F22a1 Head Work

[T-Netix]

I got an extra head so I wanna do head work and I wanna know wut all I can get in combo with port and polish to get decent gain... While keeping stock bottom end

[deevergote]

Good valves, upgraded valve springs, valve guides, retainers, a good camshaft, and an adjustable cam gear. All of these things can be found on bisimoto.com.

With a stock bottom end, though? I wouldn't. When the hed flows better, it makes power up high in the RPM range. Rev an old bottom end up high often, and you're asking for something to break. It's entirely possible that you'll put a piston into your expensive new head! Plus, the stock F22A compression is quite low. You'll see MUCH more from it if you increase compression. Get forged rods and pistons, and raise your comression level a bit. Replace all seals and gaskets, and get a tunable ECU (which you'll want even if you just do the head...)
Do it right, and you could easily make 220-250whp and still drive on pump gas.

[wed3k]

the only thing wrong with a higher mileage bottom end is rod bearings and rings.

[deevergote]

Yeah, but that's enough. If a rod bearing fails, it coudl be disastrous. And the low compression wouldn't really justify all the money put into the head.

[Hondas-R-us]

so deev would you rather work on head and bottom or do all at the same time?

[deevergote]

All at the same time. That's why I've done none of it on my own car so far! Once you start with that stuff, everything is closely linked with everything else.

[T-Netix]

ok so would a good cam shaft, cam gear, port n polish and p12 prelude ecu be too much for my 170k bottom end it's a daily driver so I want it to be fun, give si's a run for there money and practical cuz i'll do a h22 after this one(f22a1) dies

[deevergote]

Why do people think the P12 is some sort of performance modification? A P&P and an upgraded camshaft will run like shit with a stock ECU.

[Hondas-R-us]

id say if your doing any major work to an engine as such as upgrading the camshaft or vavles or anything in the head, get your ecu tuned to get full potential out of the upgrade. the stock ecu wouldnt recognize the upgraded camshaft because it thinks theres the stock one in it. therefore runing like shit

[deevergote]

It will see the increased oxygen intake by the o2 sensor readings and adjust... but it's not programmed to fuel properly for that much of a change in airflow. It may run, but not very well.

[Hondas-R-us]

so which ecu do you recommend for him to get to reprogram? or chip

[deevergote]

Same thing.
I recommend both he and you do more research.

[SINGLECAMSLAM]

Damn straight deev, ppl need to use the stickies and/or all the other recources out there instead of asking ppl to think for them. Also, for a little bit of bump in compression, you can also shave(mill)(deck) the head while it's off. Mine is shaved .080, and with supporting mods(p&p, cam, adj. Gear, intake Mani, tb, header, etc...) it does make quite the difference. Zeal (I think) has a damn good compression calculator. Also, please, don't just go and get the head cut, do your research. Understand why you're nodding things, not just cause someone else has it done, or says it's beneficial. An engine is like an orchestra, all the parts have to work together. An orchestra wouldn't sound good if you replaced a sax with an electric guitar, even if Hendrix was playing it...

[deevergote]

Shaving the head can have consequences, though. It will change cam timing a bit, and if you shave it enough, it will make it unsalvageable in the event of warpage.

[SINGLECAMSLAM]

Yes, it moves the cam and crank centerlines closer, wich is why it changes timing. That's why I bought the cam gear, mine is adjusted almost 2 degrees. Also, when I chose to shave so drastically, I accepted the fact that the $600 and 30+ hours I have into the head will be gone in the event of any damage, as it made the deck too thin to ever shave again. .080, or 2mm is the most I've ever heard of anyone shaving the head. That, and my one layer (ok, 2) head gasket give me .029 quench wich is perfect for tight bearings, forged rods and pump gas. Everything must be planned perfectly and researched thouroughly before any modding.