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Old 04-22-2018, 08:31 PM   #1
zedjr10
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How(trick) to get LBJ line up with Knuckle/Hub?

I am putting on a lower control arm and i can't get The knuckle/hub assembly to line back up with hole in lower control arm so LBJ will go back in. I had this problem on other side of car and after messing with it for over an hour it just popped back towards inside of car and LBJ could easily be lined up. There has to be a trick to this or something. WHAT IS IT?
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:52 PM   #2
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did you pull the cv axle apart inside the boot?
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Old 04-22-2018, 09:03 PM   #3
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When I did mine I got the LBJ stud aligned and bolted on (loosely) FIRST, then finagled the LCA into place to bolt up the other bolts.
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Old 04-22-2018, 09:54 PM   #4
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did you pull the cv axle apart inside the boot?

Not sure. Had same issue on other side. I hope not.
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:48 PM   #5
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sounds like what happened.
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:42 PM   #6
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If you hear and feel thuds rolling down the road when itís back together, youíll know.
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:02 AM   #7
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If you hear and feel thuds rolling down the road when itís back together, youíll know.
I don't think i pulled it out but the inner boot is stretched a bit and it won't slide over and line up with lbj. RIght now i have having an effn time getting radius rod bolts to line up. Its effn 10 pm and i can't leave my car sit there like that(apartments). What the hell is trick to getting those 2 bolts on radius rod to line up also. GOsh i have turned a simple job into a surrealistic nightmare.
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:24 AM   #8
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Do you have the nut loose on the front end of the radius rod to make it freer to move? Get the bolts started at least before trying to line up the LBJ. If you didn't undo the axle nut when you disconnected the knuckle from the LBJ and pulled outward on the knuckle, you may have undone one of the CV joints. Try rotating the hub back and forth some.

There are fine threads on the radius rod bolts - I've had trouble boogering up the threads in the lower control arm to the point that I couldn't get one bolt to start.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=207873
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Old 04-23-2018, 01:02 AM   #9
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Do you have the nut loose on the front end of the radius rod to make it freer to move? Get the bolts started at least before trying to line up the LBJ. If you didn't undo the axle nut when you disconnected the knuckle from the LBJ and pulled outward on the knuckle, you may have undone one of the CV joints. Try rotating the hub back and forth some.

There are fine threads on the radius rod bolts - I've had trouble boogering up the threads in the lower control arm to the point that I couldn't get one bolt to start.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=207873
No i don't have the radius nut on front loose. I can't even see it. Must be under the splash shield. Yeah the radius rod is a huge pain. THe other side must of been luck even though i struggled with that also but this is going on many hours now just trying to get rod back in.
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:26 AM   #10
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Ok there is a simple trick i should of known as i didn't realize how slanted those lower control arm holes were. Jack it up under the shock fork until it is lined up. EFFn simple and i wasted hours with this crap. Gosh i feel stupid. I hope this helps anyone else. Jacked it up and both bolts easily went in. I tried it earlier but i jacked it up too close to knuckle. FOr some reason it line sup under bushing for shock fork.

What is sad i remember this same thing happening to me over 25 years ago.

Last edited by zedjr10; 04-23-2018 at 02:30 AM.
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Old 04-23-2018, 04:08 AM   #11
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i can't get axle back in. Tried and tried. AM trying to find a tutorial on this. I hope i don't have to replace cv axle now. Am going to make a new post and maybe someone is online to help me.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:07 AM   #12
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Sounds like your disconnected the outer CV axle joint. Take it out of the car, take the boot off, put it back together. I've done this before and it sucks. You can do this under the car but the axle still needs to come out.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:22 AM   #13
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Sounds like your disconnected the outer CV axle joint. Take it out of the car, take the boot off, put it back together. I've done this before and it sucks. You can do this under the car but the axle still needs to come out.
Is it simple. Cause if it isn't. AM just going to replace with a new 70 dollar axle. AM fkn beat. I also just want to do whatever is quickest now. Am so effn beat. THe axle on it is old and a reman. The boots are starting to dry rot so am sort of figuring of just replacing with new one. What a fkn nightmare i cause myself. I have changed axle on passengers side. IS it the same for drivers side. I have a manual tranny.
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:48 AM   #14
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Same process to remove the axle on both sides. Sorry your having such a tough time with this one.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:06 AM   #15
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You’ll need to know how it goes together, and can be a bit frustrating when putting the bearings in the cage. You should be able to do it with snap ring pliers, ball peen, and a lot of paper towels. Go to O’Advancenapazone and get a few CV grease packs. Be careful cause if you rip a boot, you’re gonna have to get a new one.

I always tell people if you’re not breaking shit, you’re not learning. Take it as a win cause you’re better for it now.

Edit: sorry I didn’t see you’re buying a new axle. It’s the same, just connects to the intermediate shaft instead of the transmission itself. Good luck, man. Sucks to hear this is whooping on you.
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Old 04-23-2018, 01:27 PM   #16
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Youíll need to know how it goes together, and can be a bit frustrating when putting the bearings in the cage. You should be able to do it with snap ring pliers, ball peen, and a lot of paper towels. Go to OíAdvancenapazone and get a few CV grease packs. Be careful cause if you rip a boot, youíre gonna have to get a new one.

I always tell people if youíre not breaking shit, youíre not learning. Take it as a win cause youíre better for it now.

Edit: sorry I didnít see youíre buying a new axle. Itís the same, just connects to the intermediate shaft instead of the transmission itself. Good luck, man. Sucks to hear this is whooping on you.
It was my own stupid fault. I gotta remember to be careful pulling that hub off next time. I bet i never do that again. I think i am just going to get a new axle at napa. I have changed an axle before on passengers side. THe boots are getting close to breaking and i don't want to mess with something i have no ideal about. Thanks for everyone's help on here. If it wasn't for the people at this site i would either be stuck or paying someone to do all this.
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zedjr10 View Post
Is it simple. Cause if it isn't. AM just going to replace with a new 70 dollar axle. AM fkn beat. I also just want to do whatever is quickest now. Am so effn beat. THe axle on it is old and a reman. The boots are starting to dry rot so am sort of figuring of just replacing with new one. What a fkn nightmare i cause myself. I have changed axle on passengers side. IS it the same for drivers side. I have a manual tranny.
We've all been there. Don't buy a new axle as it can come un-done just as quick as the old one. You need to take the axle out and may have to remove the boot to get stuff back in place. Use a zip tie to secure the rubber boot if needed. But we are here to help of course. If you got a new axle you'd have to remove the LBJ (lower ball joint) anyways. That means you can take this axle out and just fix it.

When you have time, go take an axle apart. You need to see what we are talking about. It's 3 things, which only go in one way to the steel boot and they all have to align at once to get it in. One of those "I need 3 hands" job.

I've been where you are with the frustration too. I was younger, improper tools, no manuals, on a driveway, fighting rust and crap and shit breaking and fack!! And all I can say is .....

#1 = have the right tools for the job! Before you start the job! An hour job can take several if you don't have the proper. I was once young and foolish and thought things like

"this hammer is big enough and the only one I have (regular hammer)"
"vice grips will do"
"should be fairly easy"
"we'll use something"
"breaker bar? what for?

Long before the days of owning a pickle fork, 5 & 10 lbs hammers, proper jacks and stands, bands, clamps, 12pt sockets, etc. Back when I would tighten all bolts by hand and not lookup specs. "should be tight enough, put extra mayo on the wheel ones!" :P haha

It's amazing even now I pickup on things from mechanics. Knows he's doing a axle job, puts all the required tools on the cart and rolls it over. Bangs off each step no problem.

*Zing, Zing, bang bang, move rotor out of the way, bang = axle out.

First time I removed an axle it prob took me 2 hours. No lie.


#2 - use a manual
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:41 PM   #18
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all done. Lower Control arm, new axle, ES sway bar bushings Prothane sway bar links on both sides. She rides great now. Pretty responsive doing 30 and no squeaking or stiffness. Who cares my back hurts soo bad i can barely walk. All worth it. Not even sure if i need an alignment. Drives perfectly str8t it seems.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:55 PM   #19
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Most shops do free alignment checks. Do that, and base the need of an alignment off the results. You might not need it, who knows. It’s a good rule of thumb to get an alignment after doing anything suspension/steering related. Glad you got it back together!
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:55 PM   #20
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I've gotten a cv joint back together without removing it from the car. It works best if the bearings are still a bit engaged. So put it in neutral and rotate the wheel a little bit. If the cup turns this isn't too hard.

There are three bearings on the end of the axle and they slide into three grooves on the inside of the cup. See this illustration:



If you disconnect the spring fork from the lower control arm, you can get enough freedom of movement to get the axle lined up a bit straighter. I use a jack under the brake rotor to lift the knuckle and axle up. It helps to have some extra hands, but I've done it alone. Then get a light hammer and tap on the end of the axle. It will go back in. If the bearings didn't fall apart it will work. If not you'll be able to tell as soon as you drive it *CLUNK*. I've found it is a little easier to tap the axle back in if you have removed the axle nut, which gives the axle a bit more back and forth freedom of movement.

Probably people will say I am crazy and reckless, but I've done it and then raced on that joint. Give it a try and if it doesn't work you'll need a new axle anyway.

After you've got it back in pay more attention to the inner boot when you are re-assembling the suspension.
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