Replacing Main Fuel Line from Pump to Frame Rail

[Fleetw00d]

Anyone know if the main fuel supply line end on the top of the fuel tank/pump can be reached/removed by dropping the rear cross member without dropping the tank some? One of my prodigal sons (93 EX sedan - Jade) is back (friend of mine wound up with it after someone else purchased it from me). The rear end of the main supply line is rusted so badly that it is leaking; the line from the frame rail to the tank looks really bad as well. I'd like to avoid dropping the tank for fear of the strap bolts being seized in the brackets and/or stressing the other lines. I pulled one from a JY car last week by dropping the tank a few inches, but I didn't need to be careful with the other parts. I've fashioned a repair section for the main line forward by using an Accord fitting nut on a 5/16" (I think) fuel line with compression fittings.

Just trying to get some input - I suppose I'll be trying it one way or another tomorrow. Another DIY possibility.

Off topic: Looking for a place to reverse engineer the plastic guide at the top of the rear window regulators to be able to repair the assemblies.

[Grumpys93]

If I recall I do not think there is a way to access the nut without dropping the tank some. Unless you were to create an access panel in the trunk. I’ll look at my pics I took when I dropped my tank and see if I can tell or not.

[Raf99]

If you are doing the line from the frame rail to the tank then drop the tank. You'll thank yourself as it's too difficult to get up there to turn wrenches, cut pipe, etc. I'd spray the tank strap bolts with WD-40 etc hours before you start. Soak them! If the bolts are stuck you'll have to drop the rear sub frame.

If you are replacing the whole line you'll need the tank down, car up in the air. The lines run under the emergency brake lines and other components so you'll need the room.

[Grumpys93]

If you are doing the line from the frame rail to the tank then drop the tank. You'll thank yourself as it's too difficult to get up there to turn wrenches, cut pipe, etc. I'd spray the tank strap bolts with WD-40 etc hours before you start. Soak them! If the bolts are stuck you'll have to drop the rear sub frame.

If you are replacing the whole line you'll need the tank down, car up in the air. The lines run under the emergency brake lines and other components so you'll need the room.

Yep I looked at my pics and just under the car and I agree with Raf on this. Drop the tank.

[Fleetw00d]

I wound up dropping the sub frame (just removed the four bolts, let it hang from the suspension) and just the rear of the tank to get access to the main supply line bolt on top of the pump. Dropping the sub frame allowed me to get penetrating oil on the strap bolts so they managed to come out without seizing or having the nut separate from the bracket.

Put the tank back up last night, will put the sub frame back up tonight, then try to patch the line from rail headed toward the front.

10:50 PM - Put the sub frame back up and managed to patch the line. Prebent a repair section back to the first long straight section before it drops under the body; attached it with compression fittings. Still leaked at the repair line to fitting on the frame rail; tightened that nut some more - no leaks. Had to stop for rain and darkness; will try to undercoat or something to help prevent rust, then put clamps back in place.

Aug. 9: Note for next time, don't install the compression fitting close to one of the gang line clamps; the fitting separates the lines a little more than will easily snap back into the plastic clamp assembly. All back together.

The filler neck looked real bad while I was under there; I'll try to pick up a better one tomorrow and get it installed. Charged AC.