does it continously spike once in a while, like if you let it idle for 30 minutes will this happen periodically, or is it specific to when you let off the gas?

whathe msd are you running?

[Raf99]

Only happens after letting off the throttle and only when the car is warmed up. Worst the longer you drive. And it's not the giant A/F ratio spike after letting off the gas, it's after that when the car tries to recover. You can see the IGN go up and fluctuate rapidly. That shouldn't happen it should go right back to level 11deg. like it was before i reved it. It will eventually recover but the hotter it gets the hard job it has recovering.

At 15sec is where the problem starts and the car wants to die, at 20sec is the car going into massive lean conditions that spike to 17a/f. I'm thinking i need to pressure test the MAP sensor again right now. I'm also thinking a new battery and alternator wouldn't hurt although there is no proof of these items slacking.

whats happening with fuel pressure when the spike happens?
- fuel pressure is fine, level to my knowledge. INJ is also showing ont he graph

what are tou running for pump, rail and regulator?
- Walbro 255lph, AEM rail, AEM regulator

Does it continously spike once in a while, like if you let it idle for 30 minutes will this happen periodically, or is it specific to when you let off the gas?
- no spiking once in a while. at idle its fine, holding it at a certain rpm it will wonder back and forth like a vacuum leak. Letting off the gas is the issue as it results in lean conditions when it tries to recover/idle and also wants to stall

whathe msd are you running?
Just a blaster coil SS 8207 I believe it is. Tested all wires for spark, they were good.

[toycar]

can you post your ignition and fuel tables for open loop?

what are all of your tables called in your tuning software? low speed one of them? if so, can you post that too?

I'm wondering if you don't have a vac setting configured incorrectly in the tune that is throwing offor your ignition timing values.

have you considered taking it into the tuner for a couple hours and seeing what they come up with? I bet the tuner that is familiar with your software will zero in on this quickly.

[Raf99]

Ya, we have to keep in mind that this setup worked fine for over a year. My tuner did all the work and he did an amazing job as it had no issues for over a year! So its not something that is improperly configured in Hondata, but more something on the car that is failing (sensor, leak, O2, etc.). I know if I took it to him he will be able to fix this no problem!! I didn't take it there yet because broken = needs parts. Needs parts = money. So I thought I'd see if I could troubleshoot it myself before I take it to him. And if he can't figure it out he'll want to start throwing parts at it which also = more $$$.

I was going to take it to him next month.

[toycar]

Ya, we have to keep in mind that this setup worked fine for over a year. My tuner did all the work and he did an amazing job as it had no issues for over a year! So its not something that is improperly configured in Hondata, but more something on the car that is failing (sensor, leak, O2, etc.). I know if I took it to him he will be able to fix this no problem!! I didn't take it there yet because broken = needs parts. Needs parts = money. So I thought I'd see if I could troubleshoot it myself before I take it to him. And if he can't figure it out he'll want to start throwing parts at it which also = more $$$.

I was going to take it to him next month.

oh well that helps a bunch. I didn't realize through this (guess I didn't connect the dots) that this was a new problem. all of this came up after the rewire jobby?

[Raf99]

oh well that helps a bunch. I didn't realize through this (guess I didn't connect the dots) that this was a new problem. all of this came up after the rewire jobby?

Unfortunately yes. But putting the wire job back to the original did not solve the problem. And all volts/amps seem fine with the car. So it was just a coincidence.

[Raf99]

Well if you think of anything else to try please let me know. I'm up for trying anything as long as it does not damage the engine. May PM ya ToyCar see if you can help.

[Raf99]

For anyone reading. I took another look online and did finally find someone with the same issue where they were running lean when the engine was warm leading to stalling conditions at stop signs, etc.The culprit was the engine coolant temp. sensor. Looking into this on my car..

Cold and Warm conditions shown in the manual. US = my readings.
And in a fully cold state at 80F my sensor read 1700ohms.


I've never understood why the manual states the ohms should lower as the temp goes higher, and then state 180F = 280ohm & 200F = 350ohm which is the opposite.

But.... either way my ECT Sensor is is not reading what it should be. I'm going to replace it.

[toycar]

[/quote]

my guess:

1.)either ground issue with temp sensure on thermostat housing
2.)bad throttle tip in configuration
3.) tps needs calibrated
4.) idle position sensor needs replaced/recalibratedoplar

it's normal for the car to go rich when you let off gas. you stop flow of air faster than ecumenical stops flow of fuel. going lean, has to have something to do with a readout from a sensor.[/QUOTE]



#1 on my suggestion list. should've been more clear; either ground or issue with temp sensor on thermostat housing


this will fix it I bet

[Raf99]

my guess:

1.)either ground issue with temp sensure on thermostat housing
2.)bad throttle tip in configuration
3.) tps needs calibrated
4.) idle position sensor needs replaced/recalibratedoplar

it's normal for the car to go rich when you let off gas. you stop flow of air faster than ecumenical stops flow of fuel. going lean, has to have something to do with a readout from a sensor.[/QUOTE]



#1 on my suggestion list. should've been more clear; either ground or issue with temp sensor on thermostat housing


this will fix it I bet[/QUOTE]


I will check these items out. But for now I am replacing the engine coolant temp. sensor. The test i did was with the sensor out of the car in a boiling pan of hot water, so I know it's not working properly.
- All grounds were checked
- If TPS was off we would see if off during all modes (yet car only shows issues when hot)
- Same with Idle Position Sensor (wait........ where is this?)

Still good points and I will check it out. I hear you on the lean when letting off the gas, but it's to the point now where it stays lean and the car tries to stall. I wish it would just hurry up and fully break. At least then I would know what part it was.

[dbsharp]

Ive seen tps cause havoc. its also good to properly set up idle screw and tb plate. go ahead and make sure the basics are squared away.

[Raf99]

Ive seen tps cause havoc. its also good to properly set up idle screw and tb plate. go ahead and make sure the basics are squared away.

Thanks!

[Raf99]

Well firstly, ToyCar, I want to thank you for your help.
Secondly, I think I fixed the car!!

Got a new engine temperature sensor for the car and the readings when testing it in a boiling pan of water were not too far off from the old one but they were still off.

Cold:
Old - 1700 ohms
New - 1900 ohm

Hot:
Old - 180 ohms
New - 160 ohms


But I took the car for a drive and twice it did the classic symptom but as the car drove and got hotter, it didn't do it at all! When you come to a stop sign:
- rpms recover instantly
- car goes lean but for only 1-2 seconds and quickly recovers
- A/F doesn't stay lean, and goes back to normal

And the more I drove the car and the more I tested it the better it got! Quick recoveries! Tried with all accessories on, while jamming on the brakes, etc. No issues!

So fingers crossed! Now I feel like I can finally get back to work on her

(edit)
On a side note. Assuming it was the ECT Sensor, I still have no idea of the relationship between the car catching the idle at a stop sign and why this sensor would affect the car for that scenario. I do know as the car got hotter the issue got worse.