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Old 10-24-2017, 06:31 PM   #61
CyborgGT
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Well I'm glad you didn't get rid of the car after all, but you still stuck yourself with a ton of work .

Are you building this harness while the engine is in the car? If I were to make a custom harness (call me weird, but I honestly think I'd enjoy it... sounds therapeutic, like sitting down a putting together a jigsaw puzzle), I'd bolt the long block to a stand and custom-route everything out of sight.
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Old 10-24-2017, 09:31 PM   #62
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They're here! These things are huge and heavy. I like em.


CyborgGT: Yes sir. Everything is going to be tucked behind the engine...at least in theory.

Rilas: The engine harness connectors are easier than the cabin connectors for sure. Pressing that tab down can be a pain.

Raf: There was a YouTube video that had a connector already cut in half lol
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Old 10-24-2017, 11:02 PM   #63
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Nice connectors you got there. If you need any other I may be able to snag one or two from work depending on what exactly your looking for. Size and pin wise. Im assuming those are solder cup pins?
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Old 10-25-2017, 04:48 PM   #64
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That main harness connector thing looks like it came off a damn Abarams tank. Looks super high quality/durable.
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:54 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Nice connectors you got there. If you need any other I may be able to snag one or two from work depending on what exactly your looking for. Size and pin wise. Im assuming those are solder cup pins?
Maybe in the future. We'll see once we get this gal up and running. Thank you!
Yes they are solder cup. I've been looking at the crimp v. solder debates on the internet and it looks 50/50. At least the solder connections are reconfigurable and repairable without too much work(read: terminals and special crimpers). Even it does break, a quick strip and reflow and I'm back in the game.

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Originally Posted by F22Chris View Post
That main harness connector thing looks like it came off a damn Abarams tank. Looks super high quality/durable.
A military vehicle inspired build? Hmmmm...might be an idea. I can tell you that this thing will NOT vibrate loose. It takes a good amount force just to disconnect the two pieces.
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Old 10-29-2017, 03:51 PM   #66
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Why does this sound familiar?

http://hondasociety.com/board/showthread.php?t=156612

LOL You hit the nail on the head when it comes down to the "nice" Preludes. I'm slowly picking away at the little things and making this car more and more enjoyable to drive daily. I came thiiiiiiis close to just putting a J35A4 in it, but I'm far too cheap for that. Mine still has all the auto wiring stuff, and I really, REALLY, don't want to touch the harness. I repaired about 3 or 4 wires/ends and quickly remembered I don't like soldering/crimping or touching any sort of wiring.
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:14 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnick View Post
Why does this sound familiar?

http://hondasociety.com/board/showthread.php?t=156612

LOL You hit the nail on the head when it comes down to the "nice" Preludes. I'm slowly picking away at the little things and making this car more and more enjoyable to drive daily. I came thiiiiiiis close to just putting a J35A4 in it, but I'm far too cheap for that. Mine still has all the auto wiring stuff, and I really, REALLY, don't want to touch the harness. I repaired about 3 or 4 wires/ends and quickly remembered I don't like soldering/crimping or touching any sort of wiring.
Haha. Yeah I saw the "cheap" disclaimer in the beginning of that thread. Wiring can be a pain if you aren't starting from a clean slate. That's completely understandable.

I did a thing today. I took the already unloomed wiring harness and re-installed it into the Lude. It looks like ass, but I need to get this car back to my house so I can pick on it daily instead of just doing chunks every now and then.

I also cut the Home Depot nut off the UCA, but in the process, I cut into the UCA stud. I don't trust the threads on it anymore so it is going to get replaced.

I also ripped the paper throttle body gasket by mistake. The 68mm opening makes that gasket really thin in the corners. Time to go pick up a nice thermal gasket.

So a few more things to get before I can at least start this thing:
Flip the IACV adapter around, whoops
Valve adjustment
Fuel line copper washers
Downpipe gasket (well, I could start it open header...)
Alternator belt with no AC
Alternator bolt for the top part...it was lost in the swap
Trans fluid
Radiator install and coolant

And I think that's it. Going shopping tonight for those parts.
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Old 10-30-2017, 02:29 PM   #68
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My local dealer had the fuel line washers in stock. Replace the fuel filter while the engine is out, it's sooooo easy to do with no engine in the way. I couldn't imagine doing it with the crowfoot wrenches. FYI if you need to do rear upper balljoints, front uppers from a 94-97 accord work perfectly, it's what I used, and is WAY cheaper than buying a new upper arm if you have a press. I still haven't done my front uppers/lowers. Replacing the 6 out back made me not want to do them lol.

If you need anything, let me know, I might have it in my stash.
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:32 PM   #69
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I replaced it when I first picked the car up as part of my diagnosing/replacing known maintenance items. Whoever decided to put a fuel filter right there is a total a-hole. I know it isn't one person's fault, but that's how I feel about it. I'm debating on doing a front suspension from an SH. I love the amount of caster that the SH spec has and the virtual pivot suspension intrigues me. The steering ratio is also a bit faster than the base.

I have purchased 500ft of 20 awg M22759/43-20-9 wire for $70. That was pretty expensive, but I know that it's the standard wire for motorsports applications from research that I have been doing about wiring. If you are keeping track, I have spent a total of $110.17 in parts including shipping.

The bad part is that I also have a high end tool fetish and am a sucker for deals. I bought a totally unnecessary wire stripper for a price that I'm not going to publicly disclose. I saw the stripper for sale on eBay, used, for a damn good price but with the wrong dies for the type of wire that I am using. Some more browsing shows someone with the proper dies for relatively dirt cheap. I ended up buying both of the items and still came out under a third of the price versus trying to buy the stripper online and I have two dies. Just to give you all an idea of the ridiculous cost of things like this:

https://toolshedshop.com/products/id...ipmaster-ideal
https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Strippe.../dp/B00BPW591C

Some carbon fiber composite, ergonomic, precision....wire stripper....seriously.
The aerospace industry is no joke my friends. If someone has a useful aerospace tool that you can use on your car at normal people prices, grab it. It will never lose its value, unless it breaks.

*Continues search online for wire crimpers*
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:42 PM   #70
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Played with the connectors today to practice my soldering. They really need to be cleaned of all the old solder and flux. That's going to be a pain to do.


First strip the wire and no I don't need no fancy strippers to do this, just a sharp pair of cutters:


Here's the OEM wire for comparison. Notice how it isn't tinned nor twisted like the other wire. This isn't the M22759 wire, btw. Just some random mil-spec, M81044 I believe, wire laying around.


Next, tin the wire!


Grab some solder:


Throw it in the cup:


Add heat and insert wire:


Hmmm...two issues here. Not enough heat (thermal mass = bigger tip) and insufficient solder.

That's pretty much the process until I find a consistent good technique. I got somewhat good at it, but my home soldering stuff is much different than the stuff at work, which means I'll have to tweak the process a bit more.
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Old 11-03-2017, 04:59 AM   #71
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Looks great! What's the plan for this piece again? You are going to integrate this into the OEM firewall/harness or going with a new harness?
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:19 AM   #72
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I'm straddling the fence between those two choices.

On one hand, it'll be super easy to just wire up the OEM mating connectors to the end of the Mil-spec and be done with it. I could bring the shock tower harnesses to the interior and still have a racing harness "appearance." This would get the car up and running a bit faster, not that I'm really rushing it now lol.

With a little more work, I could have a simpler Engine > Mil Spec > ECU harness. This would open up more possibilities with custom engine sensors and aftermarket engine management.

I think I'm going to go with the latter. This build is about simplicity and efficiency, and there is nothing simpler than deleting unnecessary wiring and connectors.
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Old 11-11-2017, 05:26 PM   #73
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The throttle body that I ordered, Professional Products 69605, apparently isn't a 100% bolt on affair. With some more research, I learned that the Integra GSR and ITR have a different throttle cable mechanism. I was going crazy wondering why my throttle cable had so much slack. The fix for that was to swap over the Prelude's bell crank. With a little bit of boring, it slipped right on the aftermarket throttle body. It needs a WOT stop because it can go over WOT and start closing again from the other direction. That's an easy fix as well, just bolt up a little L bracket and shim it till I'm satisfied.

The IACV bracket was backwards, so I flipped that around and bolted the IACV up.

Filled the fluids up, coolant, oil and trans. Primed the oil pump and galleries. Saw about 35 psi just running the starter, no spark plugs or anything. I did that a few times and listened for any strange noises. I have been paranoid that I didn't clean up all of the shavings from the BS delete kit or forgot to install an o-ring or something. It looks lCompression is good, it blew the spark plug boots out of their holes lol.

Got some castle nuts from the yard, but they are going to be a pain to tighten down because of all the rust on the threads and the ball joint spinning. I'll take my dies and clean them up a bit. I also noticed a ripped boot on the passenger side tie rod. That'll have to be handled too.

Bought an exhaust flange gasket, since the old one got lost somewhere with the bolts. It doesn't fit perfectly, but it'll work for what I need it for. I'll have to get some hardware from the store that is rust resistant.

First start up is very close!!!
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:57 PM   #74
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Bolted the throttle body on, connected the MAP and TPS, installed spark plugs, turned the key and...no start. Dammit. I really was hoping for it to turn over on the first try, but I'm going to have to do some diagnosing work now. This feels vaguely familiar to the beginning of this build...
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:49 PM   #75
F22Chris
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No crank no start, or what? At least no starts are usually easy. So close
I want to see it when it runs
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Old 11-12-2017, 09:04 PM   #76
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Crank, no start. Shouldn't be too difficult. Are you still in Atlanta?
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Old 11-13-2017, 06:57 PM   #77
F22Chris
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Yeah Iím here till the end of December.

Did you figure out what the engines not getting?
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Old 11-15-2017, 05:30 PM   #78
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No fuel.
I figured that part out on Sunday.

Today, I put my Fluke(I love that thing!) on an injector connector to see what's up. I found out that I have 12v on the YEL/BLK, but there is no ground on the other side when cranking the car, hence no fuel being injected.

Ok, the problem here is that my pops threw the old key away and I had to buy a whole new key set with immo box. My assumption right now is that the special code that my original key shared with the ECU is no longer being sent by the replacement key. The key, the immo controller and the ECU are married. I have replaced the immo and the key and now the ECU is cutting the fuel supply. Now I have to either:

Delete the immo chip in the ECU using a doctronics chip...again. I should've kept that chip. I think it's around $60 shipped for the chip from Xenocron.

Get my old immo programmed to new key, which defeats the purpose of getting a new key set. $115 from some online locksmith.

Learn to virginize my own immo so that I can use my own key. $?

I have never seen pictures of this box taken apart on the internet. There may be a first here!

Edit: I lied. There are pics here:
http://ezflasher.com/documents/EZFLA...ANUAL-V1.6.pdf
And it tells you what IC is the EEPROM, but it doesn't give you the contents of the IC.
After more reading, I don't want to virginize my Immo. I just want it to send the correct code or rather match codes with the ECU. I may have to read two EEPROMs, the immo box and the ECU eeprom to figure out which values match, and then apply them to the new immo box eeprom...that's quite a bit of work.

More learning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=qRz2b1S2PGk
What I'm thinking is, the immo box holds the key values and the ECU just receives a unique code as an acknowledgement that the immo box has accepted the key. This occurs for any key that is programmed to the immo box. The code that is sent to the ECU does not change once married to the immo box! Thinking about how the doctronics chip works here is critical. It is only an EEPROM soldered on to a custom made PCB. It probably just delivers an "OK" code to the ECU's microcontroller, everytime, regardless of immobilizer state. That means the stock immo chip in the ECU has two functions, compare the immo box code to a stored value, give an OK command to the rest of the ECU.

I'm wondering if, during manufacturing, all the ECUs were blank at first, then they were married to the immo box at first power on. If that is the case, I would only have to blank the ECU's immo chip and re-marry it to my current immo box...hmmmm. Talk a walk in my thought processes guys lol.
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Old 11-17-2017, 03:23 PM   #79
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I have the EEPROM dump from my original immo box...I have no freaking clue what any of the bytes are. Now I have to grab the ECU immo chip and the new immo box dumps. This is the first time I've ever seen the hex dump for this style of Honda immobilizer. Ha! First on the internet still! I'm going to post pics once I get everything sorted...for security purposes. I don't want anyone's NSX getting stolen, since they use the same system.

Due to time constraints, I'll have to skip reprogramming the immobilizer EEPROM...maybe. I ordered the Mobilizer-A0 from Xenocron to bypass the immobilizer. It's going to take more trial and error than anything which won't be of much benefit to me right now. Trying to get this thing rolling quickly.
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:17 PM   #80
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Started the car for the first time today. Oil pressure shot up to 80-90 psi. The balance shaft delete installation is probably ok. I have a very, VERY, bad vacuum leak somewhere. My idle jumps to 4k ish rpm. It makes a loud whistling noise, you guys have to hear it. I have to take care of that next.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AHTIJkZ98Q
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