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Old 06-25-2015, 05:16 PM   #21
Grumpys93
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Looking good, as for the manual rack conversion you said you noticed the DIY is missing something that eliminates the excessive play. Do you plan to elaborate on this? Also what type of grease are you using to lube up the rack? I am planning on doing the full conversion soon and would like to eliminate this as well. Thanks and glad to see another fellow F22B
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Old 06-25-2015, 05:51 PM   #22
Rilas
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Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Looking good, as for the manual rack conversion you said you noticed the DIY is missing something that eliminates the excessive play. Do you plan to elaborate on this? Also what type of grease are you using to lube up the rack? I am planning on doing the full conversion soon and would like to eliminate this as well. Thanks and glad to see another fellow F22B
Thanks Grumpy!

I do plan to elaborate, but the piece I need to add back in to get rid of the excessive play is in my other garage 25 miles away. I'm headed up there this weekend to pickup that and my CL sway bar as well as a few other things I need to get this Accord wrapped up. Once I have the piece in hand I'll post up some more pictures to explain what the DIY is missing. I'm really excited to see how this F22B will run. As far as the grease I haven't totally decided what I'm going to use quite yet. I'll post that up as well once I decide on something.

Last edited by Rilas; 06-25-2015 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 06-25-2015, 06:01 PM   #23
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Looking good man!
Thanks again khal! Yet again glad to see that you got yours all repaired from kissing another bumper.
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:23 AM   #24
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Well I got some more done last night. Just cleaning up some odds and ends. Although I did spend about an hour scrubbing on the underside of the rear subframe. There is only a little bit left up under there. No more than a half hours worth of work. Also I managed to get the center beam installed.

OBDII to OBDI Distributor Harness 1


OBDII to OBDI Distributor Harness 2


OBDII to OBDI Distributor Harness 3


Poor $2 Walmart Dish Brush 1


Poor $2 Walmart Dish Brush 2


Foglight Harness 1


Foglight Harness 2


Foglight Harness 3


Foglight Harness 4


Foglight Harness Ground


Does this look like a good place to ground the foglight harness, or should I mount it to the main body? This was the cleanest looking I could come up with for the harness but I'm not opposed to changing it. Function over form imo.
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:59 PM   #25
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Well during the blazing hot weekend here. 101* F yesterday and 104* F today. In the garage it was only about 84* F which is still too warm for me. I actually managed to make some progress on Lola.

Finished wiring the knock sensor to the ecw plug. I've had the wire in the cab for awhile. It is totally integrated into the engine wiring harness and body harness in the engine bay. I will try and get a picture of how I mounted the knock sensor. It's in the block plug where the block heater goes.

Cleaned up a few other items in the cabin. Got the e-brake lever centered for the JDM Center Console w/ Armest.

Grumpys93 here are the requested pictures. Showing what to keep when removing valves from the valve body.

Here are the required parts to keep if you don't want excessive play in your steering wheel when converting to manual rack.


Valve not being removed. This valve has a slot in it which holds a pin on the bottom of the shaft with the gear on it. Here you can see the hole the pin sits in with the valve installed. I'm sorry for the shadow I took about 10 pictures and adjust lights but this is the best I got. Hopefully you can see what I'm trying to show here.


Valve installed in Valve Body with Pins and Spings 1 (In the picture it is installed upside down I apologize.)


Valve installed in Valve Body with Pins and Spings 2 (In the picture it is installed upside down I apologize.)


Pin on bottom of shaft matching up to the hole that is rests in. See how large the hole is in comparison to the pin? If you remove the valve that is pictured above that is how much play is left in the wheel. The pin has to move all the way across the hole and hit the far side before the wheels begin to turn. By leaving the valve in all play is removed.


Grease used for manual rack conversion


Manual Rack Completed 1


Manual Rack Completed 2


CyborgGT here are pictures of the CL Sway Bar by the Accord's. Also following are pictures with wrench's on them, granted it's 1mm bigger than my wrench so they are 25mm thick, both of them.


Comparison of Hollow Tube vs Solid Ends


CL Sway Bar Thickness


Accord Sway Bar Thickness


If you guys want I can take pictures with my dial caliper. I don't know why I didn't think of using it while I had my camera handy. I'm sure I managed a bit more this weekend but that's the majority of what I can remember.
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Old 06-28-2015, 11:25 PM   #26
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damn, super duper clean with a fine attention to detail. love the build. what method are you using to clean everything?
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:33 AM   #27
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Thanks for getting back with the sway bar comparison. ST's a bit thicker at 27mm.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:04 AM   #28
Rilas
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damn, super duper clean with a fine attention to detail. love the build. what method are you using to clean everything?
To clean everything I'm just using some simple green, a scraper, dish brush, Scott's Blue Shop Towels, small flat blade screw driver, and a ton of elbow grease!

Quote:
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Thanks for getting back with the sway bar comparison. ST's a bit thicker at 27mm.
I knew the ST would be thicker but I picked this sway bar up about 6 months ago and it's been sitting on a shelf since, only paid $7 which is hard to beat. Since it's solid I figured it would be a little bit of an upgrade over the hollow one. It should pair nicely with the Progress rear sway bar I plan on picking up in a month or two.

Didn't get my steering parts ordered last week but I just put in my order for them this morning. I know they aren't the greatest quality but, they are all getting moved over to the sedan to be sold, in the near future. I didn't want to get the cheapest stuff possible because I might be riding around on it for a few months myself.


Also picked up OEM lower ball joints from the Honda dealer so they are covered even though they aren't listed. I didn't forget!
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:20 PM   #29
Grumpys93
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thanks for the pictures and insight I should start working on my conversion some time next week, if I can find the time.
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:33 PM   #30
Rilas
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thanks for the pictures and insight I should start working on my conversion some time next week, if I can find the time.
Your welcome Grumpys93. It really doesn't take much time to disassemble it, grease and reassemble. Maybe 2 hours tops if you have to clean the entire rack as well. I'm trying to give back to the community finally after using it to learn just about everything possible about my car over the last 5 years, and fix almost every problem I've had with the car.

Thank you guys for being such a great community!
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Old 06-30-2015, 04:58 AM   #31
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Awesome work on the harness for both the dizzy and the fog lights!
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:57 PM   #32
Rilas
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Didn't actually do anything the last 2 nights, but I did get a goodie from USPS today.

1993 SE Sedan Passenger Airbag 1


1993 SE Sedan Passenger Airbag 2


1993 SE Sedan Passenger Airbag 3


Junkyard Cover 1


Junkyard Cover 2 (Airbag must have been gone for a long time to make this sag. Also it doesn't have the metal supports in it still like the new one does.)


Junkyard Cover 3


I stumbled across the airbag on eBay and debated it for about a week. I purchased it for $150 with shipping. I don't feel I overpaid for this because retail from Honda is over $500 and of course it's discontinued. As well as only paying $23 for the entire dashboard and harness in it. I really don't want the airbag portion though. I really wanted the cover and the frame so I could make a storage compartment out of it. Possibly move my fusebox up into, but make it open on some hinges some how. I'm not sure if I will even attempt this though because it is an explosive device.

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Awesome work on the harness for both the dizzy and the fog lights!
Thanks! Takes a bit of time to try and make it all look good and be functional.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:54 AM   #33
sonikaccord
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I'll have to tackle that manual rack conversion and mod one day. It really does look simple.

Edit: are those springs already present in the valve body?
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Last edited by sonikaccord; 07-01-2015 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:46 AM   #34
Rilas
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Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
I'll have to tackle that manual rack conversion and mod one day. It really does look simple.

Edit: are those springs already present in the valve body?
They are present in the valve body already. These are the ones that you must keep in, to prevent excessive play. All of the other springs and valves get taken out. I think it's 2 more valves and 2-4 springs that come out.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:18 PM   #35
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Well after almost a week of no progress on the car, I managed to get a few things done. Got the rack and pinion ready to install in the car. Also found out that parts made in the USA and Japan are far superior to those made in Taiwan.

Moog Adjustable Upper Ball Joints 1 (Notice how the one on the right has much more steel in the body? Also it has a greasable zerk in the top of bolt, the one on the left doesn't. USA vs Taiwan.)


Moog Adjustable Upper Ball Joints 2 (Same exact part number. Quality part and shitty part.)


Beck/Arnley Tie Rods 1 (Notice how the one on the left in the picture is a better casting. Looks to be a better ball joint in it as well. Japan vs Taiwan.)


Beck/Arnley Tie Rods 2


Beck/Arnley Tie Rods 3


Steering Components


Assembled Rack with OEM Hardware (Clips and clamps not the zip ties the boots came with.)


I just don't understand how parts companies can do this crap. I mean the Taiwan and USA or Japan parts should have different part numbers. Not a total random mix of the two. Also from multiple companies so it seems they all do it. Just a heads up guys.
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Old 07-08-2015, 04:38 PM   #36
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^I completely agree with you, the garbage that they're putting out there should be illegal and it's a real stupid game all the time. I mean, Moog from rockauto doesn't equal the Moog from Napa for example. It's not right at all and I've tried to save $ and go aftermarket instead of Honda, and it has gotten me absolutely nowhere. Some of that trash lasts not even a year. So, I've made it a rule to not play their games and go Honda for balljoints especially. It also looks like your R tie rod end was made by Senkei-555. Thanks for posting that, very important stuff!
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:22 AM   #37
Rilas
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^I completely agree with you, the garbage that they're putting out there should be illegal and it's a real stupid game all the time. I mean, Moog from rockauto doesn't equal the Moog from Napa for example. It's not right at all and I've tried to save $ and go aftermarket instead of Honda, and it has gotten me absolutely nowhere. Some of that trash lasts not even a year. So, I've made it a rule to not play their games and go Honda for balljoints especially. It also looks like your R tie rod end was made by Senkei-555. Thanks for posting that, very important stuff!
Well as stated in a post above this setup is going to be sold with the sedan. After it gets swapped over. My sedan's current setup is OEM and SPC, I didn't cheap out there. But didn't want to spend $400-$500 on just tie rods and ball joints that are going to be sold in a few months. I agree it should be illegal to have low quality parts with the same parts numbers as higher quality parts.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:13 AM   #38
Rilas
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I put in more work last night, just nothing picture worthy.

-Rack and pinion installed
-Outer tie rods installed
-Brackets for sway bar cleaned as well as bushings
-Sway bar cleaned
-Trimmed rear subframe to fit sway bar (little bit left 15-20 minutes)
-Installed front brake lines (still need to bleed brakes)
-Hammered out locks on the axle nuts
-Installed upper control arms (done due to needing to remove the axles)
-Hooked up all remaining vacuum lines

Those are the bigger things I managed last night. I know I did some other small things here and there. Oh well it's all progress.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:28 AM   #39
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geeeez! Mad, mad props to you .. wow!

This is exactly how all of this should be done.. just amazes me the talent we have here, unreal!
And I thought we did a good job on my wagon .. phhht!
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:17 PM   #40
Rilas
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geeeez! Mad, mad props to you .. wow!

This is exactly how all of this should be done.. just amazes me the talent we have here, unreal!
And I thought we did a good job on my wagon .. phhht!
Thank you so much! I feel humbled at the praise.

Well I've had 2 other Accords to practice on ahead of this one, so this isn't my first rodeo doing all of this stuff. Although it was my first full wire tuck. I learned on the other Accords that it is worth the time to clean absolutely everything while the engine is out. It has saved so much time working on it afterwards not having to clean anything or myself after having worked on the car.

Also in life I will tell you guys do things right the first time regardless of the cost and it will save you TIME and MONEY in the long run. Thats why I'm taking my time and making sure things are done right the first time.
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