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F22A1 TO F22A6 IM swap

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    F22A1 TO F22A6 IM swap

    So, my son in law got an H22A1 IM to swap on his 93 accord and is gonna give me his F22A6 IM and TB. I'm currently stock F22A1. I know I can swap his IM and runners on mine, but is it honestly gonna give me a little bit of gains? Also, other than getting PT6 ecu is there anything else I should worry about?

    #2
    Originally posted by daddyruiz View Post
    So, my son in law got an H22A1 IM to swap on his 93 accord and is gonna give me his F22A6 IM and TB. I'm currently stock F22A1. I know I can swap his IM and runners on mine, but is it honestly gonna give me a little bit of gains? Also, other than getting PT6 ecu is there anything else I should worry about?
    Just the intake manifold won't do you much good without an A6 cam and wiring up the IAB (butterfly plates) for the PT6 ECU to operate. The A6 (or A4) exhaust manifold is part of the package as well; it goes from four tubes at the head, to two at the flex pipe, to one at the catalytic converter vs. the A1 which goes from 4 at the head to one at the flex pipe. Along with the cam, the A6 engine had different valve springs than the A1.
    Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-07-2017, 06:12 PM.
    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
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      #3
      Thanks for the reply. I already have the exhaust manifold. Guess I'll be doing this swap and get an A6 cam to try it out. Figure it's all free so might as well. Question though. If I were to jus removed the flaps on the IAB vs wiring it up is there a difference, what would be the pros and cons in doing so?

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        #4
        You could, but the performance of an otherwise stock F22A would render you without much of a bottom end in terms of power production.

        Also, instead of purchasing an F22A6 camshaft, you could go with a regrind from Delta Camshaft. They have three different off-the-shelf profiles for the F22A engine. The "260" offering would be a decent upgrade over factory without much of a difference in driveability. The 272 would be a little more peppy with a slightly more noticeable lope at idle. The benefit to that camshaft would be usable power in the higher rpm range.

        These are not recommendations so much as they are just options to consider if you're wanting to upgrade the camshaft anyway. A spare F22A head can be found for around $100 which would include the OEM camshaft. The cam can be used as the core to send to Delta, while the head itself can be resurfaced and rebuilt with better valve springs. At that point it's ready to bolt on over the course of a Saturday!
        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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          #5
          Is your son in law aware that the H22A1 intake manifold will not fit on an F22A head?


          As for the A6 manifold, removing the IAB "butterflies" will result in a loss of bottom-end power. The whole point of the IAB system is to allow high velocity airflow at lower RPM via the primary intake path only. Then, at higher RPM, the butterflies open and allow a secondary path, resulting in greater airflow where velocity can remain high. The result is a wider powerband, with usable power down low and up high. In a way, it's like a simplified version of VTEC (which does a similar thing with the valves.)
          Hook the IAB system up properly if you want to see any noticeable improvement.






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            #6
            Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
            You could, but the performance of an otherwise stock F22A would render you without much of a bottom end in terms of power production.

            Also, instead of purchasing an F22A6 camshaft, you could go with a regrind from Delta Camshaft. They have three different off-the-shelf profiles for the F22A engine. The "260" offering would be a decent upgrade over factory without much of a difference in driveability. The 272 would be a little more peppy with a slightly more noticeable lope at idle. The benefit to that camshaft would be usable power in the higher rpm range.

            These are not recommendations so much as they are just options to consider if you're wanting to upgrade the camshaft anyway. A spare F22A head can be found for around $100 which would include the OEM camshaft. The cam can be used as the core to send to Delta, while the head itself can be resurfaced and rebuilt with better valve springs. At that point it's ready to bolt on over the course of a Saturday!
            So putting in a 272 re-ground cam would require replacing valve springs, and getting the head resurfaced? Would you need a tune at that point?
            I want some lopey idle!!

            How much will getting a cam ground cost?

            Sorry, I'm kind of thread-jacking
            I'm faster then a prius

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              #7
              Yes, you should certainly get it tuned. You could go with a budget-minded setup that involved a chipped P06 and Crome. That would run you around $150 if you bought an ECU already prepared. The software itself is free. You'd have to pay someone to tune it if you're not capable yourself. Expect to pay someone $200 for something halfway decent.

              The camshaft regrind will cost right around $100. Expect to spend another $30 shipping it there and back.

              The valve springs can be found for Around $150, if you can trust what Bisi sells. the adjustable cam gear is another $80-100.

              So, to do this right, you're looking to spend around $750. It's not great, but it's not horrible, either. At face value, it looks like it is nearly what an H22A swap would cost. But then when you consider that the H22A swap would also benefit from a chipped and tuned ECU, you should remove that $350 from the comparison. Then you have a roughly $400 upgrade.

              This is also the perfect time for my plug for the JDM F23A bottom end I seem to squeeze into every suggestion. The one knock against using this bottom end as an upgrade is the slight bump in compression and the increased displacement not being accounted for by the stock PT3/PT6 ECUs. However, if you were to require an ECU/tuning upgrade anyway, then a JDM F23A would be a quick way to get a low-mileage bottom end with added displacement and slightly more compression to help out that camshaft in the higher rpms! Importers around here sell them for $250-350 each.
              My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                Yes, you should certainly get it tuned. You could go with a budget-minded setup that involved a chipped P06 and Crome. That would run you around $150 if you bought an ECU already prepared. The software itself is free. You'd have to pay someone to tune it if you're not capable yourself. Expect to pay someone $200 for something halfway decent.

                The camshaft regrind will cost right around $100. Expect to spend another $30 shipping it there and back.

                The valve springs can be found for Around $150, if you can trust what Bisi sells. the adjustable cam gear is another $80-100.

                So, to do this right, you're looking to spend around $750. It's not great, but it's not horrible, either. At face value, it looks like it is nearly what an H22A swap would cost. But then when you consider that the H22A swap would also benefit from a chipped and tuned ECU, you should remove that $350 from the comparison. Then you have a roughly $400 upgrade.

                This is also the perfect time for my plug for the JDM F23A bottom end I seem to squeeze into every suggestion. The one knock against using this bottom end as an upgrade is the slight bump in compression and the increased displacement not being accounted for by the stock PT3/PT6 ECUs. However, if you were to require an ECU/tuning upgrade anyway, then a JDM F23A would be a quick way to get a low-mileage bottom end with added displacement and slightly more compression to help out that camshaft in the higher rpms! Importers around here sell them for $250-350 each.
                Ehhhh. I would rather just put the money towards a turbo set up
                I'm faster then a prius

                Comment


                  #9
                  But there are reliability concerns that come.with something like that. Also, owning a turbocharged vehicle and knowing how to maintain one is much different than owning a N/A car.

                  To do one reliably and with quality parts, expect to spend around $3,000. That includes forged pistons and the minimal costs associated with machining the block for them, as well.
                  My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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