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Old 02-20-2017, 03:43 PM   #61
Crankshaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H311RA151N View Post
I bought a DEA front torque mount for this.

Bought an Alltrade 648827 valve adjustment tool. It's long overdue for a valve adjustment. And never having owned a valve adjustment tool I went ahead and picked one up being as it was only $13.00

Also going to do and oil change. Figured why not while I've got the time.

So... a gallon of Valvoline Conventional SAE 10W30.
Autozone had the Mobil 5000 for $2 a quart about 3 weeks ago, I have been using Valvoline lately but their oil seems way too thin compared to other oils
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:26 PM   #62
H311RA151N
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The valve lash tool, Valvoline 10w30 and front torque mount arrived.

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Old 02-24-2017, 06:57 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by H311RA151N View Post
The valve lash tool, Valvoline 10w30 and front torque mount arrived.

You ordered the oil too?
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Old 02-24-2017, 07:46 PM   #64
H311RA151N
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Yep, if you have Amazon prime you can find it cheaper than you can get it in the store. Delivered. In two days.

My GF has Amazon prime for their streaming service and I use it to buy stuff.
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:13 PM   #65
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Ahhhhh! I've got one more week on workmans comp! I know, I shouldn't be greedy. And, I'll admit I've been lazy quite a bit during my time off. Kinda taking it for granted.

I went to the doc today, along with my caseworker, not fun... at all. And it looks like I go back to work next Tuesday.

So... I've got a lot of work to do!

Valve lash needs set. Get to use my new tool! Kinda excited for that! I don't think the valve lash has ever been set.

Driver side tie rod end. Passenger side was replaced a month of so ago, now time for the driver side. I try to replace things in pairs.

Change the oil. Ought to compliment the valve lash adjustment. Should really quieten this thing down in regards to valve train noise. Gotta love fresh oil.

Front torque mount. The current OE one is really rough. So replacing this will make a big difference when shifting from reverse to drive.

I'm going to see about doing the rear brakes, if I get to it tomorrow.

Brake master cylinder. This if I get to the rear brakes.

And maybe a few other things like the fuel filter, tail light lens ect. Just depends on what I have time for.

So lots of work coming up on this thing tomorrow.

I don't like coming around and talking Fords and DSM's all the time. At least I'm still keeping it CB7 specific with this thing. Sometimes. Glad I can come here and post up my stuff. It's cool to be able to do so freely. I don't update any other forums I'm on. Only here. Good people here. Can't say that for other forums. I mean, some good people on others typically. But everyone here is good people. Everyone gets along, is cool with each other... that's cool.
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:45 PM   #66
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Glad you keep us updated on all your rides honestly. I always enjoy reading what your up to. Also glad you got some paid time off, sort of for free. Too bad it came about how it did. Even if you didn't keep up on the cb7 I think we'd all still be happy that you update about the Ford and DSM.
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Old 02-28-2017, 12:52 AM   #67
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Hey Rilas, thanks for dropping me a line! I know that there are a surprising amount of members (to me anyhow) that follow my MRT's. For that I try to keep it as entertaining as I can. Sometimes that's a struggle.

And thank you for the kind words, it's very cool of you! I must admit I really enjoyed the time off. I wish I would have made better use of some of it but hey, I still got quite a bit done. More than I would have otherwise.
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Old 02-28-2017, 03:56 PM   #68
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This dadgum thing!

It gave me a run for my money today. As I type my fingertips are kinda raw.

The fuel filter... it's OE or really old. One of the two. I'll cover this first since everything else went smooth.

I got the old fuel filter off. Wasn't too bad.



Once I got it off I realized how incredibly dirty it was.









I ended up having to put the old one back on... yeah I know, I blew the heck out of it first, because the OE Parts (that's a manufacturer name) fuel filter was a piece of junk. Threads were wrong. Simply wrong. And had paint in them. I fought it for a while, realized I wasn't going to get it tight enough to not leak then pulled it off. The old one went right on no problem. So, needless to say I'm about to order a Genuine Honda fuel filter in a few minutes.


Changed the oil. Old oil still had a bit of color, held it's viscosity pretty well.



Replaced the front torque mount. Thing was shot! Shifts like brand new now. Perfectly smooth just as it should.





And did a drain and fill on the transmission. Old fluid was a lot better this time. I'm surprised at the effectiveness of just a two quart drain and fill. And I did another one today. I think I'm done with drain and fills for a while.

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Old 02-28-2017, 07:56 PM   #69
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I found out that the old fuel filter, the one on it now, is a Fram. So, I bought another and it will be here Thursday. OEM was $30 but I couldn't get one here quickly.
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Old 03-02-2017, 07:53 PM   #70
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The Fram G6826 fuel filter arrived today. I will be installing it tomorrow. I'm quite sure this will make an improvement in fuel filtration. The current fuel filter is just filthy.



Also, working on things at my desk, where I'm sitting now, is why I buy cheap desks. Never more than $100. I always scratch them up as can be seen. I get my good out of them, that's for sure!
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Old 03-03-2017, 06:11 AM   #71
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Looks like I will be doing another drain and fill on the automatic transmission.

I placed a bid on three quarts of old Z1 ATF a few days back. Just moments ago I was woke up by a notifacation stating the bidding was about to end. I placed one more bid of $9.00 and won the listing.

So, for $9.00 + $11.96 shipping $20.96 total, I got three quarts of Z1 coming. Which is $10 cheaper than 3 quarts of DW1 go for.

DW1 and Z1 being compatible I'm not worried about mixing. I've got it mixing in there already.

So, one more drain and fill. It should be really good to go now.
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:18 AM   #72
Rilas
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The only downside to the Z1 or ZF1 is that is has a ton of friction modifiers in it to make the shifts smoother. This is what leads to burning out the clutch packs. This is why the newer v6 transmissions had so many failures. Due to too much slippage on shifts wearing the clutch's down prematurely. Just an FYI more than anything. There really was a reason Honda had to redesign it's auto transmission fluid.
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Old 03-03-2017, 08:16 AM   #73
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I know there was a lot of skepticism during the switch over from Z1 to DW1. What I've read is just as you stated.

Something I learned with TH350/400's 700R4's etc is that firmer shifts are easier on the clutches, just as you stated as it reduces slippage. Same thing applies here, I just learned about it on older and different automatic transmissions.

Something else I read on bobs the oil guy is that a blend of Z1 and DW1 is optimal for automatic transmissions originally designed to utilize Z1. Not that I think it would make any difference in this case.
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Old 03-03-2017, 01:42 PM   #74
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I too enjoy reading and following all your build threads. This site isn't as active as it was 5 years ago. So it is nice to still see builds being done.
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Old 03-04-2017, 10:32 AM   #75
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When I drain any honda tranny, whether it's auto or manual, I try to get as much of the old fluid out as possible. I will jack up only the passenger side corner, use a very shallow drain pan and almost let the rotor dust shield touch the ground. That way the tranny has a fairly aggressive downward pitch. Granted this was on a 95 Odyssey with the same size auto tranny, I was able to drain out a full 3 quarts. I realize the CB suspension height sits lower so the pitch might be alittle less but I think it'd be possible to do. The more pitch the better
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Old 03-05-2017, 12:09 AM   #76
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Quote:
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I too enjoy reading and following all your build threads. This site isn't as active as it was 5 years ago. So it is nice to still see builds being done.
That's very cool, it's nice to see so many of you enjoying them! Whether I'm punching keys or rattling my jaw I enjoy either just the same. So needless to say I'm having fun doing it. This forum is the only place I feel at home. Even if I sold my CB7 I'd still come here to share my other rides and hang out. Thanks for dropping me a line!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Granite CB7 View Post
When I drain any honda tranny, whether it's auto or manual, I try to get as much of the old fluid out as possible. I will jack up only the passenger side corner, use a very shallow drain pan and almost let the rotor dust shield touch the ground. That way the tranny has a fairly aggressive downward pitch. Granted this was on a 95 Odyssey with the same size auto tranny, I was able to drain out a full 3 quarts. I realize the CB suspension height sits lower so the pitch might be alittle less but I think it'd be possible to do. The more pitch the better
My driveway is likely what I've got going against me then. I figured the angle was why I wasn't getting as much as everyone else. If I turned my car around to do the drain and fill I'd likely get about as much as you are then. I'll try that next time and find out. I try to pull my car close to the garage door opening when it's cold but now that it's warming up that won't be an issue.

It would be cool to get three quarts out so I can put all three quarts of the Z1 in.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:57 PM   #77
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I noticed the power steering fluid was dark and smelled a little "used" shall we say.

I figured one day I will pull the pump off and rebuild it. While doing that I will replace the fluid.

I got this rebuild kit for $10 shipped. I jumped on it.




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Old 04-08-2017, 02:17 PM   #78
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LeBra hood bra.

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Old 04-09-2017, 11:15 PM   #79
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Update.

Front tires are about bald. Due to the alignment, still haven't replaced the broken spring on the passenger side or driver side outer tie rod end.

Iowa roads are so bad, thinking about not replacing the front struts and just buying a spring compressor replacing the passenger side spring.

Still leaking fuel. It's gotten a bit worse. Need to address this at some point but between working all the time and not having any money it's difficult.

The cheapo eBay distributor I got about 3 or 4 months ago is shot. Distributor seal again, so it's smelling like burnt oil and soaking the top of the transmission again. Thankfully I still have the old dizzy and I have a new genuine distributor seal as well. I will be rebuilding the old one this week. Probably take it to work and do it there when I'm slow Thursday or Friday. Perks of my job.

So...

Buy spring compressor.
Replace passenger side spring with used part.
Replace driver side outer tie rod. Have the part.
Purchase front tires. Matching the rear.
Take to alignment shop.

And as for the fuel leak I'm going to take it to a shop and have it diagnosed. I don't feel like messing with it.


All for a junk car that the back end is about rusted off of!
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:09 PM   #80
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Installed the new Moog driver side outer tie rod end today. Busted it out in under 15 mins as it went smoothly for a 25 year old part.


Ordered a set of front strut assemblies. Monroe 181875 from Rock Auto. Hopefully they arrive when they said they would. We will see.


I'm getting a pair of new tires for the front tomorrow. Likely ordering them. Will have them installed after the new front strut assemblies and the alignment thereafter.


Moog driver side tie rod end installed.

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