cx racing turbo kit

[jdm92_accorn]

has anyone had good luck with cx racing? im planning on taking the motor thats in the cb now and boosting it and putting it in a 4dr and building me a stroker motor for the cb. this kit is for a 1g eclipse and looks pretty complete and is only $600-800. i know alot of 240 guys that love their exhausts and intercoolers but i didnt know about the turbos.

[deevergote]

You'd be better off getting a kit made for the CB from Treadstone. If you're going to buy a cheap kit for a DSM, you're better off just piecing together your own with used parts... the same amount of modification would be needed.

[burntmushu]

their bov caused alot of surges on my turbo.

[deevergote]

With a cheap kit, I'd think it'd be wise to upgrade the BOV and wastegate... and be prepared to rebuild the turbo in a relatively short period of time.
I'm sure the intercoolers aren't the most efficient, but they should work. Piping is piping. The cheap manifolds often crack, and the gaskets may leak...


Remember, if you're buying a kit for a cheap price, then the person selling the kit assembled it for even less... and the people selling them the parts to assemble the kit (as you can be 100% sure that they didn't build any of it...) sold those parts even cheaper... and STILL made a profit. Parts that are made for so little money are very likely made using inferior materials and craftsmanship.
My advice when buying a cheap turbo kit is to not expect much... and replace (or at least keep an eye on) anything that would do serious damage to the engine should it fail.

[rexload]

Some pointers
1. Like mentioned above, when buying no-name parts, they may need a rebuild much sooner than name-brand parts, especially when you start turning the boost up.
2. If you buy that DSM kit, you still have to get the manifold redrilled just so you know
3. If you go cheap, go with a cast manifold, they are much more durable than cheap tubular manifolds
4. CX racing turbos are good for lower boost applications and if you take care of them
5. Cheap kits come with crappy oil lines and fittings. I personally wouldn't trust them.
6. Internal wastegate = fail IMO because it is so much better and so easy to do external wastegate
7. Cheap blow-off valves are meeh... 1G DSM BOV -FTW
8. Piece together the kit yourself. Even if you have to cheap out on some parts, you can still have some quality parts by shopping around and looking for good deals.

[deevergote]

Cheap out on the stuff that won't do damage when it fails... at most, it'll just be a frustration. If you cheap out on the important stuff (like the wastegate... a spike to 25psi might be fun for the half-second you get with it before you get a piston in the nuts...)

[rexload]

That's why there is boost-cut in any tuning software set your boost cut to 15psi(example) and no matter what happens to the wastegate you won't get past 15psi.

[deevergote]

How does that work? Does it just kill power to the engine so it's not spooling the turbo anymore?

[rexload]

Fuel cut when it sees too much boost. You'll know right away to let off. haha
I forgot to connect my wastegate a long time ago and it obviously did its job and saved my engine

[deevergote]

I would think a fuel cut while in boost would be cause for some serious detonation!

[Joey GT-R]

Very true, rexload. Like for instance the boost solenoid that goes with Hondata is made for this exact situation. It's kind of like having two safeguards, the wastegate, and electronic cut. Throw in a boost controller as well if you want to add even more redundancy.

[deevergote]

Most boost controllers just adjust the wastegate... unless I'm REALLY behind the times here...

[rexload]

I am no expert so correct me if I am wrong. But in my opinion hitting boost cut is just like hitting your rev limiter... which I do daily and it doesn't damage anything

[TracieS]

I just looked into the tread stone kit and was very pleased looked to be made with quality parts.

[deevergote]

I am no expert so correct me if I am wrong. But in my opinion hitting boost cut is just like hitting your rev limiter... which I do daily and it doesn't damage anything

Well, a fuel cut results in an extremely lean condition... there being little to no fuel in the combustion chambers and all... the spark plugs are still firing. It's not great with an N/A engine, but I'd imagine a turbo engine, that has all that compressed oxygen-rich air stuffed into it, would be at greater risk. I've heard plenty of stories of nitrous guys blowing up when they hit their fuel cut when they spray. I wanted to get a nitrous kit when I had my ECU tuned, and when MRX added the fuel cut, I asked him about that... if I recall correctly, he said my concerns were valid.

A spark cut would be better... you'd just overfuel a bit, rather than igniting a super-lean mixture. Granted, if you have a setup where you're dumping a ton of fuel into the engine, you could theoretically hydrolock on excess fuel. It's unlikely, but possible.
Better yet would be a spark AND fuel cut, as long as it could reliably be done simultaneously.






The Treadstone kits aren't top quality, but they aren't bad. I'd trust one of them to get started. Just do your research, and learn how to properly install, maintain, and troubleshoot the system BEFORE you turn a wrench. Once you have that understanding, you should know enough to be able to spot trouble before it causes serious damage... as long as you pay attention.

Boosting a Honda motor can be hit or miss. Boosting an OLD Honda motor increases the risk. Doing it on a budget increases the risk even further. It is imperative that you learn as much as possible if you hope for it to be at all reliable.