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Aluminum knuckles

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    Aluminum knuckles

    Has anyone converted to a newer Honda knuckle?

    I thought the 03~+ TL and TSX were aluminum? I mainly wonder if the axle hub spline is the same.

    #2
    No. I wouldn't think any other knuckle would match ours.

    Comment


      #3
      Having just changed lower ball joints on my '04 TL I can assure you that it has cast iron knuckles, and lower control arms. The RL's have full aluminum knuckles but I don't think they would work without all of the other associated parts.
      MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

      Comment


        #4
        You'd have to retrofit quite a bit. As mentioned, the '05-'12 RL uses aluminum front knuckles, but the outer CVs would have to be swapped, and a custom lower control arm solution would have to be adopted, as a minimum. In addition, the different shape could necessitate longer or shorter axle shafts, you'll need a custom outer tie rod solution (likely just use RLs, but they may not be long enough for proper thread engagement) and the upper ball joint taper hole could be different (though I don't think it is). Once this was done, you'd have a front lug pattern of 5x120 and a rear of either 4x114.3 or 5x114.3, depending on whether you were converted.


        There are other cars out there with aluminum front knuckles, but that's your basic formula of seeing if they'll fit.
        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

        Comment


          #5
          Thank you everyone for the info. It was extremely helpful! I honestly don’t think aluminum knuckles would do that much for the car I was just curious because I am planning on doing 5 lug front eventually/soon. But I know a TL type S with brembos is coming my way soon as well so I am holding out!

          My car so far handles great I just want any extra edge I can get! Ha ha ha

          Comment


            #6
            I'm not sure that the Brembos will do much for you other than look cool and force you to use larger wheels. The stock calipers are perfectly adequate for stopping the car in about every imaginable condition. In fact with some race fluid and race pads they will stand up to endurance racing just fine. The larger wheels will add way more unsprung weight that will be saved by the aluminum calipers. The larger wheels also add rotational mass.

            My Acura TL will be arriving at a picknpull somewhere here in the bay area soon. It had brembos and a 6-speed with an LSD. If you're local to here be on the lookout for an '06 TL manual soon.
            ==========================
            1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
            1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "SpaceEx Starship"
            Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
            Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
            M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel. A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, delta 262 grind, glasspack muffler, PT6 ECU.
            Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ukemike View Post
              I'm not sure that the Brembos will do much for you other than look cool and force you to use larger wheels. The stock calipers are perfectly adequate for stopping the car in about every imaginable condition. In fact with some race fluid and race pads they will stand up to endurance racing just fine. The larger wheels will add way more unsprung weight that will be saved by the aluminum calipers. The larger wheels also add rotational mass.

              My Acura TL will be arriving at a picknpull somewhere here in the bay area soon. It had brembos and a 6-speed with an LSD. If you're local to here be on the lookout for an '06 TL manual soon.
              **Streets of Willow

              Well, funny story. I went to the track Saturday, 106*F outside peak. But it was an evening event so temps got lower as the day progressed. A guy at the track said that I already have wagon front brakes, (neat!). And I actually didn’t get too much fade, using dot 4 and non-race pads! It was kind of surprising, considering that they are pretty small.

              I use 235/45-17 Federal 595 RS-R (140/200AA) on 17x8 +48 wheels.
              Ended up running a 1:36.081. That’s less than half a second off the pace of the Honda S2000 CR being driven by a professional test driver when it was released!

              The best part is that I still have A/C, power steering, etc. Stock intake, stock header, stock catalytic converter.

              Mods include: a catback exhaust, camber kits, polyurethane bushings on the rear Lowers, and a very large prelude front sway bar with a progress rear sway bar.

              Couldn’t have been more pleased! And since the brakes did work so well, the thought of an upgrade is completely unnecessary.

              Comment


                #8
                Obviously you haven’t read the posts above. All your questions have already been answered.
                ~Nick~
                FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                  Obviously you haven’t read the posts above. All your questions have already been answered.

                  If you re read my post I was confirming that in fact, for Racing you really don’t need brembos.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yupp & even just switching out your stock lines for steel braided lines
                    will do a great improvement!
                    Keep Pushing..

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The 03 CL knuckle bolts right onto our CB7s. I did my 5 lug swap this way. But you'll need a minimum of a 16" wheel to clear the 11.8" rotors it has. Also you would have to use the CL brackets to make the caliper work.

                      I've got Legend GS/LS 2 piston calipers using CL brackets.

                      Lower balljoint fits, as does our OEM axles into the splines of the CL hub/bearing assembly.

                      Your alignment will be way off when you first install also, so that'll need to get adjusted immediately after the swap. But i'm having no drivability problems after going this route. 99-03 TL and 01-03 CL use the same knuckles in front and can be swapped right over.

                      member's ride thread
                      93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
                      99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
                      91 Accord SE 176k
                      97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

                      Comment


                        #12
                        For that matter, the '98-'02 Accord V6 uses the same knuckles, hubs and bearings, as well. The difference just being the rotor and caliper bracket attached to it. The rotor on the TL/CL is an 11.8" disc, and the '98-'02 Accord is 11.1".
                        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thank for all of the clarification. I was at the junkyard today looking at the cars and I looked at the legends, a CL, a CB and a vigor and was thinking that it looked like they’d all bolt right in almost! Thanks for clarifying which ones actually do!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The Legend is a no-go. The hub splines are not the same as the CB axles, nor are there any compatible hubs that match the Legend bearing ID that I've found. Also, the lower ball joints are the larger units also found on the Preludes and newer Accords/TLs/TSXs. You'd have to ream out your lower control arm to match the larger size joint. Could be good for performance (I've done it), but not drop-an-go.

                            The Vigor is the exact same thing as the CB, so no advantage there.
                            My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                            Comment

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