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Old 03-29-2018, 10:59 PM   #1
LetsBuildACB7
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F22A1 Boggs during heavy acceleration after 4K and has rough idle

So I had this issue with my Stock motor I bought the car and noticed after I bought it that it would bog hard if I stepped on it so I looked up several different fixes but took off the intake and got to the fuel filter to change it that was going to be my first step I stripped the threads on the fuel filter with the bolt for the fuel line to the injectors so it went in once but I had some wires crossed up so I couldnít reinstall the intake and air filter but I drove the car around with out changing anything and was able to rev past 4K rpms with no issues before it would bog and kind of just get stuck like it hit the limiter but I had to take the fuel line off again to get all the lines uncrossed to be able to put the intake but not I canít put the bolt back in because the threads on the filter are stripped so Iím trying to get it off I got stalled because I donít have a flare but wrench the flare nut started stripping so I stopped using using combination wrenches until tomorrow so I can get a set of the right wrenches a new fuel and air filter I might take the intake and filter from my crashed 96 Prelude S with F22 any thought on getting that flare nut that connect the line to the filter and gas tank
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Old 03-30-2018, 06:22 AM   #2
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I honestly can’t follow a word of that.
Does your check engine light ever come on?
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:16 AM   #3
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What? Use a damn pair of vice grips.

.ís & ,ís

Please use them
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Old 03-30-2018, 03:54 PM   #4
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*edit*
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:20 PM   #5
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So I got the fuel filter off used a crescent to hold the filter went and got a 14mm flash nut wrench 7$ at autozone got the nut off I had to spray it like crazy with wd40 and use a breaker bar on the wrench to get it off and finally it came off I went and grabbed the fuel filter off my 96 S prelude and the Air intake (which turns out it doesnít fit itís too big itís aftermarket air intake ) the fuel filter was exact same though except the mount was different used my old mount bolted it back up put the stock intake back connect everything and it still chokes at 4K rpm like thereís a slight fuel cut off or something and bogs if I rev gently it will rev past 4K no issue still has kind of a rough idle but yesterday went I hooked that old fuel filter and drove it with no air intake it ran like a dream for a few minutes then wanted to die out and bogged super hard
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:25 PM   #6
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No check engine light I might swap the intake manifold to the one on my 96 prelude S it only had 147k compared to the 294k on the accord if that doesnít work I might start working on swapping the whole motor over but it looks like this motor has been well taken care of it has a new head gasket but I donít know if that the only thing they replaced I even have a H23 non vtec intake manifold I can use because Iím swappping a H22 into my 93 si prelude which also has 140 something miles before I blew the oil pump
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:59 AM   #7
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Erik I really want your image to work as I know it’ll make me laugh. Please fix it

Edit: Intake manifolds aren’t really a wear item. They get dirty sure, but swapping it is a waste of time I think..

Motors are for Tesla - Engine. Double check your timing.
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F22Chris View Post
Erik I really want your image to work as I know itíll make me laugh. Please fix it

Edit: Intake manifolds arenít really a wear item. They get dirty sure, but swapping it is a waste of time I think..

Motors are for Tesla - Engine. Double check your timing.
lol its that darn webp image format
i too was thinking timing is off a tooth or two
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Old 03-31-2018, 01:21 PM   #9
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Intake manifold arenít a wear item so why do the EGR passages get clogged on them from carbon build up on these models? Well thatís my next step in fixing this, waste of time? could be but I wonít know until I try it so if any body has some real advice to get my car to rev to it full potential of 6k Rpm before redline Iím all ears I donít need people trolling or telling me Iím wasting my time changing parts out I have 2 full parts engines A 96 prelude S with F22A and 93 Prelude Si with H23 parts arenít gonna cost me a thin I have a lot of spare ones I have both ecu to the preludes everything
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Old 03-31-2018, 03:16 PM   #10
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You remove the caps and clean the passages.. You donít replace the whole damn intake for that. I DID give you real advice ďdouble check your timingĒ. I guess it was hard for you to read since I used punctuation.

A dead miss at high RPM is usually ignition related, but you have fun replacing shit that doesnít need to be.

Let us know when it starts to lose compression so you can tell us youíre going to change your brake pads.
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Old 03-31-2018, 05:31 PM   #11
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I know how to clean them I just donít want to do it when I have another set that turns out has been cleaned already so I stopped re-evaluated and just then my homie gives me a call talking about his new buy B18C type r so we start talking and then I tell him about this problem next thing I know Iím taking the ecu out gonna give this a try before I change out the intake mani so I will let you know what happens later today after I swap in the new P12 ecu into it
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Old 03-31-2018, 05:33 PM   #12
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Spark plugs and wires are next after ecu then distributor gonna use the one off my prelude S
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:14 PM   #13
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So you have a choice, listen to your homie or listen to us .
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Old 03-31-2018, 08:53 PM   #14
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EGR is only activated at low load/throttle input IE: cruising. when the ports are a problem youll get a subaru sounding exhaust note putting around. Its probably been neglected and the runners are loaded with oil schmoo from the pcv valve passing it through. Pull manifold and soak it in a tub of acetone or gaz-o-leen for a couple days and knock the shit off with a nylon or brass brush.
Its an engine since you seem well versed in how they operate do what you would do with any other internal combustion engine, same ball of wax.
cHeck for vacuum leaks. sounds like timing tho, like its a tooth retarded. usually when its off a tooth advanced itll idle fine, drive like crap till about 2800 rpms then runs like a scalded ape.

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Old 04-01-2018, 08:35 PM   #15
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So I got the ecu out of my prelude and connections are different so that was a no go stereo plugged right in tho so now I have to start working on the intake manifold
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:32 AM   #16
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Trolololol

Check the timing, fuel psi, igniter, compression. It's a good thing you have spare parts or you'd be broke just throwing things at the car hoping to solve the issue. It takes less time to check these things than swapping an intake manifold so I'd suggest you start taking advice and stop guessing.

A lot of folks here have forgotten more than you'll ever learn at the pace you are going.
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:22 PM   #17
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CHECKTHETIMING
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Old 04-05-2018, 08:54 AM   #18
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After you check the timing

After you check the timing, you could take a look at your motor mounts if that rough idle is still there. The front motor mount and the 2 side motor mounts are really easy to get to. The 4th motor mount at the rear of the engine is a lot harder to get to.

Good luck!
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