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Old 11-01-2005, 07:58 PM   #21
deckeda
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Yes, [mike], this thread was a very helpful factor in giving me the "I can do it" I needed. That, and having to cut off the old strut with an angle grinder pretty much ensured I had to do the rest at home!

Yeah, I got mine in too. But by then I had the whole knuckle in a bench vise and still had to hammer it in --- I even had the bushing in the freezer overnight. The key is to get it started straight (obviously) first. I just can't fathom how you guys did it on the car with like a foot off the floor.

BTW removing the knuckle was by far the easiest part of doing the whole rear-end. I even pulled the hub off, thanks to Mr. Big Ass Pipe for leverage. Total cake. I had tried drilling the bushing to weaken it but it just mocked me. I figured I was wasting my time and (for me) I was right about that because even on the vise it still took another afternoon to whack it out with the chisel and more drilling --- I just don't know that I would have had the leverage down under the car to do all that shit without spending a week.

I'll also mention I bought an arbor press but was unable to make use of it for this job; the knuckle was just too awkward to hold near it but with two more people it might have been different.
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Old 04-03-2006, 03:08 PM   #22
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having just re-read it, i never mentioned it in this guide, but if i remember correctly, one side of the hole in the rear knuckle is lipped, so the bushing only slides in easily from one direction. or maybe its because i used a file to smooth down the edges of the one side made it go in easily, but either way i had no problem putting it back in whatsoever... literally slid right in...

btw the rear discs from the car i made this DIY with are now installed on Coco's car and hes been driving on them and hasnt had any issues. almost 2 years later and still holding up fine, id say this DIY is pretty safe to do.
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Old 06-22-2006, 07:38 PM   #23
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same thing happened to me on both side. Had to grind of both ends of the bolt . drill out the bushing. and replace it.. Getting it back in was the hardest
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Old 06-22-2006, 10:47 PM   #24
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That same thing happened 2 me 2 the bastard, I was feelin cheap so I got a lil piece of rubber hose and stuck it in the bolt and bam! theres my bushing.. Besides im bout 2 do a rear disc conversion soon n e wayz...
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:42 AM   #25
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Someone suggested that I put this info on this here thread, and it looks like the right place to me. I hope this is cool by you, Mike....I use a propane bottle-top torch to burn out most rubber bushings (even though I have a press). After this removes the rubber, put the part in a vise and use a fine toothed hacksaw blade to cut a slit across the outer metal ring and relieve it's pressure fit. Watch your angle (stay flat) with the blade and don't cut into the arm any more than you can help. Energy Suspension suggests this technique when awkward shapes prevent the use of a press. I bought an entire bushing kit from Prothane when I saw that I needed this lower shock bushing for my '92. I usually get ES, but their kit seemed incomplete, so I got the $200 Prothane kit "complete" with rear control arm bushings. Okay, so I go through the set and they only make the lower shock bushings for the front!! Nobody I could find even makes a Poly replacement for this. Feeling like I just ate a face full of crap, I sat down and looked at what I had, then decided to make this work regardless. What I ended up doing was using a pair of rear control/trailing arm bushings to make a bushing setup for the lower shock. Here are the before and after pics of the bushing, and a picture of the parts used.
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Old 07-02-2006, 03:08 AM   #26
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Using the outer sleeve for the control arm leaves a tiny ~1mm gap. I scratched up the inside of the hole and the outside of the sleeve, cleaned them with acetone and then got out the old (I know this sounds shady) JB Weld, applying liberally to avoid air pockets and allowing me to build up more support than the stock assembly. If the gap were bigger, I wouldn't use this technique, but I didn't see tolerance problems here. The replacement sleeve is exactly the right size to fit the strut properly and doesn't need any modification. And the JB also mentioned press-fit bushings as an application on the package.
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Old 07-02-2006, 03:23 AM   #27
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The old and new inner sleeve have different size holes, so in order to use the stock bolt, I had to reuse the old one. Okay, but the stock one has a huge ball in it and won't fit, so I had to grind it to a cylinder shape on a bench grinder. With that work done and about a day of curing time just to be safe, everything works wonderfully. I did this months ago and I drive hard everywhere. The cold weld still looks just as strong as the metal and I haven't noticed any negative effects on handling by removing the ball-sleeve. By the way, I have an EX with rear disc, and am not sure if this applies to the drum setup or not.
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Old 05-28-2007, 08:17 PM   #28
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updated my first post with some part numbers
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:02 AM   #29
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Have to do the same thing today, so this will deff come in handy
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:24 PM   #30
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does anybody know what size bolt is used for the rear shocks?

I dont wanna try to get it off at a junkyard bc the chances of the bolt being stuck or broken seems to be really high.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:20 PM   #31
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dealership man... couple bucks and you get one thats the perfect size/length/thread/head size, brand new.
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Old 10-20-2007, 12:47 AM   #32
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is it possible that the bushing is rusted in there? bc ive been hamereing away for a while, and im not getting that much progress

Edit: I was hammering away for like 2 min straight. and then took some breaks come back for a couple times. Then one time i decided to use my reciprical saw on it. I barley even touched the hole in the knuckle. After that it they both cam out in under 3 min. combined. (i didnt drill a hole for 2 reasons. all my small drill bits are broken and the stores were all closed, and, im on a budget, duh ).

So i came to the conclusion that its pretty much impossible to take it out, unless you somehow relieve the pressure of that ring.
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Old 08-26-2009, 03:39 AM   #33
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So i came to the conclusion that its pretty much impossible to take it out, unless you somehow relieve the pressure of that ring.
Nothing is impossible.....this hread came in real handy for me. I was not able to get the metal ring out with hand tools like cpmike. But the basic idea was there I actually had to get my air chisel out. after using the straight chisel bit and failed miserably I put the straight punch bit in. After a good 20-25 secs. of straight punching it popped right out into the middle of the street. where theres a will theres a way. You just gotta use the old noggin.
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Old 09-01-2009, 02:07 PM   #34
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Better not drill out that housing...

What I have done in the past *ON my EG* is get a hacksaw... Take the blade loose and slide it through the opening, then secure and saw away at the sleeve until youve made your way through. Once that is accomplished, beat it out. PB Blaster helps too.

Good DIY! Just wouldnt damage any pieces I was keeping 0_0
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:24 AM   #35
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Better not drill out that housing...

What I have done in the past *ON my EG* is get a hacksaw... Take the blade loose and slide it through the opening, then secure and saw away at the sleeve until youve made your way through. Once that is accomplished, beat it out. PB Blaster helps too.

Good DIY! Just wouldnt damage any pieces I was keeping 0_0
The hacksaw is a pretty good idea, I didnt even think of that when I was replacing mine. However that piece is a pretty rock solid piece of metal,very thick. I actually had to take my die grinder and smooth it out a little bit to get the bushing to fit in there. As long as the bushing fits in there snug I think it would be fine however somebody decides to do it.....cpmike wrote up a great tutorial there are just other variables in every specific vehicle. Things that one has to think about and solve themselves. Once the bolt goes through the bushing that thing is not going anywhere. I drilled out my housing and grinded out that piece and I still had to hammer that bushing in there. I literally got the bushing set in, put a block of wood over it and hammered away for a solid 4-5 mins before it was set in there. Doesnt sound like a long time. but count to 300 mississippi its a good amount of time.
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:04 AM   #36
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The hacksaw is a pretty good idea, I didnt even think of that when I was replacing mine. However that piece is a pretty rock solid piece of metal,very thick. I actually had to take my die grinder and smooth it out a little bit to get the bushing to fit in there. As long as the bushing fits in there snug I think it would be fine however somebody decides to do it.....cpmike wrote up a great tutorial there are just other variables in every specific vehicle. Things that one has to think about and solve themselves. Once the bolt goes through the bushing that thing is not going anywhere. I drilled out my housing and grinded out that piece and I still had to hammer that bushing in there. I literally got the bushing set in, put a block of wood over it and hammered away for a solid 4-5 mins before it was set in there. Doesnt sound like a long time. but count to 300 mississippi its a good amount of time.
thanks.

actually the hacksaw idea was my first idea, but i was having a hard time handling the blade in that space and with all my effort i was hardly cutting through the ring, and that is what resulted in busting out the drill. granted it isnt the cleanest method but in some cases this bushing is SO stuck that traditional methods dont work and a little bit of a compromise needs to be made. years later i still dont see an issue with the tiny bit of missing material - though i understand many people wont want to do the same, the people that advise against it "because its bad" are just being paranoid.
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:07 PM   #37
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thanks.

actually the hacksaw idea was my first idea, but i was having a hard time handling the blade in that space and with all my effort i was hardly cutting through the ring, and that is what resulted in busting out the drill. granted it isnt the cleanest method but in some cases this bushing is SO stuck that traditional methods dont work and a little bit of a compromise needs to be made. years later i still dont see an issue with the tiny bit of missing material - though i understand many people wont want to do the same, the people that advise against it "because its bad" are just being paranoid.
agreed that metal is not going to break from removing a tiny bit.....I think that was the case though when I did mine it was completely stuck in there I tried the hammer and chisel but had to break out the air hammer once i was able to chisel that up a lil I took the straight punch and blasted away for a solid 30 seconds......shot right into the street.great right up though in any case helped me a lot.
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:36 AM   #38
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Do you have to do the same thing for the front? I'm pretty sure all 4 of my bushings are shot

And I will try drilling on the side of the knuckle with more meat
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:05 AM   #39
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i helped a buddy of mine do this to his da few weeks back. we just rented a ball joint/bushing press kit from advanced and took MAYBE 30 mins to press out the old ones and press the new ones in hands down easiest way. no drilling or cutting needed.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:13 AM   #40
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Bumping this thread x10...

I was having this same issue and happen to come axross this thread, and came in super handy.

I used the Air Hammer though and it came out in literally seconds.
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