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Old 07-21-2011, 10:19 AM   #21
lilg4mdalbc
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lilg4mdalbc may have said something they shouldn't have...
for the rattling i used the following sticky pads under my licence plate:

http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...ing-Squares-1/

my license plate doesn't rattle at all. for the rest of it, usually what rattles is the rear deck, especially the center brake light, and speaker boxes or mounts, whatever they are called. what i did was put cushion between all of that, i used this foam type stuff i found laying around my house. most people recommend dynomat, but it doesn't work for everyone, and it might be expensive depending on how much you need. it just really depends on your car.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:08 PM   #22
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That's just the fuse size too. I'd be more concerned about the wire being true to the gauge. Knu wire is a bit oversized. The finer strands make it look bigger than what it is too. The jacket is nice and flexible. With that being said, I've only had a small piece of knu wire before I changed out to something bigger and it was great.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:26 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
That's just the fuse size too. I'd be more concerned about the wire being true to the gauge. Knu wire is a bit oversized. The finer strands make it look bigger than what it is too. The jacket is nice and flexible. With that being said, I've only had a small piece of knu wire before I changed out to something bigger and it was great.


wish i still had the pictures i took a couple years ago. I put up the 4ga knukonceptz cable that i ran on my last 2 systems up next to the rockford wire that costs 30-40% more, and up against the mid line planet audio kits they sell for 40$ at my buddy's shop, and the difference between the knu /rockford cable and the planet audio cable is pretty big. I'm imagining just from looking at the pics that the planet audio cable is about the same as the audiobahn cable.

its worked very well for all the systems i've had, as well as friends that have used it on my recommendation.
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:41 PM   #24
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Keep in mind that length is a factor here as well.* If you're doing a long run (>20 feet), you should use one size larger.* It doesn't hurt to use a wire size that's larger than necessary, but it will usually cost more and can be more difficult to install.

<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>Power Wire:</span>

10 gauge: ~35 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <350 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <250 watts

8 gauge: ~55 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <550 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <400 watts

6 gauge: ~87 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <875 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <625 watts

4 gauge: ~140 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <1400 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <1000 watts

2 gauge: ~220 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <2200 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <1500 watts

1/0 gauge: ~350 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <3500 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <2500 watts

2/0 gauge: ~440 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <4400 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <3000 watts

4/0 gauge: ~700 amperes
Class D (~70% efficiency) - <7000 watts
Class A/B (~50% efficiency) - <5000 watts

<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>Speaker wire:</span>

22 gauge: ~2.2 amperes
8 ohms - <36 watts
6 ohms - <27 watts
4 ohms - <18 watts
3 ohms - <13.5 watts
2 ohms - <9 watts
1 ohm - <4.5 watts

20 gauge: ~3.4 amperes
8 ohms - <96 watts
6 ohms - <72 watts
4 ohms - <48 watts
3 ohms - <36 watts
2 ohms - <24 watts
1 ohm - <12 watts

18 gauge: ~5.5 amperes
8 ohms - <240 watts
6 ohms - <180 watts
4 ohms - <120 watts
3 ohms - <90 watts
2 ohms - <60 watts
1 ohm - <30 watts

16 gauge: ~8.7 amperes
8 ohms - <600 watts
6 ohms - <450 watts
4 ohms - <300 watts
3 ohms - <225 watts
2 ohms - <150 watts
1 ohm - <75 watts

14 gauge: ~13.7 amperes
8 ohms - <1500 watts
6 ohms - <1125 watts
4 ohms - <750 watts
3 ohms - <563 watts
2 ohms - <375 watts
1 ohm - <188 watts

12 gauge: ~21.8 amperes
8 ohms - <3800 watts
6 ohms - <2850 watts
4 ohms - <1900 watts
3 ohms - <1425 watts
2 ohms - <950 watts
1 ohm - <475 watts

10 gauge: ~34.6 amperes
8 ohms - <9600 watts
6 ohms - <7200 watts
4 ohms - <4800 watts
3 ohms - <3600 watts
2 ohms - <2400 watts
1 ohm - <1200 watts

8 gauge: ~55 amperes
8 ohms - <24000 watts
6 ohms - <18000 watts
4 ohms - <12000 watts
3 ohms - <9000 watts
2 ohms - <6000 watts
1 ohm - <3000 watts

<span style='font-size:27pt;line-height:100%'>Maximum Fuse Size </span>

00 awg* 400 amps
0 awg* 325 amps
1 awg* 250 amps
2 awg* 200 amps
4 awg* 125 amps
6 awg* 80 amps
8 awg* 50 amps
10 awg* 30 amps
12 awg* 20 amps
14 awg* 15 amps
16 awg* 7.5 amps

These are the recommended maximum fuse ratings for the corresponding wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be perfectly safe.

Hope this makes Since....
^^^^this is off of smd so i dont take any credit for it i just thought it would help your disscussion.....
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:39 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by SPLCB7 View Post
Keep in mind that length is a factor here as well.* If you're doing a long run (>20 feet), you should use one size larger.* It doesn't hurt to use a wire size that's larger than necessary, but it will usually cost more and can be more difficult to install.

16 gauge: ~8.7 amperes
8 ohms - <600 watts
6 ohms - <450 watts
4 ohms - <300 watts
3 ohms - <225 watts
2 ohms - <150 watts
1 ohm - <75 watts

12 gauge: ~21.8 amperes
8 ohms - <3800 watts
6 ohms - <2850 watts
4 ohms - <1900 watts
3 ohms - <1425 watts
2 ohms - <950 watts
1 ohm - <475 watts

00 awg* 400 amps
0 awg* 325 amps
1 awg* 250 amps
2 awg* 200 amps
4 awg* 125 amps
6 awg* 80 amps
8 awg* 50 amps
10 awg* 30 amps
12 awg* 20 amps
14 awg* 15 amps
16 awg* 7.5 amps

These are the recommended maximum fuse ratings for the corresponding wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be perfectly safe.

Hope this makes Since....
^^^^this is off of smd so i dont take any credit for it i just thought it would help your disscussion.....
That's a pretty good general guide to wire sizing. Definitly a great general reference.

As far as length, I'm not sure why you would want to run more than 20ft of cable. I havnt done a run in the accord yet because the car already has cable run, but i'm imagining it shoudnt take more than 12-15' of cable to get into the trunk?

the speaker wire listings you listed is another good reason to run with the knu kit, which comes with 12 vs 16awg speaker wire.

the fuse listing is a good general guide too, but you can run with the manufacturer's specifications over the general guide on the fuse size. and the knu kit comes with a 120A fuse with the ability to upgrade to a 150 in the future. should be well within spec for a 700w amp
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:41 PM   #26
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The biggest thing you have to remeber is you never wanna put an bigger amp fuse becuse youll blow your amp the fuse is there to keep two much currnt from going through your amp so save your self some money and dont go trying to run an bigger fuse.....
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:03 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by SPLCB7 View Post
The biggest thing you have to remeber is you never wanna put an bigger amp fuse becuse youll blow your amp the fuse is there to keep two much currnt from going through your amp so save your self some money and dont go trying to run an bigger fuse.....
It's there for the wire too. So if your amp(s) pull more than what the wire is rated for then you fuse according to the wire. Pick the smaller value.
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:09 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by SPLCB7 View Post
The biggest thing you have to remeber is you never wanna put an bigger amp fuse becuse youll blow your amp the fuse is there to keep two much currnt from going through your amp so save your self some money and dont go trying to run an bigger fuse.....
I may be reading it wrong but it sounds like you're saying that a bigger in-line fuse will blow your amp

you wont blow your amp if you're running a bigger fuse on cable inline fuse. the fuses on the side of your amp are what keep the amp from blowing. the fuse in line with the power cable is to keep the amp from pulling more power through the wire than what it is rated for, which keeps it from melting, starting fires, etc.

if you have 2 35A fuses on the side of the amp, which that amp will likely have, then right you dont put bigger fuses in there. but having 2 35A fuses on the amp and a 150A fuse on the wire shouldnt hurt anything if the wire is rated for 150A
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Old 07-24-2011, 05:02 PM   #29
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Ive blown amps without blowing the fuses on the amp lol i only speak from experiance......it depends on the amp...the only time ive ever blown the fuse on an amp its self was when i was running 1ohm on an amp not 1 ohm stable...
id rather blow an fuse before the amp then let the amp blow fuses i dont and wouldnt ever recomend it its your gear though do as you please
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:22 PM   #30
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Ive blown amps without blowing the fuses on the amp lol i only speak from experiance......it depends on the amp...the only time ive ever blown the fuse on an amp its self was when i was running 1ohm on an amp not 1 ohm stable...
id rather blow an fuse before the amp then let the amp blow fuses i dont and wouldnt ever recomend it its your gear though do as you please
i hear ya, just in the 8 years that i've done car audio ive always oversized my cable to the amps i was running and have always had my in line fuses set up for cable specs. never blown an amp. its not a bad idea though
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:52 PM   #31
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I'm with splcb7...I prefer to undersize my fuse one size below the fusing on my amp. $5 fuses are better than a blown amp.
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