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Old 07-12-2018, 04:03 PM   #721
CyborgGT
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Perfect reply, thanks! I'm trying to avoid the pillar pod. Looks too street-racey to me, and I'd prefer something closer to OEM. So far I've just got a custom cluster in the glove box. It looks great, since I could flock it to match the glove box liner if I wanted, but I'd really like oil temp and pressure in immediate sight. Might be worth trying to buff a slight shine into the Ortiz.
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:31 PM   #722
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Yeah I really didn't want the A pillar for the same reasons. I thought about sanding it all down and painting it with some different paint or trying to buff this one. There are just so many tiny ledges and hard 90* corners that it would take many hours to do. I just haven't had the time to put it on the list of modifications to make to the car. Eventually I'm going to do something about it. Not sure when, the list of crap to do doesn't ever seem to get smaller no matter how much stuff I keep doing to the car. Oil pressure is the next gauge on the list to fill out the Ortiz pods.
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:38 PM   #723
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I forgot to list one other thing that I've done to Lola.

Sonikaccord was nice enough to do a few mods on my ECU for me.

- Install Xenocron IAB kit
- Re-install resistors for ELD
- Solder in knock daughter board

I have received it back and re-installed it into Lola. The H22 is so much more free with a tuned ECU than the stock P13.

Some bad news about this, is that the knock board still doesn't work meaning the PCB main board doesn't have all the circuitry needed even with the daughter board there.

The ELD circuity is back though so now when things kick on the engine doesn't bog out. This is a huge improvement. I've wired the wideband O2 sensor to the extra wiring that you can purchase for the S300 V3.

The IAB circuitry is working I believe. I think my solenoid on the IAB is bad though, so I can't verify this for sure at the moment. I did grab a few IAB assemblies up at the other garage last night, so I will know soon.
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Old 07-12-2018, 05:51 PM   #724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH-503P-3 View Post
The car is looking incredibly nice Will. You might not want to button up that column with a 5th gen combo switch just yet. Iíve got an MDX lighting combo switch mod coming. Same style stalk but with automatic light function and soon DRL also.
I noticed the CL carpet with the black trunk/gas plastics. Itís really not a bad mix. The more black you add to the interior, the darker the carpet will look. Itís a great choice as Black coupe carpet is a pretty scarce option. CB carpet is shit compared to the CL stuff anyways lol.
Also to note: the A11 controller comes from 95 V6 Accords. 96 & up is an A12 and wonít work.
I know it's a '95 I just had some fat fingers.

I have all of the extra black trim pieces for a coupe. You just don't seem them most of the time in my pictures. If you notice there is the black passengers foot well kick plate. I think between the black and grey that is the end goal the carpet will look just right. I also have a set of CD5 grey floor mats I'm going to see how they fit in the Accord. I might wait to see the MDX stalk works, then again I could have a CD5 light stalk fully modded in about an hour. I'm really hoping to find a grey EX coupe soon, so I can get the interior finished out.

So true that the CL carpet is so much nicer than the Accord carpets!

Thanks again for the light switches they are very nice.
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:47 AM   #725
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Yesterday I received the B series Civic radiator and got it installed into Lola. I'm really hoping that this will solve my overheating issues. Granted it wasn't overheating like you might think. Just while driving the temps would start to climb up and eventually it would overheat, but knowing it would doing this I could compensate and keep it from overheating. Granted out summer isn't hot yet and I was having problems already I really needed to get it solved. I bled the system and let it warm up to temp and cycle the coolant a few times, before calling it a night. I also managed to get 3 things knocked off the list for old Lola. New upper radiator hose, replaced the driver side motor mount bracket, and installed the timing covers. I'm finally making some real progress on old Lola, thank goodness!
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:42 PM   #726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
Yesterday I received the B series Civic radiator and got it installed into Lola. I'm really hoping that this will solve my overheating issues. Granted it wasn't overheating like you might think. Just while driving the temps would start to climb up and eventually it would overheat, but knowing it would doing this I could compensate and keep it from overheating. Granted out summer isn't hot yet and I was having problems already I really needed to get it solved. I bled the system and let it warm up to temp and cycle the coolant a few times, before calling it a night. I also managed to get 3 things knocked off the list for old Lola. New upper radiator hose, replaced the driver side motor mount bracket, and installed the timing covers. I'm finally making some real progress on old Lola, thank goodness!
Sweeet. Just curious, how were you compensating for the over heating?
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Old 07-13-2018, 10:31 PM   #727
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Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Sweeet. Just curious, how were you compensating for the over heating?
Drove slower, speed limits on the interstate around here is 80 MPH, I was only going around 70 MPH putting less load on the engine. Also I cut all the accessories except the blower motor at full blast, while turning the heat to 1/2 to allow the heater core to act as a 2nd radiator to dissipate heat. I stopped and kicked open the rear coupe wing windows, rolled the front windows down only about 1/3 of the way (to create less drag for the engine to pull, as the cabin is a giant parachute when the windows are down), and opened the sunroof about 1/2 way. This allowed the car to maintain a consistent temp on the trip home, granted I was sweating my balls off.
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Old 07-14-2018, 12:46 PM   #728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
Drove slower, speed limits on the interstate around here is 80 MPH, I was only going around 70 MPH putting less load on the engine. Also I cut all the accessories except the blower motor at full blast, while turning the heat to 1/2 to allow the heater core to act as a 2nd radiator to dissipate heat. I stopped and kicked open the rear coupe wing windows, rolled the front windows down only about 1/3 of the way (to create less drag for the engine to pull, as the cabin is a giant parachute when the windows are down), and opened the sunroof about 1/2 way. This allowed the car to maintain a consistent temp on the trip home, granted I was sweating my balls off.
So did you find the answer? This all sounds like a water pump with worn down blades....
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Old 07-14-2018, 03:39 PM   #729
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Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
So did you find the answer? This all sounds like a water pump with worn down blades....
I doubt it's the water pump, was brand new OEM when I rebuilt the engine, doubt it's worn out in 12k miles.

These are the first instances of driving the car in hot temps with the Civic radiator. When I first swapped it, it was December or something.

I think I found the answer is I can't use A/C in town with a Civic radiator. Still thinking about a block off plate in the front half of the condenser. Unlike almost all of you that have the Civic radiators almost none of you if any have kept the A/C system. So I'm having to figure out how to keep the temps down with another system generating heat in front of the smaller radiator as well.

Out on the interstate or highways things seem to be alright. I'm going to go on another drive today, and see what I discover in some hot temps. I did just go out and grab lunch in Lola and in traffic with the A/C on the temps were starting to climb. After switching the A/C off and driving a few blocks the temp was right back to normal.

Another possibility may be the fact that I need to separate out my fans? I have them stacked currently. Something like follows:

XXXXXXXXX----Fan------
------Condenser---------
XXXXXXXXX-----Rad----
XXXXXXXXX----Fan-----

The X's are empty space since web forums ignore spaces and I don't want to lookup the web code to do it.

I know this isn't the best but it represents how the front of the car is configured currently. The fan in the front is the condenser fan that used to be in front of the exhaust manifold/header. I rerouted the wiring and placed a slim fan on the condenser. Would a better setup be something like follows?

-------Condenser---------
---Fan----XXX-----Rad----
XXXXXXXXXX-----Fan----

This would dissipate more heat off the condenser, that wouldn't have to be being sucked through the radiator as well? Do I need to build a block off plate of aluminium with circles cut to only allow air through where the fans are?

Always up for tips and comments guys!
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:17 PM   #730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
I doubt it's the water pump, was brand new OEM when I rebuilt the engine, doubt it's worn out in 12k miles.

These are the first instances of driving the car in hot temps with the Civic radiator. When I first swapped it, it was December or something.

I think I found the answer is I can't use A/C in town with a Civic radiator. Still thinking about a block off plate in the front half of the condenser. Unlike almost all of you that have the Civic radiators almost none of you if any have kept the A/C system. So I'm having to figure out how to keep the temps down with another system generating heat in front of the smaller radiator as well.

Out on the interstate or highways things seem to be alright. I'm going to go on another drive today, and see what I discover in some hot temps. I did just go out and grab lunch in Lola and in traffic with the A/C on the temps were starting to climb. After switching the A/C off and driving a few blocks the temp was right back to normal.

Another possibility may be the fact that I need to separate out my fans? I have them stacked currently. Something like follows:

-----------------Fan------
------Condenser---------
XXXXXXXXX-----Rad----
XXXXXXXXX----Fan-----

The X's are empty space since web forums ignore spaces and I don't want to lookup the web code to do it.

I know this isn't the best but it represents how the front of the car is configured currently. The fan in the front is the condenser fan that used to be in front of the exhaust manifold/header. I rerouted the wiring and placed a slim fan on the condenser. Would a better setup be something like follows?

-------Condenser---------
---Fan----XXX-----Rad----
XXXXXXXXXX-----Fan----

This would dissipate more heat off the condenser, that wouldn't have to be being sucked through the radiator as well? Do I need to build a block off plate of aluminium with circles cut to only allow air through where the fans are?

Always up for tips and comments guys!

Ya, i see your problem. Why not just have......

-----Condenser----
-----R---a---d-----
-----F---a---n-----

and block off one half. My setup was this...

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Old 07-14-2018, 04:28 PM   #731
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Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Ya, i see your problem. Why not just have......

-----Condenser----
-----R---a---d-----
-----F---a---n-----

and block off one half. My setup was this...
So basically just leave both fans as they are, and build a block off plate for the front half of the condenser.
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Old 07-18-2018, 10:53 AM   #732
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Alright so I used some cardboard to make a template for a block off plate. I didn't make the final product as I wanted to test if this works, before investing the time for a final version.

I went for a drive and well temps will maintain at operating temperature, unless I overload the engine, or turn on A/C. While this is an improvement it's not really great either. I took the time to check the flow of both fans to make sure they weren't battling each other. The front one is pulling air while the rear one is pushing air. As it should be. I ordered a 10" and 12" Mishimoto fans to replace the craptacular Chinese garbage fans. I'm seriously hoping that this will fix the cooling issues that I have been having. Worst case scenario I might have to buy a full size radiator. I'm hoping the 2 good fans will work and maybe add a 3rd fan on the condenser only side.

I also managed to get the reverse lights wired into the car, finally!

I still need to get the neutral safety switch wired in as well, but I'm waiting on some connectors in the mail.
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Old 07-18-2018, 07:59 PM   #733
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Ya, you just want all air going through radiators only. The fans are there for slow speeds when the engine is hot; ie - they are not on when you are on the highway. An OEM setup they use one fan for each side obviously. But they could of also used a half rad + condenser + 1 fan. That would work too as we all know the accord, civic, prelude, etc can run on a half rad fine.

If you are on the highway and turning on AC, overloading the engine and temps are going up, that's not a cooling problem with fans and rads. (in my opinion). True it's the ability of the cooling system that cannot keep up but there's a deeper problem if you can't keep it cool at highway speeds (no matter what the load).

You know what i mean? ........
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Old 07-18-2018, 10:24 PM   #734
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While I do agree and I don't. One issue I forgot to mention on my last drive is one of my side pieces of weather stripping blew out. On the other radiator it was tight between the condenser and radiator. While on this one it was a bit loose and blew out. I have since replace this piece of weather stripping, which could have attributed to the slight overheating.

I partially agree with you Raf, but there is one thing that has changed about my setup overall. I've lost surface area to cool the radiator, but have maintained roughly the same amount of coolant. I have a feeling it's to do with having a condenser, and almost all other people not keeping A/C. It's extra heat and reduced air flow to the smaller radiator. The highway it was more or less good, I just couldn't keep the A/C on for more than 2-3 mins before temps started to climb.

It also doesn't help that about 1/3 of the available fan area is covered all up in the front of the car. I've been thinking about making a block off plate that will keep the air from going over to the passenger side. Basically hit the plate and have go through the radiator/condenser. Possibly another across the top to keep the air from going up and hitting the hood.

Maybe I'm over thinking this, but I doubt either the new OEM water pump, or the new OEM thermostat are bad.

Exact same engine running last summer in temps up to 105* F with no problem on a stock plastic radiator, with A/C all the time. I swapped the radiator over the winter and now in the warmer temps I'm having problems. I have also confirmed that the temp switches are good as the kick on the fans while running and after being parked.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:24 AM   #735
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Ya, post a pic if you can.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:28 AM   #736
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Yeah I have pictures, just haven't had the time to sit down and upload and link them yet. Hoping to get that done when I get home from work today.
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Old 07-19-2018, 03:43 PM   #737
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Agree with RAF


Probably something in your coolant system. Maybe just an air bubble
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Old 07-23-2018, 10:56 AM   #738
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In other news we don't have to move now. Which is great and not, I mean most of our crap was all packed up and ready to go. Now we get to unpack that stuff again... On top of that since we aren't moving the GF decided it was time to rearrange parts of the house, so that pretty much ate up the whole weekend.

Alright between Friday night and Saturday I built some new block off plates. These come out from the condenser and go into the bumper, trapping all the air incoming in that area to be force to go through the condenser and radiator without taking the paths of least resistance. I didn't get to go driving and test this, although after a little testing on Sunday I don't think it will matter.

On Sunday afternoon I had a little more time to poke at the car, so I hooked up the A/C manifold gauges to monitor the A/C system while running, with the current configuration. What I learned is that the high side pressure just slowly builds higher and higher. This is due to the condenser getting hotter and hotter. I'm going to unhook the pusher fan I have in front of the radiator, and a second one next to it on the condenser. Hopefully this will help evacuate enough heat from it that the radiator can maintain temps on the engine. If I can't come up with a working solution to this, I may have to swap back to the full size radiator. I'm really hoping just adding a fan directly to the condenser will solve the problem though.

Sorry for not posting pictures, I really didn't plan on rearranging part of our house this weekend.
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:03 PM   #739
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Ya, pics are needed here. But some items to note:

- With the car sitting idle in the driveway you should be able to run AC etc. The engine fan and AC fan will kick in once temps go up (20min usually) and after that all systems should run at a normal temp. (temp should not rise)

^^ If temps continue to rise with fans turned on (and the fan is directly over the radiator) then this is not a radiator / fan placement. To my knowledge even if you have fan + AC rad + engine rad, you should still be fine.


But I'm pretty sure you knew this. But I am curious are temps going up just while sitting in the driveway?
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Old 07-23-2018, 02:29 PM   #740
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When A/C is on the fans are running while the compressor is. Regardless of temperatures, to maintain the temps on the R134a/R12. Mine is slowly building heat and not being able to cool any of it off. Eventually this would result in it blowing the relief valve. It begins to overheat the engine first though which, while not ideal isn't terrible in this situation.

I'm changing the setup from this:

XXXXXXXXX----Fan------
------Condenser---------
XXXXXXXXX-----Rad----
XXXXXXXXX----Fan-----

To this:

XXXXXXXXX----Fan------
------Condenser---------
---Fan---XX-----Rad----
XXXXXXXXX----Fan-----

I'm going to unplug the front pusher fan and reroute the plug back over to the drivers side. Then mount a fan directly onto the condenser and use it to pull air through it. This will hopefully allow the R134a to maintain temperatures, and allow the Civic half radiator to do it's job.
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