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Stopping problems - Master Cylinder or Booster?

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    Stopping problems - Master Cylinder or Booster?

    hey all,
    i've been driving my 1992 EX for about two years now, minimal problems so far... replaced a CV shaft about six months ago and that's it. until now...

    about a month ago, i started to notice that the brakes would run out of pressure if i was slow to apply braking... so, in other words, if i slowly stopped, i ran out of braking power, whereas if i hit hard, it would stop in a jiffy. local mechanic said it was the master cylinder causing problems, so i went about replacing that. got the sucker in, bled the brakes once, with a ton of air being removed from the front left valve... and driving it, the pedal is very soft once the engine is started... of course, with the engine off, there is a ton of stiffness to the pedal. i havent bled the brakes yet a second time because i dont want to waste time on that if i dont have to. yep, i'm lazy.

    so, any opinions on whether i should go to the work of bleeding again, or should i just take it into my local honda dealer? (great bunch of people, but i'm poor right now)

    #2
    Sounds like the Master Cylinder to me. You probably didn't bench bleed it properly and that's why you are experiancing some problems. You need to properly bleed the system.
    My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

    Comment


      #3
      yes, you're probably right... my dad, whose technical ability in the automotive field i am beginning to question, decided we didnt need to bench bleed >_< i love how it says in the instructions that you MUST do this and if you dont the warranty is VOID......

      so i'll get around to that some time this evening.

      thanks for pointing that out!

      Comment


        #4
        well, we bench bled the cylinder, reinstalled it, and re-bled the brakes...

        no dice.

        so, now we're down to another two component battle: is the rod for the master cylinder too short... or is my booster shot?

        either way it looks like im heading for a mechanic's shop some time soon.

        Comment


          #5
          If your vacuum booster is bad, your brakes will get rock hard and the it will be hard to stop the car. I replaced mine last summer and it was a real pain.

          You have to disengage the brake pedal from the booster plunger that comes thru the firewall (easy). Remove the master cylinder (easy). Take off the 4 bolts that hold the booster to the firewall from inside the car- you have to be a contortionist to get them out and feel around for 2 of them (medium). Since the placement of the booster on the firewall is not 'easy access' to get it out, there's a handfull of small things that you'll have to take off in the engine area, and remove the hood too to give you room to work (easy). To get the booster out of the engine area, you have to pull a Harry Potter and use magic. It is a major pain in the ass, as you'll be fighting against the intake manifold, top of the firewall where it comes back out, and the fenderwell. It took two people to get it out on my car, one with vice-grips on the end of the plunger of the booster that goes into the master cylinder, and pulling back hard to make sure the other end of the plunger (the part that goes thru to the pedal) is retracted enough into the booster to clear the firewall opening. Once its thru the firewall its pretty easy to get the rest of the way out. While its out, you may as well put a new gasket on the booster where it attaches to the firewall.

          The booster is big and clunky. Be sure not to bend the firewall at the opening while installing or removing the booster or you will end up with a vacuum leak like I have. No amount of gaskets will solve this problem.

          Installation is the reverse of the removal. Start early enough in the day in case you get stuck or frustrated. If you do get pissed at it, take a 20 minute break to clear your head. After replacing the booster, take the old booster and throw it around and beat the hell out of it with a ballbat. Doing so serves no purpose other than making you feel better about changing out a pain-in-the-ass part.

          Most auto part stores and the Honda dealer will want about the same for the part (around $200). Go get one at a salvage yard. Get some practice on a wrecked car, so you know what to take off and apart, and if you damage the salvage yard car it won't matter.

          If I left anything out, please feel free to add it.
          Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White

          1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
          2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
          2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
          2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]

          Comment


            #6
            Master cylinder. Don't forget to bleed it.

            <--- forgot to bleed

            Comment


              #7
              I think I'm having the same problem... When I'm at a complete stop with my foot on the brake, it will slowly sink down top the floor. When I come up and reapply, it's stiff again for a bit... Then it sinks. Master cylinder there too?

              Man, I HATE working on components that involve fluids...






              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by deevergote
                I think I'm having the same problem... When I'm at a complete stop with my foot on the brake, it will slowly sink down top the floor. When I come up and reapply, it's stiff again for a bit... Then it sinks. Master cylinder there too?

                Man, I HATE working on components that involve fluids...
                Master cylinder strikes again!!

                Just worn down internal seals, so replace the master cylinder and properly bleed the system. The end

                Comment


                  #9
                  Damn... I'll probably do the clutch master cylinder as well (cpmike drove my car and said that was kinda going too...) I checked ebay, and it looks like each one goes for $50-$65... is that a good price, or should I be looking for better quality?






                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was quoted $75 for a brand new brake master cylinder by a suspension parts store out here in LA. Are the ones off of eBay used?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The one I saw was brand new... Could be a cheap brand though. I learned that not all inexpensive "OEM" replacement parts are made equal... my power window regulator reminds me of that every day as I assist it in dropping the window...






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