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Old 01-05-2016, 01:12 PM   #21
apalileo
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@excalibur02 - Thanks! I'm just doing my best to keep it up!

@khal.lawson - Much appreciated! Swapping the seals out obviously took care of any oil leaks from up top. My valves weren't far out of spec, so I only really noticed reduced "chatter" up top. In terms of performance, I'd say it "feels" smoother at idle.
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Old 01-05-2016, 01:25 PM   #22
apalileo
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January 2016 - Happy New Year folks! I went to Pick Your Part for their New Year's 40% off sale and decided to get the shift plate from a 92-96 Prelude since I only had the shift lever installed on my CB7 all this time.

Prelude shift lever in Accord base plate:


Complete assembly along with generic aluminum short shift adapter from my CD5 (I got rid of it with the Prelude lever in it!):




50mm Black delrin shift knob with 10x1.5mm threading and a generic PVC "leather" shift boot I ordered online:


I measured a line that would sit the boot frame flush with the center console, trimmed off the excess and rounded the edge:




Wrapped some 1/2" shrink wrap around the shift lever to cover up the exposed area:


*I know I have to replace my dash trim and re-wrap the speaker cover!

After driving on this set up for a few days, I ended up removing the short shift adapter. That short, notchy feel no longer appeals to me and I don't like the proportion of forward and backward motions to the lateral ones. I do like the shorter overall lever height due to the base plate swap and the 50mm shift knob is threaded nearly all the way through so it sits lower than the stock knob does as well.
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Old 01-07-2016, 02:26 PM   #23
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Wow I like what you did to the shifter plate for the boot. I will definitely consider that.
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Old 01-08-2016, 02:27 PM   #24
apalileo
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Glad you like it! I sure do! Something about the more flush look improves it in my eyes.

Tip: Reinstall the boot plate into the console after removing the boot. Works as a perfect stencil for tracing the cut line. That's how I got the red line so straight on mine!
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Old 01-08-2016, 03:12 PM   #25
whitejdmcb7
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nice build man
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Old 01-08-2016, 08:12 PM   #26
excalibur02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apalileo View Post
Glad you like it! I sure do! Something about the more flush look improves it in my eyes.

Tip: Reinstall the boot plate into the console after removing the boot. Works as a perfect stencil for tracing the cut line. That's how I got the red line so straight on mine!

Sounds easy! Once I get a new boot I will be doing the boot plate trim.

Thanks
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Old 01-09-2016, 01:44 PM   #27
apalileo
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@whitejdmcb7 - Thank you kindly!

@excalibur02 - Good luck with it! Also note that the boot plate is quite sturdy. I used my Dremel to trim it and broke two cutting wheels turning the corners and wore a third one down significantly! I just had the standard brown ones, so maybe some black reinforced ones would serve better.
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Old 01-09-2016, 02:43 PM   #28
Shadow1
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Looking good man!!
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Old 01-10-2016, 07:42 PM   #29
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Looks good man.. keep up the good work!
I got love for the BBB!
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:33 PM   #30
apalileo
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Thanks Shadow1 and jchsmiley! Just showing my CB the love it deserves... it's coming along bit by bit!
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Old 01-15-2016, 03:43 PM   #31
apalileo
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January 2016 - Nardi Personal Blitz 330mm steering wheel and Nardi Personal hub!









Preparation included making a new harness for the horn along with the SRS bypass. I used a clock spring harness from the yard.




2.2 ohm 1/2W resistor from Fry's for the bypass (they didn't have 1/4W in small quantities):


Resistor bridging pins 1 and 3 for the SRS and a length of wire for the horn:


Ready! If I had gotten a 1/4W or even a 1/8W resistor, I would have had it tucked into the plug, but the 1/2W was just too wide.


This 5/8" ID washer serves two purposes: 1) it will ground the horn and 2) it pushes the hub back 1/8", allowing it to engage the turn signal cancel switch. Also, the hub was just shy of being tall enough for the splines so the nut would lock but the hub was still loose.


I found these blade fuse taps to create the positive contact for the contact ring on the back of the hub:


Measured and trimmed the lead from the clock spring harness to the horn contact. Used the original clock spring screw hole to mount it:


I also revisited the Prelude shift lever. Pulled the first one out of the Accord base plate and brought it to a machine shop. Turns out my delrin shift knob isn't threading all the way down because of the step where the threading ends. I had the shop cut the lever about 1/2" beneath the original taper and they pressed in a new solid steel threaded shaft.



OEM vs. modified OEM (both have been shrink wrapped):


Finished!


SRS light turns off after the initial check, horn works and steering wheel is solid and straight! The shift lever is only about 1/4" shorter overall, but because the shift knob can thread all the way down onto it, the knob sits about 1/2-3/4" lower. The nice thing is that the weight of the solid steel add on gives the shift a great feel! The shortened overall height gives a nice proportional shortening to the knob travel!
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Old 01-16-2016, 07:18 AM   #32
excalibur02
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Installation of the wheel is very clean! Looks really good. Subtle upgrades like the shifter makes the car look and feel better.
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Old 02-05-2016, 04:33 PM   #33
apalileo
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February 2016 - After passing my smog check in December I had been losing prime in the fuel system over night, especially when my car was parked facing uphill. There was also the faint smell of gasoline in the first few minutes of driving in the morning. I guess the fuel line got damaged when they conducted the evap test (which it passed).

I contacted my local Honda dealer and they informed me that the fuel line is discontinued. The parts staff even told me to go to a junk yard. I was thinking of building a custom AN line with Techna Fit parts and I ran across a Russell fuel line for the 96-00 Civic that looked like it would fit. Overkill? Yes, but it was necessary for proper function.

Russell part number 641110:


Versus the old OEM line:


Mounted on new fuel filter:


Clears the EGR just like the OEM one:


Routes exactly the same as OEM:


It's a bit snug beneath the vacuum box because it doesn't have the slight down turn on the fuel filter side banjo fitting, but everything mounts up fine.


I wish it wasn't all anodized blue and red, but it fits and that's what matters. I probably will build a custom line before my next smog test that includes a flow valve so the station doesn't risk damaging anything during the evap test again.
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Old 02-05-2016, 05:42 PM   #34
cb9love
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Now that's a bit of bling i can get behind!
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:51 PM   #35
apalileo
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@cb9love - I guess that makes two of us! It sticks out like a sore thumb to me, but better that than hard starts due to low fuel pressure!

I just got home from a drive and I'm wishing I had changed out the fuel filter when I first got the car! Feels like I relieved a lot of obstruction in the fuel delivery. Looking at the old unit, I have reason to believe it was the original one! There wasn't a single marking on the banjo bolt nor the flare nut going into the filter. That is until I had to unbolt them.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:51 AM   #36
Mike1357
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The time you took on doing the steering wheel the right way is fantastic. I also love the fuel line. If my line going to the filter hadn't snapped i probably would've used the same thing. Try looking online and see if they make the fittings in black; I recently made a bunch of lines for a customer with all black fittings.
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Old 02-06-2016, 04:39 PM   #37
apalileo
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Thanks Mike! I intend on keeping the CB for a long time so I want to do everything right. The forums have been invaluable in that aspect.

I do plan on putting together a replacement fuel line with black or silver parts that includes a flow control valve (for the evap test during smog tests so they don't have to pinch the line). The Russell line was simply a convenience since it was pre-fitted. It's also a good option since the OEM part is discontinued.
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:15 PM   #38
excalibur02
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fuel line looks good!

The same thing actually happened to me. Fuel line bent so had to get a junkyard replacement. This was a couple years back. When you do change it up you can always sell that one on here to another member.
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:55 PM   #39
apalileo
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Thanks excalibur! I'll keep that in mind when that times comes!

Just a side note on the steering wheel install: That 5/8" washer forced the hub further down that it was intended to be mounted (most likely intended for non SRS Honda's). The splines of the steering wheel shaft "cut" the splines of the soft metal hub deeper. After first fitment, I was forced to use my large gear puller to remove it. It's really on there, but it's definitely solid.
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Old 02-07-2016, 10:04 PM   #40
Darkcloud
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Good work so far, like how simple you're keeping the cb.

What's next on your list?
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