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Old 03-14-2014, 11:13 PM   #41
fleetw00d
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The screws are under the rubber lip on the bottom/back of the trim. It lifts easier if you warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:56 PM   #42
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Heyyyyy, I'm actually glad someone woke this thread up. I'm having the same issue with my sedan AND coupe. So there is a screw that holds the rear window trim down? Could you provide a picture of the location. I'm not seeing it on my Honda service manual
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:22 AM   #43
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There are eight clips, four on each side under the trim. The clips mount to the underside of the trim. When installing the trim on the body, the screws are backed out, this allows the barbs on the clips to fit into the square holes in the body. When the screws are tightened, it pulls the clip and trim down tight to the body. Each clip has a "gasket" on the face that contacts the body to prevent leakage. I don't have a picture available, but I know I've seen one on here - I'll see if I can find it.

May 13, 2017: The SE coupe was leaking from the clip gaskets; got some photos while fixing it:

Clip removed after backing the screw out and pushing it down:


Clip with the screw screwed in to show the barbs exposed; these grab the underside of the sheet metal:


Gasket made from closed cell foam:

Last edited by fleetw00d; 02-13-2018 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:39 PM   #44
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I've posted this in 2 other threads, but i feel its beneficial:

Also, instead of buying Honda OEM tail light gaskets, I went to Michaels (craft store) and bought sheets of 6mm thick foam. Hopefully that'll be my fix instead of the window channel plugs, I'll probably do those too, now that I know about it.

But anyways, each sheet is .99 cents and covers 1 tail light 9x12", so you'll need 4 sheets. The material is a little thicker than preferred, 5mm thick is ideal, but does the job.

You just have to be careful and pre-crush the foam along the tail light prior to installation otherwise you'll snap those delicate 8mm bolts which should be tightened with your hand.

You don't even want to use a wrench to tighten those either, given the age of the tailights in most cases are at least 21 yrs old if original and not replaced. I either took a 1/4" 8mm deep socket or a 3/8's 8mm with a 2 inch extension and tightened them all by hand and no more. You will snap them off if you use a wrench, so go easy. I just did mine last night in my 92 LX 4dr and i snapped 2 off using the 1/4" wrench when tightening, but luckily i had water proof/rubberized super glue (loctite) that helped seal them back to the housing and worked.

Total cost was about 8 bucks including the 4 sheets of foam and an Xacto knife i bought to cut them to match the old ones. Oh yeah, use an IKEA cutting board (.99 cents), those can take a beating without damaging your table.

http://www.michaels.com/M10390268.ht...sheet&start=10
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Old 12-20-2014, 08:27 AM   #45
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Very good tip. Thanks for posting that info.
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