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Old 09-13-2019, 01:31 PM   #21
Rilas
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Anthony those lines are in horrible condition. Glad you got them swapped out before one finally failed and you rear ended someone. Also, the frame has a ton of rust on it. Is most of that just superficial or is it actually starting to eat into the frame?
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Old 09-13-2019, 01:41 PM   #22
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The lines were shot to sh!t. One did fail right in front of my house. They all got replaced. The only rust really found on this truck is the frame (and a little under the bed, not much at all). It's mostly surface rust which will be sanded off eventually. Right now, I'm too busy not working, so nothing's really getting done. I've been thinking about taking the cab, bed, and front off when I swap my motor in. I'm moreso in the planning stage if anything.

I also have a ton of brand new steering and suspension parts in the basement awaiting surgery. Who knows when that'll happen. I'm still a little sore from the accident, and the chiroprator made it worse by attempting an adjustment.

I have plans for the rear, engine, transmission, suspension, wheels, brakes, and interior. That's about it.
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Last edited by Straight Success; 09-13-2019 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:00 AM   #23
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Is this some type of challenge?

If so, I'm all for it, but I have a long ways to go. Most of my money has been going into my business, so recreation has been put on hold. That's until the big check I'm waiting for arrives.
No worries. My car isn't going to be fast until I understand why it is slow. That means a ton of reading, learning, experimenting and failing.
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Old 09-29-2019, 01:35 PM   #24
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I've been thinking about everything I have planned, so I've been preparing a spec sheet. This thing is going to be awesome.

Something similar to this, but differnt with my own twists.

https://external-preview.redd.it/oV9...=webp&05af314b
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Old 09-29-2019, 03:39 PM   #25
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I rode around a lot in HS in a very similar S10. I've always liked them. Staying tuned! LS swap would be awesome.
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Old 11-23-2019, 06:25 PM   #26
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New engine is delayed. Now I will be buying two V8s in the future. Oh, geezzzzz!

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Old 12-08-2019, 12:44 PM   #27
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I'm wrestling with how far I will go with my 6.0L build. Do I want to completely disassemble it and do a full fresh rebuild, or do I just go in and clean it up with new gaskets and wear parts?

It'll be about a $1,500 - $2,000 difference. Hmmm!
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Old 12-09-2019, 10:13 AM   #28
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Honestly, it depends on if you will regret NOT doing the full rebuild. I'm sure it'll be fine if you don't, but if it's one of those things that longer in the back of your mind...you know what to do.
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Old 12-09-2019, 10:30 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Straight Success View Post
I'm wrestling with how far I will go with my 6.0L build. Do I want to completely disassemble it and do a full fresh rebuild, or do I just go in and clean it up with new gaskets and wear parts?

It'll be about a $1,500 - $2,000 difference. Hmmm!
weak points on LS engines is the lifters which fail and eat at the cam, crank and rod bearings tend to be good unless boost is applied. Things i would look at;
1. cam
2. new lifters
3. factory GM gaskets
4. pump pickup tube seal
5. chain tensioner depending on year
6. Rear main seal; its easier to do with engine already off

Usually people install at the very least a small cam when inspecting cam lobes since the work is literally the same; Summit makes affordable low-mid range cams that work with LS6 springs or Cam motion makes NSR cams that work with factory springs(depending on mileage i would switch either way) but needs a converter due to duration. GM LS7 Lifters can normally be had for under $130 on ebay or other sellers but supply is low right now due to strike. Head, crank and cam retainer bolts on LS engines are torque to yield so you will need to replace all of those as well. Valve spring choices depend on cam size; a smaller cam under .570 you can use the LS6 springs which are proven and cheap, anything bigger than that you can use PAC Beehive or double springs which some people like for the secondary spring which some claim keeps your valve from dropping if a failure occurs. LS heads and intakes will provide enough air for the power levels you had mentioned before in their factory form but the intake is not the most appealing unless you get the plastic covers that most cars use. Then there is the oil pump, to replace the pump you will need a priming machine either bought or self made to circulate the oil before the first start to avoid dry start, most a folk use a SBC oil pump inside a bucket filled with oil to drive oil into the new motor using a catch can under the pan to get the oil out of the engine. Cam swaps on LS engines DO NOT require a break in like engines before, BUT springs made to handle hog cams will need heating and cooling intervals before being driven.
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Old 12-09-2019, 12:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
Honestly, it depends on if you will regret NOT doing the full rebuild. I'm sure it'll be fine if you don't, but if it's one of those things that longer in the back of your mind...you know what to do.
It'll probably come down to the condition of the engine I buy including mileage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crankshaft View Post
weak points on LS engines is the lifters which fail and eat at the cam, crank and rod bearings tend to be good unless boost is applied. Things i would look at;
1. cam
2. new lifters
3. factory GM gaskets
4. pump pickup tube seal
5. chain tensioner depending on year
6. Rear main seal; its easier to do with engine already off

Usually people install at the very least a small cam when inspecting cam lobes since the work is literally the same; Summit makes affordable low-mid range cams that work with LS6 springs or Cam motion makes NSR cams that work with factory springs(depending on mileage i would switch either way) but needs a converter due to duration. GM LS7 Lifters can normally be had for under $130 on ebay or other sellers but supply is low right now due to strike. Head, crank and cam retainer bolts on LS engines are torque to yield so you will need to replace all of those as well. Valve spring choices depend on cam size; a smaller cam under .570 you can use the LS6 springs which are proven and cheap, anything bigger than that you can use PAC Beehive or double springs which some people like for the secondary spring which some claim keeps your valve from dropping if a failure occurs. LS heads and intakes will provide enough air for the power levels you had mentioned before in their factory form but the intake is not the most appealing unless you get the plastic covers that most cars use. Then there is the oil pump, to replace the pump you will need a priming machine either bought or self made to circulate the oil before the first start to avoid dry start, most a folk use a SBC oil pump inside a bucket filled with oil to drive oil into the new motor using a catch can under the pan to get the oil out of the engine. Cam swaps on LS engines DO NOT require a break in like engines before, BUT springs made to handle hog cams will need heating and cooling intervals before being driven.
Thanks for the information.

This is going into my "work truck" which my son may occasional drive if he decides to get his license. Hence, I'm probably not looking to go all out on it. Remember, I initally bought it for him, but sometimes things change. A LQ9 is already rated at 325+ in both HP and TQ numbers. Time to play the patience game.
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