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Engine died on freeway, car won't start

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    Engine died on freeway, car won't start

    [updated]
    First of all, sorry for the long post, but this issue took a bit of explaining. Those that take the time to read this and give me some ideas, thank you!!
    So I bought this 93 Accord coupe 5-speed last week, and it ran perfect for the first 50 miles or so. The tachometer in the car only ever read at idle with the car running, and the needle would actually move down a little as the RPMs increased. Right after I bought it, I replaced the ignitor and checked that the ground on the thermostat housing was attached and there was no change in the tach behavior. I was driving on the freeway yesterday when all of a sudden the tach jumped up and started working, and the dash lights brightened, then a few seconds later the tachometer and the speedometer both dropped to 0, then jumped back up to reading again then dropped back to 0 and the car shut off. Now there seems to be no power at all, no headlights or anything. Also, after the first time the tach started working and before it died it seemed like it was running on 3 cylinders. I was able to roll off the freeway and into a parking lot, but couldn't restart the car. I thought it was probably some kind of wire short in the engine harness, so I pulled the entire harness yesterday and didn't see anything melted or any damage. I pulled the loom off of all the distributor wiring thinking that was where the short would be, because of how the tach had behaved prior to the engine dying, and the fact that it seemed like it was misfiring (weak spark?) But all the wiring was good. Also had the alternator bench tested because someone suggested that, and it tested good. Ran out of light yesterday. Had to leave the car last night in the parking lot 15 miles away from home. Was able to set the alarm with the harness out so the alarm at least is getting power.. also no fuses were blown. I'll be going this morning to finish putting the harness back on but I'm not sure what to look at next. Please, any ideas, help or direction would be greatly appreciated!
    Last edited by civintegraccord; 09-30-2018, 09:07 AM.

    #2
    I know when I was messing with wiring many many years ago I blew my undersash fuse panel and had to replace it. But I don’t recall that affecting my engine not starting. Does it even attempt to crank? Any check engine light? If so is it throwing any codes?
    ~Nick~
    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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      #3
      Did you check your battery connections? Both at the battery and the negative cable connection to the transmission housing?
      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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        #4
        Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
        I know when I was messing with wiring many many years ago I blew my undersash fuse panel and had to replace it. But I don’t recall that affecting my engine not starting. Does it even attempt to crank? Any check engine light? If so is it throwing any codes?
        All I got yesterday was one click sound then nothing. Right before it died, all the indicator light on the cluster illuminated (when the tach and speeeo dropped to 0) then it shut off and lost power, lost lights, everything. I'll be going in a cou hours to look at it again. Where is the underdash fuse panel? When I get the harness back in, I'll try to pull codes. The battery has been disconnected and reconnected though, and of course the harness was completely out of the car, and since we had to leave the car overnight, we connected the battery so that the alarm could be set So I'm sure if the ECU had any codes right after the "event" when it died, they have been looking g cleared and confused with the engine harness out and the battery connected. But I try and see if I can get the starter to turn, but I don't know, will the ECU be able to register codes, if there is somehow power in the car again?

        Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
        Did you check your battery connections? Both at the battery and the negative cable connection to the transmission housing?
        Yeah the battery terminals are brand new, and the positive cable is fine and the ground on the transmission, thermostat housing, and valve cover were all connected and looked fine.

        I am going to take a multimeter today. Just not sure where to start. The cap, rotor, ignitor, plugs, plug wires, coil, and injectors have all been replaced in the last couple months. I'm going to finish putting the harness and alternator back in, and go from there.
        Last edited by civintegraccord; 09-30-2018, 08:54 AM.

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          #5
          I just thought of something...might the ECU have fried itself and caused these type of problems? And is there a procedure I can do to test the ECU with a multimeter? (Perhaps like testing resistance between specific pins on the ECU, like bench testing a coil?)

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            #6
            If the Ecu is fried you will have a solid CEL when you go to check it out. But anything is possible. The underdash fuse panel is located right next to the dead pedal by your left foot
            ~Nick~
            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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              #7
              Highly doubt the ECU is fried.

              Take a look at your main battery fuse and make sure the end terminals aren't cracked causing an intermittent condition.

              YouTube Clicky!!

              Comment


                #8
                I'm not sure what the current status of your troubleshooting path is, but you always want to start with the simplest and most common issues first. You've said that you've already checked the T-stat ground, but the behavior described still sounds like ground issues could be at fault. A real easy way to rule this out is to take a set of jumper cables, and do the following:

                1. Make sure all alligators are clean and ready to bite. Hit them with a stiff wire brush if necessary.

                2. Connect BOTH the red and black alligators at one end to your negative battery terminal. Grab the jaw with your fingers and rock it back and forth, scratching the teeth into the connection site, ensuring that any dirt/corrosion are scraped away and increasing your chances of a solid connection.

                3. Connect one of the alligators at the other end to a suitable location for a temporary chassis ground. A good spot for this is one of the strut tower nuts or the pre-existing bolt for one of the OE ground straps. Make sure to grip and scrape the teeth in real good.

                4. Connect the remaining alligator to a nice fat spot on the block, in order to create a temporary engine ground. Again, grip and scratch the teeth into place.

                Just to be absolutely clear: AT NO POINT should you be doing anything with the jumper cables other than using them for temporary ground straps during this procedure. Neither the red or black ends should be coming near anything else that is red. It is a very simple mistake that can still be made if you are rushing or haven't slept in the past 24 hours.

                5. Re-test vehicle for, hopefully, new results.

                If this works, you know you have to make new grounds. If it does not, your issues will be more technical and narrow in scope...which would be interesting, as you say you've already started to check the harness for any shorts.

                Please report back when you have a chance as I am interested in what happens next.

                Comment


                  #9
                  This sounds very similar to what happened to mine - discussed in this thread:

                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=205928

                  Good luck with the troubleshooting . . .

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I had the same thing happen to me while driving on the freeway...
                    Ended up having to replace the entire distributor assembly and get timing on point afterwards. That fixed my issue...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Or just test continuity and resistance on the grounds. Just cause it looks good doesn’t mean it is good. Most electrical issues are caused by faulty grounds anyway.

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