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    #16
    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
    It's not usually wise to listen to people at autoparts stores. Most of them have no clue.
    However, yes... in this case, if your CEL is actually on (but with a blown bulb), then the ECU may be in limp mode. Limp mode really just means that the ECU is fueling according to a conservative fuel table, rather than from normal sensor feedback. It's designed to prevent as much damage as possible when something is malfunctioning. VTEC won't usually work with a CEL, at the very least.
    I work at a part store............lol. But I know what you mean. I have to call store to store sometimes for parts and half the people I talk to don't have a clue as what I'm talking about. I'm like how did you get this job?

    my new turbo build

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      #17
      I went to Autozone one time looking for an o2 sensor bung plug. I had an o2 sensor in my hand, to check the size and thread pitch. I walked up to an employee, told him what I needed, and he lit up like a happy puppy. He said "I know what you need!" and bounced off to the tool aisle, only to return with an o2 sensor socket, for removing the sensor... that I had in my hand...

      If I had a newspaper, I'd have rolled it up and smacked him on the nose with it.






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        #18
        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
        I went to Autozone one time looking for an o2 sensor bung plug. I had an o2 sensor in my hand, to check the size and thread pitch. I walked up to an employee, told him what I needed, and he lit up like a happy puppy. He said "I know what you need!" and bounced off to the tool aisle, only to return with an o2 sensor socket, for removing the sensor... that I had in my hand...

        If I had a newspaper, I'd have rolled it up and smacked him on the nose with it.
        Lmao. Damn did you shut him down at least?

        my new turbo build

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          #19
          I think, for once, I was actually speechless.






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            #20
            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
            I think, for once, I was actually speechless.
            i have seen some crazy stuff people try and do aswell...

            my new turbo build

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              #21
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              It's not usually wise to listen to people at autoparts stores. Most of them have no clue.
              However, yes... in this case, if your CEL is actually on (but with a blown bulb), then the ECU may be in limp mode. Limp mode really just means that the ECU is fueling according to a conservative fuel table, rather than from normal sensor feedback. It's designed to prevent as much damage as possible when something is malfunctioning. VTEC won't usually work with a CEL, at the very least.
              OK sorry about the delay...today I got around to pulling the cluster, which we all know is a cluster fuck of a job, see what I did there? lol...the bulb was indeed blown...i now have a consistent check engine light. Car is still in limp mode or not going over 3.5k.

              Got bored today and decided to swap my new ecu with my older one. The car now starts up faster and runs smoother. Not entirely sure why, because they are both the same ecu. Anyways it still can not go over 3.5k...I now believe it is something under the hood. Any ideas??

              Damn I wish I could pull the codes from the ecu!
              F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

              91' Accord Project

              Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                #22
                Constant CEL means your ECU is shot. Further evidenced by the fact that the old ECU runs the engine just fine.

                Is the CEL on with the old ECU? (the one that runs it better, that is)
                If there's no CEL with the old ECU, and the engine still won't go over 3.5k, my first thought is valve timing. Check that your timing belt hasn't jumped a tooth.






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                  #23
                  Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                  Constant CEL means your ECU is shot. Further evidenced by the fact that the old ECU runs the engine just fine.

                  Is the CEL on with the old ECU? (the one that runs it better, that is)
                  If there's no CEL with the old ECU, and the engine still won't go over 3.5k, my first thought is valve timing. Check that your timing belt hasn't jumped a tooth.
                  Both ECUs have a check engine light. Not entirely sure how that means the ECU is shot, considering it still runs the car; that check engine light could be for a lot of things, like my 02 sensor (not currently connected), no EGR (Never liked the concept of fuel vapors flowing around), etc. However if so, is there a better ECU to run this engine? I am trying to drive this car to the Furious 7 premiere, i need this thing to change timing lol. Otherwise it will roll as is, probably be pretty slow with only 3.5k at best.

                  Also another suspicion of mines, do you think the TDC sensor could play a role here? I also noticed my speedometer no longer works. This car runs so rich that it pops sometimes.
                  F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

                  91' Accord Project

                  Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                    #24
                    Hmmm not reving past 3.5 k sounds like ur ecu is in limp mode.
                    insure ur timing is correct cly 1 at top dead center with all marks aligned. With the dizzy cap off rotors metal contact pointing at wire 1. Ensure you have the correct ecu for ur swap the proceed to check knock sensor pins vtec solenoids pins and oil pressure switch. After all that checks out is your oil dirty
                    The pick up screen for the oil pump could be clogged starving your motor for oil pressure ,which vtec rely on.
                    a person who looks at somthing and see it as waste is no person at all but he who see what it could be will suceed
                    out with the old and in with the new

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by DGOfTheCentury View Post
                      Both ECUs have a check engine light. Not entirely sure how that means the ECU is shot, considering it still runs the car; that check engine light could be for a lot of things, like my 02 sensor (not currently connected), no EGR (Never liked the concept of fuel vapors flowing around), etc. However if so, is there a better ECU to run this engine? I am trying to drive this car to the Furious 7 premiere, i need this thing to change timing lol. Otherwise it will roll as is, probably be pretty slow with only 3.5k at best.

                      Also another suspicion of mines, do you think the TDC sensor could play a role here? I also noticed my speedometer no longer works. This car runs so rich that it pops sometimes.
                      I figured you meant the CEL stayed on when you attempted to pull the code. That means the ECU is bad. Have you actually attempted to pull the error codes from the ECU? That would be able to help you a LOT more than the rest of us simply guessing...

                      You have the correct ECU for the engine. There is no better. You need to figure out where the problems are, be it in defective sensors, bad wiring, or an issue with the custom swap work that was done.

                      Speedometer is controlled by the VSS.






                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        I figured you meant the CEL stayed on when you attempted to pull the code. That means the ECU is bad. Have you actually attempted to pull the error codes from the ECU? That would be able to help you a LOT more than the rest of us simply guessing...

                        You have the correct ECU for the engine. There is no better. You need to figure out where the problems are, be it in defective sensors, bad wiring, or an issue with the custom swap work that was done.

                        Speedometer is controlled by the VSS.

                        Both ECUs have burn marks, but in different spots. They also both perform differently. The new one has always taken a while to start the car. The old one starts her right away. I think the old one sustained some water damage from my pillar leaking. The new one somehow got burned up. Around the Q30 module on the board, there is smoke evidence and singed MB.

                        I also had a 40amp fuse in the #2 slot on the internal fuse box. Took me a while to determine why that circuit had such a high current. Checked under the hood and found one connector improperly connected. The connector is among the black box, on the same line that the Map sensor is on. I just left it unplugged, because i have not idea what it is for.

                        After that, i then bought some new 15 amp fuses and they did not pop. However, the damage was done to my new ECU. Just for shits and giggles i cranked her up, it took a while, but the car started. Was rough at first then it normalized.

                        The car ran that damaged new ECU for a while. Till just recently i swapped my old ECU back in. It starts the car up every time. Even before the fuel pump has fully purged. The new one could not do that. Nor did it start up so smoothly. I have attempted to pull the codes from the old ECU - since i decided it was better - , but the light just stays solid.

                        Based on what you said, I might just have to buy another ECU. I assume i fixed the issue, because the fuse is not blowing, so it should be safe to put another new one in. POAs are a dime a dozen tbh

                        Would the ECU prevent the VSS from working? Or should i look into replacing that too, since it does not seem to work.
                        F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

                        91' Accord Project

                        Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                          #27
                          I don't imagine the ECU would prevent the VSS from working, so you're likely going to have to replace that regardless. Have you attempted to pull your codes, now that your CEL is working again? If not, do that.

                          If both ECUs show visible damage, then yes, both are likely no good. You will either need to repair one, or buy a replacement.
                          Do you have the PT3 that came with your car? That would run it well enough to drive, just with no VTEC. My H22A is currently running on a PT3, to avoid damaging my chipped P28 as I get it fixed up (it's been sitting since 2007.)






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                            #28
                            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                            I don't imagine the ECU would prevent the VSS from working, so you're likely going to have to replace that regardless. Have you attempted to pull your codes, now that your CEL is working again? If not, do that.

                            If both ECUs show visible damage, then yes, both are likely no good. You will either need to repair one, or buy a replacement.
                            Do you have the PT3 that came with your car? That would run it well enough to drive, just with no VTEC. My H22A is currently running on a PT3, to avoid damaging my chipped P28 as I get it fixed up (it's been sitting since 2007.)
                            Yes I have since shorted the connector so the CEL blinks the codes, but it just stays solid.

                            Unfortunately, I sold the PT3. So I guess another POA lol. Probably going to buy it sometime next week. I also plan on changing the oil and dropping the pan to check tht filter.

                            H22 swap is awesome. I want to do a F20c or a K20.
                            F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

                            91' Accord Project

                            Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                              I don't imagine the ECU would prevent the VSS from working, so you're likely going to have to replace that regardless. Have you attempted to pull your codes, now that your CEL is working again? If not, do that.

                              If both ECUs show visible damage, then yes, both are likely no good. You will either need to repair one, or buy a replacement.
                              Do you have the PT3 that came with your car? That would run it well enough to drive, just with no VTEC. My H22A is currently running on a PT3, to avoid damaging my chipped P28 as I get it fixed up (it's been sitting since 2007.)
                              Got my new ECU. Still No VTEC, still revs under 3.5k. However, i can now pull codes. Today it signaled 21 (two solid flashes, one strobe flash) this code has something to do with the VTEC Solenoid, but even with the VTEC inoperable the car should still be able to rev to the rev limit; which you stated before. I also saw a car do it in a video as well.

                              Things up next: Considering an oil change, and a new distributor. I strongly believe the CPS is no good. The car takes a while to start and barely runs at first, unless you give it gas, otherwise it will just shut off. I can also hear a couple of miss fires sometimes. These are majority issues brought upon by a bad CPS in my experience; could be bad timing as well, but i strongly doubt this motor is out of timing, plus i would not be able to check that anyways, because f22b1. The PT3 ran her fine so...the CPS has probably gone out since then, a lot of mechanics have told me that the older distributors are famous for that.

                              Think i am going to reset the computer and run it again tomorrow, to see if i can get the CPS code. If not, i will just proceed as planned, just to eliminate the possibility.

                              Any advice?
                              F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

                              91' Accord Project

                              Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                                #30
                                So today I changed the oil, changed the valve cover gasket (leaked a little), replaced the oil filter, and pulled the VTEC solenoid.

                                The connector for the pressure switch was broken internally and not making contact, so I fixed that. However, when it was time to start the car, I still had the same problem. Would not rev over 3.5k, plus I checked both the pressure switch and vtec solenoid. The were both operational.

                                While I was letting the car run, I let it run longer than I normally would. Then turned it off, but when I tried to start the car back up she would not start at all. So I waited for the car to cool down. When I came back after an hour to start her, it was instantaneous. So I believe I have pin pointed my problem. Bad CPS..the car is also in limp mode, and that sensor has the potential to put the ecu in that mode.

                                Any objections?
                                F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

                                91' Accord Project

                                Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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