ABS Light

[SleepyG]

Nope, can't say I do, mine is working properly

However I do have that stupid warning light telling me I have a brake light out because of the LED brake lights. Gotta get around to tearing the dash apart to remove it!

I had the same issue Tom, ended up going back to regular bulbs. It was the reason my cruise didnt work.

[Velocifero]

The ABS in our cars sucks big chocolate salty balls.

Also, ABS is for chicks and seniors.


You would be doing yourself a favour by disabling it.

Just my $.02

I will fly to Canada, take a taxi to your house, and pimpsmack you right in the face. Our ABS does suck in the fact that it breaks down, but ABS is awesome and saves lives. Living where you live you should appreciate how it can help in the snow and ice. And yes I know how to drive in such conditions, but no human can brake like an ABS system.

[TomQuick]

I gotta agree with Velo here (ok, well I'm not gonna fly to Canada to pimpsmack you in the face, but the rest I pretty much agree with), ABS does things that most people can't do. I have a good bit of experience behind the wheel of many different cars. I know how to brake, and still there have been times that I've over done it, especially on wet roads, or in snow / ice, and started skidding. Not too long ago, I had to stop in a big hurry with the Accord when a woman busy bullshitting on the phone failed to follow the right hand turn in the road, and drove straight into my lane. It was wet, and I was damned happy to have the ABS working. Not only did the car slow down in a big hurry, it allowed me to concentrate on steering, instead of worrying about pumping the brake pedal to keep it from skidding, so I was able to veer off to the side and get out of her crazy assed way.

[benjiaccord]

Tom, if you don't feel like going up to pimpsmack Sleepy, I'll go with Velo and we'll slap him from both sides of the face at the same time

ABS is good, I've never had a problem with mine (knock on wood) but I've driven plenty of cars without it and I know that ours is better with.

I grabbed the brakes too hard one night in my first car going around a curve on wet roads and boom, tossed into the ditch...given, I was 16 and wasn't a good driver, but had I had abs, that wouldn't have happened.

[TomQuick]

I'm a lot older than 16, and consider myself a very good driver, I still prefer ABS. There are times that you can stop faster without it, snow being one of them, but the vast majority of the time, you will have far more control over the vehicle with ABS than without it.

Eh, if the pimpsmacking must be done, I guess I'm down for a trip to Canada, never been there before. I think I'll skip the plane though, and drive. Perhaps I'll pick you guys up at the airport, and save you the taxi fare!

[SleepyG]

One of these days if the Accord is still alive I will come down there and you can all pimpsmack me at the same time from all directions with pimp canes ok.

Anyways I agree about the snow bit but if you are manual than downshifting really helps a lot in the snow so I strongly feel that I have better braking without it. I do agree with you guys that it can help in some situations, but I also like being able to lock up IF I absolutely have to. Once you have wider more grippy tires and 11.1" rotors your chances of locking up decrease by a lot anyways.

Perhaps for a DD it is useful but it's not worth fixing if the system goes on ya.

For tracking(which I plan to do) it is better wothout it.

Also the little pedal vibration it gives off annoys me too lol.

[Velocifero]

Tom, if you don't feel like going up to pimpsmack Sleepy, I'll go with Velo and we'll slap him from both sides of the face at the same time

Hahahaha!

Eh, if the pimpsmacking must be done, I guess I'm down for a trip to Canada, never been there before. I think I'll skip the plane though, and drive. Perhaps I'll pick you guys up at the airport, and save you the taxi fare!

It's done then. He won't be so "sleepy" after us yankees get done with him.

[NASSEAMACCORD]

im lmaoing about all this pimpslapping but how do you run the codes for the abs light and were is it going to read, and can someone also link me to a page were i can read the codes.

[benjiaccord]

here, let me pop over to cd5tuner where I have all that in a thread....oh that's right...

the harness is under the glove box, you can do the paper clip trick to test if you're obd1.

If you're obd2 then I'm not sure.

The abs light will blink to give you the problem code just like a cel...i'll have to do some searching for the codes though, I had them on a thread on cd5tuner...

[James Matteu]

ALB/ABS Codes

...If you're obd2 then I'm not sure...

OBD-IIa is the same as OBD-I, however OBD-IIb is not*.
Remember, when the ignition switch is put in ON (II) there will be a 2 second bulb check followed by a 2 second pause, then the main code will flash, 1 second pause, then the sub-code, then a 5 second pause before the next code. There are no short and long flashes like the Check Engine Light.

I did a Google on ABS codes and all sources online seem to be incomplete. So here it goes, hopefully this is sticky-worthy. Note: the page numbers are as found in the Helms P/N 61SV405.

Also, it appears that these codes are the same for all pre-1998 Honda ABS/ALB systems. *1998+ Honda ABS systems use a different set of codes.

I’m pretty familiar with code 1-0, so I put a little extra info there.


Code 0-0

Symptom: ABS indicator light does not come on when ignition switch is turned ON

Probable Cause:
1. Blown Back-up Lights/Meter Lights (10A) fuse
2. Open circuit between the Back-up Lights/Meter Lights (10A) fuse and ABS indicator light
3. Blown ABS indicator light bulb
4. Open circuit between ABS indicator light bulb and ABS control unit
5. Open circuit between ABS control unit and body ground
6. Poor body ground
7. Faulty ABS control unit

Refer to page 19-64

Code 0-0

Symptom: ABS indicator light does not go off after engine is started

Probable Cause:
1. Blown R/C Mirror (7.5A) fuse
2. Open circuit between the Under-dash Fuse/Relay box and ABS control unit.
3. Open circuit between the battery and Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box
4. Blown ABS B2 (15A) fuse
5. Open circuit inside the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box
6. Open circuit between the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box and ABS control unit
7. Faulty Alternator
8. Open circuit between the alternator and ABS control unit
9. Short to body ground in the WARN circuit between the ABS indicator light and ABS control unit
10. Faulty ABS control unit

Refer to page 19-66

Code 1-0

Diagnosis: ABS pump motor over-run
The ABS indicator light is turned ON when the pump motor relay ON signal is detected for more than 40 seconds while the ABS is not functioning

Diagnostic Period: Initial & Individual

Possible Cause:
1. Air mixed in the ABS brake fluid; look for foamy fluid in reservoir
2. Pressure Switch stuck OFF; see if the pump comes on and runs until the light comes on without stopping where cause #5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 are not present
3. Open in circuit between the pressure switch and ASBS control unit
4. Open circuit in the P-SW circuit between the pressure switch and body ground, or a poor ground
5. Drop in pump discharge volume; look for pools of fluid under modulator
6. Leaking outlet valve; same as #5
7. Leaking relief valve; look for reservoir volume to drop and then gradually rise to its original level, triggering the pump to kick back on
8. ABS brake fluid leakage; same as #5
9. Faulty ABS control unit; same as #2 or if ABS Indicator Light comes on quicker than 40 seconds

Solutions (each number below corresponds to a Possible Cause above):
1. Bleed the system with fresh fluid
2. Remove ABS Modulator, remove back panel, clean bourdon tube switch.
3. Repair open with solder and shrink wrap
4. Same as #3
5. Replace failing seals
6. Same as #5
7. Replace the relief valve; good luck, I've got the same problem and have yet to find a good replacement
8. Same as #5
9. Replace the ABS control unit with known working unit and see if there is a change in the diagnosis

Refer to page 19-69

Code 1-2

Diagnosis: Pump Motor
The ABS indicator light is turned on when battery voltage is detected at the MCK terminal while the pump motor relay OFF signal is detected; OR the ABS indicator light is turned on when zero volts is detected at the MCK terminal while the pump motor relay ON signal is detected.

Diagnostic Period: Initial & Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Open circuit or short to body ground between the R/C Mirror (7.5A) fuse and Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box
2. Open circuit or short to body ground in the PMR circuit inside the Under-hood ABS fuse/Relay box
3. Faulty pump motor relay
4. Open circuit or short to body ground in the PMR circuit between the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box and ABS control unit
5. Open circuit between the battery and Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box
6. Blown ABS Motor (40A) fuse
7. Blown ABS Unit (10A) fuse
8. Open circuit or short to body ground in the motor drive circuit and MCK circuit inside the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box
9. Open circuit or short to body ground in the MCK circuit between the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box and ABS control unit
10. Open circuit or short to body ground between the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box and pump motor
11. Faulty pump motor
12. Open circuit between the pump motor and body ground or poor ground
13. Faulty ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the MCK circuit
2. Intermittent interruption in the pump motor relay drive circuit
3. Intermittent interruption in the pump motor drive circuit

Refer to page 19-71

Code 1-3

Diagnosis: High pressure leakage
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the frequent ON/OFF cycle of the pressure switch signal is detected, that is during the engine in motion. The count is erased when the ABS functions.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Leaking outlet valve
2. Leaking relief valve
3. Poor contact in pressure switch circuit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the pressure switch
2. Intermittent interruption in the pressure switch circuit

Refer to page 19-77

Code 1-4

Diagnosis: Pressure switch
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the pressure switch ON signal is always detected at every initial diagnosis. The count is erased when the ABS control unit detects the pressure switch OFF signal.

Diagnostic Period: Initial

Probable Cause:
1. Short to body ground between the ABS control unit and pressure switch
2. Pressure switch stuck ON
3. Faulty ABS control unit

Refer to page 19-79

Code 1-8

Diagnosis: High pressure system
This diagnosis is performed when the pressure switch is OFF at the initial diagnosis. The pump motor is operated to turn the pressure switch ON, and then the solenoid valve is momentarily activated. The ABS indicator light is turned on if the pressure switch signal changes from ON to OFF.

Diagnostic Period: Initial

Probable Cause:
1. Accumulator gas leakage
2. Changed relief valve set pressure
3. Rear outlet solenoid valve late to close
4. Changed pressure switch set pressure

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. The ABS indicator light may not come on in normal climate when it comes on in very cold climate.

Refer to page 19-80

Code 2-1

Diagnosis: Parking brake
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the parking brake ON signal is detected for more than 30 seconds while driving.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Low fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir
2. Open circuit between the Back-up Lights/Meter Lights (10A) fuse and brake system light
3. Blown brake system light bulb
4. Open circuit or short to body ground between the brake system light and ABS control unit
5. Parking brake switch stuck ON
6. Short to body ground between the brake system light and parking brake switch
7. Brake fluid level switch stuck ON
8. Short to body ground between the brake system light and brake fluid level switch
9. Faulty ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Driving with the parking brake applied – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-81

Code 3-1

Diagnosis: Right-front Pulser
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the wheel sensor signal is periodically missing during driving.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Chipped pulser gear
2. Improperly installed wheel sensor

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor

Refer to page 19-85

Code 3-2

Diagnosis: Left-front Pulser
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the wheel sensor signal is periodically missing during driving.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Chipped pulser gear
2. Improperly installed wheel sensor

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor

Refer to page 19-85

Code 3-4

Diagnosis: Right-rear Pulser
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the wheel sensor signal is periodically missing during driving.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Chipped pulser gear
2. Improperly installed wheel sensor

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor

Refer to page 19-85

Code 3-8

Diagnosis: Left-rear Pulser
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the wheel sensor signal is periodically missing during driving.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Chipped pulser gear
2. Improperly installed wheel sensor

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor

Refer to page 19-85

Code 3-12

Diagnosis: Different diameter tire
The ABS indicator light may be turned on while driving when one, two or three different diameter tires are installed. This diagnosis is not performed when the parking brake switch is ON.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Different diameter tire installed

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear: (No problem)

Refer to page 19-85

Code 4-1

Diagnosis: Right-front wheel sensor
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the wheel sensor signal is missing at speeds of 6 mph (10 km/h) or more. This diagnosis is not performed when the parking brake switch is ON.

Diagnostic Period: Individual & Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Open circuit, internal short or short to body ground in the wheel sensor
2. Open circuit or short to body ground in the positive (+) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
3. Open circuit or short to body ground in the negative (-) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
4. Positive (+) wire shorted to the negative (-) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
5. Lose connector or poor contact of terminals
6. Improper wheel sensor air gap
7. Faulty ABS control unit
8. Missing pulser
9. Modulator does not decrease pressure properly

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor
2. Wheel spin of both front wheels (only for Code 4-8)) – (No problem)
3. The transmission downshifted excessively (only for Code 4-1 and 4-2) – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-86

Code 4-2

Diagnosis: Left-front wheel sensor
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the wheel sensor signal is missing at speeds of 6 mph (10 km/h) or more. This diagnosis is not performed when the parking brake switch is ON.

Diagnostic Period: Individual & Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Open circuit, internal short or short to body ground in the wheel sensor
2. Open circuit or short to body ground in the positive (+) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
3. Open circuit or short to body ground in the negative (-) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
4. Positive (+) wire shorted to the negative (-) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
5. Lose connector or poor contact of terminals
6. Improper wheel sensor air gap
7. Faulty ABS control unit
8. Missing pulser
9. Modulator does not decrease pressure properly

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor
2. Wheel spin of both front wheels (only for Code 4-8)) – (No problem)
3. The transmission downshifted excessively (only for Code 4-1 and 4-2) – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-89

Code 4-4

Diagnosis: Right-rear wheel sensor
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the wheel sensor signal is missing at speeds of 6 mph (10 km/h) or more. This diagnosis is not performed when the parking brake switch is ON.

Diagnostic Period: Individual & Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Open circuit, internal short or short to body ground in the wheel sensor
2. Open circuit or short to body ground in the positive (+) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
3. Open circuit or short to body ground in the negative (-) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
4. Positive (+) wire shorted to the negative (-) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
5. Lose connector or poor contact of terminals
6. Improper wheel sensor air gap
7. Faulty ABS control unit
8. Missing pulser
9. Modulator does not decrease pressure properly

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor
2. Wheel spin of both front wheels (only for Code 4-8)) – (No problem)
3. The transmission downshifted excessively (only for Code 4-1 and 4-2) – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-92

Code 4-8

Diagnosis: Left-rear wheel sensor
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the wheel sensor signal is missing at speeds of 6 mph (10 km/h) or more. This diagnosis is not performed when the parking brake switch is ON.

Diagnostic Period: Individual & Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Open circuit, internal short or short to body ground in the wheel sensor
2. Open circuit or short to body ground in the positive (+) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
3. Open circuit or short to body ground in the negative (-) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
4. Positive (+) wire shorted to the negative (-) wire between the wheel sensor and ABS control unit
5. Lose connector or poor contact of terminals
6. Improper wheel sensor air gap
7. Faulty ABS control unit
8. Missing pulser
9. Modulator does not decrease pressure properly

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor
2. Wheel spin of both front wheels (only for Code 4-8)) – (No problem)
3. The transmission downshifted excessively (only for Code 4-1 and 4-2) – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-95

Code 5-0

Diagnosis: Right/Left Rear wheel lock
The ABS indicator light is turned on when either or both rear wheels lock and the wheel sensor signal is missing during driving. This diagnosis is not performed when the parking brake switch is ON.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Open circuit, internal short or short to body ground in the wheel sensor system
2. Rear brake drag
3. Modulator does not decrease pressure properly
4. Faulty ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor
2. Wheel spin by operating the parking brake while the parking switch is stuck OFF
3. Car spun out – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-98

Code 5-4

Diagnosis: Right-rear wheel lock
The ABS indicator light is turned on when either or both rear wheels lock and the wheel sensor signal is missing during driving. This diagnosis is not performed when the parking brake switch is ON.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Open circuit, internal short or short to body ground in the wheel sensor system
2. Rear brake drag
3. Modulator does not decrease pressure properly
4. Faulty ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor
2. Wheel spin by operating the parking brake while the parking switch is stuck OFF
3. Car spun out – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-98

Code 5-8

Diagnosis: Left-rear wheel lock
The ABS indicator light is turned on when either or both rear wheels lock and the wheel sensor signal is missing during driving. This diagnosis is not performed when the parking brake switch is ON.

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Open circuit, internal short or short to body ground in the wheel sensor system
2. Rear brake drag
3. Modulator does not decrease pressure properly
4. Faulty ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor
2. Wheel spin by operating the parking brake while the parking switch is stuck OFF
3. Car spun out – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-98

Code 6-0

Diagnosis: Front/Rear Fail-safe relay
The ABS indicator light is turned on when battery voltage is detected at the solenoid terminal before the fail-safe relays are turned on at the initial diagnosis

Diagnostic Period: Initial

Probable Cause:
1. Short to power in the relay drive circuit between the fail-safe relay and ABS control unit
2. Faulty relay drive transistor (ON) in the ABS control unit
3. Fail-safe relay stuck ON
4. Short to power in the solenoid drive circuits between the fail-safe relay and ABS control unit

Refer to page 19-100

Code 6-1

Diagnosis: Front Fail-safe relay
The ABS indicator light is turned on when battery voltage is detected at the solenoid terminal before the fail-safe relays are turned on at the initial diagnosis

Diagnostic Period: Initial

Probable Cause:
1. Short to power in the relay drive circuit between the fail-safe relay and ABS control unit
2. Faulty relay drive transistor (ON) in the ABS control unit
3. Fail-sage relay stuck ON
4. Short to power in the solenoid drive circuits between the fail-safe relay and ABS control unit

Refer to page 19-102

Code 6-4

Diagnosis: Rear Fail-safe relay
The ABS indicator light is turned on when battery voltage is detected at the solenoid terminal before the fail-safe relays are turned on at the initial diagnosis

Diagnostic Period: Initial

Probable Cause:
1. Short to power in the relay drive circuit between the fail-safe relay and ABS control unit
2. Faulty relay drive transistor (ON) in the ABS control unit
3. Fail-safe relay stuck ON
4. Short to power in the solenoid drive circuits between the fail-safe relay and ABS control unit

Refer to page 19-105

Code 7-1

Diagnosis: Right-front Solenoid
Each solenoid valve is momentarily activated at the initial diagnosis and when the car starts off. The ABS indicator light is turned on when battery voltage is detected at the solenoid terminal.
OR
The ABS indicator light is turned on when zero volts is detected at the solenoid terminal while the solenoid OFF signal is detected at the regular diagnosis.

Diagnostic Period: Initial & Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Fail-safe relay stuck OFF
2. Open circuit in the solenoid drive circuit between the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box and ABS control unit
3. Short to body ground in the solenoid drive circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit
4. Faulty solenoid drive transistor (ON) in the ABS control unit
5. Short to power in the solenoid drive circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit
6. Faulty solenoid drive transistor (OFF) in the ABS control unit
7. Short to power in the drive circuit inside the solenoid
8. Short to the outlet circuit in the inlet circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the solenoid valve drive circuit
2. Intermittent interruption in the solenoid valve ground circuit
3. Intermittent interruption in the fail-safe relay circuit

Refer to page 19-107

Code 7-2

Diagnosis: Left-front Solenoid
Each solenoid valve is momentarily activated at the initial diagnosis and when the car starts off. The ABS indicator light is turned on when battery voltage is detected at the solenoid terminal.
OR
The ABS indicator light is turned on when zero volts is detected at the solenoid terminal while the solenoid OFF signal is detected at the regular diagnosis.

Diagnostic Period: Initial & Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Fail-safe relay stuck OFF
2. Open circuit in the solenoid drive circuit between the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box and ABS control unit
3. Short to body ground in the solenoid drive circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit
4. Faulty solenoid drive transistor (ON) in the ABS control unit
5. Short to power in the solenoid drive circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit
6. Faulty solenoid drive transistor (OFF) in the ABS control unit
7. Short to power in the drive circuit inside the solenoid
8. Short to the outlet circuit in the inlet circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the solenoid valve drive circuit
2. Intermittent interruption in the solenoid valve ground circuit
3. Intermittent interruption in the fail-safe relay circuit

Refer to page 19-111

Code 7-4

Diagnosis: Rear Solenoid
Each solenoid valve is momentarily activated at the initial diagnosis and when the car starts off. The ABS indicator light is turned on when battery voltage is detected at the solenoid terminal.
OR
The ABS indicator light is turned on when zero volts is detected at the solenoid terminal while the solenoid OFF signal is detected at the regular diagnosis.

Diagnostic Period: Initial & Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Fail-safe relay stuck OFF
2. Open circuit in the solenoid drive circuit between the Under-hood ABS Fuse/Relay box and ABS control unit
3. Short to body ground in the solenoid drive circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit
4. Faulty solenoid drive transistor (ON) in the ABS control unit
5. Short to power in the solenoid drive circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit
6. Faulty solenoid drive transistor (OFF) in the ABS control unit
7. Short to power in the drive circuit inside the solenoid
8. Short to the outlet circuit in the inlet circuit between the solenoid and ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the solenoid valve drive circuit
2. Intermittent interruption in the solenoid valve ground circuit
3. Intermittent interruption in the fail-safe relay circuit

Refer to page 19-118

Code 8-1

Diagnosis: ABS function
The ABS indicator light is turned on when the ABS functions continuously

Diagnostic Period: Regular

Probable Cause:
1. Wheel sensor signal disappears at speeds of 6 mph (10 km/h) or less
2. Faulty ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear:
1. Intermittent interruption in the wheel sensor
2. Rough road driving – (No problem)

Refer to page 19-125

Code 8-2

Diagnosis: ECU comparison
The ABS indicator light is turned on when there is a difference between the ECU data

Diagnostic Period: Initial & Regular

Probable Cause: Faulty ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear: (No problem)

Refer to page 19-126

Code 8-4

Diagnosis: ABS Integrated Circuit
The ABS indicator light is turned on when there is an abnormality in the integrated circuit at the regular diagnosis

Diagnostic Period: Initial & Regular

Probable Cause: Faulty ABS control unit

Probable Cause When Symptom Does Not Reappear: (No problem)

Refer to page 19-126




Source: Helms 1997 ACCORD Service Manual P/N 61SV405

Keywords: Honda ABS Codes ALB Anti-Locking Braking System Anti Lock Brake CEL Code OBD-2 OBD-II OBD-I OBD-1 Light Matteu

[NASSEAMACCORD]

how do you throw a code, i found the plug under my glove box but its a six prong plug, where do i insert wires and were do they go to, i came from a cb were there is only 2 plugs so it was from one to the other instead of 6 different prongs???

[James Matteu]

You pull ABS codes the same way you pull ECU codes, same blue plug. The orange connector your refering to (6-pin) is for the Honda ABS Tester. It is a unit that toggles the solenoids and sends data to the control unit to simulate road conditions. Ive never seen one and I would love to get a peek at the circuit board of one.

[DaddyCat]

Hi James, inspired by you I have disassembled my Nissin ALB3 and cleaned it and while the cleaning has helped my code 1-3 I noticed the o-rings show wear. Do you have the sizes, material, durometer and a source? I only removed and cleaned the 6 solenoids on the side of the modulator and the check valve/piston above the motor.
Thank you if you can help.
Joe

[James Matteu]

I haven't selected a material, so I cannot speak from experience. I was going to try EPDM since that's what we use at my job (chemical plant). From my experience with EPDM, I know it when you exceed its operating range, in temp or pH, it CAN permanently deform but will not rip, shred, or disintegrate; but then again, so can teflon in high heat. Based on the Nissin ALB-3 o-rings' appearance and feel, my guess is they're either EPDM or butyl. According to the eFunda compatability chart for automotive brake fluid:

Good, both for static and dynamic seals:
Aflas a/k/a Tetrafluoroethelene propylene, TFE/P - a type of fluoroelastomer (FKM)
Butyl
Ethylene-Propylene Rubber (EPDM) - heat resistance up to 149° C, cold flexibility down to -40° C
Styrene Butadiene
Virgin Teflon

Fair, usually OK for static seals
Hydrogenated Nitrile
Polysulfide

Poor:
Vamac
Buna-N (Nitrile)
Epichlorohydrin
Fluorocarbon
Fluorosilicone
Natural Rubber
Neoprene
Polyacrylate
Cast Polyurethane

No Data:
Chemraz
Hypalon
Kalrez
Millable Polyurethane
Silicone Rubber - per fluidseals.com silicone has poor abrasion resistance

As far as measuring, I started to measure them and stopped 'cause my micrometer has an unacceptable margin of error for such small measurements. I have to obtain new instrumentation before I can complete that task; though they all appear to have a 2mm thickness.

As far as how stiff the material needs to be, according to wiki hydraulic o-rings range from 70-90 on an Shore-A scale. EPDM o-rings can be made to whatever durometer standard you request, though, if you tell them this is for a aircraft/automotive braking system, they will likely suggest the 70 std. EPDM.

As far as a source, I have not ordered mine for lack of proper measurements. The o-rings themselves are dirt cheap (example: amazon.com 318 EPDM O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 1" ID, 1-3/8" OD, 3/16" Width $2.79 (Pack of 100)) I think the hardest task is finding someone willing to sell you the sizes you need at small quantities.

[Velocifero]

lol gaddamn James! Good shit.