Negative camber good or not?

[bassrock234]

$124 each holy crap. I just got whatever was middle range price for what we had at the dealer. I only paid $88 each

[H311RA151N]

$124 each holy crap. I just got whatever was middle range price for what we had at the dealer. I only paid $88 each

Yeah Id say you stole them. Thats a damn good price.

[H311RA151N]

Off topic but once I get the Ingalls camber kit installed Im getting Potenza RE960AS. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes

[bassrock234]

I ran RE01R's on my isuzu, I must say bridgestone makes some great tires.

Back on topic, this is my LF tire



You can see some wear on the very inside edge but thats mostly from rubbing inside the fender so.

Inside edge



outside edge



I bought these in August and ran them daily until my engine blew somewhere around december. I put a whole crap load of miles on my car compared to most people. But have no idea exactly how many miles I have on them.

[Hondalover]

All I can say to OP is: Be like Nike and "JUST DO IT"
It's obvious that the more neg camber you have the faster the tires will wear on the inside. If you have a set up that requires it then do it. If you don't have the money or time to change your tires that often then DON'T DO IT.
I've had -7.5 camber on the front of my car before so that my wheels would tuck. The tires didn't last me two months. and I drive a lot.
If you want a wide wheel with low offset then consider the options. Don't just get an 8 inch wide wheel with a 0 offset because it's what everyone else is getting. Think about it. I have an 8 inch wide wheel with a +13 offset and they still don't tuck without excessive fender rolling or crazy excessive camber. Get a wheel that fits your car right.

If you just want camber without fitment then consider the tire wear. Anymore than -3 neg camber will wear out the tires pretty fast.

It's all a matter of what you want/have the money and time for.

[H311RA151N]

It looks to me where you havent measured the depth isnt where the most wear is. It looks to be further over on the side.

If you really look its worn pretty good. Not real bad but its getting there. But its still pretty far away from needing to be dealt with. Id say they are around half life from showing no tread on the inside.

In yellow is what Im looking at. Its taken down the tread pretty good in comparison to the other side. In red you can see a huge difference from one side to the other.



In this one inside the orange lines is where I see that its wearing the most.




Still, thats pretty good though. From the good side of the tire I would say you have 4-6k on them.

Bridgestone must make good tires.

[H311RA151N]

All I can say to OP is: Be like Nike and "JUST DO IT"
It's obvious that the more neg camber you have the faster the tires will wear on the inside. If you have a set up that requires it then do it. If you don't have the money or time to change your tires that often then DON'T DO IT.
I've had -7.5 camber on the front of my car before so that my wheels would tuck. The tires didn't last me two months. and I drive a lot.
If you want a wide wheel with low offset then consider the options. Don't just get an 8 inch wide wheel with a 0 offset because it's what everyone else is getting. Think about it. I have an 8 inch wide wheel with a +13 offset and they still don't tuck without excessive fender rolling or crazy excessive camber. Get a wheel that fits your car right.

If you just want camber without fitment then consider the tire wear. Anymore than -3 neg camber will wear out the tires pretty fast.

It's all a matter of what you want/have the money and time for.

It’s not a matter of money it’s simply having to buy tires. Most of the tires I like the shops don’t carry. They can get them but it sometimes takes two weeks and when your needing tires sometimes you can’t wait that long. So I normally have to order them. I have painted my wheels the right way with high quality paint & primer and still the tire shop manages to scuff my wheels every time. And if your lowered you get to see the guy putting your car on the lift scrap the hell out of your car. Thats why I dont like to buy tires. And really 195/60R15s are pretty cheap. Even for the best brands.

It is preference though. I just don’t see the need in prematurely wearing good tires out. But then again I don’t have much negative camber which IMO looks pretty good.

What were you lowered on to get -7.5* of camber? That sounds pretty wild!

[deevergote]

Exactly...

Try Driving Around With negative Camber For A few hundred miles then lift the Car An try Taking the tire of with no gloves and see if you don't get a wake up call when ya ass get pricked by the metal wires coming out the inside of the tire i highly don't recommend lowering your car with out a camber kit or some form of camber adjustment part. Not Safe For A Daily driver and not good for the amount of money coming out of pocket for new tires every few hundred miles.. when the money spent buying new tires can be used for new adjustable uca which now a days are not too expensive with the amount of ebay and main stream companies making them..

There's no such thing as an adjustable UCA. It's either the ball joint or the anchor bolts. TASauto has an "adjustable UCA" that they sell, but it's just a generic UCA with an Ingalls adjustable ball joint installed.
I truly wouldn't risk any brand but Ingalls or SPC for a camber kit. I made that mistake once, and got a cheap Dropzone kit from Ebay... and I nearly crashed when it broke at 65mph in rush hour traffic.
When a camber kit breaks, it's not likely to happen in your driveway.

Im tired and its late but I see what you mean and you can do that. I didnt think of it that far because its a bad idea IMO to begin with. I have put holes in tires low on tread a few times but I havent yet put a hole in a good tire. Lucky me.

For you the camber is what you like I take it and it looks good on your CB.

Im lowered on Eibach Pros with Koni STRTs. About a 1.5/1.75 drop. My camber is around -2 to -2.25 in the front. I have put 5k on them and they are pretty worn in the inside fronts.



But I imagine that a good performance tire would hold up to the negative camber better. By the looks of it I imagine thats what you have am I right?

Was your toe aligned properly? Those aren't only worn on the inside. They look to be quite worn everywhere. In 5k, that suggests to me that your toe is way off.
-3 wouldn't wear out tires in under 10k... but as oni_cb7 said, it took about 25k for them to get dangerous (which could mean tread that is too low, completely bald, or showing belts... we don't know what he considers dangerous!)

All I can say to OP is: Be like Nike and "JUST DO IT"
It's obvious that the more neg camber you have the faster the tires will wear on the inside. If you have a set up that requires it then do it. If you don't have the money or time to change your tires that often then DON'T DO IT.
I've had -7.5 camber on the front of my car before so that my wheels would tuck. The tires didn't last me two months. and I drive a lot.
If you want a wide wheel with low offset then consider the options. Don't just get an 8 inch wide wheel with a 0 offset because it's what everyone else is getting. Think about it. I have an 8 inch wide wheel with a +13 offset and they still don't tuck without excessive fender rolling or crazy excessive camber. Get a wheel that fits your car right.

If you just want camber without fitment then consider the tire wear. Anymore than -3 neg camber will wear out the tires pretty fast.

It's all a matter of what you want/have the money and time for.

That's pretty much the way to do it. If you run excessive camber, for whatever reason, you should be aware of the wear, and replace your tires accordingly.
Flipping tires, as mentioned earlier, is not a very good idea for prolonging the life. Even with negative camber, the outer edge is going to be used in hard cornering. If that outer edge is bald, you'll crash during hard cornering!

[H311RA151N]

The TAS Pro control arms look nice and bulk with an appealing look. Steep price though. And quality is questionable IMO. Might not be if I knew who makes them. Ive tried to ask questions with no reply.

I couldnt tell you what the toe is but it was green on my chart. I might try and find it today and see. It was aligned right after the springs settled.

From what I just read all seasons like I have wont take the negative camber like a performance summer tire will. The tires mile rating has nothing to do with it.

[deevergote]

Oh yeah, a tire's mile rating is no more than a guess. The tire's life depends on the alignment, suspension health, driving style, road type and condition, weight of the car... plenty of factors! Harder compounds generally last longer than softer compounds (which means all seasons should last longer than summer...) but it depends.
Some tires are indeed made for some negative camber. Nitto Neo Gen tires are known to have been made with the lowered enthusiast in mind.


I have the TAS arms on my car right now. I got them in exchange for advertising and a member shop for a limited time. By the end of the agreed upon period, their representative had abandoned us, and they failed to respond to any inquiries. I REALLY need to remove their banner! The company sucks ass. They stopped being good, and now they're just selling either cheap crap or OEM parts... at inflated prices. You can get the same "performance" parts on eBay for less, and the same inexpensive aftermarket OEM replacement parts from Rockauto for WAY less (and for the record, the only thing Rockauto gives to this site for the privilege of advertising is that 5% discount code... which I suppose they give to their customers anyway! )

[H311RA151N]

I have Nitto Neo Gens on the front of my lowered Integra. They are relatively new and I’m not that pleased really. I might be too picky. I like them better than the Kumho Exctas on the back though.

That’s an alright hook up on those UCAs. What can you say about their ROH big brake kits or their rear disc brake conversion?

Their $200 stainless header makes me chuckle every time.

[deevergote]

Their header is pretty much the same garbage you get for $50 on ebay!

The UCAs were way cheaper when I got them (like $200 or something). The price skyrocketed after that. They're decent, but I wouldn't pay what they're asking for them. I'd get some SPC anchor bolts instead, if I was paying.

Their ROH and big brakes kits are, to my knowledge, just the OEM upgrades that we can do using Acura parts. I'm quite sure the members of this site essentially created those packages by telling TAS what they wanted. Basically, they're no different than if you went to Honda and bought it all new, other than the fact you're paying TAS for the convenience of doing the legwork for you. Anything that isn't OEM is likely cheap junk that I wouldn't put anywhere near my car.


I'm not terribly picky about tires, but I've never had a set of Kumhos that I liked. IMO, Kumho makes AWFUL tires. Loud, no grip, and they wear quickly. Granted, I've never gotten any seriously good models... just their cheapies... but I've had cheapies from Dunlop and General that I'd swear by! (General Optimax HP are what I've been running on my Fit for the past 3 tire changes... I love them, and they're inexpensive!)

[H311RA151N]

The UCAs are $425 now. Thats pretty high. My ideal combo is Ingalls in front and SPC UCAs in the back.

Thats good to know about their brake packages. I really had no clue as to what the deal was.

I really like General Tire. I have had a few sets over time. The tires in this thread are Goodyear Viva IIs.

I have Firestones on my 91 Accord. I payed alot for them but Im really pleased. They were somewhere around $600 installed. All around I like them. Snow, wet, traction and wear are all very good.

I refuse to buy Kumhos again. Ive had them on my RX7 and now this and they suck.

[wed3k]

the only way i buy kumho's is if a car that im flipping needs tires like the 01 miata that i have. kumho's are only 55 each (195/50/15 same as corrado)

[bassrock234]

I see what you're saying. The reason I didn't measure that far out is because I believe that wear is mostly from rubbing here



and that would make the measurment inacurate