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Old 12-07-2018, 05:19 PM   #21
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Good point. It’s smart to replace the rear main seal whenever you do the clutch. Sadly, that means the clutch assembly will have to come off after all.
If that seal is leaking, that’s serious. If the rear main fails completely, it’s like pulling the plug in your bathtub. You’ll be lucky if you realize you lost all your oil and shut it down before the engine eats itself. Most aren’t that lucky.
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:17 AM   #22
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I Hate to keep bothering you guys with simplistic questions but.
Underneath the clutch pedal where that rod goes through and to the master cylinder (I think?) it drips a little bit of fluid INTO the car through that seal. Would this be a cause of anything/cause anything?
Again I am taking the trans out Christmas break down here but things I can even look at might help out. Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:36 AM   #23
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Your master cylinder for the clutch needs to be replaced. The internal seals have failed and it's starting to leak. Eventually it will leave you with a non functional pedal.
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:15 PM   #24
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Exactly that.
Also, the hydraulic fluid in the clutch system is highly corrosive, so clean everything that it touched thoroughly. Otherwise, you could end up with bare metal just begging for rust!
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:51 AM   #25
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Question

The fluid is just coming through that 'boot' on the interior.
Also. If my clutch is okay after 5th and about of mile or two of straight roads without stopping. However. I figured out my thermostat is stuck in the full open (first starts go 1k-2k-1k-2k-1k etc.) The old cooling fan melted through and got stuck on the shroud of it. I am going to replace the thermostat tomorrow and check the cooling fan fuse today.
What i'm getting at is would the cooling fan never being on (A/C is always off unless cars off and on acc to help cool it down after awhile), could this be another factor? especially since it gets worse if I sit at lights? I read something about if you stay still it just keeps the heat around it and i cant even tell if I ever get too hot on the car at all due to incorrect temp readings.

1. Would cooling fan never on be a POSSIBLE Cause (clutch point lower helps it for longer)
2. What else would you guys recommend that i check out?
Thanks again everyone for helping me out!
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:57 AM   #26
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The fluid coming through the boot of the master cylinder indicates the internal seals have failed, and it needs to be replaced. Eventually it's going to fully fail, and your clutch pedal will not move the pressure plate.

The clutch in our cars goes from the pedal, which actuates the master cylinder. The master cylinder pushes brake fluid to the slave cylinder, which then extends and pushes on the arm which actuates the fingers on the pressure plate releasing the clutch from being clamped to the flywheel.

The failed fan and or thermostat are their own separate issues and should be taken care of as well.
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:08 AM   #27
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The failed fan and or thermostat are their own separate issues and should be taken care of as well.
I was referring to the trans getting hot causing a slip as it happens when i drive for awhile, sit at long lights or the car just isn't moving. Getting hot because there's nothing cooling it
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:39 AM   #28
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The only place the slipping can occur is between the clutch disk and the flywheel itself. Of course the transmission will get warm or hot after enough time. It is bolted to the engine which is having explosions occur inside of it generating massive heat. The transmission is bolted to the engine block and acts as a sort of heat sink, so it will eventually get warm. Also inside of the transmission you have metal on metal friction generating heat as the gears are working together.

Your cooling system only works on the engine, so as long as you aren't seeing it over heat you have nothing to worry about.
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:46 AM   #29
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Your cooling system only works on the engine, so as long as you aren't seeing it over heat you have nothing to worry about.
That's the thing. My thermostat doesn't work so i can't ever tell where its at so i cant ever figure that out. Just figured it might help the trans out because it sits kinda in the middle of the two. Thanks!
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:19 AM   #30
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Does the temperature gauge on the cluster not work?
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Old 12-14-2018, 01:54 PM   #31
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Does the temperature gauge on the cluster not work?
It itself works. The thermostat inside the engine area (idk how else to describe it) from what i read on another forum is stuck open. (first starts again do 1k-2k-1k-2k for 5-10 minutes or until its been driven.)

Update: About a month ago when i did my cooling fan replacement (old was literally thrown through the spinning rod and melted), i never replaced the fuse. replaced it. let car run and watched them kick on. On my way home from autozone didnt put the fuse in to test. clutch started slipping. let car sit (where it would normally get hotter when on) and they turned on. took it around the block and all seems okay.. Until the next day
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Old 12-14-2018, 03:52 PM   #32
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You might just have a coolant leak somewhere. Check or replace all of your
rubber hoses for the coolant system. Have you ever checked on the FITV?
That is usually a culprit for the up & down hunting idle.
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:39 PM   #33
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You might just have a coolant leak somewhere. Check or replace all of your
rubber hoses for the coolant system. Have you ever checked on the FITV?
That is usually a culprit for the up & down hunting idle.
The Coolant line DIRECTLY above trans looks like its not seated all the way/ stretched so I'm wondering if that might be the fluidAutoZone here i come
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Old 12-21-2018, 12:43 PM   #34
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Thumbs up Update: Again!

This time that I am replying to this thread it is with some good news, for once!
I checked the fuse for the melted cooling fan and sure enough it quite well blew up and scarred the inside of the plastic. Replaced that 15a and let the car run do its thing idling (didn't drive it, usually sitting still will cause the clutch to slip) and then took it around. To my own amazement, it didn't slip once, and still hasn't. It's been ~5 days since I did this and I've taken the car 40 minutes on the highway with no issues. Glad that my clutch doesn't slip but I am going to still eventually take it apart to do the T/O and the M/S.
I really appreciate everyone's input to helping someone who doesn't know anything about this out! Thank you!
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Old 12-21-2018, 03:03 PM   #35
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Good. But, did you do anything to fix your slipping of the clutch?
Things usually do not go away on their own...for too long.
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:46 PM   #36
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Yeah, Iíve never heard of a clutch that magically stopped slipping. Do the whole thing if youíre removing the transmission. If you had dookie leaking onto the clutch, itís contaminated & is going to need replacement regardless. You should plan on doing anything that comes off while doing the clutch too. Axles, tie rods, ball joints, output shaft seals, etc.

Thereís a reason everybody says to do everything involved at the same time. Itís most certainly not for their health.
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