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Old 07-12-2019, 09:39 AM   #41
RabbittCB7
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I guess I'll just check the timing for the 500th time . . . Are H22's known to sometimes be hard to time, eg. off by half a tooth on the crank pulley?
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Old 07-13-2019, 11:01 AM   #42
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the timing is spot on, as it was before. I thought the Fuel Injector Resistor was bad, took it home, tested it a second time but its within spec . . . Which is odd because I swear it read 0 when I checked it earlier. So that's not it either. . .

WTF else could cause it to run like that? I'm getting so depressed.
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Old 07-13-2019, 02:26 PM   #43
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Where on the throttle body? I had mine hooked up to one of the nipples on the back side by the brake booster vacuum. It’s hard to say, I wish you could easily get another p13 just to test. You have timing, you have spark, fuel, and compression. There isn’t much left when it comes to getting the car running. I do notice in the video you have a lot of wires all over the place in the Ecu area as well as a lot of vacuum lines plugged with bolts. Did you do anything else to the car besides 5 spd conversion or the motor swap?
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:16 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Where on the throttle body? I had mine hooked up to one of the nipples on the back side by the brake booster vacuum. It’s hard to say, I wish you could easily get another p13 just to test. You have timing, you have spark, fuel, and compression. There isn’t much left when it comes to getting the car running. I do notice in the video you have a lot of wires all over the place in the Ecu area as well as a lot of vacuum lines plugged with bolts. Did you do anything else to the car besides 5 spd conversion or the motor swap?
there is a lot of spare parts / extra wire on the floor of the front of the car cause all in the back is stuff I had to cram after I lost my garage lol the two connectors by the ECU for the TCM are unplugged, auto shifter still plugged in and set to the park position so I can get my key out / enable starter.

I got rid of that black box with the MAP and purge valve system for some reason along with the charcoal cannister, IAB is not hooked up and I plan on deleting the plate when its all running. Cruise control is also gone, so that left a few vac lines blank and I just had to loop them back to the IM so they don't leak, or put a bolt in it. EGR has a block-off plate, all the coolant sensors are plugged in to the right locations as well as IAT, TPS, IAC, VSS? So that just leaves the A/T connectors, like the two gray ones for shift solenoids and the one green one for idk what , but I jumpered the green one when I did the 5spd swap and that fixed my no spark years back with the F22.

I am pretty sure that just leaves VTEC and O2 wiring. A4 and D6 both go to the solenoid, still have code 21 never saw a code 22 yet. I un-did my O2 lengthening cause I got a code 43 (Fuel supply system) and thought maybe I added too much resistance with an non-engineered harness extension so I ended up peeling all the loom off the accord engine harness so I could get my O2 plug to just barely reach its new location, only to find that both connectors for my O2 sensor are male ends , so idk how im gonna plug it in.

I cant think of anything else, and I'm thinking about this car 24 / 7 . . . I've spent my last six months to a year staring dumbfoundedly at my engine compartment, and I'm still out there almost every day trying to get it to run normal. I appreciate you thinking through this with me, I hope I find a solution soon cause things went south with the county and it looks like my car has to be moved, preferably under its own terms . . . since I am out of time and its got nowhere to go , so I don't have very long to figure out why its not running. at this point I can close my eyes and picture every last detail of a CB7 and it just refuses to accept the fact that it's got an absolutely mint engine

Edit: I also deleted the FIV under the throttle body, to rule out it leaking vaccum and also attempting to make my bay look cleaner

Last edited by RabbittCB7; 07-14-2019 at 10:17 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:21 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Where on the throttle body? I had mine hooked up to one of the nipples on the back side
I hooked it up to the nipple on the throttle body, next to the throttle cable. Cause shouldn't it have no vaccum at idle, and vaccum under load to adjust the fuel mixture accordingly? I've tried it on just the back of the plenum too, it ran poorly either way
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:35 PM   #46
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Have you tried moving the dizzy at all? Full forward or backwards to see if that makes a difference? What do you plugs look like? Is it smoking at all? Can you rev it past any RPM? So just to confirm you only have a code 21 and 43 right now? Have you reset the ecu?
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Old 07-15-2019, 02:05 PM   #47
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Ive tried turning the dizzy but it doesn't really clean up it just freaks out and runs worse, even with the CEL connector jumpered. I reset the ECU every time I try something different, and I frequently switch between the P13 to PT3 (With the fuse out so I don't fry the computers) to see if there are any differences, but both ECU's behave relatively the same although that code 21 is really suspicious cause its on instantly before the engine is even started.


The plugs used to come out wet, I did the injectors and blocked off EGR and now they come out dry but blackened after only a minute of running. When everything was hooked up the best I could get it to do is rev-snap to about 5 or 6k , without wanting to damage anything. Rev N Hold causes the car to backfire like nuts out the exhaust , even if I just try to keep it at 2krpm. Sometimes you hear a ping from the engine, possibly pre-detonating fuel and for a little while I was hearing a really loud tick which sounded like a sticky valve but I couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Valve adjustment has been done and done again all within spec .006 int and .007 ext , basically it doesn't even have the power to get into 2nd gear and in first it stumbles a LOT and shakes pretty violently. I haven't driven the car more than 10 feet with the H22 installed.

After resetting the ECU only 21 is there, but after running for a couple minutes it will throw a 43. I realized butt connectoring to an old pigtail to extend the O2 wires is probably giving the wrong signal to the ECU so I tore off all my engine harness loom by taking the harness back out of the engine bay, and I "freed up" as much O2 sensor wiring as I could, and I just barely got it to reach but now I'm faced with the issue of both ends of my O2 sensor wiring circuit (Harness end and sensor end) That are supposed to plug in to eachother are both male connectors I think, so I gotta figure out how to connect my O2 sensor to the harness now without adding any resistance to the circuit to eliminate the possibility of O2 throwing 43. If it persists I guess I have a clapped out fuel pump, or maybe one of those "Remanufactured" Injectors aren't cutting the dice. but it chucks lots of fuel when you drop the fuel line into a jerry can and turn the key, and the engine starts really easy with lots of compression and even on a low battery, it starts really quick and then runs nice for a second as it revs up and then a second later its idling at 1000 with a misfire, or seeking up to 2k.

When I put my hand over the intake port and choke the engine, I do not hear any vaccum leaks. Right now I have the whole harness out so when I get back out there, I gotta have O2 figured out first and put the harness back in, and then I can try to run it and see what happens

But idk if that's gonna fix anything. I doubt a brand new O2 sensor not plugged in / not wired right would cause a misfire like that. I might have to drop the tank and go after the fuel pump next
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Old 07-15-2019, 04:53 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RabbittCB7 View Post
... Rev N Hold causes the car to backfire like nuts out the exhaust , even if I just try to keep it at 2krpm. Sometimes you hear a ping from the engine, possibly pre-detonating fuel and for a little while I was hearing a really loud tick which sounded like a sticky valve but I couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Valve adjustment has been done and done again all within spec .006 int and .007 ext , basically it doesn't even have the power to get into 2nd gear and in first it stumbles a LOT and shakes pretty violently. I haven't driven the car more than 10 feet with the H22 installed...
This sounds just like what I went thru when I found the #2 & #4 wires crossed for the injectors on my B16... when I found that, I couldn't believe that it even ran at all. Have you checked the injector wiring?

I know you're probably frustrated to the max but now is the time for patience, you're so close to the finish. When I get in a situation like this, I start tidying up all the "loose ends" that I didn't want to finish "until I knew it ran" That helps clear my head and keep moving forward.
My suggestion is to go thru the wiring and confirm proper location on both the ECU side and its termination point in the engine bay. I know it may seem like a waste of time but it could help you learn of the cause of your frustration.
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:45 AM   #49
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My injector wires seem to be set lengths like spark plug wires, so they only go on one way it seems but ill double check, I think the Code 43 that popped up after idling for two minutes is a hint, I'm gonna try a Denso or NTK sensor since the one I have was a cheap shit one off rockauto, and I'm gonna try to connect it without a hackjob extension wire. I'm also gonna try a FPR I grabbed at the junkyard yesterday as well as a starting air valve delete plate , I found these on a CB7 in the wrecker WITH AN H22A SWAP ! I couldn't believe it lol, it was a freshly painted engine like mine looked totally mint, no collisions on the vehicle so I had to wonder why it was in the wreckers. lol

Gonna try FPR, Starting air delete, and a fresh O2 sensor wired properly as well as a fuel pressure test.
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:54 AM   #50
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BTW Thanks Grumpsy and Blazer for the help so far, and thanks Deevergote ! Hopefully we'll have this figured out soon cause I'm just about out of time :L
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Old 07-16-2019, 03:17 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RabbittCB7 View Post
My injector wires seem to be set lengths like spark plug wires, so they only go on one way it seems but ill double check, I think the Code 43 that popped up after idling for two minutes is a hint, I'm gonna try a Denso or NTK sensor since the one I have was a cheap shit one off rockauto, and I'm gonna try to connect it without a hackjob extension wire. I'm also gonna try a FPR I grabbed at the junkyard yesterday as well as a starting air valve delete plate , I found these on a CB7 in the wrecker WITH AN H22A SWAP ! I couldn't believe it lol, it was a freshly painted engine like mine looked totally mint, no collisions on the vehicle so I had to wonder why it was in the wreckers. lol

Gonna try FPR, Starting air delete, and a fresh O2 sensor wired properly as well as a fuel pressure test.
Man I would have jumped all over that CB, Im shocked no1 has snagged it yet. As for the injectors, the colors that run to cylinders are:

Looking at the engine bay from the front:
Cylinder 4: Yellow Cylinder 3: Blue Cylinder 2: Red and Cylinder 1: Brown. Ive swapped them before so it can happen.

Your welcome for the help, I have been in your shoes before as well so I know how frustrating it can get.
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:12 PM   #52
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flipping thru a Chilton book I noticed there are apparently supposed to be marks on the fuel rail that you line up with the center line of the injectors. Would not doing that cause a miss? I didn't realize they had to be clocked. I haven't checked the wiring yet, still gotta find time to borrow a fuel pressure tester and rip up there
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Old 07-23-2019, 01:25 PM   #53
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I did a fuel pressure test, it primed to 40psi engine off, running it was 37psi and with FPR disconnected it was back to 40. after key off, at 40psi it will be at 30psi within a couple minutes, and eventually will go down to 20 after about 15 minutes. Seems normal to me, unless its supposed to hold the prime for longer than that ?

I have no clue what the hell is wrong with this car . . . oh man, I feel like this is gonna be just one more huge fail to add to my list. . .

I don't know what else to think of, should I try replacing the harness and starting from scratch ?

What all needs to be done to the accord harness to work on the H22 ? Do the pins all land in the right spot or does anything need to be repinned?

I know the Knock Sensor has to be added, and the oil pressure sensor has to have the end changed. O2 sensor needs to be "freed up" and re-wrapped so it can hang down by the firewall, A4 and D6 to VTEC. I want to run without IAB's, will that cause an issue on a P13?

Anything else need to be done to the harness? What MAP sensor do I use? distributor wire colors seem different, but it all plugs in, and I'm using external coil, as I was with the F22.

I got a new O2 sensor with the right plug end this time, but I seriously doubt the O2 sensor is causing a knock?

When the engine is warm, you can hear noise from the cylinder head, almost like its coming from the valvetrain.
Is .006 and .007 too tight?

If all this troubleshooting has lead to me breaking the engine, I'm done . . .
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:34 PM   #54
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A shot in the dark

Can I just make my own harness , standalone for the engine?

Like make a 3' harness that just runs all the sensors on the H22A1 to the P13 ECU, bypassing the chassis harness

as long as everything is soldered, will it work?

or does it have to be the OEM harness for resistance values to be correct? Does that matter?

Cause I can just snip all the harness ends off an H22 or an Accord at the wreckers and with a bit of wire and loom, I could connect everything pin by pin to where it needs to go, but IDK if certain wires have a specific resistance value that must be achieved in order for the sensor to function properly . . .

Thoughts?
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Old 07-27-2019, 04:59 PM   #55
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Test harness nearly complete

Gonna try and rule out wiring. Making a harness to connect the ECU to the engine harness standalone, without use of the vehicles chassis harness. As a test. Dunno if its gonna get me anywhere but I think it might be worth a shot, since the only other thing I can think of doing at this point is pulling the cylinder head if it still doesn't run any better. I sure hope the wiring helps out and I didn't waste all my tape lol been up til 2am for the last couple days and its really a simple harness compared to many others like Subaru.

https://gyazo.com/612879d7ed2326a94d926393d66334f8 Harness
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Old 07-29-2019, 02:41 PM   #56
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Made a janky mess of wire and wasted lots of tape, hopefully it actually works. . .



https://gyazo.com/41b29d4124229c6b3f9346ac6d66d66a



who needs a $1000 Mil-Spec Harness when you've got loads of junkyard wire, time, propane, solder wire, and a metric F*kton of tape !
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Old 07-29-2019, 05:04 PM   #57
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yes you can make a separate standalone harness. That's what I did for all the accessories and vtec wires on my crx. Word of advice, make a schematic of what location goes to what pin on the ecu/engine so if you need to troubleshoot the harness you have an idea where to look... even years down the road.
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:02 PM   #58
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I "finished" the harness and installed it on the car, I haven't been able to figure out how to jumper to fuel pump to make it run, so I left the PT3 plugged in at the passenger foot well and I plugged the P13 into the engine harness, so only one ECU controls the engine, and body functions are left to the original. I just keep going key on key off key on to build some fuel pressure. it actually ran good for about a second or two and it started to get rougher and rougher in a matter of a few more seconds, so I shut it off. The problem persists, I still have a lopey / missing idle making smoke and the car doesn't want to stay running . . . I might have just wasted a fkton of tape and a week of my time . . . I did a fresh oil change (again for like the 5th time) before starting the car with the new harness, because the oil smelled absolutely FULL of gas. when I drained it there was about a half a litre to a litre of gasoline in the oil. The fresh oil also smells like gas after just a few seconds of running the engine . . .

Anyone want to buy a CB? :/
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:30 PM   #59
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how come all my fresh motor oil instantly get thinned out with gasoline !? HELP !

I didn't realize I was gonna spend years of my life building an engine just to have it break before I even get it going . . .
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:28 PM   #60
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The only way gas would access the oil is if it seeped through your ring lands on your pistons and the spark plugs didn’t ignite it. You are 100% sure you have spark on all four cylinders? Still not throwing any codes? You said you did a compression test and it came back 185 across the board? You said you completely rebuilt this engine, did you off set the ring gaps so there isn’t a direct break all the way through? Are the rings on the piston in the proper order? I would almost have to say you may want to pull the motor back apart again.

What was the reason for the rebuild? I recall you saying the motor was in running condition.
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