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Old 10-06-2017, 03:16 PM   #1
Nine-Dee 2.2
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Question When adjusting FITV... Temp question

This morning was particularly cold, my girlfriend went to go start her car for work, and it hunted pretty badly it seemed. I adjusted the FITV previously after cleaning it a month or so ago.


The question is, is it a better idea to adjust the FITV when the ambient/outdoor temperature is at its coldest? Say, winter, or night-time in fall/spring? (To me it would make sense considering it's for cold starts (?)

I'm asking because I adjusted it in the summer, I'm assuming that's where I went wrong. I did it with a cold engine (if I can remember right) while it hunted and tightened it down till it stopped hunting, it wasn't super tight but nice and snug. The ambient temperature was likely in mid to high sixties ( I did it early in the morning.)

Advice appreciated, I've cleaned the IACV as well too.
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:09 PM   #2
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Today is the first time doing it and has it happened again since? I don't know much about the FITV, but that would seem to make sense based on what i do know.
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB7_Saloon View Post
Today is the first time doing it and has it happened again since? I don't know much about the FITV, but that would seem to make sense based on what i do know.

Sometimes it will happen after she puts it into Park after driving, but evens out after the 2nd rev.

This is the first actual "cold" start the engine has had since last season, it was pretty damn cold this morning. I will have to notice tomorrow morning too. Going to have to notice because I need to adjust it lol.
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:37 PM   #4
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Also, I'd double check the IACV since you mentioned cleaning it.
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Old 10-07-2017, 10:10 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by CB7_Saloon View Post
Also, I'd double check the IACV since you mentioned cleaning it.
After it's bath I tested it with a couple wires and a battery, seems to be working fine.

It started up with no issue this morning, but yesterday was much colder than today. Unless it gives me more problems I think I'll just suffer through the annoying hunt. I need to flush/refill my cooling system since winter is coming, maybe I'll check for air in the system. I read on here that it might cause a weird idle.

I wanna get this fixed before it start's getting -15F and the car won't start in the morning
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Old 10-08-2017, 01:00 PM   #6
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What RPM does it run at right now during a cold-start? From the reading I have done, if it is hunting you probably have an air leak or air in the coolant circuit still.

I have replaced the FITV 'piston' O-ring and it was better but still hunts sometimes. If I tighten it down and lower the high idle RPM below where I want it, it will quit hunting as suggested as a temp fix. I will be going back in to do the remaining O-rings.
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ghostwhite View Post
What RPM does it run at right now during a cold-start? From the reading I have done, if it is hunting you probably have an air leak or air in the coolant circuit still.

I have replaced the FITV 'piston' O-ring and it was better but still hunts sometimes. If I tighten it down and lower the high idle RPM below where I want it, it will quit hunting as suggested as a temp fix. I will be going back in to do the remaining O-rings.
Funnily, immediately after they key is turned it shoots up to 1800-2000, then drops down between 1k and 1.4k until it warms up and base idle in park seems to be 900-1k, and in drive it sits about 800-850. I've followed the procedure for setting base idle, probably need to do it again.

The FITV was in decent shape when I cleaned it, no signs of worn rubber or anything, it was actually spectacularly clean before I took it off. I've also gone over the entire vacuum system. (Intake mani needs cleaned soon! )

In a couple days I'm going to be flushing/refilling my coolant, levels right now are fine and I've already bled the air out of it.

I forgot to mention sometimes when the engine is warm and you go from D4/3 to P it hunts either once or twice before it settles down, it's not violent, jus annoying.

Last edited by Nine-Dee 2.2; 10-08-2017 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:41 PM   #8
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With a properly operating FITV, you should never have to adjust it after setting it the first time. It automatically adjusts for initial temperature of the coolant (which after a long cooling off time will be the same as ambient). Winding it all the way down may stop the hunting, but it effectively disables the valve from what it is supposed to do. Install a new o-ring on the piston.

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Old 10-08-2017, 06:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine-Dee 2.2 View Post
Funnily, immediately after they key is turned it shoots up to 1800-2000, then drops down between 1k and 1.4k until it warms up and base idle in park seems to be 900-1k, and in drive it sits about 800-850. I've followed the procedure for setting base idle, probably need to do it again.

The FITV was in decent shape when I cleaned it, no signs of worn rubber or anything, it was actually spectacularly clean before I took it off. I've also gone over the entire vacuum system. (Intake mani needs cleaned soon! )

In a couple days I'm going to be flushing/refilling my coolant, levels right now are fine and I've already bled the air out of it.

I forgot to mention sometimes when the engine is warm and you go from D4/3 to P it hunts either once or twice before it settles down, it's not violent, jus annoying.
Where the idle settles right away is based on the FITV depth and just like fleetwood said if you screw it all the way down you will lock out its operation. I have mine set between 1700-1800 based on the manual.
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Old 10-08-2017, 07:21 PM   #10
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Where the idle settles right away is based on the FITV depth and just like fleetwood said if you screw it all the way down you will lock out its operation. I have mine set between 1700-1800 based on the manual.
Interesting... this is new info. Well the good thing I can say is I actually marked the original setting before tightening it. I'll set it to default as best I can, might be a turn or so off but we will see.

Tomorrow morning I will test it all out if it's nice and cold.

I'm assuming I need to reset base idle afterwards, correct?

Last edited by Nine-Dee 2.2; 10-08-2017 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine-Dee 2.2 View Post
Interesting... this is new info. Well the good thing I can say is I actually marked the original setting before tightening it. I'll set it to default as best I can, might be a turn or so off but we will see.

Tomorrow morning I will test it all out if it's nice and cold.

I'm assuming I need to reset base idle afterwards, correct?
With the FITV working correctly, you set the base idle with the engine fully warmed up; the FITV should be fully closed at that point.
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Old 10-08-2017, 10:31 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
With the FITV working correctly, you set the base idle with the engine fully warmed up; the FITV should be fully closed at that point.
Makes perfect sense. When I change my coolant I'm going to be adjusting the FITV. It doesn't necessarily cause a problem in day to day driving, just starting it up when its cold. Good thing the lows here will be a little warmer for the next week.


Edit: The reason I adjusted the FITV in the first place is because the PO deleted the butterfly valve in the intake resonator and didn't fix the vacuum leak. There was a hose running from the mani but never connected to anything. I did not know this before adjusting it. It hunted not often before, but enough for me to want to fix it. Seemed to do the trick lmao. But I've fixed the leak now.

Last edited by Nine-Dee 2.2; 10-08-2017 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 10-12-2017, 04:33 PM   #13
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Today I adjusted my FITV before I flushed and refilled my cooling system. The coolant reservoir was empty. The radiator seemed 3/4 full. Before summer it was full, we had a really hot summer [105F] this year and the car was driven somewhat aggressively throughout the season. (Evaporating from pure engine heat?)

Any how the car seems to be running just fine. I do however need to do a tune-up before winter if I can. I need almost the whole 9 but the main issue is my distributor, I won't go into details.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:31 AM   #14
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Your coolant isn't evaporating. IF it was leaving just from engine heat, you would have noticed severe overheating quite frequently followed by coolant puking past the cap and out of the reservoir.

It would be a good idea to search for leaks in the system.
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:17 AM   #15
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I know the headgasket was replaced about 15k ago... Not sure where else it would leak. I gave it a small once over and tightened the clamp for the hose on the thermo. I need to check the brass fitting and tube coming out of the bottom of the radiator (not sure what that is), there is visible residue on the frame benath but it doesn't look new by any means, like it happened once and it was never cleaned. The car never overheated this summer and the temperature gauge always read normal. The oil is clean as well so that points to an external leak. I'll give it a closer look if I can get a warm day.
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:45 AM   #16
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Top it off and monitor it closely.

I had a radiator leak near the top corner on a ford truck that would leak until about half full. Once it got about half it still had enough fluid to cool the engine but not enough to reach the hole during circulation. It would only appear to be leaking until it got the the sweet spot around halfway.
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:54 PM   #17
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Top it off and monitor it closely.

I had a radiator leak near the top corner on a ford truck that would leak until about half full. Once it got about half it still had enough fluid to cool the engine but not enough to reach the hole during circulation. It would only appear to be leaking until it got the the sweet spot around halfway.
I need to inspect the radiator for sure, it has the original OEM one, and after 228k I'm sure it could use a new one. Looking at metal rads and a new dual-fan setup since my car only has one (?) But thats for springtime. As far as I remember cold weather is akin to having a car that has a cooling issue, so I hope it'll survive.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:29 PM   #18
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If you're lucky you'll keep enough coolant in the system for the heater to work good!

Have you ever used a coolant system cleaner? I use it on higher mileage cars I have acquired. It would be a good time to dump some in with some distilled water as you will need to drain the system once the cleaner does its thing. No sense adding coolant then dumping it out after the clean cycle.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:39 PM   #19
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The heater has always worked well. It will definitely cook you out, especially in the summer. (No AC)

And no, I've flushed and refilled. Any good brands? I've used sealer in the past with OK results. In the past I've always ran water until the flush was perfectly clear to clean my system.
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Old 10-14-2017, 01:12 AM   #20
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I just use the prestone cleaner, I never use a sealer as its just a bandaid and could cause other issues.

I run the cleaner for a few days then start 'flushing' with distilled till its clean. I don't use a machine, just top off-run-drain repeat till its clean. Obviously can't do this in low outside air temp areas.
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