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Old 12-23-2016, 02:01 AM   #61
Jarrett
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A standard rear mount, or even an aftermarket equivalent, might be the best method for the subframe in this instance. A custom bracket would then be needed to position the engine on that mount which could factor in a shorter length (assuming we all agree it needs to be further back in the bay to accommodate an ideal axle angle) and horizontal positioning.
































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Last edited by Jarrett; 12-23-2016 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:17 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
A standard rear mount, or even an aftermarket equivalent, might be the best method for the subframe in this instance. A custom bracket would then be needed to position the engine on that mount which could factor in a shorter length (assuming we all agree it needs to be further back in the bay to accommodate an ideal axle angle) and horizontal positioning.
Engine position will likely be pushed back, but how far will be determined once the engine is in the car. I do want to find a 3.0CL again, since I think it's rear engine mount will be the best choice besides maybe the Innvoative Prelude mount.

I just did a junkyard run, and the 7th gen Accord might have a good passenger side engine mount option, especially since they're becoming really common now. If someone wanted to do a J30a4 swap instead, those are really REALLY common to find now. A type-s engine is getting difficult to find in the junkyard. Also, I am starting to see 2005 Acura RL's more often now, so the J35a8 swap is looking like it might be a good option. Used '07-'08 Type-S transmissions aren't common but are available online. Just need to find one when it first comes in, then I can grab the brake calipers too.
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Old 01-08-2017, 12:17 AM   #63
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snag those calipers off the rl man! those are worth some money.
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Old 01-08-2017, 01:10 AM   #64
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They sell for around $200. They're nearly everywhere.
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My for sale thread with some pretty good buys in it.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=186737

2nd 1993 Accord EX frost white coupe
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=205292
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:42 PM   #65
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This is what Alex had to clearance off of his subframe to get the J-series differential housing to clear. I imagine it would be much the same for the CB Accord as it was for his CD.





For anyone wanting to check out his whole build thread, it's here.
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My for sale thread with some pretty good buys in it.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=186737

2nd 1993 Accord EX frost white coupe
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=205292
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:33 AM   #66
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snag those calipers off the rl man! those are worth some money.
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They sell for around $200. They're nearly everywhere.
Trust me, I wanted to snag them just to put on my car Unfortunately, they were gone already.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
This is what Alex had to clearance off of his subframe to get the J-series differential housing to clear. I imagine it would be much the same for the CB Accord as it was for his CD.





For anyone wanting to check out his whole build thread, it's here.
Thank god! That thread was my original inspiration to look into this years ago, and why I eventually pushed to do it. It's not as informative as I'd like, but it's still fun just to see the build.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:15 PM   #67
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I looked at track widths a bit today. The factory CB track width is listed as 58.3". The 2005 Acura RL is listed at 62" and the TL at 62.1". So, using those subframes would present the issue of a 4" wider track in the front. Before we start considering wheel offsets to bring this back to an easier setup, remember that it's still a 5x120 hub on the RL and an adapter is another 1.25" on either side for a total of 6.5" in increased width. The wheel bearings on the RL are beefy, so I'm not worried about them, but the car would look a little silly without something being done in the back to match the front.


Here's a crossmember for an '88-'91 Civic/CR-X that Whitfield Mfg. makes. It's chromoly construction specifically designed to allow big K-series headers to fit in those cramped engine bays.



If we could have something like this made for us, that would be the icing on the cake for getting this swap done. The mount pattern could be made to hold the factory CB-style rear mount and the factory J-series mount. If it could hold the factory J-series mount, we could use the OEM aluminum bracket to establish a baseline location for front-to-rear positioning of the engine in the bay.
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My for sale thread with some pretty good buys in it.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=186737

2nd 1993 Accord EX frost white coupe
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=205292
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Old 01-13-2017, 04:13 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
I looked at track widths a bit today. The factory CB track width is listed as 58.3". The 2005 Acura RL is listed at 62" and the TL at 62.1". So, using those subframes would present the issue of a 4" wider track in the front. Before we start considering wheel offsets to bring this back to an easier setup, remember that it's still a 5x120 hub on the RL and an adapter is another 1.25" on either side for a total of 6.5" in increased width. The wheel bearings on the RL are beefy, so I'm not worried about them, but the car would look a little silly without something being done in the back to match the front.


Here's a crossmember for an '88-'91 Civic/CR-X that Whitfield Mfg. makes. It's chromoly construction specifically designed to allow big K-series headers to fit in those cramped engine bays.



If we could have something like this made for us, that would be the icing on the cake for getting this swap done. The mount pattern could be made to hold the factory CB-style rear mount and the factory J-series mount. If it could hold the factory J-series mount, we could use the OEM aluminum bracket to establish a baseline location for front-to-rear positioning of the engine in the bay.
Honestly, I wouldn't be opposed to a wider track. It'd enhance corner stability and reduce weight transfer, although it would probably cause a lot of fabrication work.

A custom subframe would be great, but expensive. It would definitely make this more accessible, but let's be honest the community is dwindling and those remaining are either in a longterm project already or would be excited for this but never complete it.

I really just need to get my hands on an engine and transmission. From there, I could get pictures of how it lines up in the bay and see what would need to be done to actually mount this bad boy. I've been thinking about mounts still, and we might be able to drill the existing rear crossmember for the OEM mounts. Front mount I think will be the Innovative Prelude mount and traction bar, passenger side mount could be bolt-in aftermarket for another chassis or bolt-in OEM modified, driver side I'm curious if I could replicate Alex's side mount and use the Hasport trans mount with the CB7 original driverside mount. I don't know if I could obtain only that mount however, so I'm still looking at other opportunities.

You wouldn't happen to need to replace one of your engines with a '91 SE black leather interior, would you?
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:10 PM   #69
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Honestly, I wouldn't be opposed to a wider track. It'd enhance corner stability and reduce weight transfer, although it would probably cause a lot of fabrication work.
Agreed in principle, but 6.5 inches?! That's quite a bit to increase. You'd need to cut out your fenders and quarter panels and install flares to cover the rear wheels. I don't know what you would do outside of getting 10"-wide wheels in the back with a moderate offset.

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A custom subframe would be great, but expensive. It would definitely make this more accessible, but let's be honest the community is dwindling and those remaining are either in a longterm project already or would be excited for this but never complete it.
You're right. It's not very feasible. But it would be nice to build it to your specs and have the rear mount drop in and clear the rear header. With the clearance I imagine you would have back there after moving the engine far back enough to correct axle angle, you're not going to be able to fit much beyond the aftermarket Comptech copies that are sold. That's not the worst news as they have been dyno-proven to gain 14 whp on a J32A2, but larger diameter long tubes would be so much nicer!

More of an excuse to go turbo at that point as the rear manifold could just direct toward the transmission instead of having to squeeze past the crossmember.

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I really just need to get my hands on an engine and transmission. From there, I could get pictures of how it lines up in the bay and see what would need to be done to actually mount this bad boy. I've been thinking about mounts still, and we might be able to drill the existing rear crossmember for the OEM mounts. Front mount I think will be the Innovative Prelude mount and traction bar, passenger side mount could be bolt-in aftermarket for another chassis or bolt-in OEM modified, driver side I'm curious if I could replicate Alex's side mount and use the Hasport trans mount with the CB7 original driverside mount. I don't know if I could obtain only that mount however, so I'm still looking at other opportunities.
I honestly never even thought of positioning the mount and drilling/nut-serting for it. That's so easy! You could do the same thing with the rear mount and bracket that comes in the Hasport/Innovative kits. That's a lot easier than modifying the bracket to reach the mount.

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You wouldn't happen to need to replace one of your engines with a '91 SE black leather interior, would you?
I have every single part I need for an OEM black interior in my coupe. The parts I can't get, I'm retrofitting from other cars or have dyed with SEM landau black.
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My for sale thread with some pretty good buys in it.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=186737

2nd 1993 Accord EX frost white coupe
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=205292
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Old 01-14-2017, 12:47 AM   #70
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Agreed in principle, but 6.5 inches?! That's quite a bit to increase. You'd need to cut out your fenders and quarter panels and install flares to cover the rear wheels. I don't know what you would do outside of getting 10"-wide wheels in the back with a moderate offset.
Eh, racecar. At that point why would you not run 10" wide wheels? Need something to hook up likely not going to do this, though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
You're right. It's not very feasible. But it would be nice to build it to your specs and have the rear mount drop in and clear the rear header. With the clearance I imagine you would have back there after moving the engine far back enough to correct axle angle, you're not going to be able to fit much beyond the aftermarket Comptech copies that are sold. That's not the worst news as they have been dyno-proven to gain 14 whp on a J32A2, but larger diameter long tubes would be so much nicer!

More of an excuse to go turbo at that point as the rear manifold could just direct toward the transmission instead of having to squeeze past the crossmember.
At least initially, exhaust clearance is not an issue. Cheap chinese headers are fine with me! If I do custom long tubes I'll probably revisit a custom rear subframe.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
I honestly never even thought of positioning the mount and drilling/nut-serting for it. That's so easy! You could do the same thing with the rear mount and bracket that comes in the Hasport/Innovative kits. That's a lot easier than modifying the bracket to reach the mount.
My thoughts exactly! I may have to put some plate to distribute the force, but that's still better than custom mounts expecially since I wouldn't have to weld that.

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I have every single part I need for an OEM black interior in my coupe. The parts I can't get, I'm retrofitting from other cars or have dyed with SEM landau black.
Ah, coupes. I still kind of want a coupe, but driving an Accord sedan around a track just sounds so silly that I can't give up the four working doors. That, and I can lexan the rear windows and seal them to the door to remove the glass and window roller mechanisms.
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