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Old 01-20-2005, 10:48 AM   #1
BustedLX
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SUSP : Rear 5-Lug Conversion

Alright, here you have a quick how-to of how to convert your CB7's rear to 5-Lug. F22A (Sean) will be doing the DIY for the front, since he took allot of pictures of the front and I took allot of the back. This is really easy to do, it just seems more difficult then it really is. I hope this helps everyone out.

This is assuming you are doing the swap to a 92/93 EX (93 SE) with OE ABS and rear disc brakes. If you do not have rear disc brakes you will first need to convert your rear drums to rear discs. For those of you who CONVERT from drums to discs the ABS parts of this DIY do not apply.

Parts you need:
- 97-01 Honda Prelude rear hub and bearing assembly x2
Part number: 42200-S30-C51
List Price: $140.92 each
Should pay: $110.00 +/- each
- 97-01 Acura Integra Type-R rear rotors x2
Part Number: 42510-ST7-R00
List Price: $94.95 each
Should pay: $80.00 +/- each
- 97-01 Prelude rear Axle Nut x2
Part Number: 90305-S30-003
List Price: $8.20 each
Should pay: $6.50 +/- each

I bought the hub and bearings from a junkyard before I realized exactly what I really needed from the Prelude and how much those parts cost new. For the rear of the swap I strongly suggest buying new OE hub/bearings. As for the rotors buy whatever you can, OE, Brembo, etc. I chose to go with cheap chinese made rotors, They cost me $22.00 a peice with my discount and do just as good a job as the others.

Total I spent for the rear swap: $244.00 even
- $100 x2 for junkyard Prelude rear suspension (mistake, should have bought new).
- $22.00 x2 for 97-01 ITR rotors.

I already had very new brake pads from when I just recently did my brakes so I resued them.

Lets get started.

Step 1: Jack the car up and secure it on jack stands:


Step 2: Take off wheel (Duuuhhhh):


Step 3: Remove bracket securing brake line (two 12mm head bolts), remove caliper (two 12mm head bolts), and remove caliper bracket (two 14mm head bolts). *Not Pictured.

Step 4: Remove dust cap exposing 32mm nut and remove 32mm nut:


*Note: Notice the little balls in the bearing assembly? That means the bearings race has stayed behind on the shaft. This is normal for older cars.


Step 5: Remove the bearings race from the shaft, To do this spray behind the race and between the race and shaft with PB Blaster, allow it to soak, then using a pry bar or large flat head screw driver, pry the race out of the shaft from behind. Meaning wedge the pry bar between the race and dust shield. DO NOT SCORE or MARK UP SHAFT!


*Note: Here's the race out:


*Note: Here's what the shaft should look like:


*Note: Complete rear 97-01 Prelude suspension:


Step 6: Remove two phillips screws holding prelude rotor to hub, remove dust cap exposing 32mm axle nut, and remove axle nut.


*Note: The Prelude's bearing should NOT leave the race behind, If it does, discard this bearing, it's junk and will whine and hum if you try to re-use it, This is why I say go new, it's worth it. I got lucky.

*Note: Notice the difference between the Preludes Spindle nut and the Accords Nut/Washer combination. You want to use the Prelude's nut as it has more thread to grab the shaft.


Next Post!

Last edited by owequitit; 10-10-2015 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 01-20-2005, 10:49 AM   #2
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*Note: Notice the difference in size of the Excitor rings on the hub assemblies. This will require you to move the ABS sensor. We will cover this soon.


*Note: Notice the difference between the Prelude rotor's hat hieght and the ITR rotor's hat hieght. This is the reason you MUST use the ITR's rotor. You CAN NOT use the Prelude's rotor like some other DIY's state. I found this out the hard way.


*Note: Ok here is my idea for the ABS sensor relocation. Basically you will remove the sensor factory bolts, replace them with longer ones, and shim the sensor out to the correct new position. In the picture I used standard M10 nuts as shims but this proved to move the sensor to far away. I later corrected the problem but didin't take updated pictures.

To properly shim the sensor I used three zinc 5/16" washers per bolt. Meaning 12 in total (3x4). This put the sensor at just the right distance.


Step 6: Remove the ABS Sensor:
Remove the sensor's two 12mm bolts, pull the sensor out the back of the dust shield (Do not twist and turn the sensor, the wire must remain as uncoilded as possible!).


Step 7: Shim the ABS Sensor:
Now that the sensor is out, slide your two longer bolts threw and slap your three washers per bolt on. Getting the sensor back up threw the dust sheild and into position can be a real bitch, just be patient and don't lose your cool. I had to do it several times to get the correct measurement, you only have to do it once, be happy!


*Note: Remember you need to use washers to get the correct hieght, not nuts like in the picture, I just didn't take new pictures of the correction.

*Note: Clean the ABS sensor off real good with Brake parts cleaner and a rag. If the sensor is just alittle dirty it'll throw the ABS system into "fail-safe" and turn on the light.

Step 8: Tighten the sensor back up:


*Note: This is the general idea allthough your sensor should be allot closer, remember these pictures are before the correction!


Step 9: Install the Prelude hub and axle nut. notice that the axle nut will not go all the way down, this is ok. Just torque the nuts to spec. You will still be able to stake the nut so it doesn't walk off.


Step 10: Get your baby sledge and Center punch ready to stake the nut.


Step 11: Hit the nut at the very edge where the nut body ends and the nuts lip begins, Hit it HARD!.


*Another view, see it's staked.


Alright time to reasemble!!!

Step 12: Put your ITR rotor on there and secure it with the two phillips head screws.


Step 13: Reinstall the caliper bracket, caliper, and brake line bracket.


Step 14: Slap on your new(er) 5-lug wheels, jack up the car, remove jack stand, lower car, put away your tools, and don't forget to feel good about yourself.


Well that's it, your 5-lug should now be done. If you think this was easy the front is even easier!. The front can be more time consuming so keep your eyes out for F22A's (Sean) DIY so you know what you are getting into. I didn't take any pix of the front since I've taken apart the front of Honda's so many times it's self expanitory to me. Don't worry though. The front is no big deal.

For those intrested the total I spent on my conversion is $661.61. Price break down is as fallows:
- $200 for Prelude rear suspension.
- $150 for Odyssey front suspension. Edit: My front brake calipers are from a 1995 Acura Legend LS Sedan (Single Piston, 23T Bracket).
- $44 for ITR rear rotors.
- $52.61 for Misc. nuts and bolts from Honda that where either messed up of not there that I needed for the swap and for OE brake pads.
- $15.00 for Misc. parts from Advance Auto Parts (replacement studs and brake fluid).
- $200 for Bronze painted RSX stocks from a friend of mine. I'm just riding on them for now, but they look alright.

- Total: $661.61

" Doing the howto's for the haters that are keeping secrets, Bitches!"

Last edited by BustedLX; 01-20-2005 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 01-20-2005, 10:58 AM   #3
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working pics would be nice.. lol

edit.. if those are rsx or tsx rims.. there goes my idea of being original..
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Last edited by WiKKeDV16; 01-20-2005 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiKKeDV16
working pics would be nice.. lol
Maybe you need to wind up your computer?
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:03 AM   #5
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lol.. first time all i saw was red X's... after i posted.. THEN they desided to show.. bastards..
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:08 AM   #6
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thanks busted this will deffinatly help if not im going 2 florida in the summer ill hunt u down so u can help lol good stuff though thanks
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:13 AM   #7
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nice write up man
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:44 AM   #8
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very nice. mad props! notice any difference in the feel of your car? better braking even? heh. now all we need is a front 5 lug conversion.
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:55 AM   #9
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u should sell me your old setup =) haha
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:19 PM   #10
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SUPERB write-up!

btw, i thought you were planning on throwing on some GM ITR's?
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:48 PM   #11
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Nicee. You guys do a great job on the DIY's and sharing info. Great web community. I only say this because last year while I was living in Orlando I saw a guy who has a 4th gen with 5 lug conversion and Acura CL type-S rims and that bastard wouldn't spill a single bean of how he did it. Jerk off.
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:51 PM   #12
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welcome 2 the real cb7 family Mr.Thienn busted it would look sweet wit some gm r rims all in time i guess
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:57 PM   #13
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awesome job jose, looks great.
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Old 01-20-2005, 01:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmike
awesome job jose, looks great.
i would expect nothing less!

for those with dx's and lx's (canadian lx's and ex's), i would expect that steps 6 through 8 (abs removal, shimming, and tightening) are unnecessary, as these cars are without abs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michalob
very nice. mad props! notice any difference in the feel of your car? better braking even?
bustedlx had an aem bbk in the front and rear discs in the rear prior to this... i would expect his braking to be roughly the same. busted, please correct me if i'm wrong.

f22a has an lx, and thus no rear discs, therefore this 5 lug swap gave him rear discs. his braking subjectively improved. i say subjectively, because there was no objective test (i.e. 60-0 times prior to swap and after swap).
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Old 01-20-2005, 01:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michalob
very nice. mad props! notice any difference in the feel of your car? better braking even? heh. now all we need is a front 5 lug conversion.
Well that depends on what you consider by better. I had the AEM BBK on the fronts before and until they where gone I really didn't notice the improvement it made. It definately reduces brake fade and gives a stiffer more responsive pedal. However I am very pleased with the car now. The car feels more luxurious with this setup and still is an excellent improvement over the OE Accords brakes. The car generally feels smooth, I'm very happy with it. Plus I'm not looking to make this car an all out racing machine. It's my daily driver that I drive my kids around in. It's excellent at it's job and still manages to hand out ass whippings here and there. My project car is another story .

Quote:
Originally Posted by accordztech
u should sell me your old setup =) haha
Accord_inspire bought the AEM BBK and it looks like he's very intrested in buying the wheels. The Power slot rear rotors still have no new home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by k-mart
btw, i thought you were planning on throwing on some GM ITR's?
Well I want two sets of wheels. My everyday wheels and my autox/race night wheels. For now these RSX wheels will serve the everyday wheels. They're actually excellent for everyday, they are very strong so I don't have to worry about pot holes as much and these Michelin tires are excellent touring tires. They suck serious cock for traction like drag racing and autox but they provide an extremly comfortable ride.

My goal in for everyday rims are the new DC5 ITR's (if any of you steal my idea atleast give my ass credit) which if all goes well I'll get soon in a deal I'm working out.

For my race wheels I'd like some 15" CTR/ITR's and then I'll throw some pricey tires on there.

But for $200 with decent tires I couldn't pass these up.... Now I only need a 5-lug spare, lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Thienn
Nicee. You guys do a great job on the DIY's and sharing info. Great web community. I only say this because last year while I was living in Orlando I saw a guy who has a 4th gen with 5 lug conversion and Acura CL type-S rims and that bastard wouldn't spill a single bean of how he did it. Jerk off.
Well the way I see it is this... I'm going to provide you with all the information I possibly can, here on the internet, for free. Now if you still can't do it on your own because of either ability, lack of tools, or etc. Then I would like me and my shop to have the opportunity to preform the work at a competitive price of course. This naturally applies to local people but it's still the way I see it.
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:18 PM   #16
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Yeahh I get what you're saying and it's much appreciated. But some people like that dude are just weird with info you know. It's like they don't want anyone trying to copy them and I somewhat understand that. He was just an ass and wouldn't give me a leg up on anything. I didn't ask him how but I just gave him props and asked him what main parts did he use and he just straight up replied that he wouldn't tell me. I do some custom body work and when people ask me I straight up tell them. After that it's really up to them if they have the power and skill to perform what I've told them and like you said if need be then I'll provide my services for a fee. Simple as that. Oh yeah BTW did you end up using the Odyssey front brake caliper or did you use Prelude VTEC front calipers like f22a?
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Thienn
Oh yeah BTW did you end up using the Odyssey front brake caliper or did you use Prelude VTEC front calipers like f22a?
I used the 2nd Gen Acura Legend Type I Calipers. They are single piston calipers with the 23T bracket. They can be found on 1991-1995 Legend Sedans (Every trim except the 94-95 GS) and on all 1991-1992 Legend Coupes.
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:39 PM   #18
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Looks great! I'd love to see some 16" Legend GS wheels on there. That would be stunning!
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:23 PM   #19
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so hot i think im next lol
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Old 02-03-2005, 01:52 AM   #20
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sweet...whats an ITR rotor???
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