How(trick) to get LBJ line up with Knuckle/Hub?

[zedjr10]

You’ll need to know how it goes together, and can be a bit frustrating when putting the bearings in the cage. You should be able to do it with snap ring pliers, ball peen, and a lot of paper towels. Go to O’Advancenapazone and get a few CV grease packs. Be careful cause if you rip a boot, you’re gonna have to get a new one.

I always tell people if you’re not breaking shit, you’re not learning. Take it as a win cause you’re better for it now.

Edit: sorry I didn’t see you’re buying a new axle. It’s the same, just connects to the intermediate shaft instead of the transmission itself. Good luck, man. Sucks to hear this is whooping on you.

It was my own stupid fault. I gotta remember to be careful pulling that hub off next time. I bet i never do that again. I think i am just going to get a new axle at napa. I have changed an axle before on passengers side. THe boots are getting close to breaking and i don't want to mess with something i have no ideal about. Thanks for everyone's help on here. If it wasn't for the people at this site i would either be stuck or paying someone to do all this.

[Raf99]

Is it simple. Cause if it isn't. AM just going to replace with a new 70 dollar axle. AM fkn beat. I also just want to do whatever is quickest now. Am so effn beat. THe axle on it is old and a reman. The boots are starting to dry rot so am sort of figuring of just replacing with new one. What a fkn nightmare i cause myself. I have changed axle on passengers side. IS it the same for drivers side. I have a manual tranny.

We've all been there. Don't buy a new axle as it can come un-done just as quick as the old one. You need to take the axle out and may have to remove the boot to get stuff back in place. Use a zip tie to secure the rubber boot if needed. But we are here to help of course. If you got a new axle you'd have to remove the LBJ (lower ball joint) anyways. That means you can take this axle out and just fix it.

When you have time, go take an axle apart. You need to see what we are talking about. It's 3 things, which only go in one way to the steel boot and they all have to align at once to get it in. One of those "I need 3 hands" job.

I've been where you are with the frustration too. I was younger, improper tools, no manuals, on a driveway, fighting rust and crap and shit breaking and fack!! And all I can say is .....

#1 = have the right tools for the job! Before you start the job! An hour job can take several if you don't have the proper. I was once young and foolish and thought things like

"this hammer is big enough and the only one I have (regular hammer)"
"vice grips will do"
"should be fairly easy"
"we'll use something"
"breaker bar? what for?

Long before the days of owning a pickle fork, 5 & 10 lbs hammers, proper jacks and stands, bands, clamps, 12pt sockets, etc. Back when I would tighten all bolts by hand and not lookup specs. "should be tight enough, put extra mayo on the wheel ones!" :P haha

It's amazing even now I pickup on things from mechanics. Knows he's doing a axle job, puts all the required tools on the cart and rolls it over. Bangs off each step no problem.

*Zing, Zing, bang bang, move rotor out of the way, bang = axle out.

First time I removed an axle it prob took me 2 hours. No lie.


#2 - use a manual

[zedjr10]

all done. Lower Control arm, new axle, ES sway bar bushings Prothane sway bar links on both sides. She rides great now. Pretty responsive doing 30 and no squeaking or stiffness. Who cares my back hurts soo bad i can barely walk. All worth it. Not even sure if i need an alignment. Drives perfectly str8t it seems.

[F22Chris]

Most shops do free alignment checks. Do that, and base the need of an alignment off the results. You might not need it, who knows. It’s a good rule of thumb to get an alignment after doing anything suspension/steering related. Glad you got it back together!

[ukemike]

I've gotten a cv joint back together without removing it from the car. It works best if the bearings are still a bit engaged. So put it in neutral and rotate the wheel a little bit. If the cup turns this isn't too hard.

There are three bearings on the end of the axle and they slide into three grooves on the inside of the cup. See this illustration:



If you disconnect the spring fork from the lower control arm, you can get enough freedom of movement to get the axle lined up a bit straighter. I use a jack under the brake rotor to lift the knuckle and axle up. It helps to have some extra hands, but I've done it alone. Then get a light hammer and tap on the end of the axle. It will go back in. If the bearings didn't fall apart it will work. If not you'll be able to tell as soon as you drive it *CLUNK*. I've found it is a little easier to tap the axle back in if you have removed the axle nut, which gives the axle a bit more back and forth freedom of movement.

Probably people will say I am crazy and reckless, but I've done it and then raced on that joint. Give it a try and if it doesn't work you'll need a new axle anyway.

After you've got it back in pay more attention to the inner boot when you are re-assembling the suspension.

[zedjr10]

Most shops do free alignment checks. Do that, and base the need of an alignment off the results. You might not need it, who knows. It’s a good rule of thumb to get an alignment after doing anything suspension/steering related. Glad you got it back together!

Yeah am going it check it at least. I might do some other suspension/steering work before. It is amazing how much better the steering wheel feels now and it already felt good before. I was a little worried about those sway bar bushings from ES. They are much less beefier than the ones that were on it. I think i got a good mix of rubber bushings for LCA and poly for sway bushings and links. Feels pretty tight and smooth. I think prothane is too rigid for me for anything else than sway bar. I got a pair of radius rod bushings from ES and prothane. It is a noticeable difference in the rigidity between the two. Prothane being the more rigid.