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Old 09-24-2019, 09:29 PM   #21
dreamability
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Well She's on the ground for the first time in 18 months! Couldn't help myself and had to take it around the block a couple times. The car drives amazing!
With the suspension I'm not sure if it just hasn't settled enough yet or if I'll have to go back through and lower the spring seats a notch on the Konis.
Currently on the rear one side is three fingers from the fender and the other is two.

I'm waiting on a couple fittings and a hose for the aluminum reservoir I put in and finish the power steering.
However after driving briefly without it I don't want it! I'd never driven without the pump hooked up, its easy to steer and feels great!
Wish I'd known this before I put the engine back in!
Well for now Ill just finish the set up but I definitely would like to get rid of it.
I'll be looking for info on deleting it.

Also I have another video up of the engine install.
https://youtu.be/Iv0MtNzaES0



Last edited by dreamability; 09-25-2019 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 09-25-2019, 04:35 AM   #22
Raf99
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Looks great man! And OMG putting an engine in is way easier with 2+ people
And ya, you're going to have to disconnect that PS line to move it, but no big deal.
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Old 10-06-2019, 02:05 PM   #23
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The engine bay looks fantastic! It's good to see you've had the chance to drive it. I've been driving my car for about 5 years now without power steering and it's been just one less thing to worry about. Ultimately I want to try out the diy that removes the springs or valves out of the rack that makes it even easier to steer. Good stuff man.
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Old 10-10-2019, 10:21 PM   #24
dreamability
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Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Looks great man! And OMG putting an engine in is way easier with 2+ people
And ya, you're going to have to disconnect that PS line to move it, but no big deal.
Thanks. Yeah I'm definitely down for having help, lol.
I'm sure one of my roommates would have been happy to help but I was stuck on "all done by me".
Really it wasn't that bad though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1357 View Post
The engine bay looks fantastic! It's good to see you've had the chance to drive it. I've been driving my car for about 5 years now without power steering and it's been just one less thing to worry about. Ultimately I want to try out the diy that removes the springs or valves out of the rack that makes it even easier to steer. Good stuff man.
Thanks Mike. Yeah I'm really happy with it. I'm actually almost done with her just haven't had time to do a proper update yet.
For the power steering that is exactly what I'm planning to do. Just gonna grab one out of the yard, rebuild it and convert it.
For now the power steering and aluminium reservoir are all hooked up and working good. No leaks.
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Old 11-06-2019, 09:25 PM   #25
dreamability
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Well I've been slacking off on documenting the work and progress.
However I have not been slacking on the work and progress, lol.
I really wanted to get her done and on the road after 18 months so I just went all out on it the last few weeks.
Its been a ton of fun! Love the Koni's with Vogtland springs on the Cooper performance tires.
Incredible handling through the corners and a comfortable ride.

I was able to take it to Import Face Off on November 3rd and put her in the show.
She actually Won! Best old school!
Pretty cool and a nice surprise since I was right next to a super clean right hand drive JDM 3rd Gen Prelude!
Also this guy Chris, shot some nice video of it at the show and posted it. I'll link it here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6swY...A&index=2&t=0s

This winter I'll be putting in new adjustable rear control / toe arms, front SPC camber ball joints.
Getting my p28 so I can quit throwing a cell for EGR.
I have it all hooked up under the dash vacuum and all but no luck it still throws the cell.

Anyway here are a few new pics.
I'll also link my YouTube again for anyone not on yet.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWG..._as=subscriber
I'll have some new content up in a couple weeks.
Thanks!











Last edited by dreamability; 11-07-2019 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 11-06-2019, 10:00 PM   #26
fleetw00d
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Congratulations!
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Old 11-08-2019, 06:59 PM   #27
CyborgGT
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Very nice work, that award is well deserved.
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Old 11-08-2019, 08:46 PM   #28
HondaGuy1212
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Really like the choice of color for the engine bay accents. Love the build!
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:35 AM   #29
Raf99
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ya that looks amazing and congrats!
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:47 AM   #30
blazercrx
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meticulous attention to detail, it looks amazing. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work. It helps me to stay motivated seeing such beauty.
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Old 04-14-2020, 08:58 PM   #31
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love that build
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Old 04-17-2020, 07:46 PM   #32
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Beautiful.
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Old 05-02-2020, 12:53 AM   #33
dreamability
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First of all thanks to everyone for all the support in this journey, on here and elsewhere. Its greatly appreciated!

Well once again been to long since I updated.
I went to IMF again here in Ennis Texas on March 8th. A week later everything was canceled.
Had a great turn out though, 300+ entries in show.
Even still I brought home Best Engine Bay!!!
Thats one I really wanted to win, lol. I was blown away. Pretty great experience for sure.


So I've been doing a lot of planning, shopping and purchasing since then.
I had Web make my cam, picked up a set of Bisimoto Pro springs, 70mm TB, an H23A1 intake and plenum, and also picked up my chipped p28.
I also have lined up to have it dyno tuned at Redline Performance here in Arlington once I get this all done.




Decided to get an adjustable fuel Regulator and gauge to add for the tuner, (just in case), and replace the tired 30 year old fuel pump with a Walbro.
So... I put her up in the gurage to drop the tank and put in the pump.
Here's where it all took a turn, lol.

After pulling the tank I couldn't put it back looking like this.



After a good cleaning I stripped all the rust and did a base coat with a rust inhibitor. Then used some chassis paint over that.



Ok so now pumps all soldered in and I'm ready to put the tank back, right?
Well no. I figured I'd like to not have to drop the tank in the future so I picked up the Civic fuel pump access panel and went ahead and did some cutting and filed everything nice and smooth. Tanks just on a jack underneath for reference. Yes, it is plugged and sealed from the shavings.



So now I can get the tank back in and start on the engine work
Well..... Actually after spending some time under the back end I couldn't not fix some things I saw wrong.
Namely Everything!

All the bushing are toast and its just a mess overall.
So I got to ordering my parts and went about dropping the sub-frame.
Pretty easy, just a mess though.



So most my parts have shown up. Its already torn apart now. I did have to sawzall the toe arm cam bolts.
I had been looking at HardRace solid bushing for the trailing arms when I ran into some new complete arms with solid bushings!
They're Mevotech. They released a line called Supreme as a heavy duty performance upgrade.
Figured Id give them a try. Honestly the quality looks really good but only time will tell.



I also picked up a 5th gen EX 27mm front sway bar, 17mm Acura CL rear sway bar as well as The 25T calipers and brackets.
Also picked up the full front kit of Energy Suspension bushings.



I have all the caliper rebuild kits, front and rear. Also was able to finally find a 282mm HOR set of front rotors.
First couple of tries they gave me 260mm or ROH rotors. Seems to be an issue due to the 97 CL being the only year like that.
This has lead to another problem. I cant find the right pads. I ordered some Akebono's and they fit the 260mm rotor.
They fit the 25T bracket but not the 282mm rotor.
Here is a shot of it on the 282mm Rotor. Its clearly to small.
Also the curvature is way sharper and does not fallow the curve of the rotor.
Second shot is of it on the cars current 260mm rotor.



You can look on Rockauto for a 97 CL 3.0 and it gives these, Akebono ASP503A.
I've also tried Wagons, V6 5th gen, and the Odyssey but they all come up the same part numbers.
If anyone has a part number that is the right pad for a 282mm x 25mm rotor Id greatly appreciate it.

I've made a post under Parts and Performance/Suspension asking about deciding on Ground control custom spring rates if anyone would like to chime in.

Thanks for checking out the updates. Hope everyone is well and getting through the current trials ok.
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Old 05-02-2020, 10:33 AM   #34
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Congrats on the award man! Nice to at least have one! Print that photo and put it on your wall!

Umm thinking those are the 11.1 rotors, so rear cb7 wagon? or Prelude rear pads?
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Old 05-09-2020, 11:00 PM   #35
dreamability
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Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Congrats on the award man! Nice to at least have one! Print that photo and put it on your wall!

Umm thinking those are the 11.1 rotors, so rear cb7 wagon? or Prelude rear pads?
Thanks Brother. Yep, that's two wins now, lol. Last year was best old school.
Winning best bay though this year was pretty damn sweet!


Back on the topic of the 97 CL front 282mm(11.1" rotors) I still cant find pads the use the extra 20mm surface from stock.
Ive been through the whole list of front pads for the 11.1" 282mm rotor
and all of them so far have been the same width across as the pads for our stock 260mm rotors.
I've tried 91-97 Accord wagon, 5th gen V6, 97 Acura 3.0CL, and the 95-98 Odyssey.
They all leave like a 1\3 of an inch or 10mm of surface area uncovered by the pad like the image in my last post.
So basically I'm getting a bigger rotor, bigger caliper but not getting any extra surface area contact between the pad and rotor as my current 260mm. Doesn't make any sense.

In the mean time I decided to throw the rear knuckles into an electrolysis bath to get the rust and paint off. Way easier than doing it by hand.



Before and After
It took about 10 hours to get this result.



My new rear hub and bearing assemblies came in



Sanded off all the rust from the rear sub-frame. Then primered, sanded and three coats of chassis paint.




So now onto cleaning the undercarriage and get it prepped for paint.
So much dirt! Nothing like laying right under it and knocking it all loose, lol.
Full respirator and goggles of course.


Last edited by dreamability; 05-09-2020 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:23 AM   #36
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Looks good! I've done this before and did POR30 to the underside. (cleaning the whole undercarriage above the gas tank) . Pay attention to the brake line that runs up there and make sure it's not rusting on the top side or in rough shape. PITA to fix down the road! Do you use dish soap for your electrolysis?
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Old 05-11-2020, 09:40 PM   #37
dreamability
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Looks good! I've done this before and did POR30 to the underside. (cleaning the whole undercarriage above the gas tank) . Pay attention to the brake line that runs up there and make sure it's not rusting on the top side or in rough shape. PITA to fix down the road! Do you use dish soap for your electrolysis?
Brake lines above the tank are in good shape but can't say the same for the fuel lines.
I'll be replacing some of those for sure.

I'm using Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda for the electrolysis with a 12 volt 6 amp battery charger.
.
.
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Old 05-11-2020, 09:44 PM   #38
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liking the build for sure. later.
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Old 05-12-2020, 07:38 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamability View Post
Brake lines above the tank are in good shape but can't say the same for the fuel lines.
I'll be replacing some of those for sure.

I'm using Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda for the electrolysis with a 12 volt 6 amp battery charger.
.
.
Yep, same way I do it. Oh man... was I thankful to the guy who showed me this! (think he's on here somewhere). I try to tell others about it but they think it's all witchcraft :P I'll say it's easy....! Tell them what to buy... but i guess the electricity and water part scares them. I find them still sanding parts down like I did when i was in their shoes :P
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Old 06-02-2020, 02:10 PM   #40
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Love the details in the coupe!! Muy bueno sir!!!
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Excuse me miss, YOUR FUPA IS IN THE WAY!!!
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