A\C Recharge?

[GTRON]

It's getting warmer here in KC MO and I'm going to want my AC working here pretty quick. I'm pretty sure everything is functioning, but no freon. I know my AC system is still r12, does anyone know where to get a recharge kit for r12? (I do realize I have a leak in the system, I just want to recharge it, and see how long it lasts)

[lbus9168]

I believe you have to do an r134 conversion.

[Tishock]

Ebay will probably be your best bet to get r12. Also see the DIY if you're interested in converting


1990-93 A/C RETROFIT AND RECHARGING
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=80693

[GTRON]

Ebay will probably be your best bet to get r12. Also see the DIY if you're interested in converting


1990-93 A/C RETROFIT AND RECHARGING
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=80693

Amazon has options. That retrofit kit, what did he retrofit? And what's the benefit of switching to r134?

[deevergote]

R134a is environmentally friendly. R12 is not.

R12 may only be used by a licensed professional in the US. Anyone not properly licensed can face hefty penalties (and I wouldn't be surprised if they're keeping an eye on the internet for DIYers asking this very question, as well as people purchasing R12 online.)

[lbus9168]

In Australia I can't even recharge r134a

[GTRON]

In Australia I can't even recharge r134a

That sucks!

[masospaghetti]

You can get "drop-in" substitutes for R12 such as Red Tek R12a, here: http://www.amazon.com/RED-TEK-Refrig...ds=redtek+r123

Just keep in mind that most of these drop-ins are hydrocarbon based (usually a blend of propane). Red Tek says autoignition is 1385 degrees F but I would still be concerned about flammability.The A/C system was not designed to contain flammable gases in a collision.

I converted both of my CB7's to R-134a and have been pretty happy overall with the performance. If your system is empty, you have a leak and you need to find it.

I personally would do a proper R-134a conversion before I used a drop-in R-12 substitute. R-134a conversions have been "proven" and are predictable. If you need a shop to service your system for any reason in the future, they won't touch it if you use a drop-in substitute.

If you beg/borrow/steal a vacuum pump and gauge set (some parts stores will loan them) a R-134a conversion is cheap. You'd need:

Fitting kit: http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-...a+retrofit+kit

Dupont R-134a, 3 cans: http://www.amazon.com/R-134a-DuPont-...eywords=r-134a

Ester oil: http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2432-Ester...s=ester+oil+ac

o-ring kit: http://www.amazon.com/ATD-356-270-Pi...=r-134a+o-ring

Receiver/Drier: http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-3.../dp/B000DCNESK

Total cost about $60. Regardless of what method you choose, I would highly recommend getting a legitimate manifold gauge set to recharge with because they will show you the system pressures. Those little charge kits come with a gauge but they show low-side only (and are usually not accurate anyway). To verify the system is working right and you have the correct charge you really need to see high and low side pressures. An incorrect charge will result in a system that doesn't work very well. Also you HAVE to vacuum your system down to remove moisture and air. If you don't, you'll have air and moisture mixed with your refrigerant charge and performance will suffer. (I think Redtek R-12a is an exception to this and they specifically say NOT to vacuum the system down.)

[GTRON]

You can get "drop-in" substitutes for R12 such as Red Tek R12a, here: http://www.amazon.com/RED-TEK-Refrig...ds=redtek+r123

Just keep in mind that most of these drop-ins are hydrocarbon based (usually a blend of propane). Red Tek says autoignition is 1385 degrees F but I would still be concerned about flammability.The A/C system was not designed to contain flammable gases in a collision.

I converted both of my CB7's to R-134a and have been pretty happy overall with the performance. If your system is empty, you have a leak and you need to find it.

I personally would do a proper R-134a conversion before I used a drop-in R-12 substitute. R-134a conversions have been "proven" and are predictable. If you need a shop to service your system for any reason in the future, they won't touch it if you use a drop-in substitute.

If you beg/borrow/steal a vacuum pump and gauge set (some parts stores will loan them) a R-134a conversion is cheap. You'd need:

Fitting kit: http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-...a+retrofit+kit

Dupont R-134a, 3 cans: http://www.amazon.com/R-134a-DuPont-...eywords=r-134a

Ester oil: http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2432-Ester...s=ester+oil+ac

o-ring kit: http://www.amazon.com/ATD-356-270-Pi...=r-134a+o-ring

Receiver/Drier: http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-3.../dp/B000DCNESK

Total cost about $60. Regardless of what method you choose, I would highly recommend getting a legitimate manifold gauge set to recharge with because they will show you the system pressures. Those little charge kits come with a gauge but they show low-side only (and are usually not accurate anyway). To verify the system is working right and you have the correct charge you really need to see high and low side pressures. An incorrect charge will result in a system that doesn't work very well. Also you HAVE to vacuum your system down to remove moisture and air. If you don't, you'll have air and moisture mixed with your refrigerant charge and performance will suffer. (I think Redtek R-12a is an exception to this and they specifically say NOT to vacuum the system down.)

That is super helpful, thank you so much!

[GTRON]

My A/C Barely cools, like barely. I think everything is working properly, should I just be topping off, or doing a conversion? I don't really want to do a conversion, honestly.

[masospaghetti]

My A/C Barely cools, like barely. I think everything is working properly, should I just be topping off, or doing a conversion? I don't really want to do a conversion, honestly.

You need to get a gauge set so you can see what's going on inside. You're still running R-12?

Probably low on refrigerant - but if its been serviced before, it may have moisture inside, or may be overcharged. Or it could be a mechanical problem (weak compressor or restricted/defective expansion valve). Also make sure your cooling fans are working and providing enough airflow through the condenser.

[GTRON]

You need to get a gauge set so you can see what's going on inside. You're still running R-12?

Probably low on refrigerant - but if its been serviced before, it may have moisture inside, or may be overcharged. Or it could be a mechanical problem (weak compressor or restricted/defective expansion valve). Also make sure your cooling fans are working and providing enough airflow through the condenser.

It's all original, as far as I know. I doubt it's been serviced before. Cooling fans work fine. What kind of gauge set do you think I should get? Thanks, Gabe

[masospaghetti]

This is a high quality, legitmate USA-made manifold set. Not cheap but i've seen commercial A/C techs with these: http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...fold+gauge+set

That will work on your R-12 set out of the box. If you wanted to use it for a R-134a system you also need these:

http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-8201-...PXGY2HG7249PP6

There are much cheaper manifold sets available (down to about $25) but I can't vouch for their quality.

Personally, I figured I would continue to service A/C systems in the future so I got a decent quality set of service tools. You have to decide if you will do this again in the future and then invest accordingly. But, in my opinion, A/C work is low hanging fruit and these tools pay for themselves very quickly. Paying a shop to do a/c work is really expensive!

[GTRON]

This is a high quality, legitmate USA-made manifold set. Not cheap but i've seen commercial A/C techs with these: http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-...fold+gauge+set

That will work on your R-12 set out of the box. If you wanted to use it for a R-134a system you also need these:

http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-8201-...PXGY2HG7249PP6

There are much cheaper manifold sets available (down to about $25) but I can't vouch for their quality.

Personally, I figured I would continue to service A/C systems in the future so I got a decent quality set of service tools. You have to decide if you will do this again in the future and then invest accordingly. But, in my opinion, A/C work is low hanging fruit and these tools pay for themselves very quickly. Paying a shop to do a/c work is really expensive!

How does this look? http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/5437374331.html

[masospaghetti]

That would probably work, if it really comes with a full can of R12 then that's a great deal. I think a can of R12 runs about $50-60 now.