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Dwhacks : 1992 Accord DX

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    #46
    You NEED to have the block measured to verify the bore and roundness of each cylinder. As long as it is within spec, you should be fine with a light hone. I would strongly suggest new OEM rings, or a quality aftermarket brand.

    Aside from that, I would say that you can get away with replacing only the seals you have to remove. The oil pan seal, the o-ring on the center main cap and the oil pickup tube gasket are the only ones that I can think of that have to be removed to take out the pistons and rods. Obviously, the front and rear main, rear main housing and water pump seals should be replaced, but you can get away without removing the balance shaft gear set and the oil pump itself.

    Since you're removing the rods, I would verify that the surfaces of the journals are good, then buy the same color rod bearings from Honda. Depending on the rings you buy, you're looking at $175-250 in bearings, rings, gaskets and seal to complete the bottom end. Of course that doesn't count a head gasket, timing belt, injector seals, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets and any machine work. But, the finished product will be fairly rewarding.

    If everything sounds more expensive than you planned, it's because you're changin pistons. Otherwise, you could find a low-mileage engine, swap the head, check for shavings and only worry about top end stuff. Either way, this will be more fun and will make better use of a higher-rpm camshaft.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #47
      Thanks for the input, that is about what I figured.

      Mostly I'm trying to do this myself as the closest machine shop is a 2.5hr drive each way and I obviously sounds get same day service. I guess I'll just pony up and have them do the bottom end. Either that or buy the tools to do all the measurements and then maybe need them to bore it anyway! ha.
      Bought from: Night Wolf, bassrock234, sonikaccord, 904drACCORDMANG

      92 Accord, F23a franken-engine, N/A forever.

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        #48
        Just read up since my last visit. That was a great run in the vid! Have we discussed what transmission you're running? Are you on the stock Accord transmission?

        If so, maybe a JDM Prelude transmission would be a future consideration (gear ratios, 4.266 final drive and LSD).
        1993 Accord DX | Rosewood Brown Metallic

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          #49
          Originally posted by apalileo View Post
          Just read up since my last visit. That was a great run in the vid! Have we discussed what transmission you're running? Are you on the stock Accord transmission?

          If so, maybe a JDM Prelude transmission would be a future consideration (gear ratios, 4.266 final drive and LSD).
          Yes, the tranny is still stock, and I agree, I should swap it out. But jeeze, the Canadian dollar is really not helping me make any of the "bigger" purchases. I really want to replace my Ostrich II with an s300 but jeeze, that's a lot of dough to fork out.

          I did however finally scrounge up enough money to buy my rear koni yellows to match the fronts I got on the forum a couple months back. Got them installed with Neuspeed Race springs now! Finally!

          Dyno day in a week, so I'll find out what kinda power we are making. I've got an extra head with .020" milled off, arp head studs, and bisi valve springs ready to install once I get the valve stem seals. May also do some work on the Intake Manifold while I have it off, and may install my AEM fuel rail.... we'll see how much time I have before the weekend.

          Next up I'll rebuild the engine, still undecided what I'm going to do, but that will wait until the two drag races in June are over.
          Bought from: Night Wolf, bassrock234, sonikaccord, 904drACCORDMANG

          92 Accord, F23a franken-engine, N/A forever.

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            #50
            I hear ya on the exchange rate Buddy in the US I know just got Precision ID1000CC injectors for $200. Cheapest I can get them is around $450-$500 (with tax+shipping+customs). What is up with your clutch though? I'm guessing OEM and the catch point is really high?

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              #51
              Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
              .....What is up with your clutch though? I'm guessing OEM and the catch point is really high?
              Yeah I dunno, been like that since I got it and I've bled it. My brother did the clutch when he blew the tranny so it should be good, but I guess that was quite a while ago and some hard driving has happened since then.

              I would like to do a lightweight flywheel and clutch though... it's on the ever growing list list.

              Also need a new steering rack, or get mine apart and remove the seals to make it into a true strong arm rack, but undecided as of yet, and its quite a bit of work.

              Question though, what front UCA's are people running? I've got some cheapo adjustable ebay ones that my brother got before the car became my project. Now I don't seem to find much for availability when searching.
              Bought from: Night Wolf, bassrock234, sonikaccord, 904drACCORDMANG

              92 Accord, F23a franken-engine, N/A forever.

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                #52
                I love this thread! So unique. How is your Engine management system working? You're using chrome?

                I'm thinking about what kind of system I'm going to get, for N/A and turbo in the future. Sounds like you're wanting to go Hondata in future?
                I'm faster then a prius

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                  #53
                  Originally posted by GTRON View Post
                  I love this thread! So unique. How is your Engine management system working? You're using chrome?

                  I'm thinking about what kind of system I'm going to get, for N/A and turbo in the future. Sounds like you're wanting to go Hondata in future?
                  Thanks!

                  Right now its Crome, but the reason I want hondata is that the only tuner in the area (still 2.5h drive each way) tunes with hondata. I would like to get some proper dyno tuning done. and thats the only way I can do it and still be able to play on my own side.

                  for now its been tuned by me only, and I'm learning as I go. It is my first car, and I only got my license two years ago.
                  Bought from: Night Wolf, bassrock234, sonikaccord, 904drACCORDMANG

                  92 Accord, F23a franken-engine, N/A forever.

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                    #54
                    Well I guess my street tune isn't very good. Haha!

                    Needs some ignition advance up top I'm thinkin.

                    Bought from: Night Wolf, bassrock234, sonikaccord, 904drACCORDMANG

                    92 Accord, F23a franken-engine, N/A forever.

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                      #55
                      Props to you! Two years after getting my license I was doing all the wrong things. Keep it up and you'll be posting some monster charts in no time!
                      1993 Accord DX | Rosewood Brown Metallic

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                        #56
                        Halp!!!!

                        Maybe someone here knows.... I can't seem to set my base timing! using the marks on the timing belt cover and the pulley wheel I'm not able to retard it enough. I've tried jumpering the connector which sets it to 16.5 according to Crome, and I've tried the Crome Gold's "lock ignitions timing to:" function, both which lock it but no matter where I turn the distributor the marks are towards the firewall.

                        When I turn the distributor all the way clockwise (looking at it from the passenger side, top towards the rad) where the 3 marks are closest to where they "should" be the car doesnt idle nearly as good.

                        Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I have tried two different timing lights, both are the non adjustable types, and both give me the same result.
                        Bought from: Night Wolf, bassrock234, sonikaccord, 904drACCORDMANG

                        92 Accord, F23a franken-engine, N/A forever.

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                          #57
                          Could the timing belt be off by a tooth on the cam?
                          1993 Accord DX | Rosewood Brown Metallic

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                            #58
                            Originally posted by apalileo View Post
                            Could the timing belt be off by a tooth on the cam?
                            I don't think so, When I installed everything I cranked it over by hand a few times and the cam gear marks lined up correctly with the TDC mark on the crank pulley. I will check again.

                            Maybe it jumped a tooth? Would it still be this drivable though? Ive done around 500km since swapping to my milled down head.

                            Bought from: Night Wolf, bassrock234, sonikaccord, 904drACCORDMANG

                            92 Accord, F23a franken-engine, N/A forever.

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                              #59
                              Never mind, youre right. Off by one! darnnit!
                              Bought from: Night Wolf, bassrock234, sonikaccord, 904drACCORDMANG

                              92 Accord, F23a franken-engine, N/A forever.

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                                #60
                                Based on what you described, it was the first possibility that I thought of. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen. Glad you got it sorted!
                                1993 Accord DX | Rosewood Brown Metallic

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