How do I go about fixing the outer driver side tie rod? Is there a DIY? Please any help would be greatly appreciated. Total novice here. If there's no DIY could someone please explain the process more or less step by step? God I need to get this fixed, to get back to work. Hoping someone can help a young family get their daily driver back on the road.
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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Drivers Side Outer Tie Rod Help PLEASE
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Originally posted by 90LXCB7Newbie View Postif u got a spare twenty bucks theres a diy book,
called hayens manual, great buy even for a novice...
or u can search this site, using the search button,
theres a lot of info to help u on what u need(to get spoon fed)
happy tuning
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The outer tie-rod end is pretty easy. You remove the cotter pin, remove the castle nut and use a rubber hammer to tap the ball joint out where it's seated. You might need a ball joint fork to force it out. Once it's out, unscrew it from the tie-rod and reverse the process minus the excessive beating with a rubber hammer.
Since different companies build their parts different, it's probably near impossible to have the exact same threading, but you could try wrapping a piece of tap tightly and accurately around the tie-rod right where the tie-rod end was fastened on the tie-rod before unscrewing the tie-rod end and count how many full turns it took to unscrew the old tie-rod end so that when you screw the new one on you can count the turns to get it back on and if the number of turns to get it back on puts it near where that tape is, your alignment shouldn't be too far off.
Right after you change it, go up and get a free alignment check from a Sears or Tires Plus.. or anywhere that does them free. If it's out of alignment, you can pay them to align it or you can try to correct it at home by loosening or tightetning the tie-rod end on the tie-rod. If you do it yourself, go get another free alignment check when you're done and make sure it's within spec. Doing this yourself will save you about $60-100 on an alignment unless you already needed one before you changed the tie-rod end, then it's worth paying for.
-mak
Bought From: MadSpleen85, jimy, CB7_ACCORD (kouzie), Chrisfrom1986
Sold To: vinbon63, chessboxer, darkfusion42, LowNknoxville, bowzil, 1993hAccord, mcdizzle, 93accordfreak, lilb_1979, rocketman_471, Bad_dude
Traded With: cb95spd, chessboxer, sohc em
[ Completed | Pending ]
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostTake 3 days off. If you're not going to actually help someone, don't bother posting.
its all good, i c how it is, r u on a power tripp or sum'n??
i was helping him out, that manual is important for basic tuning and repairs,
u know just as well as i do that ppl blow this site up with a simple diy
when the haynes manual can help more than sum of us here on the site that give false or misleading info n e ways...
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Power trip? No. Just running my forum the way I specified in the rules... You don't seem to care about the rules of this forum, so honestly... we don't need you around. Additionally, making a second name to bypass a ban results in a permanent ban.
3 days just turned into permanent. Thanks for playing.
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deevergote-
Thanks for being so honest and "having my back". Lot of pricks out there. Most don't understand people have situations and need a helping hand from time to time.
Mak-
Well I just got the tie rod in from the parts store so hopefully maybe tomorrow I'll get the chance to give it a try and see how it goes. I really appreciate EVERYTHING man, you guys here at CB7 Tuner are the best. I wish there was some way to return the favors and help.
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Just learn as much as possible, and then you can be the one to lend a hand when someone else needs help The best way for ANYONE to contribute to this site is to bring real knowledge and experience.
As for being a jerk... many people are... I am myself very often. However, I at least demand that some useful information be given in the process. If you're going to be a jerk to someone, AT LEAST offer some help as well! ("get a manual" is not help... linking to the online manuals provided would at least be SOME help!)
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Well I got everything pretty much off, except when it came to unscrewing the tie rod off, it won't come off. Is there something I'm missing? I also wd-40'd the hell out of it lol Still nothing. Someone was trying to tell me to loosen the nut on the end the whole way till it comes loose, then screw it back down/on to unscrew the tie rod? Doesn't make sense to me...help? Thanks guys for everything thus far. Hopefully by tomorrow she'll be back up on her feet and rolling again
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Just a question:
I assume your replacing your tie rod because the ball joint on it is worn out.
Wouldnt it be easier and cheaper just to replace the actual joint only?
That way you don't need to remover the whole tie rod.Rides:
Accord
92-JDM-2.0 Si- "4ws" - Cobalt Blue Pearl
96-AUDM-2.2 VTiS- Heather Mist
CR-X
88-JDM-Si- Black
CR-X Del Sol
92-JDM-SiR "Transtop" Motegi Edition - Silver
95-JDM-SiR "Transtop" Daytona Edition - Silver
92-JDM-SiR "Transtop" - Black
Prelude
91-JDM-Si-4ws "Si States" - Phoenix Red
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita Lux Edition" - Bordeaux Red Pearl
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita" - Cobalt Blue Pearl
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita Lux Edition"- Gun Metal Grey
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I haven't tried to change the tie rod but I have considered it when I was removing my CV axles (to change the boot).
I don't know if im miss read your question but looking back I was just going to remove the joint not the whole metal piece (tie rod).
Unless the actual ball joint cannot be detatched I can't see why you will need to remove the whole tie rod?Rides:
Accord
92-JDM-2.0 Si- "4ws" - Cobalt Blue Pearl
96-AUDM-2.2 VTiS- Heather Mist
CR-X
88-JDM-Si- Black
CR-X Del Sol
92-JDM-SiR "Transtop" Motegi Edition - Silver
95-JDM-SiR "Transtop" Daytona Edition - Silver
92-JDM-SiR "Transtop" - Black
Prelude
91-JDM-Si-4ws "Si States" - Phoenix Red
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita Lux Edition" - Bordeaux Red Pearl
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita" - Cobalt Blue Pearl
91-AUDM-Si-4ws "Cita Lux Edition"- Gun Metal Grey
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I've done the tie rods on my civic its fairly easy... one thing i highly recommend is counting how many times you un-thread the old outer tie rod and thread the new one on the same amount of times.. if you did this and your using good parts (like moog or oem and not ebay crap) 99% chance it wont effect your alignment... however if you haven't recently had an alignment i recommend getting one
its a fairly easy job to do just make sure to soak the shit out of them with pb blaster before you even think about trying to unbolt them!
and you will love how the car drives after the new tie rods! it will feel alot more responsive in the steering !Blake.
1994 Accord Part out!
Me and my step dad's 1991 Accord EX Coupe MRT
82 accord-rip, 94 geo-sold, 82 cavilier-rip,81 civic-rip,88 accord- rip, 88 legend- rip, 91 civic- sold,97 geo-sold, 92 accord- sold 94 accord- RIP, 1990 Camry- RIP
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