Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

Replacing f23a4 engine and transmission

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Replacing f23a4 engine and transmission

    First off I apologize in advance if this has been answered already, I've been searching the site for an hour and haven't found anything approaching my issue. I drive a 99 Accord 2.3l ulev vtec that I got for 50$ and barrels of elbow grease. The exterior was covered in mildew and the inside was what I can only describe as "like the inside of a fruit roll up left in the sun". For 2 years. So... So much sticky. Mechanically the engine was in fair condition. Part of the distributor was broken off inside the head. The oil looked like melted boot leather and one of the plugs looked more like a burnt nail. The transmission had a little bit of slip when cold. This car sat in a driveway and people would just go take things apart when they weren't busy watching honey booboo or whatever it is assholes do all day. It took some work and time but I brought this car back from the dead. I love this car. Now you know a little about me. Nice to meetcha. Hi! Well, a year and 30k miles later and the trans finally went. At 270k ish. So I got a great deal on a wrecked 98 2.3cl with the f23a1. Dealer maintained 220k. At first I thought I would swap all I could, engine, transmission, suspension and drum to disc. being that the cl has more of a "sport tuned" suspension. It can be done but I just found out that the wifey is pregnant and we already have a one year old boy. So all that is on hold. Priorities and all that. Anyway, I've got both engine/transmission out and side by side they're very close. The f23a4 (ulev) transmission has a neutral safety switch? On the opposite end of the shifter linkage control rod. The f23a1 does not. How important is this? Also, the accident the a1 was in cracked the bellhousing on the wheel side. I took the a4 cover and put it on the a1. No problem except the hole where that control rod used to come out. Do I need to weld the hole shut? Which ecu should I use? I have both. Has anyone tried a disc conversion using 98 2.3cl brakes? Lastly, I've put new speakers all around, Kenwood deck, 2 Rockford 12s in the trunk. 3 amps. As it is I don't have any dimming because I rerouted my battery cables to use the battery from my old f250. will I need to run a second battery and isolator if I swap to an aftermarket underdrive pulley? Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for listening.
    Last edited by Campeasy; 12-13-2015, 03:16 AM.

    #2
    Originally posted by Campeasy View Post
    First off I apologize in advance if this has been answered already, I've been searching the site for an hour and haven't found anything approaching my issue. I drive a 99 Accord 2.3l ulev vtec that I got for 50$ and barrels of elbow grease. The exterior was covered in mildew and the inside was what I can only describe as "like the inside of a fruit roll up left in the sun". For 2 years. So... So much sticky. Mechanically the engine was in fair condition. Part of the distributor was broken off inside the head. The oil looked like melted boot leather and one of the plugs looked more like a burnt nail. The transmission had a little bit of slip when cold. This car sat in a driveway and people would just go take things apart when they weren't busy watching honey booboo or whatever it is assholes do all day. It took some work and time but I brought this car back from the dead. I love this car. Now you know a little about me. Nice to meetcha. Hi! Well, a year and 30k miles later and the trans finally went. At 270k ish. So I got a great deal on a wrecked 98 2.3cl with the f23a1. Dealer maintained 220k. At first I thought I would swap all I could, engine, transmission, suspension and drum to disc. being that the cl has more of a "sport tuned" suspension. It can be done but I just found out that the wifey is pregnant and we already have a one year old boy. So all that is on hold. Priorities and all that. Anyway, I've got both engine/transmission out and side by side they're very close. The f23a4 (ulev) transmission has a neutral safety switch? On the opposite end of the shifter linkage control rod. The f23a1 does not. How important is this? Also, the accident the a1 was in cracked the bellhousing on the wheel side. I took the a4 cover and put it on the a1. No problem except the hole where that control rod used to come out. Do I need to weld the hole shut? Which ecu should I use? I have both. Has anyone tried a disc conversion using 98 2.3cl brakes? Lastly, I've put new speakers all around, Kenwood deck, 2 Rockford 12s in the trunk. 3 amps. As it is I don't have any dimming because I rerouted my battery cables to use the battery from my old f250. will I need to run a second battery and isolator if I swap to an aftermarket underdrive pulley? Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for listening.
    I'll take a stab at this. I like answering posts that have 0 replies, even though you may never read this and you only have 1 post & this is not a cb7 car :P Post should probably be in Off Topic / Auto or something... anywho.

    Nice to meet you too.

    First. Go buy the manual for the car, haynes, etc. You cannot do this job with the internet and guessing your way through. The manual will be your savior here.

    NSS
    It's an electrical switch that moves with the shifter on an automatic, and is hooked to the clutch pedal on a manual. It simply completes a circuit to allow the starter to crank over when the car is in neutral or park only or when the clutch is pushed in which is essentially neutral. In other words, it prevents someone from starting the car while it's already in gear which would result in the car taking off on it's own since it's in gear.

    The F23a1 should have a NSS too but a different kind. If you cannot make the F23a4 NSS work with the F23a1 or visa-versa then you are SOL. This part is needed and most cars have an electronic aspect to these as well.

    Same goes for the shift linkage control rod. Some modification can be made here as it is simply a rod that moves stuff, but if you cannot get it to function properly with a combination of parts, then this may not work. Obviously the F23a4 has some "upgrades" here with the different parts. Personally if you are using the F23a4 transmission I'd try and use all the parts that came with it and then adapt them to work with the car.

    You should be able to use the original ECU but you may have to switch the TCU if you end up using the F23a4.

    Obviously switching the internals of the transmissions would be another option here too.

    As for the 3 amps and subs. Sell that shit, get rid of it. You have more important priorities now with a baby (and baby on the way) and a car to fix than trying to shake the junk in your trunk.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for getting back to me. I had given up on this being answered. I ended up welding the broken parts of the transmission housing. " guessed" my way through the rest. Car is running. As far as selling the audio stuff goes. I don't see what that has to do with priorities.I have two other running vehicles, my family has everything they need or want and I'm not hurting for anything. It's already bought and paid for. Craigslist. So. Inexpensive to begin with. However, any further mods are indefinitely on hold. Anyway, thanks again.

      Comment

      Working...
      X