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Old 02-11-2010, 12:00 AM   #101
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im Glad Someone Is Helping Lol. Well My Pads Im Going To Get At Auto Zone They Are 60 Bucks Each Set. They Are The New Duralast C-max Pads. I Really Want To Do The Nsx Calipers But I Think I Need 99 Cl Rotors And Hubs. Im Trying To Find Out If This Is Right Would You Know?
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Old 03-06-2010, 01:48 PM   #102
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Are the '90-'93 Wagon Calipers the same as the '95-'97 Wagon?

I know that the rotors are the same, but I am not so sure on the calipers.
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Old 03-06-2010, 03:56 PM   #103
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yes the calipers are the same, for some random reason the 97 accord se has them on them to.
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:48 AM   #104
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Bump!

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bump!
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:08 PM   #105
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Sweet stuff.
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My Build Thread. Many pics.

Last edited by HondaBob; 06-01-2010 at 08:14 PM. Reason: Further reading always answers questions.
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:21 PM   #106
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Thank you cb7 community for all nthe great info.

Not til pages 4 and 5, has any1 asked about abs setups on 9293.


I have a 1993 ex with abs, looking to do simple roh with cl hubs rotors, with lifetime warrenty pads.

Now only but 1 person had a prob with abs.. That's were it scares me, but glory has 5lug..

Im keepin 4 lug, I don't want to run into any probs with my abs light comin in afterwards.
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:50 PM   #107
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Do not worry about your ABS situation. Everything is run off of the axle, and has nothing to do with the calipers/rotors/hubs.
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:49 PM   #108
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Ok thanks.
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Old 07-03-2010, 09:38 PM   #109
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bump for info, reread thread, also went to the yard.


i came across a ka4 legend, on here says legend calipers will work.

so, the brake idea im thinkin of doing is

cl hub, ka4 calipers, ka4 bracket, vtec rotor, im asking because i seen that the legend brakes were roh and just made me think.
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Old 07-03-2010, 10:17 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F20A CB7 View Post
bump for info, reread thread, also went to the yard.


i came across a ka4 legend, on here says legend calipers will work.

so, the brake idea im thinkin of doing is

cl hub, ka4 calipers, ka4 bracket, vtec rotor, im asking because i seen that the legend brakes were roh and just made me think.
Better move the bleeder valve or bleed the calipers while they arent mounted to the car.
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Old 07-04-2010, 01:09 AM   #111
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What? Why, wat I listed can I use it?

Cl hub, ka4 bracket, capiler, rotor
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Old 07-04-2010, 02:09 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F20A CB7 View Post
What? Why, wat I listed can I use it?

Cl hub, ka4 bracket, capiler, rotor
Im not sure about if all the parts will fit together but

Legend calipers are tailing edge. meaning they sit twords the rear of the wheel well. The bleeder valve for a caliper is ALWAYS on the top. If you put the legend calipers on your car properly then you cant bleed them. So you either need to bleed them while they are off of the car ( By sticking a block of wood in the caliper and facing the bleeder up ) or flipping the sides ( which for some reason is not reccomended.
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:27 PM   #113
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Something else to add to this thread:

Whether you have ABS or not, the non-abs brake master cylinder is smaller in diameter. Pressure = Force/Area, which means that a smaller master cylinder area with a constant applied pedal force will result in higher line pressures. Higher line pressures result in higher clamping forces.

Smaller non-abs master cylinder

Pros: More line pressure, more clamping force at the caliper
Cons: More dangerous for brake lines, more pedal modulation(pedal travel)

ABS master cylinder

Pros: Less pedal modulation, safer line pressures
Cons: Less clamping force at the caliper if applied pedal force is held constant.


Now you can see that if you translate this to the other end of the brake system; the caliper: Force = Pressure*Area

So a larger line pressure and larger piston surface area will result in higher braking forces.


For this reason, you want the largest piston calipers and smallest diameter master cylinder possible AS LONG AS your lines and fittings can handle the pressures.

If you were to try to make the ideal system using OEM parts, a non-abs master cylinder with the prelude vtec calipers would be best. The master cylinder is the smallest that bolts up, and the calipers have the most piston surface area, unless the Legend/Vigor ones are even larger...that I'm not sure about.
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Old 07-05-2010, 10:27 AM   #114
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Shit. For now I think ill just stick with just the basic cl hubs rotor and pads, cb oem calipers.

Thanks.
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:26 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F20A CB7 View Post
Shit. For now I think ill just stick with just the basic cl hubs rotor and pads, cb oem calipers.

Thanks.
Just get wagon rotors. It will be the same size rotor just a different caliper.
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:43 AM   #116
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Aren't wagon rotors, hor, im tryin 2 do roh.

I went to the yard, I did find wagon calipers and bracets, also thought of doin the vigor swap, still hor.

I want rotor, for 2 reasons.

1 easier 2 change/swap/update rotors from blanks to drilled etc...

2 I can always update to 11.1 rotors and vtec calipers.

To me its like killin two birds with 1 stone.

Update from hor, to roh, then always can update down the line to bigger setup.
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Old 07-06-2010, 12:57 PM   #117
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No sense in upgrading to ROH and not just upgrading the brakes at the same time. Your not going to spend much more money on bigger rotors but if your buying 10 inch rotors and then upgrading to 11 inch your going to spend twice as much.

Regardless get the wagon calipers and buy prelude vtec rotors
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Old 07-06-2010, 01:39 PM   #118
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I see what you are saying, just buy the bigger rotors and shit now, rather than buyin 10in then upgrading.

So mr tipper, ill shall acquire the following.

Cl hubs
Wagon brackets
Wagon calipers
Vtec rotors

And pads.



Its acutally cheaper to buy either cross drilled/ slotted or both on ebay, I no ebay parts blah blah, but I won't b auto crossin her.
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:14 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F20A CB7 View Post
I see what you are saying, just buy the bigger rotors and shit now, rather than buyin 10in then upgrading.

So mr tipper, ill shall acquire the following.

Cl hubs
Wagon brackets
Wagon calipers
Vtec rotors

And pads.



Its acutally cheaper to buy either cross drilled/ slotted or both on ebay, I no ebay parts blah blah, but I won't b auto crossin her.


That is correct. Auto-cross or not, cheap rotors can warp easily...even from just hard stops. I have this exact setup. CL hubs, OEM bearings, wagon calipers, brackets, and prelude vtec/wagon rotors...and the rotors are the no-name TAS rotors and I suspect that they are slightly warped. I haven't autocrossed the car, but I have driven it hard and overheated the brakes a few times(pads were smoking). So I would get a quality rotor regardless...especially if you're H-swapped or something of the sort.

Also, don't get cross drilled. Get blank or slotted. The pads will overheat before the rotors, so unless you start smoking pads, you don't need a slotted rotor even.
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:53 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F20A CB7 View Post
I see what you are saying, just buy the bigger rotors and shit now, rather than buyin 10in then upgrading.

So mr tipper, ill shall acquire the following.

Cl hubs
Wagon brackets
Wagon calipers
Vtec rotors

And pads.



Its acutally cheaper to buy either cross drilled/ slotted or both on ebay, I no ebay parts blah blah, but I won't b auto crossin her.

make sure your caliper bracket number and brake rotor thickness are the same number, example 25t wagon brackets need 25mm thick rotors and 23t would need 23mm thick rotors

if you do not match these numbers you will have either sponginess or stiff pedal effort

my coupe has pretty much the same setup as yours but 93 wagon rotor cause i am still HOR
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