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Old 04-30-2019, 04:59 PM   #1
RabbittCB7
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Question need some expert advice on my swap! H22A1, USDM P13, bogs and bucks

Hi all, this is my first post (Sorry if it ended up in the wrong place, I wasn't able to post in "Swaps"). I have a 93 CB7 (EX) 4Dr, built in USA. I grabbed a 92 prelude H22A1, and ended up having to go online for a P13 ECU since the wreckers didn't have any here. I have everything in running condition, ive double checked the timing belt and made sure it was installed in a counter clockwise fashion, the marks still line up however even as I play with the angle of the distributor , it just wont run right. I completely rebuilt this motor before swapping it in, I know there are no vaccum leaks or fuel delivery issues. My thoughts are : Is are something I missed - wiring wise? Perhaps the P13 ecu isn't a direct PnP and requires some wiring to be changed in order to idle properly? Also, I have deleted the FIV, Secondaries , unplugged the EGR, got rid of all my evap crap (No emissions in Alberta) and looped the "Deleted" vac lines coming out of the IM. I'm sure there have been many USDM H22 swaps with USDM P13 in a USDM CB7 …. I couldn't find much info for wiring other than how to add vtec… any help would be greatly appreciated as I am at my wits end with this project !

I think the place to start is figuring out; Pinout / locations on the factory accord harness, pinout for the USDM P13, and whatever changes that are required in order to run the motor with this harness and computer … I heard something about the heated O2 sensor being re-pinned to EGR? but my EGR isn't hooked up … so IDK :'C pls help, you will be rewarded with burnouts in your honor when I get the old girl finally running proper and off buddy's farm for good !

Last edited by RabbittCB7; 04-30-2019 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 05-01-2019, 07:53 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RabbittCB7 View Post
got rid of all my evap crap (No emissions in Alberta) and looped the "Deleted" vac lines coming out of the IM. I'm sure there have been many USDM H22 swaps
i have tryed this delete and it ended up the same way . put it back and ran fine.
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:02 PM   #3
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I know this isn't the same swap, but when I did my B16 in my CRX, I downloaded a complete pin detail of the ECU and checked continuity to every single sensor/plug and ground. I found two injector wires that were flip flopped in my harness and one other wire that had a weak signal that ended up the sheathing was worn down in a spot.
Once I corrected those things, and I buttoned everything up, it fired right up.

Did you buy an adapter harness or did you move pins around on your stock harness?
Run through the systems: Fuel, spark, timing and confirm they are all correct. Sorry I couldn't be of more help with the exact swap.
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Old 05-01-2019, 10:31 PM   #4
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So what’s it doing exactly? And is it throwing any codes. Besides code 12? I ran a p13 on my H22a swap and never had an issue. You did the swap yourself?
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:36 PM   #5
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I'm getting only two codes surprisingly. perhaps it hasn't run long enough to detect other faults. I have code 21 and 41, I haven't hooked up O2 yet cause I have to connect the prelude manifold to my accord exhaust still, and vtec isn't wired yet. I just added MAP and knock sensor, and no change. It runs very rich, sounds like its misfiring, and as you advance/retard the timing it either wants to high idle or just bog out and die completely.

I did the swap myself, no harness changes except for added wire for knock sensor.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:38 AM   #6
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You need to get the O2 sensor hooked up. This is how the computer determines how much or little fuel to feed to the engine. Without this critical piece of information it doesn't surprise me that the engine won't run right.
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
You need to get the O2 sensor hooked up. This is how the computer determines how much or little fuel to feed to the engine. Without this critical piece of information it doesn't surprise me that the engine won't run right.
I thought for the first 5 mins until it reaches temp, it ignores the O2 signal and runs on the fuel map? I could be wrong. but I don't want to spend $300 on an exhaust header until its running properly. Sounds to me like a misfire? You could be right, I should find a way to hook it up
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:44 PM   #8
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You could take it to a shop and have them weld an o2 bung in. Then you don’t need a new header to troubleshoot. It shouldn’t cost no where near 200.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:57 PM   #9
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I am the shop lol, its way out on buddies farm and I don't want to drive it until it runs normal. If I can manage to bum a ride out there, I'm gonna try a cap and rotor today , and an ignitor if I can find one. is a B18C1 dizzy the same, can I use it for troubleshooting? I may also try the old PT3 and see if that makes any difference . . . I ordered a header on ebay for $130 shipped , I guess that's it for ideas on my end I hope I can get it running tonight , this build has been going on for 3 years I just want it to run right already so I can build boost and I'm also down a daily as my 97 ZJ broke a rod . . .
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:42 PM   #10
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I know that OBD 0 (86-92ish) ecu's ignore the O2 sensor reading and run in open loop until the engine reaches a certain temp, OBD I (92+) ecu's use heated O2 sensors that read values immediately... not sure what you're running. I'm still new to the accord info. but I'm with Rilas, it needs to be there. That's a major player in the electronic side of operations. Good luck on the install of the newly acquired header.
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:35 AM   #11
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No. you need to hook up the O2 sensor. No wonder i t won't idle correctly.
That is obviously why it is "rich". it is just dumping fuel because the
computer has no idea what the air fuel ratio is..

& with the EGR unplugged it is gonna run even more rich..
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Old 06-18-2019, 01:08 PM   #12
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Update

I have installed the new manifold and a 4 wire o2. I managed to clear every code except vtec, but it still wont run, or idle. You can give it some throttle to keep it alive but it misfires and backfires horribly, on both the P13 and PT3 computers. I checked the timing and did a valve adjustment, I have tried different rotations on the distributor with the ECU jumpered and no codes (on PT3 because it is non-vtec, but still a 2.2l with a slightly richer map) it still wont idle on its own and has a horrible random cylinder misfire. After "running" the motor for about 30 seconds I shut it off and when I took off the oil cap I could smell gas in the oil. It leanpops really bad and sounds kinda dangerously unsteady at 2000 rpm. I've changed my oil I think 4 times already since I rebuilt the block and head and I'm actually pretty upset with myself for not being able to figure this out
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Old 06-18-2019, 01:47 PM   #13
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If the timing belt is correct, then it sounds like a firing issue. Have you confirmed that the spark plug wires are in the right order on the distributor?
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Old 06-18-2019, 02:49 PM   #14
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I have the wires on the dizzy as;

34
12

w/ external coil. I'm starting to wonder if its a bad ground somewhere. Possibly not enough voltage to the ignition components because I smell a ton of raw gas, and freshly cleaned spark plugs will come out black again after a few seconds of running
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Old 06-18-2019, 03:52 PM   #15
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Have you done a compression test? And not questioning you on your timing skills. As I recently put my timing 180 out and also 1 tooth off but you verified all the timing markers are lined up at #1 TDC? And that #1 is on the driver side not passenger side? Again not questioning you, I just did this on my built motor not even a month ago.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:34 PM   #16
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I haven't done a compression test, ill do one next time im up there. I just don't want to wash my cylinders down with fuel more than I already am. All marks line up at cyl 1 TDC (drivers, timing side) with arrows up. I even made a "Viewing hole" in the bottom cover to check the crank and its right on the money. I will try also using the guts out of my F22 dizzy to see if that makes a difference, since all I haven't replaced at this point is the dizzy and the injectors which im hoping to not have to touch again
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:48 AM   #17
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when you do the compression test you can unplug the resistor box so the injectors won't spray.
another good visual test when finding TDC, take the spark plug out and put something that will fit thru the hole in and extend far enough out so that you can watch it rise and fall with the cylinder. That'll help confirm what grumpy was saying about being 180 off.
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Old 06-19-2019, 01:17 PM   #18
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I actually used a long screwdriver in the spark plug holes as well to confirm. I do not believe its 180 out, or it wouldn't even fire at all. When I did the valve adjustment the lobes were facing their up positions with piston tdc, which are more diagonally opposed rather than straight up like \o o/

forgot I could just unplug the resister box lol. compression test hopefully if I can get up there today, along with some fresh grounds and f22 distributor guts... not sure what else I can do but I'm just stunned over the fact I cant get it to run after all the work I put in to rebuilding that h22.

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Old 06-19-2019, 04:37 PM   #19
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You're right that if it was 180 out it probably wouldn't fire at all. It sounds more like the cams are off a tooth or more, if it was mechanical. Otherwise it's gremlins in your wiring
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Old 06-20-2019, 01:45 PM   #20
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SO I went out there, added some better grounds and double checked sensor wiring. Seems like everything is where it should be but its kindof impossible to know without a harness guide. Theres a few plug ends not connected from the accord harness, I think some of them were for the A/T. I don't have any CEL with the PT3 but when I plug in the P13, I have a code 21 vtec. Havent been able to sort that out. I had it barely "running" earlier and then I took the dizzy off to test another one off my buddy's H22 parts pile, but the 8 pin connector wouldn't plug in to the 8 pin on my accord harness. I put my old distributor back on and it wouldn't even start, or try to. I confirmed there is spark, and there is fuel, and when the engine is turning over you can hear it has lots of compression. I took the spark plugs out again and they were already soaked with fuel. I'm starting to think its a distributor problem, can I take the accord distributor guts and put them in the H22 distributor? both are external coil. I'm not sure what else to check since I've already gone over everything else a handful of times.

my cams line up to each others marks perfectly , which is why I'm inclined to believe the timing is OK. Correct me if I'm wrong but a code 21 would put the P13 into limp mode, correct? I need to know what would cause a code 21
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