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No Start issue

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    No Start issue

    Here's the deal: car got a little overheated a while back, (luckily this happened the middle of last winter... -20 was my friend there) so after a bit of work, found out the water pump was shot. Replaced it & the belts, which were very worn. Fast forward 6 months, (from original overheat) and I've had some residual effects which have cropped up in the last 3 weeks. I need to get some new coolant hoses... (anyone have a good place to look for those?) and I'm not sure what else, beyond what my tests confirmed bad

    I've gone through the troubleshooting electronics part, but the car won't start: I've checked the coil, the resistance of the plug wires, the injectors, and fuel pressure. The coil was bad, so its been replaced, but other then tat, everything else I've tested has come back good. I might need to do more extensive tests on the internal ignitor, but I don't have the best specs for testing it. I've also noted that I get a strong smell of gasoline in the engine compartment when I try to turn it over, but not before. I've clicked the key on and off several times and waiting till the fuel pump clicks off to make sure there are no leaks, but I haven't found any.

    By chance, I cracked the radiator cap after turning it over, and I was greeted by a strong gas smell coming out of the coolant. I then checked the oil, thinking the worst, but besides the fact that I need to change it, the oil has no signs of contaminates. I.E. :not milky or "watered down" and no irregular smell.

    anyone have some suggestions?

    EDIT: before I forget, Thanks in advance, I appreciate the forum alot, you guys have helped me a ton keeping this car running!
    Last edited by Skidd; 08-02-2012, 07:12 PM.

    #2
    Does it have Spark?
    Does it have Fuel at the injectors?
    Is the timing correct?
    Is the compression OK?

    If you suspect a headgasket, do a leakdown test.


    Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

    My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

    A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

    If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

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      #3
      Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View Post
      Does it have Spark?
      Does it have Fuel at the injectors?
      Is the timing correct?
      Is the compression OK?

      If you suspect a headgasket, do a leakdown test.
      1.)It did when it last ran. xD I've got to get someone to turn the key so I can test it quick...
      2.)Yes. Fuel was the first thing I checked.
      3.) It ran nicely before this, I think I had a bit of valve tick that I didn't notice before I had the exhaust fixed, so 90% sure.
      4.) I don't have a gauge to test the pressure, so unknown. I have to check with someone to see if he's got one I can borrow... may be a few days tho.

      and... whats a leakdown test?

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        #4
        If you are getting fuel and the car was running fine and just died it sounds like you need to check your spark. There a bunch of videos out there on how to test the spark. Eric The Car Guy has one that goes step by step on Honda no start situations. The spark is something you can test with a test light or a multi meter. This will involve partially disassembling the distributor and checking the igniter and the coil. This is a place to start and if you are getting spark then you will need to look at the mechanical side of the motor.

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          #5
          Update! Sorry bout the timing, was busy most of the last 24 hrs... anyways:
          Yes, I do have spark. After a somewhat odd way of doing it, so I could see it from the driver's seat, I know for a fact I have spark.

          I don't have access to a timing light, so I don't know if the timing is off or not...
          I'll go watch a few of those videos to see if they have any tips I can use... thanks for the info, I hope it helps

          Comment


            #6
            A question I have to ask ..Has the car ran at all after the water pump swap ?

            A man that keeps looking back can't see whats in front of him.

            Comment


              #7
              I believe the car should run, if poorly, even if the distributor is turned as far as it can go in either direction. Ignition timing shouldn't be your issue. Valve timing might be, though. It's possible that timing belt jumped a tooth. It's easy enough to check.

              Gas smell from the coolant is definitely odd... never heard of that before. Hopefully your nose is playing tricks on you, because I can't imagine what sort of trouble that could be indicating (or causing!)

              The first thing I tell people when they have a starting issue is to check all grounds and battery connections to be sure they are clean and tight. I had an issue in the past where my battery connections were corroded. The car would crank strong, but not start. I had fuel. I had spark (just not strong enough.) The car would run when push-started, since power was then coming from the alternator. But the corroded connections at the battery weren't allowing enough juice to get it started normally.
              I spent $300 on a new battery and starter before I realized the cause of my problem!

              Another thing to check is the condition of your spark plugs. Have you checked all of them? If something was wrong and some of them are damaged, that could cause a no-start. Be sure you look at all of them, not just the one that you checked for spark.






              Comment


                #8
                heheh, I suppose I should have included a few details before I clicked post

                but anyways:
                Stretch, Yes, this car ran good for about.... 2 months after the timing belt & water pump change.... relatively.... I had a vacuum leak that I fixed a couple of seeks before she started acting up. (forgot to re-connect a hose after the timing belt change!)... I did have the exhaust fixed about a while ago, but not sure if that would have any effect other then noise level. I hope.

                I have checked the ground, and the battery terminals are clean and shiney, but I do remember seeing a bad small wire connection from the valve cover to the body... I do remember replacing the ground wire from the battery to the body/engine when I put this A6 in, but I"ll double check the connections just to be sure... I'd hate to have all this trouble from a bad ground!

                I did pull all the spark plugs while I was testing the electrical... I don't remember WHY... but besides finding out that i need new lower seals (replaced the uppers several months ago) the spark plugs are what I would expect to find after 2 months or so of usage. I did a minor tuneup when I replaced the water pump, so they are fairly new.

                As for the fuel in the coolant thing, I have had a disappearing coolant problem lately, but its not coming out of the exhaust. but I did find a leak after replacing the thermostat. I might have have to investigate those hoses again, the car is old after all...
                EDIT: I just hope its not a cracked head... my wallet won't agree too much if it is. but on that note, I just hope its not something worse.


                And here's something I found funny just to pass the time...

                My car is 21 years old this year, so: Its old enough to drink, It's old enough to smoke, and its 4 years from becoming a "classic".
                That either means I've hung on to this car way to long, or its time to turn it into a hotrod.
                Last edited by Skidd; 08-05-2012, 12:21 AM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  main relay under dash its a little grey box pos causes problems all the time
                  Originally posted by deevergote
                  This thread is over a year old, you fucking retard.
                  i dont know why this popped up but U MAD BRO? not my fault u is FAKE! CLOWN ASS

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I could check it, but it was new 2 years ago... had that problem before, its currently hanging down since I never bothered to go stand on my head to get it back into place. It makes a good anti-theft device.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Sorry bout 2x post, but news!

                      I've cleaned the ground connections and checked the main relay, so far with no luck. I even pulled the distributor apart to double check the ignitor under the cap! as a bit of a "ah what the heck moment", I've done a search for how to actually test the main relay and came up with someone having a similar problem to mine, which turned out to be the TPS. Is it possible that something like that could cause all of my problems?

                      Here's a rundown of the symptoms I had before the no start, so maybe you guys could tell if the TPS could be the issue:
                      Hard start, 3-4 cranks with slow firing then eventually starting and running very rough for about 10 seconds. When I got the RPMs up high enough (2-3k) the engine would even out and would run smoothly until I turned the key off.

                      Thanks!

                      EDIT: well, the main relay WAS working til I pulled it out... I checked it in car, and so far the results aren't looking good... It was a new relay about 1.5 years ago, so I don't know why its not working... I've re-soldered the connections to make sure nothing was loose (no obvious cracks) and still no go... but when I jump the terminals in the car (5-7 according the the book) the fuel pump runs... but what else does the main relay control beside the fuel pump?
                      Last edited by Skidd; 08-07-2012, 01:42 PM. Reason: fixes

                      Comment


                        #12
                        3x post! I know I know... I'm dredging... but I'd rather not start a new topic just to keep those interested updated, y'know?

                        Good news, and bad news.... I got it started, finally and ran it for around 5 minutes, and came back later and started it again just to be sure that letting it sit wouldn't make it quit. Bad news is I have a blown head gasket.... fun times.

                        but anyways, here's what I did; I started by taking a look at the ECU and then testing the main relay and found out that you can't get the relay to click in if the ECU isn't plugged in.
                        but both work fine, and I then had a mild success, the engine started to chug fire, every half second or so when turning it over,but that was it. After some frustrated forum digging, I found someone who had a similar problem, but his no start was related to the TPS. in the mean time, my dad had found some old parts from the original f22 that was in the car, so I was thinking that "hey, maybe one of those parts will fix it!" (seeing as at one point I did use the ignitor from the old dizzy) luckily, the entire intake manifold was still around , which had the working TPS, but a missing hose connector. (header?)
                        So just as a shot in the dark, after testing both of the TPS's I decided to pull the wires from the one on the car and try them on the one that I had off, just to see if I could get the car to fire.

                        Based on the info the guy had posted, it seems that if the TPS isn't working at all, the car will outright refuse to fire for some odd reason. ( I think that was an isolated incident)

                        And at this point, I realize that I'm rambling... I'm just not looking forward to replacing that head gasket. the timing belt was a pain to get to and I know I have to go do that all again... ugh.

                        anyways, pulled the wire, connected the old TCU and fiddled with it while I had my friend turn the key... she started within 1 minute, and then ran fine for a while... and then I'm where I'm at now. I just checked the oil and m found it very runny, and not exactly the usual dark brown color. so out of curiosity I popped the valve cover off and found a bunch of coolant in the oil but not mixed in... so I don't know if that's a good sign or not. that explains the smell I was getting in the radiator.

                        And now I'm wondering if it would be worth it to rebuild the engine, since It seems like I've replaced everything else might as well do the lower end, or just replace the head gasket and call it good then sell the car... this thing has been a headache the last year in general.
                        Last edited by Skidd; 08-10-2012, 05:24 PM.

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