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Old 09-04-2013, 01:43 AM   #1
heretoaskstuff
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Question Cb7's mysterious symptoms..

Okay, I already know I need a new o2 sensor, but does anyone know what is causing my car to cut off randomly and not want to start back up? We've replaced the ignition and it still does it, we have had someone change the fuel pumps and it seemed to start doing it a little after that. The car was lowered on eBay sleeves on stock struts (not my fault, a family member did it but its back to stock springs and new struts) and I think the bouncing might've knocked something loose like maybe the fuel pump? If anyone knows please let me know, I'm new to this site btw so sorry if this is an already answered question.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:00 AM   #2
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When it doesn't start, do you have spark? If not then either the ignitor, coil, or whole distributor.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:45 AM   #3
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When it doesn't start, do you have spark? If not then either the ignitor, coil, or whole distributor.
I have spark, the distributor and coils are new and just replaced the ignition switch a week ago.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:56 AM   #4
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So you do have spark when its not starting?

Check and wiggle the battery connections when the car is running.

Check for codes

when the car dies turn the key on and turn on the fan blower and radio. Are they working?
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:07 AM   #5
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So you do have spark when its not starting?

Check and wiggle the battery connections when the car is running.

Check for codes

when the car dies turn the key on and turn on the fan blower and radio. Are they working?
Yes, radio and everything works even when it cuts off while I'm driving. Sometimes it'll be a quick off and on when I'm doing like 50 on the highway but if I'm any slower I have to push in the clutch and it cuts on when it's engaged. The only cel code I'm getting is #41 for the oxygen sensor heater.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:03 AM   #6
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Its your igniter unit that's failing. either that or the connections are horribly corroded
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:00 AM   #7
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When you say you replaced the ignition. You mean the switch that turns the car on and off? or something else?

When my ignition switch was bad this was the problem I had. If the switch was working everything checked out fine. Then one day it just quit.

OOPS, missed that. My bet would be the ignitor as well. Simialr symptoms as the ignition switch.

I've gotten to where just about the only parts I buy are beck/arnley and I have good results with them, but yes they cost a little more and you have to wait to get them. Order them from rock auto and you will pay less for them then the parts house brand and far less headaches.


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Old 09-04-2013, 08:24 AM   #8
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The igniter could be the problem.
I had this problem a few weeks ago where my car died running fine and i had to kick start it.If it is your ignitor , you will not get a code until its completely dead.Then you will get a code 14.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:57 AM   #9
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Since so many people have already attempted to help you, I won't delete this thread. However, in the future, make your thread titles more descriptive. At least give some clue as to what the problem is. "mysterious symptoms" will just get your thread deleted. This site is intended to be a searchable database of information (not that anyone bothers searching... it would've helped you, in fact...) not your personal helpdesk. Nobody is going to be searching for "mysterious symptoms".
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:39 PM   #10
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Alright I'll make it more descriptive. But we've replaced the ignition switch that turns the car on and off. With the key. They said that was the problem but after paying $150 and having it put in it still cuts off and doesn't want to turn over.
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:04 PM   #11
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Not trying to sound like a noob, but how old are your batteries? Somebody asked about your battery and didn't quite get a clear answer... Also, how's the condition of your alternator? Your local auto parts store has a tester to see if you have a faulty battery or alternator, both electrical related, and it seems you might have an electrical problem besides ignition...
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:42 PM   #12
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Not trying to sound like a noob, but how old are your batteries? Somebody asked about your battery and didn't quite get a clear answer... Also, how's the condition of your alternator? Your local auto parts store has a tester to see if you have a faulty battery or alternator, both electrical related, and it seems you might have an electrical problem besides ignition...
My battery and alternator are new, both have 50k miles on them but I'll go by my local store and have them test it to see if they're working like they should be. It did it on my way to work today, it's like the engine just shuts down. All other electric things stay on.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:08 PM   #13
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One of my Accords did something similar. It would start up fine and be running, and then just quit. Sometimes it would be while it was running, other times I would park, and then it would not start back up when I got back in. It would crank but not turn over. Lights, radio, etc would still work. It would go for days with no issues, and then out of the blue, it would quit again. Replaced the main relay and that took care of the problem.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:43 PM   #14
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Be sure your battery and ground connections are all clean and tight. A no-start situation can occur with a brand new battery if your cables are covered in corrosion.
A mixture of water and baking soda will clean them right up.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:05 PM   #15
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Be sure your battery and ground connections are all clean and tight. A no-start situation can occur with a brand new battery if your cables are covered in corrosion.
A mixture of water and baking soda will clean them right up.
Some wire connections are a little corroded so I'll do this in the morning before I take it to a shop to test the battery and alternator. But like, itll crank and turn over but it will not run. It's like it isn't getting gas but it is, we checked the fuel line and fuel rail even the fuel injectors and they're all fine.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:09 PM   #16
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Corroded battery connections can do that. I had a similar issue... turned, but wouldn't start. A push-start worked (manual transmission). I replaced the battery and starter, same result. Cleaned the cables... and it worked perfectly.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:10 PM   #17
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One of my Accords did something similar. It would start up fine and be running, and then just quit. Sometimes it would be while it was running, other times I would park, and then it would not start back up when I got back in. It would crank but not turn over. Lights, radio, etc would still work. It would go for days with no issues, and then out of the blue, it would quit again. Replaced the main relay and that took care of the problem.
That's what I though, they bypassed the clutch switch and it apparently had the same problems it's having now before they bypassed it.
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:38 AM   #18
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Corroded battery connections can do that. I had a similar issue... turned, but wouldn't start. A push-start worked (manual transmission). I replaced the battery and starter, same result. Cleaned the cables... and it worked perfectly.
I think I'll just replace the cables all together because the ones on it are original and are a bit loose, especially the positive terminal. And they're corroded a good bit.
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:45 AM   #19
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If you have spark, move on to fuel. I had a Caddy that did the same thing and it turned out to be the fuel injectors. Though the Caddy was sluggish as well and it sounds like yours operate just fine outside of cutting out. Don't rule out the Main Relay though either. Good luck.

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Old 09-05-2013, 05:34 PM   #20
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So I took it to the shop and they tested the battery and alternator and they said it works just fine, I told them the problems I was having and they looked at me like I was crazy until I took one of them for a ride. They don't have a clue what's causing it either.
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