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    Block sleeving question

    Well the time has come for me to build a block. My plan is to use a f22a4 block I've had, the question comes to sleeving. I plan to boost it again, but want to have the engine last longer, so i want to sleeve it. Lately I've been looking at Darton MID sleeves and their dry sleeves. I know block guards tend to warp the block and what not, but for their MID sleeves they seem have a built in block guard or it could be bracing and wanted some opinions on if they would do the same thing as a regular block guard/brace like warping and what not. Then on the flip side, i thought about using their dry sleeves but still adamant in fear of cracking the block(part sleeve goes in)later on. I'm open to opinions or suggestions before i settle for one and get it done. Thanks in advance.

    Turbo Setup: 100%

    #2
    two things

    1.mid sleeves make an open deck to a closed deck so theres no "warping" this warping that you are thinking of from block gaurds are from improper installation and not boring the block after the install. you don't just install a block guard and call it a day.

    2. sleeves that crack are from improper installation. either improper clearances or not staggering sleeve installation.

    i wouldn't exactly sleeve to get more life out of a block but to make sure the block can withstand your hp goal. btw, what is your hp goal? because a stock block can withhold quite a few ponies.
    I <3 G60.

    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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      #3
      If you are going to invest on a serious build I would recommend saving up and do Golden Eagle block sleeving. Every serious winning race team runs them. I have personally ran 40+psi of boost 1033whp 2.0L B-series with these sleeves and Bisi with with all motor F22 which makes near 500whp which is on the low side compared to what other guys are running out there with GE sleeves.

      GE also uses precision CNC equipment when installing the sleeves and come with a lifetime warranty against sleeve cracking and one year warranty that assures no sinking sleeves and no coolant mixing problems. If your interested I can offer you best pricing on have your block done. Just shoot me a pm.

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        #4
        Originally posted by wed3k View Post
        i wouldn't exactly sleeve to get more life out of a block but to make sure the block can withstand your hp goal. btw, what is your hp goal? because a stock block can withhold quite a few ponies.
        This.

        With forged internals, carefully assembled, tuned well, properly maintained, and not pounded on mercilessly... you can make all the power you need from a FWD daily driver on the stock sleeves.
        Sleeving a block is never a bad idea, but it's overkill if your car isn't going to be making an obscene amount of power. And for a FWD street driven car, especially if it's your daily driver, you don't want to make a ton of power. 300-350whp would be about the limit of what I'd want on a street car. More than that, traction issues will take all the fun out of driving it (traction will be a problem even with that much power!)
        600whp looks cool on paper, but most people I know with that much power don't enjoy their cars nearly as much as you'd expect.






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          #5
          From my experience of building and tuning engines factory cylinder sleeves even with proper tuning and proper assembled of the rotating assembly should not exceed more than 300-350whp and that's already pushing it. Factory sleeves were never designed to support cylinder pressure like those in a turbo application or a high compression all motor setup. Proper sleeved blocks will greatly resist cylinder bore expansion as well handle detonation if a poor fuel quality were to be ran by accident. Investing in proper sleeves will give a solid platform to build upon and would be much less than rebuilding an engine twice if you crack a stock sleeve.

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            #6
            Originally posted by wed3k
            two things

            1.mid sleeves make an open deck to a closed deck so theres no "warping" this warping that you are thinking of from block gaurds are from improper installation and not boring the block after the install. you don't just install a block guard and call it a day.

            2. sleeves that crack are from improper installation. either improper clearances or not staggering sleeve installation.

            i wouldn't exactly sleeve to get more life out of a block but to make sure the block can withstand your hp goal. btw, what is your hp goal? because a stock block can withhold quite a few ponies.
            Ahh thanks for clearing up of my concerns. My goal is reaching 350whp.


            Originally posted by deevergote
            With forged internals, carefully assembled, tuned well, properly maintained, and not pounded on mercilessly... you can make all the power you need from a FWD daily driver on the stock sleeves.
            Sleeving a block is never a bad idea, but it's overkill if your car isn't going to be making an obscene amount of power. And for a FWD street driven car, especially if it's your daily driver, you don't want to make a ton of power. 300-350whp would be about the limit of what I'd want on a street car. More than that, traction issues will take all the fun out of driving it (traction will be a problem even with that much power!)
            600whp looks cool on paper, but most people I know with that much power don't enjoy their cars nearly as much as you'd expect.
            Yes, I planned on sleeving for a solid bottom end, and so i wouldn't have to rebuild it again anytime soon, even though i dont plan on running an ungodly amount of power. You've also it the nail on the head with 300-350whp cause i was planning on 350 for this build.

            Originally posted by Julio@Bisimoto
            If you are going to invest on a serious build I would recommend saving up and do Golden Eagle block sleeving. Every serious winning race team runs them. I have personally ran 40+psi of boost 1033whp 2.0L B-series with these sleeves and Bisi with with all motor F22 which makes near 500whp which is on the low side compared to what other guys are running out there with GE sleeves.

            GE also uses precision CNC equipment when installing the sleeves and come with a lifetime warranty against sleeve cracking and one year warranty that assures no sinking sleeves and no coolant mixing problems. If your interested I can offer you best pricing on have your block done. Just shoot me a pm.
            Hmm those warranties are tempting. I might just have to contact you guys, maybe you could guys could possibly do my whole bottom end? I'll shoot you a pm here soon.

            Thanks for some pointers guys.

            Turbo Setup: 100%

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              #7
              plus they have the most experience and better turn around time than other smaller machine shops.
              I <3 G60.

              0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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