Looking to compile a Exhaust Parts list.

[MadSpleen85]

Just like the title says, I searched with no luck, for a parts list of the parts needed for an exhaust header/downpipe install. I am after this for two reasons, first being I am going to be installing a header/downpipe setup, the second being, I figure it will be of use to more members planning on doing the same.

I know the obvious, you need a header and downpipe. Beyond that the names of and quanity of gaskets, tool recomendations, any nuts/bolts to replace, tips/tricks. I am hoping to have all the needed parts and pieces by Friday or Saturday, that way when I install my new setup I can take all the pics needed to put together a DIY for future reference.

I did find one older thread that appears to have some posts removed and information missing. So I am taking the bits and pieces from that one and hoping to put together something with pics. All useful input is encouraged. Thanks in advance.

[nine_deuce]

As previously stated. You'll need the header and down pipe.
Gaskets, the one at the head, the one between the header and down pipe, and the one between the down pipe and cat.

You should be able to reuse the nuts from the exhaust manifold. Depending on whether your car has a/c or not, you may need to remove the a/c line, or gently move it out of the way.

You might need the bolts to attach the header to the down pipe, and from the down pipe to the cat. The stock ones should be ok. The bracket where the down pipe hooks to the block, there are 2 nuts that need to be taken off, I believe they're a 12mm. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward

[Losiracer2]

That DC header should have 2 OEM style crush rings between the header and DP, and as for between the DP and Cat, the OEM cat should also have a crush ring in the front side if I'm not mistaken. Glad you're so anxious to put it on!

[MadSpleen85]

Glad you're so anxious to put it on!

Yes sir I am. I already have plans later this afternoon and Thursday or I would be putting it on sooner. Hopefully, the weather will cooperate for me. And why not help out the rest of CB7tuner with another DIY while I am at it and will be taking my time.

[benji]

Just as a tip, wobble sockets and a really long bar extension (like, 18"-24") are very handy for getting your breaker bar/ratchet down where you can really apply some effort to them when removing/installing the downpipe nuts. I can't remember the exact length, but it needs to be long enough to reach from where the header and downpipe come together to underneath the car. Getting your wrench underneath the car also allows you to use pipes/longer wrenches for increased leverage.

On the stock headers, the studs have a tendency to break loose (at least for me, anyways). I always take the time to get the nut off of the stud while it's out, and then I use a bench wire wheel to clean the rust off of the stud before reinstalling it into the header (usually by double nutting it). Also make sure the threads are in good shape.

Another tip: use a craftsman/snap on socket, so when you break it you get a free replacement due to the warranty.

Edit: Also, I would suggest undoing the downpipe from the header first, and then undoing the rubber hanger between the engine and the cat. After that, it doesn't matter if you undo the dp from the cat or take the header off. You will need to be able to flex the dp around to get the top bolt on the cat. You don't have to undo any of the hangers after it, though, unless you are really desperate.

For reinstallation, you might consider new hangers if they are original. They don't flex very much when they are old, and can be very hard to put back on. Plus, if they are dry and cracked, they might break. If you don't replace them, definitely consider spraying the hole the hanger goes through with silicone, otherwise it will be a bitch to work back over.

[BBuncky2]

Just like the title says, I searched with no luck, for a parts list of the parts needed for an exhaust header/downpipe install. I am after this for two reasons, first being I am going to be installing a header/downpipe setup, the second being, I figure it will be of use to more members planning on doing the same.

I know the obvious, you need a header and downpipe. Beyond that the names of and quanity of gaskets, tool recomendations, any nuts/bolts to replace, tips/tricks. I am hoping to have all the needed parts and pieces by Friday or Saturday, that way when I install my new setup I can take all the pics needed to put together a DIY for future reference.

I did find one older thread that appears to have some posts removed and information missing. So I am taking the bits and pieces from that one and hoping to put together something with pics. All useful input is encouraged. Thanks in advance.

I just wanted to let you know that I have a (mostly) complete parts list for the header/downpipe install job. I just completed it, and used all new honda oem parts. I don't have the list with me, since I'm at work.

What I CAN provide for you while I am here at work is some advice.

First off, if you're replacing the manifold studs, know that they're a bitch (not all of mine were--just random ones).

You'll need vice grips (normal, or better yet needle-nose vice grips so that you don't ruin the threads on your new studs when you put them in because not all of them will thread in all the way by hand!)

Also, if it's been a while since your cat bolts were touched, you'll want to take special considerations. When you get down there and see those bolts, they're probably going to be so rusted, you won't know how to get em off. Also, if you're going to be doing this on the ground, you'll have no space for anything like a breaker bar. It'll just be preferable to cut them off. Refer to my post: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=124722

The cutter you use is up to you. I used an angle grinder, but had a lot of trouble getting to the top cat bolt, as it is very close to the heat shielding. If I could do it again, I'd try a reciprocating saw.

Make sure you clean ALL surfaces with a strong cleaner, a dremel, and by taking your time. Use quality gaskets (I can't recommend as I just used my ebay ones). You don't need copper gasket sealant.

Use stainless steel hardware if you can find it, in order to avoid having to go through any of this again (I didn't really look, but if you know how to read hardware lingo [10x1.25] you can find some of the hardware in a hardware store in stainless steel for much cheaper.)

I hope these points help, and I will provide you with the list when I get home.

[visualpoet]

Good advice ^! Before you go rummaging around the bolt bin at the hardware store, try asking at your car parts store. Most of them sell Mr. Gasket prepacks of stainless exhaust bolts for about $5.

Remember to ALWAYS support the vehicle on stands for safety.

Spray the bolts down with pb blaster or your preferred penetrating oil and give them all a fairly solid couple of taps the night before and you'll have much less trouble with them the next day.

I think a reciprocating saw would be a bastard to use on the top bolt, the exhaust has enough movement in it to shake with the action of the blade. My advice is a Dremel with a few cutoff wheels, you should be able to cut right through.

It's also easier (assuming you have the shoulder and arm strength to do the job in the first place) to just tighten those bitches until they snap the heads right off, since you should be replacing them anyway. Just wear some gloves to protect your hands from scrapes and bruises!

If you have to break the AC line loose, be careful not to get your fingers in the resulting "fog", it can and will give you frostbite quickly. (It's also not legal, so maybe wrap a shop rag around the connector to help quiet the high pressure hiss and absorb the gases as they vent. But you didn't hear that from me)

[BBuncky2]

Good advice ^!

Yay! Recognition!

Also, I have to second the recommendation of gloves for the job. Get a nice pair of gloves that you can keep on for the whole job. A nice pair that will fit your hands well (will allow you to turn nuts without dropping them into the engine) and that will shield your knuckles. Mine are still healing from the beating they received.

Oh! If you are taking initiative on this job because of an exhaust leak, prepare for a really nice reward the first time you turn your car on after wards and go to drive it. It is SO nice to have a nice quiet exhaust after a very long time! Also, the comparatively improved throttle response will feel great!

[BBuncky2]

DUDE I FREAKING FORGOT! I'm so sorry! I'm putting it in my phone so that I don't forget tonight!

[BBuncky2]

DUDE I FREAKING FORGOT! I'm so sorry! I'm putting it in my phone so that I don't forget tonight!

Still forgot. I'm fucking hopeless.

In my defense, I do have a new baby daughter who I am with alone 4 nights a week while mom's at classes.

[MadSpleen85]

That DC header should have 2 OEM style crush rings between the header and DP, and as for between the DP and Cat, the OEM cat should also have a crush ring in the front side if I'm not mistaken. Glad you're so anxious to put it on!

Just double checked and all of the Crush rings are in place. I am not positive about the one in the front of the Cat but I am willing to bet there is one there.

n00b question... Do I need any gaskets besides the exhaust manifold gasket? I'm trying to get everything together before this afternoon so I can go out and get everything I need for installing it Saturday. I will have access to another car incase I need anything else.

Right now my list consists of
WD-40
Attempt to locate Stainless hardware kit
Anti-Seize
Oxygen Sensor Socker (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95045)
I have a couple different sockets and breaker bars
And I have a Pneuamatic Impact Gun

I think that is all I have right now. Comments/Suggestion welcome.

[Losiracer2]

Just double checked and all of the Crush rings are in place. I am not positive about the one in the front of the Cat but I am willing to bet there is one there.

n00b question... Do I need any gaskets besides the exhaust manifold gasket? I'm trying to get everything together before this afternoon so I can go out and get everything I need for installing it Saturday. I will have access to another car incase I need anything else.

Right now my list consists of
WD-40
Attempt to locate Stainless hardware kit
Anti-Seize
Oxygen Sensor Socker (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95045)
I have a couple different sockets and breaker bars
And I have a Pneuamatic Impact Gun

I think that is all I have right now. Comments/Suggestion welcome.

also get a 3/8ths universal joint or wobble socket for that 14mm nut on top of the Cat converter, that can be kinda difficult w/ just straight tools....and extensions...about a 10 inch one is good for the 3 DP to Header bolts/nuts. That should be it though! In a perfect situation...ie no cat issues coming off...you should be able to do this w/in an hour or so. At least thats how long it took me for my H22 Megan header to install.

[starchland]

hmm not too hard to do. extra bolts and a cut off wheel haha

[MadSpleen85]

Sprayed down all the bolts with WD-40 earlier this evening. Purchased the gasket, bolts and Oxygen Sensor socket today, so I am just waiting for tomorrow.

[Accrdwgnguy]

Are the OEM steel header to head gasket reusable? None of the auto parts stores in my area stock it.