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Old 02-12-2018, 10:47 AM   #41
Ralphie
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Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed.
Im at 60k.

Really itching for a 6-6 lol.

From my reading, the only 6-6 that came in white, were 2015!??!?

If I don't get white, I am probably going to get another grey again. Its great at hiding imperfections(mostly).

That is, if I don't splurge and get a 2.0T Sport lol.

I am wanting to do an HID kit as well. First kit I did was DDM and I had return rod issues. Sent it back. Then I did the H9 swap, which was good. About a month ago both bulbs went out, so I just put some silverstars in, but I would like to do the HID swap again with a good kit from TRS.
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Old 02-12-2018, 03:23 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralphie View Post
Im at 60k.

Really itching for a 6-6 lol.

From my reading, the only 6-6 that came in white, were 2015!??!?

If I don't get white, I am probably going to get another grey again. Its great at hiding imperfections(mostly).

That is, if I don't splurge and get a 2.0T Sport lol.

I am wanting to do an HID kit as well. First kit I did was DDM and I had return rod issues. Sent it back. Then I did the H9 swap, which was good. About a month ago both bulbs went out, so I just put some silverstars in, but I would like to do the HID swap again with a good kit from TRS.
Honestly, my favorite color on these is Still Night Pearl. Simply one of the coolest Honda colors to come out in ages. It's like Deep Ocean Pearl on our HR-V, but with a more vivid blue base and a LOT more purple in the light. You can get it on a 6-6 if you get the MMC 16-17 model, which I don't like as much (but the grill can be dealt with).

I'm going to take it on a cruise for the next few days as we have a route around here that takes you up along Lake Mead's shoreline and then through an area called the Valley of Fire. Supposed to be a pretty good drive and should allow me to get a good feel for the chassis on roads that aren't Texasy. At some point, I will take this down AZ 89A since I know it well and I know it will expose any weaknesses in the tuning. I'm thinking a rear sway from Progress is probably on the table at this point just because they are cheap, quick, easy and effective. They also don't kill ride height or quality.

I looks like my coilover options are either BC Racing or Tein. Tein has essentially swapped everything over to their new line of non-rebuildable Chinese crap, so I may still pick up an HFP set too. I would like to lower the front a very small amount and then lower the rear about .5". H&R has a set that does 1" in the front and .2" in the rear, but I have not typically been very thrilled with H&R's ride quality.

So far, it seems that the chassis actually has quite a bit of grip (a LOT more than you would expect). I would say total grip is pretty close to the Si, but it doesn't turn in as fast, and it doesn't set as immediately, so it sort of rolls in and takes a set and then it is actually surprisingly neutral compared to other Honda V6 cars. I think a Progress Bar would be a good first change based on what I have experienced with them in my other cars. Then I'll decide on the ride height issue.

Honestly, if you have a chance to pick one up, I would recommend it. The 2.0T Sport is pretty bad ass IMO, and I love the new Accord overall, but the 2.0T is going to have a very different power delivery and is slower once you take away the 10AT. The 2.0T 6MT Sport in Still Night Pearl would be pretty cool though. Keep in mind also, that you will get a lot less content with the new Sport than you would with a V6-6. You lose things like seat memory, the best sound system, leather, and a lot of other little features. And you lose the sound of the J35.
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Old 02-12-2018, 03:42 PM   #43
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I have Teins on my G37. Build quality wise, the Chinese stuff is still good. The reason they made the switch is for cost, but the biggie was really moving to sealed dampers for their budget line since it's not worth rebuilding a $400 coilover. They will just ship you a new damper. The Flex Z is a pretty quality unit. I'm thinking about upgrading from my Basis Zs as they have stiffer spring rates and higher quality + more regressive damping. If you haven't I'd probably look at stickier tires if you go the coilover route. It's a slippery slope.....
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:13 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by gloryaccordy View Post
I have Teins on my G37. Build quality wise, the Chinese stuff is still good. The reason they made the switch is for cost, but the biggie was really moving to sealed dampers for their budget line since it's not worth rebuilding a $400 coilover. They will just ship you a new damper. The Flex Z is a pretty quality unit. I'm thinking about upgrading from my Basis Zs as they have stiffer spring rates and higher quality + more regressive damping. If you haven't I'd probably look at stickier tires if you go the coilover route. It's a slippery slope.....
Stickier tires go without saying. It has a set of "UHP Summer" tires on it now, but they are some no name brand, so I don't push them assuming they are great. One of the things I haven't really had too much of a chance to try out, although they actually have handled any pushing I have given them so far.

I'll take a look at the Tein's again, but still don't know if I want to dick with setting ride height and such.
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:02 PM   #45
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I went back and looked at them again, the Street Advance Z would probably be th best choice for me. I guess the advantage is that I can get the look exactly where I want it and for $300 more than a set of springs you basically get a good matched damper with it. I like the H&R OE Sport spring rates, but the rake on them is a little extreme with a difference of nearly a full inch.

It just seems like overkill for a set that isn't probably ever going to be adjusted beyond the initial adjustment. As close to an OEM ride is also key, so they make a little nervous about that. The Tein Street Advance Z springs are like 81% stiffer in front. That's a pretty massive increase.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:55 AM   #46
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For me the point of coilovers isn't so much about constantly readjusting... it's about the matched dampers and getting it perfect the first time.

The increase in spring rate is high but something has to give when you cut wheel travel. In any case I think the Advance Z dampers will still maintain some suppleness over fast impacts. Plus you can adjust them (though I think that is just rebound.... compression is probably fixed).

Other thing to consider with spring rates is the conditions of your roads. If you were in the snow belt I'd say hell no. But I imagine the roads in AZ are OK. At least as good as they are here. G is mostly comfortable... only cringe worthy impacts are due to FUCA clearance since the spring rates are a little too soft. IIRC (unfortunately) you shouldn't have that issue. I'd go for it. I'm happy with Tein, they made a good product.
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Old 02-13-2018, 02:36 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by gloryaccordy View Post
For me the point of coilovers isn't so much about constantly readjusting... it's about the matched dampers and getting it perfect the first time.

The increase in spring rate is high but something has to give when you cut wheel travel. In any case I think the Advance Z dampers will still maintain some suppleness over fast impacts. Plus you can adjust them (though I think that is just rebound.... compression is probably fixed).

Other thing to consider with spring rates is the conditions of your roads. If you were in the snow belt I'd say hell no. But I imagine the roads in AZ are OK. At least as good as they are here. G is mostly comfortable... only cringe worthy impacts are due to FUCA clearance since the spring rates are a little too soft. IIRC (unfortunately) you shouldn't have that issue. I'd go for it. I'm happy with Tein, they made a good product.
I'm not going that much lower, so a massive increase in spring rate isn't really that necessary. Consider too that their own lowering springs that drop it about 1.5" are about 15% stiffer, which was consistent with the Neuspeed Sports I put on the CB7 (and which gave a fantastic ride). Since I am only looking to go a slight bit lower to dial out some of the inherent body roll and give it a slightly better stance, that 81% just seems like overkill. But the next step up is even stiffer still.

I'm not in AZ, but the roads are not TERRIBLE here, but they are also not as good as everyone assumes because substrates out here tend to be more difficult to work with. That said, I want to be able to take the car to ANY roads (including CA's crappy roads) on a road trip and still have good ride quality. I'll have to think about it some more. Neuspeed was always my go to because they were progressive, weren't too wild with the drop, picked a reasonable spring rate and had just the perfect rake (about .2-.3"). I'll take a look at the BC Racing coil overs too as I have heard good things about them as well. I may also see if the Progress Rear Sway bar cures my complaints like it did on the Si.

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Old 02-13-2018, 08:58 PM   #48
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i have a 14 6/6. i definitely recommend the TRS hid retrofit. its really easy to do. id be lost if i had to go back to oem lights. get the led fogs too. i want to get pcd/ktuner for mine soon. you had any transmission trouble? had my 1-2 gear set replaced under warranty @52k. been good since then. at 64k now. had the clutch replaced while the trans was out.

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Old 02-13-2018, 10:57 PM   #49
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I work with a Co-op who's got a 16' 6-6. His is pretty much tuned to the max with all the bolt-ons and precat deletes. Making about 290whp. I drove it and it's got not enough tire in the front to put that power down.

His mod list is in the description of the vid. He's using a TLX rear sway

Here's a vid of his dyno run:

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Old 02-14-2018, 12:36 AM   #50
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i have a 14 6/6. i definitely recommend the TRS hid retrofit. its really easy to do. id be lost if i had to go back to oem lights. get the led fogs too. i want to get pcd/ktuner for mine soon. you had any transmission trouble? had my 1-2 gear set replaced under warranty @52k. been good since then. at 64k now. had the clutch replaced while the trans was out.

[IMG][/IMG]
Did you put a plug and play kit in the car before you retrofit it? I had great luck with a plug and play on my Si, and with the cut-off on the stock projectors, I can't see it being worse. I guess I am just hesitant to crack open the headlights if I really need to.

As for transmission trouble, I haven't had any problems yet and all of my syncros seem fine. It does seem to balk a little bit about 5th gear when it is cold, or if I am rushing shifts. I also may need a clutch soon, as it seems like it is starting to get inconsistent, and my clutch fluid level indicates quite a bit of wear on the disc.

I also have no idea if they did transmission work since it was a CPO, but I would guess not, because I would have thought that they would have replaced the clutch for that. How much was your transmission repair and clutch job? I realize now these have a dual-mass flywheel and it seems to be pretty expensive from Honda.

P.S. Took it for a 170 mile round trip cruise through Lake Mead Recreational Area and Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada today and it was a FLAWLESS GT car. Probably needs a little more rear sway and some good tires and brakes, but other than that, very little to complain about. I'll have to do the circuit of AZ 89A to confirm I don't want to make any changes, but I think it mostly just sliding around in the seats more than in the Si that makes it feel like it is rolling.
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:37 AM   #51
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Did you put a plug and play kit in the car before you retrofit it? I had great luck with a plug and play on my Si, and with the cut-off on the stock projectors, I can't see it being worse. I guess I am just hesitant to crack open the headlights if I really need to.

As for transmission trouble, I haven't had any problems yet and all of my syncros seem fine. It does seem to balk a little bit about 5th gear when it is cold, or if I am rushing shifts. I also may need a clutch soon, as it seems like it is starting to get inconsistent, and my clutch fluid level indicates quite a bit of wear on the disc.

I also have no idea if they did transmission work since it was a CPO, but I would guess not, because I would have thought that they would have replaced the clutch for that. How much was your transmission repair and clutch job? I realize now these have a dual-mass flywheel and it seems to be pretty expensive from Honda.

P.S. Took it for a 170 mile round trip cruise through Lake Mead Recreational Area and Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada today and it was a FLAWLESS GT car. Probably needs a little more rear sway and some good tires and brakes, but other than that, very little to complain about. I'll have to do the circuit of AZ 89A to confirm I don't want to make any changes, but I think it mostly just sliding around in the seats more than in the Si that makes it feel like it is rolling.
P.S. Nice ride! Looks great!
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:41 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Losiracer2 View Post
I work with a Co-op who's got a 16' 6-6. His is pretty much tuned to the max with all the bolt-ons and precat deletes. Making about 290whp. I drove it and it's got not enough tire in the front to put that power down.

His mod list is in the description of the vid. He's using a TLX rear sway

Here's a vid of his dyno run:

Stock it doesn't have enough tire. If I punch it in 2nd gear, it will break them loose. Partly due to no LSD, and partly due to a WIDE torque band. It definitely requires a different technique than a typical NA four banger Honda. That said, mine is all stock but with a little bit of care it isn't too much of an issue.

I have heard about the TL/TLX sway bar swap, but I think the Progress is bigger and it is 2 position adjustable, although it might be worth it to look at it.
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:17 PM   #53
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Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed.
I forget about that color.

You know what color I LOVED. Tiger eye pearl.



A lot of people think it looks like dogshit lol. I think that it looks great, since it changes so much depending on the light.

But they only made it for coupes lol.

But yea. Im still torn over the 2.0T. Id probably save a lot of money buying a 2017 EX-L and get a lot more features then a brand new 2.0

I just like that it comes from the factory with a turbo, so that Id have a great platform to start with and I like that the new "sport" is based of the EX, as opposed to the LX, so it has a lot more features but looks great exterior wise. Just not sold on the fastback look yet.

The 2017 coupes with HFP kits look killer though. On my sedan, all I wanted to do was a flushie, convert to dual exhaust, and black out the windows. These cars look that good.

Waiting to see what changes they make on the 10th gen when they refresh it. If its a show stopper, then ill probably get that, otherwise you just can't go wrong with the J35.

Every time I get a new car, im like "v6 this time" and I always stick with the 4banger. Def not making that mistake next time, and Im going to probably get a 6spd as well. Been too long.
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Old 02-14-2018, 03:01 PM   #54
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A decent HID kit in the projectors should work fine. The projectors are essentially the same as the ones in the last TL, obviously built around a halogen bulb.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:57 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by owequitit View Post
Did you put a plug and play kit in the car before you retrofit it? I had great luck with a plug and play on my Si, and with the cut-off on the stock projectors, I can't see it being worse. I guess I am just hesitant to crack open the headlights if I really need to.

As for transmission trouble, I haven't had any problems yet and all of my syncros seem fine. It does seem to balk a little bit about 5th gear when it is cold, or if I am rushing shifts. I also may need a clutch soon, as it seems like it is starting to get inconsistent, and my clutch fluid level indicates quite a bit of wear on the disc.

I also have no idea if they did transmission work since it was a CPO, but I would guess not, because I would have thought that they would have replaced the clutch for that. How much was your transmission repair and clutch job? I realize now these have a dual-mass flywheel and it seems to be pretty expensive from Honda.

P.S. Took it for a 170 mile round trip cruise through Lake Mead Recreational Area and Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada today and it was a FLAWLESS GT car. Probably needs a little more rear sway and some good tires and brakes, but other than that, very little to complain about. I'll have to do the circuit of AZ 89A to confirm I don't want to make any changes, but I think it mostly just sliding around in the seats more than in the Si that makes it feel like it is rolling.

yea pnp TRS kit. nothing less. also did switch backs in the corners. the retro is really easy once you get the light apart. have to drill a hole in the reflector housing but it gets covered up by the shroud when the light goes back together.



this is what your car gonna look like lol. theres like a million push clips holding the bumper on.



the clutch and hour labor to install was almost 800$. the rest of the trans repair was done under 5/60 warranty. they told me it was a one time repair so they know its a common issue with these transmissions. my cl has 235k on it and it wayyyy smoother than my 9g with 64k lol. mine kinda "blocks" 5th also when its cold. but since the repair, its been doing good.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:11 PM   #56
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yea pnp TRS kit. nothing less. also did switch backs in the corners. the retro is really easy once you get the light apart. have to drill a hole in the reflector housing but it gets covered up by the shroud when the light goes back together.



this is what your car gonna look like lol. theres like a million push clips holding the bumper on.



the clutch and hour labor to install was almost 800$. the rest of the trans repair was done under 5/60 warranty. they told me it was a one time repair so they know its a common issue with these transmissions. my cl has 235k on it and it wayyyy smoother than my 9g with 64k lol. mine kinda "blocks" 5th also when its cold. but since the repair, its been doing good.
I've also found that with Honda's "new" transmission fluid, it likes more frequent changes. I could always feel a change in behavior on the Si and I knew it was time to change it. After the change, it was much smoother and easier. I never did have syncro issues on that one either, and it it was also a notorious car to have that problem. I will probably change my tranny fluid to keep it on schedule with the oil changes since that was just done.

I'll probably try a good quality HID kit and see how I like it before I pull things apart.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:12 PM   #57
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I forgot to mention that I also installed the little rubber console mat from the 2016-2017 Accord, and the OEM floor well red LED lights, which you totally can't see unless you have white shoes on. Debating drilling the filter for more output.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:39 PM   #58
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console mat? havent seen that yet. i also did the foot well lights. disappointing for sure. im gonna drill mine out one day..
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Old 02-15-2018, 10:05 PM   #59
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console mat? havent seen that yet. i also did the foot well lights. disappointing for sure. im gonna drill mine out one day..
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/pro...T2F-A01ZA.html

They also have a wireless phone charger for the 2016-2017 that I am pretty sure could be retrofit into a 2013-2015 with no problems. You would have to replace the lid of the same cubby that has the aux inputs from a 2016-2017 though.
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Old 02-16-2018, 05:10 PM   #60
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Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed.
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http://www.collegehillshonda.com/pro...T2F-A01ZA.html

They also have a wireless phone charger for the 2016-2017 that I am pretty sure could be retrofit into a 2013-2015 with no problems. You would have to replace the lid of the same cubby that has the aux inputs from a 2016-2017 though.
I saw that wireless charger option a few weeks ago.

I use the USB port though, id assume that would be relocated or removed completely, as I do not see it in the pics?

Also you need a QI case, no?
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