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Old 10-04-2012, 01:41 PM   #41
Joey GT-R
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While I admit I am too a noob to fuel delivery, I've picked up a little bit along the way. You don't need too much with this build. A fuel rail isn't necessary, the stock flows fine. I believe LoDollar as well as NWaccord are both using the stock rails for their 500whp+ turbo monsters. The AEM & BDL fuel rails do have existing ports for nitrous though if you ever consider going down that road. Otherwise, it's more of a "bling piece". As far as injectors, I wouldn't go above 600cc, and that supports roughly 400whp. A chart that I sometimes use for reference is this one by Precision. As for the fuel pump, a simple Walbro 255lph should be all you need. These components should ensure your engine isn't starving for fuel at high rpm.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #42
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Great, thanks for that link. I took a quick look around Honda-Tech and I'm surprised I did't see anything with the rest of the Prelude/H22 info. Going with Precision injectors (if I do, I know they've got a great reputation), it looks like 440cc's should be enough, but 525's would be a nice, safe choice I think.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:44 PM   #43
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http://mysite.verizon.net/vzezeqah/s...uelsystems.pdf

Your welcome.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:41 AM   #44
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And I do thank you very much indeed, I like how it relates the info to engine builds.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:30 PM   #45
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As far as I know, all USDM H22As were open deck. Only the JDMs came in a closed deck variant.
You were correct in this. The bulk of the teardown was done today. I was annoyed to discover I had to take apart all the cam parts to get to the head bolts, relieved when none of them were seized, and then ecstatic to find a closed deck under the gasket .









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Old 10-18-2012, 11:14 AM   #46
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You were correct in this. The bulk of the teardown was done today. I was annoyed to discover I had to take apart all the cam parts to get to the head bolts, relieved when none of them were seized, and then ecstatic to find a closed deck under the gasket .
Score one for me!!!!

Who's doing your boring? I've been pondering who I was going to send my spare block off to for some time now. My "last resort" is Bisimoto or Collective. Also I saw you added Crower Cams to the mix, which part number? I may have some lying around you might be interested in.....
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:04 PM   #47
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What engine stand are you using? Complaints?

I need a new one, well an additional one.
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:54 PM   #48
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I haven't looked into boring yet, as I won't be able to afford it for a while anyway. Especially now that I'm looking for my own place, things will be moving very slowly indeed. Local PFI Speed has a TON of Honda experience, so I've still got to pay them a visit (my Spoon header's got a leak I need patched up anyway, and their welder kicks ass, perfect excuse to go) and see if they can work with FRM. These are the cams I'm looking at. The part number on that site is BC0032.

My engine stand is the 1000lb one from Harbor Freight. There was a lighter-load model available, but safer is always better. When I first stuck the engine on it seemed way flimsy. But now that I've messed around with the engine on there a bit, moved it around the garage a few times, it feels sturdy enough. I just wish it had an under tray like the ones at my school did. Would have been really convenient.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:34 AM   #49
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More teardown. Nearly done.

QUESTION 2: Is the oil pump and/or housing something you guys would recommend replacing, just as often you would a water pump?

QUESTION 3: I know new piston rings should never mix with old cylinder walls. But does that automatically mean stock-sized pistons are out of the question and I have to go with Mahle's .25mm overbore? Is this something my machine shop should tell me with an inspection? All I know is my walls look and feel smooth as glass as they are.

The crank pulley bolt was giving me a hard time, but with some heat and a bigger breaker bar I finally got it out. I took almost thirty photos while taking apart all the timing and balance gear to help me later.









All that's left is some cooling and oil parts on the outside of the block, oil squirters for the pistons, and that other balance shaft.

I gotta say, despite being my first time tearing into an engine that has to run again (dismantled and rebuit a Buick V8 and a 4L60E auto tranny in school, but didn't get to run them), I'm feeling pretty confident for when the time comes to put it back together. This thing's going to be factory fresh, and hopefully just as reliable.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:30 AM   #50
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Ah I remember doing that to both a h22 and my current f20b.

To answer your 1uestions, yes a rehone would be necessary, also you cylinder walls are in need I can tell in the pic. But the machine shop will need your piston(s) to make sure its within spec

You can relpace the oilpump or have it modified. that is if you know the mileage. but you can always check the wear of the gear in the pump with a feeler gauge to see if it needs to be replaced
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:00 PM   #51
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Most of that's just oil. There is some slight scoring, but most of that's oil and coolant from me rolling the engine over so much. Things leaked out everywhere. Mileage on the engine's about 55k.

Took the last few bits off the block today. Except for three coolant plugs, this thing's DONE. Just have the head to do still.




All labeled with detail.
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:20 AM   #52
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Are $10,000 engine builds fairly typical? Because that's what this looks like it's turning into with my current parts list. I won't go into specific items because they can easily change before making a purchase, but here's what I've got racked up:

Intake manifold, throttle body, cams, springs/retainers, valve guides, valve seals, cam gears, head studs, injectors, fuel pump, Hondata, 6 gauges (two of which are expensive AEM dials), fuel pressure regulator, main studs, pistons, rods, bearings, aluminum radiator, silicone hoses, rad fans, header, flex pipe, cat, resonator, Kteller piping, muffler, stainless flanges/gaskets/hardware for the exhaust system, and a RyWire harness.

I'll most likely do all of the engine assembly myself but exhaust welding (unless I learn by then), head and block machine work, and of course the tune will all be out-sourced.

This is going to take forever and a half.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:55 PM   #53
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Good luck! sounds exciting
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:05 PM   #54
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Are you resleeving? Thats the best way to go. The economy darton dry sleeves are fine. Thats what i run in the race car. Not to mention you dont have to have special tools to work with it. FRM takes a very specific process and the mahles have their own set of requirements which a lot of machinist simply are not set up for.

10k for a whole build isnt bad. What measurement tools are you using? Factory clearances? What rpm do you plan on spinning this motor?

These are the questions id be asking myself before ordering any parts.
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:01 AM   #55
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I'm fairly certain the FRM will be a non-issue for my machinist, this shop does a lot of H22s. What measuring tools are there aside from the usual micrometer, feeler, etc? I figured factory clearances would be enough, unless any of the aftermarket parts come with specific instructions (which, by the way, I'm still wondering which Helm I should get for my 97 closed deck, 4th or 5th gen Lude?). I'll leave timing and valve lash kinds of things up to the tuner so it's all working together as it should to make reliable power, as well as the redline. I'm just wanting good mid-range and maybe low-end power to use at circuit and autocross tracks. Now that I have a second car, the Accord doesn't need to be a daily, but I'll still put some serious miles on it.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:36 AM   #56
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There's no such thing as a usual micrometer. You need an assortment of sizes to ensure accuracy with any range of sizes of parts to measure. You also will need dial bore indicators and runout gauges if you're going to be doing the bottom end yourself.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:02 AM   #57
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You can do it without those tools, just don't expect the motor to run good or run long.
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:30 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
I'm fairly certain the FRM will be a non-issue for my machinist, this shop does a lot of H22s. What measuring tools are there aside from the usual micrometer, feeler, etc? I figured factory clearances would be enough, unless any of the aftermarket parts come with specific instructions (which, by the way, I'm still wondering which Helm I should get for my 97 closed deck, 4th or 5th gen Lude?). I'll leave timing and valve lash kinds of things up to the tuner so it's all working together as it should to make reliable power, as well as the redline. I'm just wanting good mid-range and maybe low-end power to use at circuit and autocross tracks. Now that I have a second car, the Accord doesn't need to be a daily, but I'll still put some serious miles on it.
This is were engine building experience is different from engine assembly experience. Building an engine with aftermarket parts is a bit different than doing an OEM rebuild which is going to get driven like it was stock and a rev limiter like stock. If you plan on revving farther than stock, the clearances need to be adjusted (bigger oil clearance). RPM is all about heat; the faster the engine spins, the more heat it creates. This heat causes even greater expansion in the metals so you can to compensate for that.

You can set clearances as the engine really needs them with ACL bearings and plastigage but its a painstaking process and not completely accurate. But then again a micrometer and bore gauge in the wrong hands can be considerably inaccurate so it can be a double edged sword.
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:53 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PR CB7 View Post
230whp is achievable

so far experience i've gained from builds is
to get 240whp, 11.5 mahle slugs, skunk pro2, gears, skunk mani +70mm tb and kidd racing header

and to get 280whp,darton m.i.d, 13.1 JE k24 pistons,f22 bottom skunk mani, 70mmtb, skunk pro3, gears, ferrea, kidd racing header

so with some mahle's and pro2 you should be pretty good, although the only downfall i saw on using skunk cams is forget about your low-end, these cams really shine @vtec, a type s cam will show better numbers on low-cam
⅔80? Lol might be a bit much.
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:43 PM   #60
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230whp is achievable

so with some mahle's and pro2 you should be pretty good, although the only downfall i saw on using skunk cams is forget about your low-end, these cams really shine @vtec, a type s cam will show better numbers on low-cam
If this is true in the cases you have seen, those cams were not setup properly or had supporting mods which didnt do enough.
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